This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

As the world has been forming the global village and the cultures of each country are exchanged, the unique cultural specialty of each country high been merged with the generality in the world. The increasing interest on the oriental world and the globalization recently brings the fusion form of oriental and occidental cultures. In such a global trend, it is our challenge to find out the traditional beauty and the design factors of Korea for the new challenge and development of Korean fashion and to develop the most Korean and global design by interpreting them in a modem sense. It is the Era of the Three States when an of official hat among the personal ornaments of Korea was firstly described on the literature, including the literature of ancient China and Chronicles of Three States and Heritage of Three States of Korea. Those literatures clarified that the people in Goguryeo Baekje, Silla and Gaya decorated themselves with gold, silver and jade. Furthermore, since various kinds of ornaments have been excavated, they shown the development of metal craft in the Era of Three States. This study aim to exploit the design motives among the gold crown elements among the ornaments during the Era of Three States, interpret them in a modem expression, develop the textile design using the Adobe photoshop and suggest the application approaches by applying them to the clothing design.

Clothing exports of Korea has grown rapidly till the latter half of the 1980's, contributing Korean economic development. However from the 1990's, the amount, the world market share and the international competitiveness of clothing exports have declined. Based on these phenomena, the purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics of export articles in Korean Clothing Trade focused on the 1990's. Statistical data of clothing articles(SITC 84 : Articles of apparel & clothing accessories) were used. The relative importance, trade orientation tendency and unit price of each export clothing articles were analyzed. The results of the study were as follows. On the relative importance, trade orientation tendency and unit price of each export clothing articles, outer garments or products that required complicated production process(e.g., coats, suits, ensembles, jackets, dress) had been decreased in the portion and weakened in the export orientation tendency. But one item in a set or casual wear like trousers, skirts, blouses, shirts, Jerseys, pullovers, T-shirts has been increased in the portion and risen in the unit price. These trends means that clothing exports of Korea were more focused on those category and the international competitiveness on those articles were advanced. From these results, this study can be contributed to establish the concrete clothing export articles strategies of Korean firms.

We performed the subjective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics used for S/S among fabrics as basis, five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yarns made by different twisting methods then, we did questionnaire survey targeting sixty females in the expert groups. Utilizing SPSS 12.0, correlation, ANOVA, Duncan, and Multidimensional Standard way were analyzed. The results are as following. First, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sense factor, in the 'drape sense', the acrylic/rayon blended knit was preferred as the most flexible, pliable, and elastic knit; in weight/bulk factor, the acrylic filament knit the most twisted was preferred as the least bulk, thin, cool and transparent knit; in 'surface depression sense' factor, A(F)W acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most haggard, straight, dry knit. Second, the result of evaluating on preferred knits followed by the analysis of the sensibility factor, in the 'neatness' the acrylic filament hit was preferred as the most clean, neat and delightful knit; in the 'comfortableness', the acrylic/wool blended knit was preferred as the most natural, stable, and comfortable knit. Third, according to the result of evaluating on preferred knits as the spring and summer, generally the acrylic filament twisted yarn knits were more preferred than the acrylic blended yarns. However the preference on the kinds of the acrylic twisted filament yarn showed that there is a little difference on the acrylic blended yarn knit.

Mu-Guan(武冠) is a headgear of northern nomadic people's costume, Ho-Bok(胡服). It became a part of Chinese(中原) Costume through the adoption of Ho-Bok(胡服) by King Muryong(武寧王) of Kingdom of Cho(趙). Chinese(中原人) did not use it as the formal costume of high class but the Costume military or low-level classes because Chinese(中原人) reguad it as a practical costume only for low-level classes. In this process, Mu-Guan(武冠) and it's clothes had got changed. It became high in shape by an influence Hsien-pi(鮮卑族)'s headgear and became generous in it's going with clothes for Chinese(中原) Costume. It needs to attend that Mu-Guan(武冠) could be found in Koguryo(高句麗)'s mural paintings. Mu-Guan(武冠) of Koguryo(高句麗) had kept the same pattern from middle of 4C to late of 5C. Actually Koguryo(高句麗)'s Mu-Guan(武冠) was similar with Han(漢) dynasty's, but It was quite different from Qin(晉) or Wei(北魏) dynasty's which belong to same period with Koguryo(高句麗)'s. It is possible to guess at Koguryo(高句麗) advanced Mu-Guan(武冠) as their own. Koguryo(高句麗) could be aware of 'Changed Mu-Guan(武冠)'. Because there are frequent diplomatic event between Koguryo(高句麗) and Chiese Dynasties, Barbarian Dynasties. Moreover the guess have persuasion by the existence of 'Changed Mu-Guan(武冠)'in Jee-an(集安) district's mural painting as a Costume of holy person. In brief, It could be noticed that Koguryo(高句麗)'s Mu-Guan(武冠) is distinguished from Chinese and Barbarian dynasties' and Koguryo(高句麗) advanced Mu-Guan(武冠) in their own style.

Main role to expand the fashion in the middle age was played by aristocracy and knight. They contributed to the fashion of the middle age regardless of aesthetic sense. First, in any age, there was a self-display design using splendid decoration or material in the costume of high-class people. Aristocracy, especially, knight in the middle age classified themselves from others by wearing the costume suitable for their statuses. Second, the Crusade knight appearing all over the cinema gathered various peoples and caused acute optic angle about specialty of costume. Therefore the trend preferring foreign costumes was changed to new fashion while it was connected to desire searching for a change. Third, although armor of knight was created because of protection in the war, in the 13th century, its character of motion and defense was emphasized and it became splendid style. More over, the costume of knight was developed to more emphasize masculine beauty with heavy upper body and light lower body so it caused sexual difference of costume in the middle age. Fourth, As knight searched effective defensive weapon, chain mail was relegated by plate armor. The order of armor that the hight wore in 1350 was as follows. First, he wears adhesive shirts, braies, hose and wears metal protector on arm and leg. He wears padded undercoat called gambeson, hauberk, plate armor and surcoat on them.

Young casual brands today is beset with perplexing difficulties, as consumer tastes become more sophisticated. Consumers request the type of product they want and how they want it differenciated from existing product. This study research that young casual brands seek to react to consumer who wants special and different fashion items, have a look for definite concept and target. Also In modem digital environment, Young Casual brands needs a quick and comprehensive action against a change of scene. So This study propose resort wear design with the use of computer graphics to applicate on young casual brands as developing various and effective design method, target on girlish young casual with unique indiviuality of lovely sensitivity. The result of this research as follows. First, young casual brands will have to seek ways to differentiate as brand identity, value of product, satisfaction for consumer's culture and lifestyle. Second, As a result of the adaptation of ethnic fashion, 8 resort wears designed development of girlish young casual wear using computer graphics. Third, computer graphics could contribute to the rapid composition of diverse, new and differenciated design research on it.

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

Fashion magazine advertising is the most excellent source of information in predicting the fashion trend. It plays a pivotal role in setting a direction for the fashion trend in the upcoming season. The purpose of this study was to review by photos of the $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$ collection shown in LONDON, NEW YORK, MILAN, and PARIS during 2002-2006 A/W and 2003-2005 S/S seasons, being focused on such fashion items published as coat, dress, one-piece, two-pieces(jacket+skirt/pants, blouse+skirt/pants). In the results of this study, designers presented coat(n=144) chiefly, blouse+pants(n=29) were presented few during 2002-2003 A/W seasons. During 2003-2004 A/W seasons one-piece(n=156) was looking bullish, blouse+pants(n=34) were declining. Dress(n=149) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=17) was presented few during 2004-2005 A/W seasons. During 2005-2006 A/W seasons coat(n=180) was revived, blouse+pants(n=26) were presented lowly. Therefore designers presented coat(n=605, 28.4%) extremely much during 2002-2006 A/W seasons. Designers presented one-piece(n=109) much, jacket+pants(n=22) were presented few in 2003 S/S. In 2004 S/S seasons one-piece(n=167) was presented vastly different than jacket+pants(n=42). Also one-piece(n=152) was presented mostly, blouse+pants(n=48) was presented few in 2005 S/S seasons. During 2003-2005 S/S seasons one-piece(n=428, 28.2%) was presented most. And designers in these four world fashion centers didn't prefer blouse+pants in A/W seasons and jacket+pants in S/S seasons. Based on the above findings, it could be confirmed that the fashion items trend was almost similar among the four collections of $pr{\hat{e}}t-{\acute{a}}-porter$. The results of this study suggest that the fashion collections are the most reliable information sources for fashion product planning. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will provide for some useful basic data for domestic fashion businesses in producing fashion items.

As Backje(B.C. 18-A.D. 600) is the whole area of Chungcheong, Jeonra, Kangwon and Gyeongsang provinces, the son of the founder of Goguryeo, King Onjoe, making the castle Wu'irae capital of the nation, founded Backje. The capital was transferred to Hansung by B.C. 5 and then to Gongju by A.D. 475. Backje governed the east of China and the northeastern coast. Due to the effect of Chinese culture there are remarkably Chinese cultural elements in dress and its ornament of Baekje. Therefore on the side of cultural part, the noble culture was formed more polished than that of Goguryeo, which affected the culture of dress and ornament. And also there were class differentiation noticeably. Baekje created splendid culture and affected the culture development of Shinra and Japan. The motive of culture creation could be the top of three countries in the foreign trade because there were geographically the widest vast plain and coastline which stretches out from north to south. Although there haven't been many materials about the cultural heritage and records more than other countries, through the modern visual point its design is fresh and more elegant those of other countries. But the fact is that there are few materials related to Baekje. What is worse, there rarely remains all original form and most of them are broken and lost. According1y, we cannot understand not only an original form of Baekje culture and but also the meaning included in it. It goes without saying that there are few materials about the clothes and fabrics. As understanding the culture of Baekje itself is insufficient, a culture enterprise utilizing it - to improve both the added value and economical achievement while combining the latest culture resources with other fields - hasn't been successful. In this study, the purpose is to improve economic power through commercialization and industrialization of the sources of the culture of Baekje. By reanalyzing a form and an image of Baekje relics, it is designed with new motif and modem preference on the condition of our peculiar cultural heritage. And while using this motif with Jacquard pattern, we made it possible to be applied to real life such as interior trinkets, etc.

With the help of the cooperative efforts made in the interdisciplinary studies among the different fields of computers, textiles and computer in the modem society based on knowledge-information, Smart Clothing, which is the combination of wearable Technology and clothing has been drawn. This study is to inspect the design of Smart school uniform, which if based on Wearable Technology, to meet the need for the PDG(Post Digital Generation) who want to require rapid and the convenient information. This study is aimed to quest for the direction of study in Wearable Technology through theoretical studies made in the field the Computer information communications Engineering, seminars in the field of Smart Textile and documentary study. In addition to them, this study is to search for the value for the school uniform in the PDG who are a group of potential consumers for the Smart Clothing, the environment in digitalized life and the need for the Wearable Technology. Based on this research, the concept of design reflecting the need for the characteristic and functions in the PDG was drawn and Design Prototype of Smart Jacket on the base of Wearable Technology was presented.

The purpose of this study was to classify the lower body of the lost women and to investigate the three-dimensional characteristics of each lower body somatotype of them. The subject were ninety seven women whose. age were twenties and whose height and bust girth were in the range of mean$\pm1\delta$ of typical body size of twenties' Korean women. The forty one variables of their lower body were measured by Martin's Anthropometric Instrument. And they were analyzed for mean, standard deviations factor analysis, and cluster analysis. In the second phase of analysis, the three participants were re-selected in each type were measured by Sliding Guage and analyzed their lower body somatotype. The results were as follows; The components of lower body of 20s' women were extracted with 7 factors through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax. The rate of the cumulative contribution was 84.1% the first factor was the thickness of lower body, the second factor was the vertical size of lower body the third factor was the front shape of hip, the forth factor was the vertical size of hip, the fifth factor was the shape of abdomen, the six factor was the flat-ratio of waist and the seventh factor was flat-ratio of hip. The somatotype of 20's women's lower body can be classified into 3 types. Type 1 is the standard somatotype of 20's women's lower body and the 34.0% of the participants in the study was categorized into type 1. Type 2 is a short and corpulency type with protruded abdomen and hip and the 29.9% of the participants in the study was categorized into type 2. And the type 3 is a tall and thin type with plat abdomen and hip and the 37.1% of the participants was categorized into type 3.

The purposes of this study were to examine the consumer's behavior on the brands applying the characters by gender, age and residential district, and then to propose the future planning of brands applying the characters and distribution strategies. From Junior on middle school to forty-year olds were selected for this study and areas were grouped to five for comparing the residential distinction. The questionnaire was consisted with 25 questions. Nominal scale and 5-interval scale were used for analysis. The SPSS 12.0 was used to analyze the technical statistics such as average, frequency, t-test, ANOVA, and $x^2$. The results of this study were as follows : 1) The characters influenced on remembering the brand's name regardless gender, agen and residential district. 2) When consumer bought the brand with character, the most important factor is the brand name recognition. 3) It would be desirable to use the one or two mixed methods which express the characters on the clothes. 4) When they distribute the character brands, they would supply more feminine characters in 3rd district, more manly one in 4th district and less quantities in the 3rd and 4th district for lowering inventory. The next must be follow to succeed the character using strategy of fashion brands. It is needed to segment the target for new character creation of specific generation, and to grasp the point of the trend which oriented by the target, and to reflect what they like and what they feel sympathy on character image and brand concept.

Contemporary young people reveal their own personal values through the fashion that creates visual looks. Since 2000s began, young generations who are self-centered, value their own personality and constantly seek for changes form the main axis of fashion. In particular, the lower half of the body that has begun to be exposed outward has become the region that they want to expose as more ideal region than the upper half of the body. Further, young generations always have interest in fashion, and female college students in their early 20s are regarded as the group that values the aspects of pleasure that involve clothes and tends to seek sensibility when purchasing clothes. With this background, this study aims to examine how the styles that apply to modern fashion and recent vogues are evaluated with a focus on skinny jean from jean pants styles preferred by female college students. Materials regarding theoretical background and photos were collected from fashion related magazines at home and abroad and from the Internet websites. Questionnaires were surveyed for 160 female college students aged 20 or 25 who live in Seoul, and the results show as follows: Many female college students enjoy skinny jean and follow the fashion. However there are consumers who cling to their own styles even in the fashion of skinny jen. Ironically, some consumers wear it although they consider it as an item that does not fit Koreans: they tend to consider perspectives from others rather than their own preferences. For example, they wear it in order to show it to their boy friends or because they want themselves to look slim. In addition consumers seem to use Dongdaemun Shopping Mall or Internet shopping malls that provide various and low-priced items rather than to use high-priced famous products. It is considered that this result is shown as above because the scope of the study was restricted to female college students in their 20s. Accordingly, it is suggested that further studies should extend their subjects to wider range of ages.

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

The purposes of this study were to identify the effect of clothing involvement and shopping orientations on the usage of information sources and to investigate the differences of clothing involvement, shopping orientation and clothing purchasing behavior according to the types of information source usage. The study subjects comprised 302 females living in Seoul. The datas were analyzed with factor analysis, regression, ANOVA, discriminant analysis, and $x^2$-test. The results generated from this study are as follows: First, clothing involvement and shopping orientation factors influenced the usage of information source. Among the clothing involvement factors, fashion/clothing involvement was the most important factor to the types of information source. Second, according to usage of information sources, female consumers were classified into four groups, such as active, nonpersonal, personal, and non-active information source usage group. Fashion/clothing involvement was the most significant involvement factor to divide four groups. Third, among the demographic variables, only age was the useful factor which can differ the usage of information source. For example, 30s' were more active than other groups, on the other hand 50s' use personal information source more than other groups. Therefore, marketer should blow consumer's clothing involvement and shopping orientation which are effective to the usage of information source, and use this knowledge on the advertising and marketing plan.