• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.1
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• pp.1-8
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• 1989

In order to investigate the mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shearing, thickness and weight of the wool fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Samples were classified into blend ratio, weave type, fabric count. Blend ratio was classified into two groups, which are P/W blended fabric (p=63~65%, w=35~37%) and all wool fabric. Weave type was classified into four groups, which are plain, 3 harness twill, 4harness twill, satin. Cloth count was classified into three groups, which are loose, medium, tight. Statistical analysis was performed using T-test, F-test. The results were as follows; 1. There was significant difference in the thickness, tensile, bending, shearing according to the blend ratio. 2. According the weave, there was significant difference in the bending, weight and thickness in the P/W blended fabrics. There was significant difference in the tensile, weight, thickness, bending, shearing, shearing hysterisis (2HG) in the all wool fabrics. 3. There was significant difference in the shearing properties according to the fabric count.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.759-769
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• 2001

The principal purpose of this study is focused on the fabrics used in Kaya period by investigating the imprinted fabrics on the remains of the old tomb of Dohang-ri and Jeesan-dong which were built around the late 4th century to the late 6th century. Most of the remains are plain weaved, however there is one remain that 4-end complex gauze with patterned, and the other is weaved with geometrical pattern which were plain weave with 2 · 1 twill and 3 · 1 twill. The imprinted fabrics that had twists had S twists only. Of all the fabrics that were examined, the most loose one had the density of 8 × 6/cm, the most fine fabric had the weft density of 91.8 strands/cm and the warp density cannot be counted. It is No. 416 of Doharg-ri tomb that has the highest ratio of density as 3.15. All the fabrics observed by SEM and Polarizing Microscope are hemp.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.1 s.215
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• pp.139-150
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• 2006

Eighty-four fabrics, all weaved from silk, were excavated from Kim Yeoon's tomb. They comprised 51 pieces of silk tabby, 13 of satin damask, 17 of twill, and 2 of complex gauze, 1 of damask on tabby. The fabrics featured high quality of satin, a uniquely patterned satin damask, various silk tabbies, and 3-end complex gauze. The names of the fabrics used in this article are based on literature sources and include silk tabby(紬), thin silk tabby(紬), filament silk tabby(絹), satin damask(段), complex gauze(羅), simple gauze(紗), and twill(綾).

• Korean Journal of Hazardous Materials
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.55-61
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• 2018

In this study, the molten metal protective performance of various molten metal protective clothing materials such as herringbone twill laminated aluminium foils, oxydized-polyacrylonitrile laminated with aluminium deposited polyethylene terephthalate films, twill fabric laminated with aluminium deposited polyethylene terephthalate films and nonwoven laminated with aluminum deposited polyethylene terephthalate films, were evaluated according to modified EN ISO 9185. The results showed that the molten metal protective performance of tested samples improved with the increase in fabric structure density, weight and thickness. In addition the effect of the thickness of aluminum foil on the molten metal protective performance is not significant. It was found the fabric is more important in the molten metal splash protective clothing.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.8 no.12
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• pp.190-197
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• 2008

Weaving design which is to be designed based on the machine words threading and treading is characterized by its strong limitation of expression. The concept of design has been set based on the patterns on the wooden rice-cake mold which arechosen from many Korean traditional patterns since the expressions of patterns limited by the wooden rice-cake mold is easy to be grafted upon each other. Particularly, literal patterns and geometrical patterns contain religious desire and wishes that are generated from man's fear and wonder about Nature rather than from the pursuit of beauty which is general characteristics of patterns. Based on these images, the twill technique, especially threading of Sally Nielson's rosepath which is easy in formal expressions is used to design Korean style patterns into the weaving structure. It is hoped that this study will provide an opportunity to introduce Korean style patterns to the weavers of the world and that the weaving designs will actively be utilized in the Korean industries so that they can acquire high value-added assets and commercialize our superior culture, thus being of great help to developing our cultural industr.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.17-22
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to obtain the basic element of patterns, which is the motif, from the existing art works and use it to create and simulate a variety of patterns to show the practical use of the computer. Natural dyed works of geometric shapes like squares and 1/4 of circles, each dyed with a different natural dyes, were produced and motifs were extracted. Then using the 4D box in Adobe Photoshop v.6.0, the developing pattern change and simulation effects when using different patterns and different repetition settings were examined. Observations were made as the motifs were replicated. Different patterns like a diagonal line, a square and a circle appeared. In order to find out the effects according to the changes, the motifs from work's square portions, circle centre, and the composition of eight motifs were extracted and used. The repeated patterns according to the extracted motifs simply showed that in the case of just repeating and arranging, square patterns appeared. By replicating and arranging, the motif and the allophone were matched and patterns with regular lines were formed, like a twill, pointed twill line. By setting the direction to Y and X in the repetition methodes, a typical half-drop arrangement or a brick pattern arrangement were formed according to 1/4, 2/4, 3/4, 1/3, or 2/3 in changes. Also the steepness of the slope changes quickly or in turn slowly as the rhombus shape appears. However in the case of a composed motif, an ogee pattern appeared. Lastly, by 3-D mapping patterns like a slant line, pointed twill patterns, diamond patterns, and the repeat patterns of a motif with a circle and a line combined, and a circle motif, an optical illusion could be observed.

• Composites Research
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.8-14
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• 2010

Three types of glass woven fabrics (plain, balanced twill, and unbalanced twill) having various sample sizes and aspect ratios were tested using the bias-extension tests. Real-time deformation images, force, and displacement data were collected. For the bias-extension test, the shear angle of the fabrics from the equation based on the crosshead displacement and fabric size was compared with direct manual measurements of the warp and weft angles as well as the optical measurement software. To determine the shear force, an analytical equation was introduced considering the kinematics of the bias-extension test. The obtained shear behaviors were further compared with the results by the trellis-frame test. The optical measurement methods showed that the mathematical method was reasonable before the shear angle of the fabrics reaches $30^{\circ}$ in the bias-extension tests. Also, the bias-extension test gave consistent behaviors with the trellis-frame test only for isotropic and homogeneous fabrics such as balanced plain and twill weaves.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.101-115
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• 2001

This study is to examine the characteristics of fabrics in Koryo dynasty by reviewing the fabrics for enshrining oblations inside a buddhist statue in MoonSoo temple, which are currently possessed in SooDuk temple. The research results follows : The fabrics are 33 pieces in total : 28 Pieces of normal fabrics, 5 pieces of fabrics that is used for covering the five grains, and others like variegated silk threads. Out of 33 pieces of fabrics are there 31 pieces of silk and 2 pieces of ramie. The tabby fabrics, which have the most pieces among the fabrics, are 11 pieces in total. There are 1 piece of designed tabby fabri. whose patterns are expressed by dyeing. as well as non-designed tabby fabric. The twill fabrics are 8 pieces in total. Its patterns are mainly the type that small patterns are consecutively reiterated. And they have various patterns including plant patterns, such as lotus pattern, flower pattern. etc., animal patterns such as dragon pattern. etc., geometric patterns. such as turtoise-shell pattern. swastika, etc. The leno and gauze fabrics are 1 piece of 4-end complex designed-gauze and 1 piece of gill gauze. The compound woven fabrics are 2 pieces of brocaded gauze and 3 pieces of brocaded twill. Brocaded gauze is a kind of brocaded fabrics and is made by adding a gold thread between wefts of already weaved gauze. The figured fabrics are 1 piece of tabby fabric, 6 pieces of twill fabrics, 4 pieces of leno and gauze fabrics, and 5 pieces of compound woven fabrics. All of them are 16 pieces out of all 33 pieces and amount to almost 50%. Single-patterned fabrics, that is one pattern is expressed individually, are much more than any others. Plant patterns are the ones that are used the most.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.8
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• pp.37-47
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• 2007

This study is considered about the fabrics of the tomb of King Muryeong at the Baekje(百濟) Period. First, there were silk fabrics such as compound woven silk(錦), twill damask(綾), complex gause(羅) and plain weaved silk(平絹). All of compound woven silk(錦) are the warp-faced compound tabby(經錦) of plain weave and the density is various from high to low one. The twill damask(綾) was a variation of twill damask weaved with a six strand warp thread. The complex gause(羅) made patterns as a set of 2 strand, 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand warp threads are weaved alternately with the weft. There were three kinds of plain weaved silk(平絹). The first was weaved densely without space between strands. The second was weaved with a small space between strands. And the third was weaved with a two strand warp thread, having a space between the threads. On the other hand, several pieces of well preserved ramie cloth were excavated. Of the, the densest one has the density of 125 strand/inch for the warp and the weft. In addition, strings made of flax thread were found. This suggests that flax fabrics may be found additionally if the hardened lumps of fabrics are resolved and analyzed. Other materials discovered include knits, knotted strings, embroideries, threads and floss. Pieces considered knits and knotted strings occupy a large part of fabrics excavated from King Muryeong's Tomb, and in particular knotted strings show various knotting methods. In addition, embroideries such as chain stitch and button hole stitch are clearly observed. What is more, there are silk threads and hemp threads, which are presumed to have been used for dangling ornaments such as Yeongrak(瓔珞) and beads or for sewing. Besides, floss was found between fabrics.