The purpose of this research is to find out the effect of clothing style and mixtures of stripe pattern direction, width, and coloration of an upper garment. The experimental materials made for this study are a set of stimuli and response scale(The 7-Point semantic). The subjects were 480 female undergraduate students in Seoul, Busan, Gyung-nam. The 80 stimuli which were variously incorporated with clothing styles and stipe patterns were assessed by the students. The following contents summarizes the results of the research. Impression factors of the stimuli consists of the 5 dimensions(Attractiveness, Show, Activity, Clearness, mildness). Amon these, the Attractiveness and Show dimensions proved to be more important. The clothing style and pattern direction indicated main effect in attractiveness and activity dimension. The pattern coloration showed a significant effect in dimensions except attractiveness and clearness. The pattern width had a significant effect only in the activity. Significant interaction effects of each clothing clause were found in the attractiveness, activity and clearness, but Show and mildness had no significant interaction effect. This research, as the 06 S/S, F/W trend, is a meaningful study in that it handled in the form of expression the stripe pattern used unrestrictedly in the casual wear or the formal wear by a fashion keyword.

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

Flexibility, love of symbols, small size-these are all qualites that accompany the proclivity towards compactness in Japanese culture. They developed and have been refined to an unusual level in Japan partly out of the necessity to use limited space economically, but these qualities also characterize the aesthetic preferences of the people. Because space is so precious, it receives a great deal of attention in every aspect of life. Over the centuries Japanese have devised innumerable ways to use space that are ingenious in their successful combination of pragmatism, harmony, and beauty. Folding, stacking, rolling, nesting, carrying, consolidating, miniaturizing and transforming are some of the techniques for living that have created the compact culture. Folding allows a one-dimensional object to be placed in prescribed small space. Stacking objects of the same shape makes use of vertical space, saving valuable horizontal space. Rolling an object reduces it to a tidy cylinder without creasing it, creating yet another form of repose for functionally flat things. Nesting several identically shaped objects of graduated sizes is known as ireko. Carrying things by hand makes them available for any occasion, by plan or on impulse. Consolidating is to bring together the multifarious systems of living into an integrated whole. Miniaturizing things is a way to bring even the universe down to the scale of a human hand. Transforming the face of things is another notable propensity in the Japanese life style. Each one is put to use in countless ways, suggesting principles and conceptions that encapsulate the wisdom of tradition. In this study I wishes to investigate the principals of Japanese traditional design and the applied case in fashion goods.

This study aims to suggest the Deconstruction theory that is changing and developing by being converted into visual from as cultural code which reflects the spirit of the times and art style as well as to analyze the phenomenon of deconstruction expressed in the Fashion photographs. Fashion photographs are historical documents presenting us with the evidence of the ideal body types and culture throughout time. Fashion photographs is direct information about the fashion itself, and at the same time, it transmits various circumstances of the times. Fashion photographs has opened a new aspect called visual communication, when it's seen in new, more profound way, instead of being locked in its visible frame. Photograph is no longer a mere means to preserve documentation or pursue artistic expression. Instead, it's now regarded as a way to pursue visual transmission owing to its cognitive psychology, and this is a remarkable step toward new thing. In this study, the possible visual information function of photograph was explored from diverse aspects, such as the combination of photo and design, its linking to printing technology's mass production function, or the development of its imagery symbolism. This study shows that the nature of deconstruction can be explained as deconstruction of the sexes, deconstruction of the time and space, and deconstruction of the genre.

In the 21st century, fashion design trend is focused on 'retro'. 'Retro' is the one of the important trends in this century. In the rapidly changing present, the more people want to find a clue to the hope and happiness from the past nostalgia. Reflecting such people's desire, retro fashion has boomed again from 2000 as one of powerful trends. This research conforms the meaning of retro fashion and characteristic of retro fashion design. And through this processing, it was find that retro fashion design had lost century retro romantic fahion image. Therefore, in this research, the processing about development of retro dress design of retro romantic fashion image was showed by using CAD. The results of this study are as followings. First, Retro fashion is worth the high value of good producr of new and creative for consumers who pursuit tranquil mood in the midist of dailly change Second, Nostalgia and revival of style for each 10 years after 1920's is well brought out in Retro trend of modernt fashion. Also decorative and elegant style are marked by retro romantic fashion mood. Third, fashion design using the computer graphics was presented by application retro romatic image. It is mixed with elegance and modernity based on retro feeling, It is suggested that computer graphics was effectively used in fashion design development to the newly romantic and modern style through 1950'-1960'intimate retro fashion image.

This study contemplates Croatian traditional costumes with focus on its geographical characteristics and acculturation with neighbor countries as a member of old Yugoslavian Union. Therefore, it contains the information from field works based on Croatian language, native costumes and folk materials wildly. Men usually wear wide linen pants ($ga\'{c}$), shirt ($ko\v{s}ulje,\;rnbina)$, vest (lajbek), hat and jacket ($kro\v{z}et$). Also they sometimes wear scarves or aprons. Women put on blouse, long skirt, apron, headgear with various decoration and scarf ($pe\v{c}a$), shawl (tibetui robe) or necklace together. Croatian folk dresses fall into three different styles by provinces, such as Pannonia, Dinar and Adria, according to the basic environmental and racial characteristics of each province. People of Pannonia plain generally wear white linen clothing and often use flounce and lace, which are influenced by Serbia and Hungary. In the Dinar mountain province, aprons with tassel, knitted vests made of leather and fur are very popular. The clothing of Dinar province has much commonness with those of Bosnia - Herzegovina and Montenegro which have metal buttons and belts. And the clothing of Adria coast is influenced by Italy a lot. There are many splendid silk clothes in its folk dress code. As mentioned above, there are a lot of foreign influences in Croatian history. Although there were severe cultural invasions in many times through its history, Croatians didn't just surrender to these cultural influences. People in Croatia comply with these new coming culture and reconcile these into their own tradition and dress code in their own way.

The purpose of this study is to consider the characteristics of beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty from the viewpoint of public morals and find out how characteristic beauty culture was developed along with traditional culture. Therefore, the clothes, the make-up, the style of beard and hair were examined and the beauty culture of women in the latter period Chosun Dynasty was considered. The changes of the beauty culture on the genre painting and the characteristics of the latter period Chosun Dynasty were analyzed. Conclusions are as follows ;First, in case of woman dress, the Korean Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. Due to the diversification of wearing, the underpants play as a decorations. Second, the hair which focus on the cleanness and the sanitation and the skin maintenance method were important. The make-up focus on make-up with powder which emphasis on the slim and round eyebrow, the small and thick lips for the beauty look of the latter period Chosun Dynasty. Third, a unmarried woman did the braids('Taun Muri') and a feme covert did 'Unseen Muri'. As people cling to the big and head of hairs gradually, the chignon('Terae Muri') was in fashion. The beauty culture in the latter period of Chosun Dynasty clothes and cosmetic treatment style were generalized through nobility, common people, lowly people. The imitation mentality which follow after Gisaeng style that led the fashion of that period was shown up. With understanding the beauty culture of the latter period of Chosun Dynasty, the study on the traditional beauty culture should be revitalized. This study help to uplift the pride on Korea traditional culture and to promote the globalization of Korean culture.

The objectives of this research were to investigate the relationship between purchase behavior and consumer dissatisfaction of cosmetics at internet shopping malls, and to examine how the purchase behavior and consumer values influence the consumer dissatisfaction. Subjects were 212 females in Seoul who had experiences of cosmetic shopping at internet shopping malls. Consumers showed highest dissatisfaction when the purchased cosmetics were different from the products showed at internet shopping malls. The dissatisfaction with consuming system was higher than buying system or transporting system. The higher the expense and frequency of cosmetic purchase, the lower the consumer dissatisfaction of buying system. Females of 18 to 24 years old purchased color cosmetics more than females of 25 to 39 years old did. Females of 25 to 39 years old purchased functional skincare products more than females of 18 to 24 years old did. The cosmetic purchase expense of older groups was higher than that of younger one. The more consumers spent time on the internet, the more frequent they bought the cosmetics at internet showing mall. Consumers were most willing to buy basic skincare products at the internet shopping mall (42.9%). The consumer dissatisfaction with cosmetics at internet shopping malls was influenced the most by the happiness value(-) and the next by the responsible value, the frequency of cosmetic purchase at internet shopping malls(-) in order.

Jeans fashion in contemporary fashion has various meanings and values, and the importance of it increases. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion. Fashion photograghs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2000 to 2005 were analyzed. The types of styles and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of Korean jeans fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of Korean jeans fashion styles were western style, punk style, neo classic style and ethnic style. 2. The characteristics of Korean jeans fashion designs were the varieties in material, color, technique of expression and application. 3. The formative feature characteristics were traditionalism, sexualism, extraordinarily and exhibitionism. Korean jeans fashion has developed creative and decorative designs through various designs and styles. As the activities of the people can be increased in the future, the function and the design of jeans fashion can be developed diversely.

The main objective of this study is to provide numerical guideline for the development of educational environment about girls in the adolescent period ($14{\sim}16\;years$) through comparison and analysis on physical standards of nation (report published in 1997). The sample for this work was chosen from data which were collected and measured by Size Korea during two years ($2003{\sim}2004$). In order to analyze feature of the somatotype of girls in the adolescent period, analysis was performed about 858 subjects on 22 body parts such as height (6 parts), width (3 parts), thickness (3 parts), circumference (4 parts), length (5 parts) and body weight. For the specific comparison on somatotype, $R\'{o}hrer$ index and Mollison's comparison graph were used. The result of this study enables us to know the important factors which affect the somatotype of girls in the adolescent period ($14{\sim}16\;years$) and will be utilized in various fields such as design of classroom, student uniforms, facilities and equipments for education, etc. According to the result of this study, future research will be focused on not only development of educational facilities but also uniform patterns of female students. In addition, the research on development of equipments which are being used by girls in the adolescent period ($14{\sim}16\;years$) will be another future research.

The augmentation in social deviation of adolescence is one of the issues that modern society should resolve. Deviation behavior of adolescents is often expressed as clothing behavior being against the social or school rules. Therefore, to understand the social deviation and clothing behavior of adolescents, the study investigated the relationship with the level of social deviation, clothing interest, the attitude toward clothing, and clothing deviation. Survey was utilized to collect the data and subjects were 411 female high school students. Principal component analysis and regression analysis were used to analyze the data. While the level of social deviation of female high school students had no statistically significant influence on the fashion-oriented attitude, clothing interest of them had an effect on the fashion-oriented attitude, suggesting that adolescents, having a high interest in clothing, thought the fashion-oriented attitude as an important clothing attribute. The level of social deviation of subjects had a statistically significant influence on the behavior of clothing deviation. The less the subjects took an interest in clothing and the lower the level of social deviation was, the more they thought the status-oriented clothing attitude as an important clothing attribute. Also, the result revealed a similar tendency in the modesty-oriented clothing attitude to that in the status-oriented clothing attitude.

This study is to review the printed cotton textile industry of Europe in 17th-l8th century, and specially investigate the development of the Toile do Jouy, printed French fabrics around the 18th century. Generally, the Toile de Jouy has two different meanings. The first meaning is the popular printed cotton textiles producted by wood block printing, copper plate printing and roller printing techniques at Jouy on Joas factory in France, around 18th century. The second meaning is the monochromatic upholstery fabrics printed by copper plate. Actually, this monochromatic printed textiles were the most popular printed cotton fabrics with large scale scenic designs with people, trees, birds, buildings, mythical heroes, protagonists of novel and country scenes of shepherds, sheep and other animals manufactured by Jouy on Joas factory. Main issue of this paper is to propose features of pattern, color and classify types of patterns expressed on the Toile de Jouy fabrics according to printing techniques such as wood block printing, copper plate printing and copper roller printing. And this study is also to analyze on origins of the variety of names called the printed cotton textiles in those days. The results of this study can help to understand the knowledge of printed cotton textiles in Europe and be effectively applied to develop printed fabric design in the textile industry.