The purpose of this research is to study the cause of obstruction in various knit pattern structures by understanding the needs of the customers, and to develop knitted fabric goods that satisfy the individual taste of consumers and that reflecting the latest fashions. Actual conditions of the manufacturer's designing processes must be examined. In addition, a comparison analysis of fashion sensibilities and preferences between producers and consumers had been made in order to study developing knit pattern structures. Questionnaires and interviews had been used as research methods. The research involved two groups: one group consisted of 57 producers, which included designers, programmers, and merchandisers working for a knit manufacturer in Seoul, while the other group consisted of 74 consumers, which included students with knitted fabric design as their major and those who have working knowledge of knitted fabrics. For a more accurate evaluation, 28 out of 150 patterns have been selected through a preliminary study conducted by 24 designers. On the 28 knit patterns, a sensibility evaluation had been made through the use of the sense of sight and sense of touch, which was followed by a frequency analysis, cluster analysis, and t-test using SPSS 12.0. The results are as follows: the fashion sensibility evaluation on knit patterns showed that structures, such as racking II or lace II, are typically elegant ('elegance'), while structures, such as links I or racking I, are typically 'active.' Furthermore, a 'country' image was displayed in structures such as cable I, cable II, and miss II. Links I appeared as 'sophisticated'. Miss I and milano were said to have 'modem' images. Lace II was regarded as 'ethnic', while racking II was said to have a 'romantic' image. 2:1 rib and milano were generally thought to be manly ('manish'). The fashion sensibility scale for each knit pattern has been made based on the above results. Based on producer and consumer responses, the sensibility evaluation on knit pattern structures showed that the two groups had similar preferences in knit pattern structures. Therefore, the fashion sensibility scale developed in this study can be used as a basic data for structure development when designing knitted fabric goods.

Today, each country's cultural communications are carried briskly and Japan already showed a new trend of world fashion by accepting its own design with aesthetic sense to western Europe in 1970s and built the new area of Japanese fashion. This special traditional aesthetic sense, formed by social, cultural, geographic and religious conditions, is roughly divided into decorated and undecorated beauty; decorated one means splendidness, coquetry, exaggeration and was represented ornamental modification of nature object in dress pattern as ornamental expression means; undecorated one, based on Zen-thought, means simplicity, purity, ugliness and Japan gave rise to the new beauty by receiving and adapting continental culture to its culture openly and creating and developing its own beauty. This study aims to examine the aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional dress and understand how traditional beauty is used and applied to modern fashion and analyze the diversity of Japanese traditional aesthetic sense shown in modern fashion. For material analysis, total 220 were collected of photograph related to formative element existence according to aesthetic sense shown in Japanese traditional fashion design using literature research and visual data. The existences of Japanese image among them were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors so that 7 pieces of which were selected as final analysis object. Likewise, the result suggests that Japanese traditional aesthetic sense creates global design based on folk element-used identity as well as new beauty by adapting continental culture to its culture openly and producing and developing its own creative beauty.

This article aims to identify the current status of outsourced production of Dongdaemun brands and to discover the consumers' perception of those outsourced products, their degree of satisfaction, and preference in purchasing those products. Moreover, the strengths and weaknesses of the outsourced products, as perceived by the consmers, have been identified, and specific methods and directions for efficient overseas outsourcing of Dongdaemun brands are suggested. This study also contains experimental works, in which I have prepared questionnaires, and my advisor have collected data. This survey was conducted on corporation managers, who directly operated clothing stores in Dongdaemun Market in December 2007. The collected data have been analyzed using SPSS 12.0 with various techniques such as t-test, paired t-test, frequency analysis and $X^2$-test. The results are summarized as the following: a) Comparison of the current outsourcing status of Dongdaemun brands showed that only eight out of the total 42 investigated companies have actually been outsourcing the production of their clothes. The biggest advantage of outsourcing was the reduced unit production cost, while low quality of products, delayed production, difficulty of control and management were shown as its disadvantages; b) the reason for purchasing clothes in Dongdaemun Market was to buy various clothing products. Comparing these reasons among different groups showed that there was a significant discrepancy in terms of trend design and copy design, in which wholesale consumers had shown a higher degree than retail consumers; c) and the preference for outsourced products of Dongdaemun brands was negative in both wholesale consumers (71.05%) and retail consumers (83.54%), as they both prefer clothes manufactured in Korea. Both groups selected the expensive price as the biggest disadvantage of Korean products, and picked design as the biggest strength of the outsourced clothes. Furthennore, both wholesale consumers (63.16%) and retail consumers (74.68%) selected Italy as the most preferred country for outsourcing clothing production. in which their reason had been their expectation for good product quality. The least preferred country for both wholesale (47.37%) and retail (50.63%) consumers was China, a country which they expected poor product quality.

The purposes of this article are segmenting consumers by brand attachment motives and discovering the differences among the segmented groups in relation to clothing involvement and clothing behavior (ready-to-wear satisfaction, brand loyalty, purchased items, and purchased places). The subjects of this study were male and female consumers, who were residents in Seoul, Korea. The data had been collected during May, 2007, and statistical analyses used for the study were factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, and chi-square test. The results showed that brand attachment motive is composed of two factors: brand personality/individuality expression and conformity/status improvement. Based on cluster analysis, there were two brand attachment motive groups: individuality expression and status improvement segments. T-test showed that brand attachment motive segments were significantly different in terms of clothing involvement and clothing behavior (ready-to-wear satisfaction, brand loyalty and purchased items). For example, the individuality expression group was more interested in clothing, was more satisfied with ready-to-wear clothing, had higher brand loyalty, and usually purchased casual wear. Meanwhile, the status improvement group had a higher perceived risk in clothing involvement, was less satisfied with ready-to-wear clothing, had a lower degree of brand loyalty, and preferred to purchase formal wear. The results implied that brand attachment motive is an important variable in market segmentation, in which specific marketing strategies should be implemented for each targeted consumers.

The recent trend of Sports Wear is seeking functionality and fashion at the same time, where the spread of sportism becomes caual style leading street fashion. Sports Wear is classified into active Sports Wear and Sports casual Wear, in which active Sports Wear is expanded to a mixture with Sports casual wear. The purpose of this study is to research the trend of materials used in active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear. Materials used for jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts of active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear, and high-tech functional materials used for active Sports Wear have been analyzed. The results of the study are the following: a) Most of the materials used for Sports Wear are polyester, nylon, cotton, and a mixture of cotton and polyester. Active Sports Wear uses functional materials and texture such as Dri-Fit, which absorbs and dries fast, whereas Sports casual wear satin, cire and denim has been used to keep up with the trend rather than focusing in functionality: b) companies such as Nike and Adidas have used many high-tech materials to emphasize the functionality of Sports Wear, while Puma stresses on fashion rather than function, however uses spandex in order for the consumer to feel comfortable during physical activities; c) active Sports Wear in jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts uses functional material and texture, however Sports casual wear uses satin and cire to keep up with the fashion trend rather than functionality; d) and Nike uses high-tech funtional materials for its Sports Wear in therma-fit, Clima-fit, Dri-fit and storm-fit, whereas Adidas uses Clirna-lite, Clirna-proof, Clima-warm, and Clirna-cool in their active Sports Wear.

Knit wear with comfortable feeling of wearing and various coordinations gives new values to the modern people, who seek activities and individualities, and the demand for knit wear is on the rise. This article aims to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean knit fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in Korea from 2005 to 2007 had been analyzed. The knitting techniques, and designing characteristics and aesthetic values of Korean knit fashion had been studied. The major conclusions of the study are the following: 1. Korean knit fashion applies various knitting techniques. The knitting techniques used in Korean knit fashion are hand-knitting technique, crochet techniques, lace techniques, plain stitch, rib stitch, and purl stitch technique. 2. Decorations by trimming and matching with different textile materials are used more frequently than decorations by knit material itself. Decorating methods include fringes, spangle, beads, Rhine stone, motif and embroidery decorating. Matching with different textile materials made contrasting decoration effect. 3. Patterms by knitting structure and by arranging colors are applied. Cubic effect by knitting structure patterns, and geometric patterns by arranging colors are emphasized. 4. The formative feature beauties are natural beauty, feminine beauty, and decorative beauty. Korean knit fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various knitting techniques and decorating techniques. As individual activities may be increased in the future, the designs and applications of knit fashion may be diversified.

The media culture influences upon young people while introducing new cultures by every hour. Considering the mainstream culture, in which media has the greatest effect on young people, this article examines the symbolic significances of youth fashion through media culture. The results of this study can be summarized as the following: First, young people's popular culture ("pop culture") is becoming the medium that leads to the creation of similar cultures of the young people globally through various routes. Culture is being created by integration of diverse media, and not by what is seen through a single medium. Typical young people's culture, which is formed due to the influence of media culture, includes community culture, pun culture, virtual culture and fandom culture. Second, in order to examine youth fashion that is seen in those media, the survey has been conducted on media stars, tecktonik dance groups, fashion models, avatars and online communities, which are fashion icons influencing young people. Third, youth fashion, which has been formed centering on media culture, has the flexible property that varies the symbolic significance according to which culture becomes the main axis. The symbolic significance in fashion, which is seen on media culture young people are contacting, has been examined in the aspects of value orientation, diversity orientation, speed orientation and digital orientation.

This article aims to research and analyze expressional characteristics of media art in Hussein Chalayan's fashion works. Media technology has made rapid progress over every society, in which it enables multi-dimensional communication. Under this social background, media art can use a multiplicity of technologies and go public. Media art had great influences in fashion with the leading designer as Hussein Chalayan. His works has been selected from the 90s up until 2008 focusing on expressional characteristics of media art by a professional group of fashion design. By classifying and analyzing of Hussein Chalayan's fashion works, expressional characteristics of media art displayed from works of the late 90s, and in recent years, the use of various technologies has increased. Expressional characteristics of media art in his works have been re-classified as interactivity, transfonnation, visualization, and transparency. First, interactivity by the wearer's action and emotional change is effective on emotional express, body protection and the causing of interest. Second, transfonnation by the wearer's action, functioning, and emotional change is influenced by convenience, body protection, and causing concern. Third, immateriality in media art is divided into visualization and transparency, and in fashion structural and material characteristics. Visualization by internal luminous source and digital images influences immersion and expression on fantasy images. Fourth, transparency by immaterial characteristics and piled up images affects openness and camouflage. Development of material and technology paves the way for expressional characteristics of media art in fashion. The trend of Hussein Chalayan's works moves towards emotional high-tech design with technology.

We believe distinguishable product development to be competitive against foreign products, and realize the need to expand domestic business worldwide. In order to be competitive, we should produce fashion items that meets global taste, and at the same time contain exclusive Korean culture and emotional beauty. This article examines and creates unique textile design with the touch of Korean art. Desigus have been proceeded under the following three themes: 'Strong Ego,' 'Gorgeous Days' and 'Song Eternal Seeking Love' using Primavision Computer-aided Design ("CAD"). We have put our interestes in Korean traditional paintings called Hangukhwa. Suitable design motives had been selected and modified from the four gracious plants (bamboos, peonies etc.), and paintings of birds and flowers. Primavision, a CAD software, had been used to manipulate those desigus, and to add instant changes in color, scale, and layout. We had modified Korean traditional motives to make modem image, and had arranged layouts which can be suitable for half-drop repeat and square repeat. The use of color is essential in pattern design. Thus, we explored coloring ways for each design to meet the trends, and the final mapping had been conducted in western style of dresses. We have tried to mix Korean image of textile designs with Western clothing style, expressing hybrid in the mapping process. With global movements, we need to develop products with Korean traditional exotic taste to attract foreign consumers. Therefore, we selected symbolic motives from Korean paintings to express deep spiritual significance. We developed textile design and processed mapping on selected western designer's dress, employing current trend colors and making crossover coordination. We realized Korean painting would be an excellent source for exclusive fabric design, and tried to create a modernized design which maintains Korean ethnical identities.

This article aims to discover the current status and appropriate way to research Gyubang craft, expecting its development and preservation, and elevating it to Korea's unique artistic textile culture. It also searches improved methods for Gyubang craft as the following: First, in order to avoid confusions about Gyubang craft, appropriate concepts and definitions of Gyubang craft must be settled through a discussion among experts. Second, by activating economic activities at lower ratio, among purposes of Gyubang craft, achievements must be elevated. Third, in order to settle down the difficulties of Gyubang craft, a variety of methods such as effective sewing machines and manufacturing techniques as well as providing materials at a reasonable price, considering practical ways through diversifying products, elevating the economy of crafts, exploring sales routes, improving educational contents, and expanding educational places must be facilitated. Fourth, for nurturing talented and excellent human resources in the area of Gyubang craft, the followings should be considered: diversifying contents of education, developing textbooks, improving instructors' quality, providing reasonable cost of education, educating on the utilization and application of Gyubang craft, introducing efficient teaching methods through textbooks and multimedia, awarding 'certificates' to trainees, and permitting certificate holders' to instruct Gyubang craft. Finally, it is convinced that the achievement of production, pride of preserving tradition, pleasure of procedural work, economic activities as experts, and sales of products will be reinforced, and the population for Gyubang craft is also expected to increase. By elevating Gyubang craft into Korea's traditional textile art, Korea's global competitiveness in the area of textile should be strengthened.

The main focus of the study resides in antecedents of price acceptability. Levels of acceptable price may be related to the consumers' perception on reasonable or expected price. Price acceptability is known to have several psychological antecedents. One of the antecedents to price acceptability reported by prior researches is price-quality inference, a tendency to correlate high price to excellence in quality. In addition, price-conscious consumers are likely to show lower level of price acceptability level. Another well-known antecedent is sale proneness. Sales-prone consumers may relate price of apparel products to product quality information. Moreover, it was reported that involved consumers should be more concerned with the products to its price and thus should have higher levels of price acceptability. A conceptual model with price consciousness, sale proneness and product involvement as the exogenous variable, price-quality inference and price acceptability as the endogenous variable was developed for the empirical study. Measures of research variables were developed based on previous studies. Questionuaires from 298 respondents were analyzed for the study. The average age of respondents was 27. About 60% of the respondents were married and about 65% of them had college degrees. Empirical results supported all of the hypothesized relationships. Price consciousness had significant negative influence on price-quality inference and price acceptability. Sale proneness significantly influenced price-quality inference, while apparel involvement had significant impact on price-quality inference and price acceptability. Price-quality affected price acceptability significantly. This study generated a framework to help scholars understand antecedents of price acceptability of apparel products. Price has been shown to playa dual role in consumer's perceptions, either positively or negatively. Price consciousness played a negative role, and product involvement had a positive role in evoking higher level of price acceptability. This study also suggests additional source of positive, yet indirect role of price, sale proneness. This study also affirmed the importance of price-quality inference in arousing higher level of price acceptability.

This article investigates the production process of knitwear focused on patterns and armhole forms in order to provide basic data for its value-added production. This study was based on empirical data obtained by questionnaires given to 51 respondents employed at knitwear companies. The data had been statistically analyzed with frequency analysis, one-way ANOVA, and Duncan test. The results of this study are the following: First, many knitwear companies used knitting machines, which had gauges as high as 14G. Second, most knitwears companies did not use patterns in the production process. Third, most knitwear companies produced knitwears in which armhole lines were different between the front part and back part of the body, while identical between the front and back parts of the sleeves. Fourth, people with experience in the knitwear industry had the tendency to recognize that armhole lines should be different between the front part of both the body and sleeves and their back part as well, and workers in charge of knitting recognized better than programmers and designers did. Considering the opinions of experienced workers that armhole lines differ between the front and back parts of both the body and sleeves would improve the appearance of knitwear, this study also suggests knitwear patterns of 10G and 16G by using ESMODE's basic knitwear pattern.

Internet shopping provides convenience to consumers, however, in recent years the consumer's return rate and return-related disputes continue to increase. This article examines the characteristics of return behavior through return experiences of internet clothing purchases. For an empirical study, questionnaires were handed out to 317 undergraduate male and female students, in which the results had been used for data analysis. Data were analyzed through SPSS 12.0 software, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, ANDVA analysis, Duncan test, and $x^2-test$. The results are the following: The analysis of consumers' return factor for clothes in Internet shopping showed there are five factors: product and quality, delivery, impulse buying, change of mind, and service. There is a significant difference in product quality of return factors depending on the availability of the return experience. Thus, consumers with return experience showed more return tendency owing to product quality factor than consumers without return experience. The availability of consumer's return experience was significantly related to information search. Consumers with return experience showed more consistent information search than consumers without return experience. There were significant differences in perceived risks depending on the availability and degree of consumer's return experience. In other words, consumers with return experience perceived more account related risk than consumers without return experience. Moreover, the more return experience the consumer has, the more risks consumers perceived in product performance.

This article aims to evaluate the visual effects and images according to the changes in the width of pleats of accordion pleats skirt. I altered the width of the pleats to seven categories in changes of 0.5cm, 0.7cm, l.0cm, 1.3cm, 2.0cm, 2.5cm and 3.0cm. For the visual evaluation, seven stimuli had been placed in mannequins, and had been estimated by experts in fashion design. For the visual evaluation according to changes in the width of pleats of according pleats skirt. I used 11 pairs of items to find their visual effects, and 17 pairs of adjectives to measure the visual images. Those stimuli and adjectives had been randomly given to evaluators and had been evaluated by the seven-point Likert type scale. The data have been analyzed by frequency, factor analysis, ANOVA, Scheffes test and correlation analysis. According to factor analysis of the visual effects of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into three factors: the verticality of the lower body, flexuosity of the lower body, and shape of the abdomen. According to factor analysis of the visual image of the accordion pleats skirt, the result was classified into the following three factors: activity, attraction and neatness. In visual effects, the verticality of the lower body had been assessed as the most important factor of all. The visual effect was positive when the width of pleats had been narrowed. In visual image, activity had been assessed as the most important factor. In the case of accordion pleats skirt, as the width of pleats became wider, it had a stronger image in being active and casual.

Cotton, wool, cotton/wool blended (80:20) and tencel fabrics were treated with low temperature oxygen plasma, enzymes (cellulase or protease), or oxygen plasma-enzyme and they were examined for dyeing and handling properties for environment friendly finishing. The appropriate conditions for cellulase treatment were enzyme concentration of 3g/l, pH of 5, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour, and for protease treatment were enzyme concentration of 4g/l, pH of 8, and $60^{\circ}C$ for one hour. The equilibrium uptake of a direct dye on cotton changed with plasma treatment and plasma-cellulase treatment, and the rate of dyeing slightly decreased. When wool was dyed with acid dye, the equilibrium dye uptake did not change with plasma, protease treatment nor plasma-protease treatment, however, the rate of dyeing had increased with plasma-protease treatment. From these results, it is assumed that plasma attacks the surface of the fiber, and enzyme mainly affects the inner part of the fiber. Plasma treatment did not affect mechanical properties related to the handling of fabrics. The handling test showed increased extension at maxmum load(EM), tensile energy(WT) with decreased tensile resilience (RT), and the fabrics became softer but resilience decreased slightly with enzyme treatment. The bending recidity(B), hysteresis of bending moment(2HB), and hysteresis of shear force at five degrees(2HG5) decreased, however, shear stiffness(G) increased. I knew the plasma pre-treatment made fabrics softer with lower koshi(stiffness). The handling of plasma pre-treated fabrics was better than that of enzyme-treated fabrics. When we pre-treated fabrics, the handling test showed decreased coefficient of friction(MIU), geometrical roughness(SMD), while the surface of fabrics became smoother and numeri increased. Even though compression resilience(RC) increased, fukurami(bulky property) and compressive elasticity, decreased due to the linearity of compression-thickness curve(LC) and compression energy(WC).