• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.379-388
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• 2018

The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the Aloha shirt, is a short-sleeved, colorful shirt with traditional Polynesian designs (e.g., hibiscus, fish) originating in Hawai'i. The shirt was selected for study because it is a unique garment that originated in the Hawaiian Islands in the late $19^{th}$ and $20^{th}$ centuries and marketed as a tourist product but was eventually adopted as appropriate residential clothing by the $mid-20^{th}$ century, however with different aesthetic details. Today, it is assumed by Hawaiian Island residents that tourists demonstrate poor taste when selecting a Hawaiian shirt. The purposes of this study are to examine the validity of the assumption that tourist taste and resident taste in Hawaiian shirts are different and to investigate the current Hawaiian shirt market change. For this study, 555 questionnaires were obtained from tourists and residents, and 10 Hawaiian shirt retailers/wholesalers participated in in-depth interviews. The results indicated that differences do exist between tourists' and residents' preferences for print designs and colorway. The market change of Hawaiian shirts was also recognizable in that an increasing number of tourists select Hawaiian shirts similar to resident customers, as part of their routine lives rather than as holiday or vacation garments. Other differences in Hawaiian shirt shopping behavior included the findings that tourists consider fabrication less important than resident customers who consider fabrication more (i.e., cotton 100%). By using both quantitative and qualitative methods, this study contributes to the fashion design and marketing field as well as help manufacturers and retailers with their merchandise and distribution plans.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.77-94
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• 2011

It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.5 s.95
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• pp.65-77
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• 2005

This stuffy is to understand the symbolic meaning of Korean traditional animal Patterns, to analyze their figurative characteristics focusing on fabric relics of Chosun Dynasty, and to search their internal beauty as well as their external beauty. Animal patterns can be classified as Individual type, the type that only animal patterns are used, and Compound type, the type that animal patterns are used with other patterns. The Individual type was not found at all. Only the Compound type, compounded with two or three other patterns, were found. Among the other patterns used in the Compound type, botanical patterns and heaven-and-earth-shaped patterns were the majority while letters patterns were rarely used. Bird patterns take enormously large part of the animal patterns. In terms of the arrangement, animal patterns are classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type.'rho three types are almost equal in their quantity. Picturesque type is found comparatively a lot. Animal patterns are much more frequently used in female clothes than in male clothes. For female clothes, they are mostly used in some parts of the clothes with ornamental effect. But, for male clothes, they are mainly used all over the fabric by weaving animal patterns on it. Not just their external beauty, animal patterns have also internally beautiful characteristics, such as keeping away from wicked ghosts, hoping for good luck, emblematic features, having ideological meanings, and so on.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.59-69
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• 2009

This study aims to identify how Korean women's traditional costume, Hanbok, has changed according to the times in terms of color coordination of Jeogori and Chima. Photos had been taken at wedding places and streets at 5 major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Kwangju, Daejon, Jeju) at two weekends of each season in 1999, 2001, and 2003. Total 1617 photos were used as final data. Data were analyzed by hue coordination and value level. Hue coordination exist in one-color and two-color coordination. In one-color coordination, red color(R & RP) was the most frequently used and blue green(BG) was the next, and the least was blue purple(BP) for each year. In value scale, high level was the most frequent and followed by middle level and low level. Pink was the most preferred color for one-color coordination. In two-color coordination, white and blue were widely used for Jeogori and red and blue far chima for each year, which seemed to be the basic color coordination for Jeogori and Chima. While there was a certain basic color coordination types across year, but a few new color coordination appeared each year and maintained as popular color coordination for one or two year.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2009

This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times ($1890{\sim}2000$) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.

• The Journal of Korean Medical History
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.49-59
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• 2016

Ginseng, a Korean native herb, has been a symbol of mystic cure-all which provides longevity benefits throughout Korean history. According to Chinese historical records, a major source of wild ginseng has been described as Korean peninsula, which is the most suitable ginseng production area, and the Manchu region near Mt. Baekdu and the Maritime Province. Since Tang dynasty period (618-917 CE), Chinese has also called ginseng as "Goryeo Ginseng", which is named after "Goguryeo" (37 BCE-668 CE), an ancient kingdom of Korea, from which they mainly imported the herb as the region was famous for its high quality of ginseng. To date, it refers to Korean ginseng. This study compares the medicinal properties of ginseng as stated in the ancient Korean medical books with the major Korean historical records regarding the usage of ginseng and its symbolism of longevity in everyday life. By contrasting these findings, we tried to figure out how the actual medicinal properties of ginseng and the anticipation of longevity are related. It was confirmed that the expectations about longevity were widely applied to everyday life. In addition, the study investigates the various usage of ginseng as a motive for decorative patterns and as an ingredient for daily products including snacks, health drinks, various types of food, clothing patterns, and so on. Finally, the usage of ginseng ingredients in the cosmetic products fulfilled the desire of Korean people to purchase, showing the aesthetic recognition and medicinal understandings about the herb. These findings suggest that ginseng is an important medicinal agent that not only symbolizes longevity and good health but also has a great influence on the lives of Koreans.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.839-853
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• 2016

This study proposes that Malevich's 1913 performance "Victory Over the Sun" was not just Cubo Futurism, but that it produced Suprematism in the early 20th century. "Victory Over the Sun" did away with traditional set and costume design and a call to the Russian avant garde. Therefore, this study analyzes the characteristics of set and the costume design in "Victory Over the Sun", and considers how it impacted twenty-first century fashion designers like Margiela. The results of the study are as follows: first, Margiela reinterpreted the characteristics of the costumes featured on "Victory Over the Sun" from a cubist perspective and represented geometric spatial structures and mechanical human images through changes in methods and materials. second, he designed costumes by applying to the set and costumes expressed black & white images on "Victory Over the Sun". and third, Margiela reinterpreted the warrior image using geometric forms and colors in a creative way. Contemporary fashion designers, including Margiela, express their artistic creativity through various representational and materials choices. They want to convey their subjective personality and emotional sensibility to the public by mixing and deforming existing arts like painting, sculpture, and crafts to create new images. Thus, the creative intentions of the latest fashion designers have expanded art of costume design, exemplifying the process by which art is evolves and is made new.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.1-19
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to design curriculum content structure integrating three systems of actions for 2009 revised current home economics curriculum. For the development of content structure and content elements, a development team of two home economics scholars, a cooperating team of three home economics teachers, and an expert team of 15 home economics teachers and professors were organized. Phase 1 of curriculum development was developed by integrating three systems of actions with traditional home economics content areas of clothing, food, housing, consumption, and family by the development team. It is examined by the cooperating team and in phase 2 is recommended to build matrix of units of the current curriculum and the three systems of actions. The final phase of curriculum development illustrated a content structure integrating the sub-units of 2009 revised current curriculum and the three systems of action following the expert group's professional opinion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.71-87
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• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.117-127
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• 2010

In this study, hyperspace is a result of imagination created by means of facts and fiction, represents a transfer to determination and indetermination, and means an extension to an open form. In other words, hyperspace is a high dimensional space expanded to imagination through the combination of the viewpoint on facts in this dimension and fiction. When the 2D plane surface or 3D symmetry is destroyed, or when the frame is twisted or entangled, the non-Euclidean geometry is created eventually. And when the twisting leads to transmutation and the destruction of the form reaches the extreme; this in turn became the twisting like Mbius band. Likewise, the non-Euclidean geometry is co-related to the asymmetry of the Higgs mechanism. When the 'destruction of symmetry' is considered, symmetric theory and asymmetric world can be connected. The asymmetry in turn can maintain balance by arranging the uneven weights at different distances from the shaft. Moreover, at this the concept of the upper, lower, left and right, which was included in the original form, may be crumbled down. The destruction of the symmetry is essential in order to present forecast that coincides with the phenomenon of the real world. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic is expressed by asymmetry, twists, and deconstruction and its representative characteristic is ambiguity. The boundary between the front, back, upper, lower, inner and outer is unclear, and it is difficult and vague to pinpoint specific location. The design that does not clearly define or determine the direction of wearing costume is indeed the non-oriented design that can be worn without getting restricted by specific direction such as front and back. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic of hyperspace have been applied to create new shapes through the modification of the substance from traditional clothing of the eastern world to modern fashion. The way of thinking in the 'hyperspace' that used to be expressed in the costumes of the east and the west in the past became the forum for unlimited creation.