The purpose of this study is to analyze and understand the approach of critical fashion by comprehending the appropriation of art as a sociocultural phenomenon that influences contemporary fashion. This study inquired into the relevant literature to explain the theoretical background behind critical fashion, and conducted a case study using exhibition catalogues, exhibition works, articles, fashion magazines, and fashion-related websites in order to examine cases of appropriation strategies. As a subversion of meaning by using an existing transposable object image to deliver an experience unlike the actual image, subversive appropriation in critical fashion takes existing things as they are and rearranges them with the purpose of subverting social values while having its subversive style of appropriation. Referring to a style that focuses on labelling the distance between the subject, that refers and that which is referred to, referential appropriation has been reprogramming existing things with an internal and introspective attitudes. In other words, from an exploitative style of appropriation aimed at expanding the meaning with found in objects by avant-garde fashion designers, to a subversive style of appropriation aimed at subverting meanings with transposable objects by conceptual fashion designers, there has been a change toward the referential style of appropriation aimed at expanding artistic forms with created objects critical fashion designers.
Real-time two-way communication has become an important factor in the relationship between consumers and broadcasters in the Live Commerce environment. To clarify, the relationship of the factors, and the effect of Live Commerce's on consumer purchase intention were examined. In addition, the role of Wanghong, who broadcasts Live Commerce and Co-experience that occurs between consumer and broadcasters influences consumer purchase intention. An online survey method was conducted for 403 subjects in their 20s that were Live Commerce users in Shanghai, Beijing, and Guangzhou, China. The number of final the data used for the analysis was 274 and anlaysis was conducted using SPSS 26.0 program and a Sobel test was employed. Based on the analysis of the data, it was found that Live Commerce's characteristics consisted of interactivity, security, and Wanghong's characteristics consisted of honesty, originality, and expertise. Also, it revealed that Co-experience was consisted of responsiveness and vividness. Second, for Live Commerce's characteristics, the Wanghong's characteristics, and Co-experience had a positive effect on the consumers' purchase intention. Third, the Wanghong's characteristics and vividness, a factor of Co-experience, had significant mediating effects on the relationship between Live Commerce's characteristics and the consumers' purchase intention. Finally, responsiveness of Co-experience had a noteworthy mediating effect on the relationship between the interactivity of Live Commerce's characteristics and the consumers' purchase intention. This study confirmed the important role of Live Commerce's characteristics, the Wanghong's characteristics and Co-experience in relation to the consumers' purchase intention. In addition, the Wanghong's characteristics and Co-experience were proposed as a significant mediating factors.
This study observed the release of microplastics according to washing weights and filtering conditions, measured microplastic generation rates, fiber lengths, and fiber diameters. This study attempted to present data for the development of filters that decrease microplastic generation. For test samples, polyester piled knit fabric (cut-pile) was selected, which currently has the highest amount of consumption in the clothing industry, but can easily cause marine pollution because of its low biodegradability. For test equipment, a drum washer was used and microplastics were collected using two filter pore sizes, 5 ㎛ and 20-25 ㎛. Microplastic fibers weights and lengths were measured. The results of the experiment showed the following: 1) The release of microplastics differed according to the fabric weights and washing process; 2) washing fabric weights showed a differences in the collection amount according to the filter pore size (5 ㎛, 20-25 ㎛); 3) observations of differences in the lengths of the microplastics that occur during the washing process by filter pore size were made. Fibers with shorter lengths appeared with filter pore sizes of 5㎛ in comparison to filter pore sizes of 20-25㎛. The results from this study on microplastic generation by fabric during washing, demonstrated the following conclusions that can be used to reduce the release of microplastics. First, the release of microplastics according to fabric weights and washing courses are affected by physical force. Therefore, it is necessary to reduce the amount of physical force due to water flow, increase the fabric weight, or wash the material in low temperatures. Second, in the manufacturing of washing machines, microplastic filtration can be promoted or legislatation supporting microplastic filtration can be introduced.
This study aims to provide inspiration and methods for menswear design by analyzing elements for men's fashion using flower images. The results are as follows: Men's fashion types with flower images were categorized as classic tailored, casual tailored, casual wear, sports-outdoor. The order of frquency was casual tailored, casual, classic tailored, and sports outdoor. For the classic tailored type, the flower images are related with an X-line silhouette, and the arrangement methods, such as a scattered patterns, one-point patterns, and surface techniques, such as printing and embroidery were used, and similar color or monochromatic schemes appeared sequentially. For the casual tailored type, the flower images are related to an H-line silhouette, arrangement methods such as a scattered pattern, panel pattern, and surface techniques, such as print, embroidery, and jacquard were used, similar color and accent color schemes appeared sequentially. For the casual type, the flower images are related to H-line and Y-line silhouettes, and arrangement methods, such as a scattered pattern, all-round continuous pattern, and panel pattern, and surface techniques, such as print, jacquard, embroidery, and patchwork were used, similar color and contrast color schemes appeared sequentially. For the sports outdoor type, the flower image were related to A-line and H-line silhouettes, arrangement methods, such as a scattered pattern and all-round continuous pattern, and surface techniques, such as print and jacquard were used, monochromatic scheme and contrast color schemes appeared sequentially. Therefore, the flower images in men's fashion were applied to various design elements, and displayed an interesting result, different from conventional design approach.
This paper is intended to apply Mugunghwa, which is the official flower that symbolizes the country, to fashion cultural products to promote the identity and enhance the cultural value of South Korea. The purpose of this study is to increase the understanding and use of tradition. As for study methods, first, the range of uses for Mugunghwa were examined from diverse angles, second, images associated with modern senses that reflect trends were developed to create more value. Third, the role of a cultural ambassador was proposed by adding the image of Mugunghwa to fashion accessories and miscellaneous goods applicable to real life. This was carried out through theoretical and empirical studies, such as literature reviews and case study analysis, and as a result, 13 textile designs and 26 fashion cultural products were developed. It is hoped that the foregoing will enable the pursuit of new values of the image symbolizing the country and the forming a bond, and it is expected that the foregoing can provide opportunities to develop diverse national symbols, thereby enhancing the national image.
The purpose of this study was to compare and analyze the Chinese robe styles of the Paris and Beijing collections from 2014 to 2018 to find the differences between the expressions of European and Chinese designers on the Chinese robe style. The methods of research were a literature review to derive the design analysis items of Chinese robe styles, and a case analysis. The results are as follows. First, both the Paris and Beijing collections showed an increase in use of Chinese robe styles year by year. Second, in the Paris collection, designs using qipao styles from the Republic of China era appeared the most among the robe styles of various Chinese dynasties. Qipao style appeared the most in the Beijing collection too, but the robe styles from the era of Pre-Qin, Qin, Han, Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties appeared more often than in the Paris collection. Third, in the comparison of silhouette type, there were mostly X-type silhouettes in the Paris collection and A-type silhouettes in the Beijing collection. As for neckline and sleeve type, both collections showed stand collars and tube sleeves. Fourth, in color comparison, there were mostly red-based colors in the Paris collection and blue-based colors in the Beijing collection. Fifth, in the comparison of pattern type, there were the mostly plant motif patterns in the Paris collection, and complex patterns in the Beijing collection. In conclusion, it was confirmed that the Chinese robe styles of the Paris Collection expressed a design fused with various styles due to the tendency to respect the diversity of various cultures and of the Beijing Collection emphasized the beauty and ethnicity of traditional Chinese clothing.
The purpose of this study is to consider effective digital marketing strategies through analysis of luxury fashion brands. This study conducted both quantitative analysis and case studies of the brands Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Burberry, and Chanel. To measure the brand image of the luxury fashion brands, the survey was distributed to Millennials, and total of 277 responses were used for the final analysis by using SPSS 25.0 statistical program. Other than survey, this paper analyzed digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands through brand-related papers, website and social media of each brand, Samsung Designnet's database, and news posted on search engines. The results of this study are as follows: First, according to the result of examining brand image of luxury fashion brands, there was no significant difference between brands, except Gucci. Second, this study analyzed each luxury fashion brand to understand the characteristics of digital marketing, and common characteristics were identified. Third, by analyzing the brand image and digital marketing strategies of luxury fashion brands, it was confirmed that Gucci's brand image and digital marketing strategies were consistent, while there was a difference between Burberry's brand image and digital marketing strategy. Therefore, this article proposes the following digital marketing strategies that are suitable for luxury fashion brands. First, is the connection of on/offline channels. Second, is the use of AI technology. Third, is a blockchain-based platform.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the antibacterial efficacy of cotton and silk/rayon fabrics dyed with Saururus chinensis extract against antibiotic-resistant strains. The concentration of the concentrated dye in the Saururus chinensis extracts was 1.1% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:10 at 30-70℃. The mordanting method was a post mordanting method. The concentration of Al2(SO4)3, CuSO4 5H2O and FeSO4 and7H2O mordant was 5% (o.w.f), and the liquor ratio was 1:40. In order to assess the antimicrobial activity of naturally dyed fabrics, Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) ATCC 33591, was used by incubating it in Brain Heart Infusion Agar (BHA) including Oxacillin (2㎍/ml) and Fungizone (2.5㎍/ml) and Brain Heart Infusion broth (BHI; Detroit, MI, USA.) The investigation of the reduction of the rate of antibiotic-resistant strains to dyed cotton fabrics and silk/rayon fabrics revealed that Cu mordanting fabric has the highest antimicrobial effects, with the rate of 99.7%, and Fe mordanting fabric has the lowest, with 77.7%. Non-mordant cotton fabrics also show a high reduction rate of strains (94.6%). In the case of dyed silk/rayon fabrics, it indicates a high reduction in the rate of strains in all fabrics with non-mordant treatment (94.2%), Al mordanting (99.6%), and Cu and Fe mordanting(99.9%).
This study aims to analyze the style of men's suits and extract expressional words for the development of semantic differential scales of visual images according to the change in silhouette. Research methods are literature studies, case studies, and questionnaires. The stimuli were created using CLO 3D, a virtual sewing CAD. This study's results are as follows: 1) The British suit jacket has an angled shoulder line using thin pads, and a slightly higher waistline. The pants of the suit have a high waistline and two pleats, so the thighs of the pants are wide. The American suit jacket has a natural shoulder line, and the waistline is not emphasized. The width of the jacket is relaxed, and the length is long. The pants of the suit have a higher waistline, and the pants are wide as well. The Italian suit jacket has wide shoulders, and the waistline is connected lower with a soft curve, and the length is relatively short. The trousers of the suit are tapered and get narrower as it goes down to the hem. 2) Because it originated in the practices of true bespoke tailoring, traditional British suits have a far more 'fitted' silhouette than the mass-produced styles that became emblematic of the American style. By the late 1950s, a sack-style suit was standard American business attire. This technique gives the sack suit its characteristically 'boxy' silhouette. The "Continental" presented a highly tailored silhouette, with padded shoulders, a slim, tight-fitting chest, and a closely tapered waist. The story was that Italian culture valued aesthetics over all else and thus sought the 'slim' suit style as much as possible. 3) The main expressional words of visual images for men's suits differ greatly depending on the silhouette of suit. The visual images are ranked in the order of 'neat', 'classic', 'educated', 'hard', 'mature', for fitted silhouettes. The words of 'masculine', 'basic', 'comfortable', 'simple', 'mature', 'conservative', 'modern', are ranked for boxy silhouettes. And the words of 'slim', 'young', 'neat', are noted for slim silhouettes.
This study aims to identify the perception of New-Hanbok one-piece dresses that female consumers have purchased and to analyze the design preference based on design types and brands. Analysis was conducted on New-Hanbok brand websites, and additional research was carried out through a survey of 402 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 36 questions, which were divided into categories including pattern, color, material, and recognition of the one-piece dress. The research results are as follows. First, the preferred design form of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress was long length, medium fit, princess line, round git, rectangular git, regular width git, V neckline, regular width dongjeong, front closing with a wide overlap of the chest are a, narrow goreum, a skirt part with moderate crease spacing and number of pleats, A-line skirt silhouette, long and narrow sleeves, diagonal shoulder line, and a cuff at the end of each sleeve. Second, the preferred colors of the New-Hanbok one-piece dress were bright, neutral, or light and were predominately monochromatic Third, the preferred fabric conveyed a contemporary atmosphere through its print pattern. The most favored fabric material was cotton. Through this study, more systematic design development research should be carried out focusing on the current situation and identifying problems, thereby improving traditional culture.
This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.
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