• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.61-78
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• 2021

Gianni Versace is one of the most influential Italian designers between the 1980s and 1990s and a representative person to add sexiness and splendour to Italian fashion. This study aimed to analyze the design identity that resulted in the successful handover to Donatella Versace and to review how effectively differentiated and unique heritage elements of Versace were transferred and operated. Literature reviews were performed to find Gianni Versace's design identity and archive. The scope of this study was Donatella's collection from 2018 to 2020. In particular, Signature, the most remarkable design identity of luxury brands with a visual identity that includes the mark, logo and symbol and design elements such as the item, colour, materials, details, etc., were the special focus. In this study, the elements of the visual identity of the signature were classified with the logo, icon, silhouette, materials, patterns, colours, and changes in details that were applied with the uniqueness and philosophy of the differentiated brand. Donatella Versace empathized with Versace's heritage as the brand heritage recalling Versace's honour in the 1990s and reproduced his honour again by reinterpretation of Versace's design images. Donatella is considered an excellent creative director who leads the brand by keeping the heritage and applying the trends of the times. This study as a case study of Versace has the meaning that Versace has maintained the brand identity starting from Gianni Versace as the first generation and successful takeover after the change of directors upon recreation to meet the modern times.

• 복식
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• 제58권7호
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• pp.164-179
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• 2008

The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.114-117
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• 2016

It is recognized that the global apparel market of the twenty-first century is largely profit driven, and that the majority of producers and retailers have sourced products from the lowest cost locations. Purchase tickets of fashion goods available from 'fast' fashion retailers (at least within the UK) refrain from providing the consumer with details of the full circumstances of production. It seems that the majority of major retailers and producers are not willing to engage in levels of self-regulation which could ensure that the products offered to consumers are ethically produced and offer acceptable levels of sustainability. Meanwhile many fashion consumers have the desire to purchase sustainable products, produced ethically by workers paid fair wages in safe working environments. Consumer demand could be a powerful tool to adjust the behaviour of manufacturers and buyers. This paper proposes the introduction of international legislation demanding greater degrees of transparency than exist currently and that the full sourcing and production details of fashion products are stated clearly on the product's purchase ticket within its retail setting. With the introduction of such legislation, consumers could thus be given the opportunity of purchasing goods which they feel accommodate their own views on ethical manufacture and sustainable products. In turn, consumer pressure could ensure indirectly that retail buyers consider all ethical and sustainable aspects of production when negotiating with garment producers/suppliers. Further to this, such a negotiating stance could ensure the improvement of the terms and conditions of employment of the numerous garment workers worldwide.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.101-119
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to consider the interactivity which appeared on the fashion media that focus on Showstudio's fashion projects. Showstudio is a famous fashion site that was founded by the famous photographer, Nick Knight, which has displayed interactive projects with fashion designers and artists. The methods of this study are undertaken by theoretical studies and project analysis. The 38 projects under the 'interactive' category are being chosen among archive data and the project explanations, photos and videos provided from the site are studied. Interactivity of fashion projects in Showstudio is considered by main factors such as two-way communication, participation, user control, and responsiveness. Two-way communication appears as transactional communication in the creation process and feedbacks from contents of users. The characteristic of participation appears as participation in the creation process and the practical use of contents. User control appears as control of contents, user interface and streaming media systems. The characteristic of responsiveness appears as real time and synesthesia responsiveness between the user and contents. Showstudio show free communication through digital information transmit system and also indicate the opportunity of innovative interactions among users, media, and contents.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.143-155
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is elucidate the status and role of fashion house museums including art museums that are affiliated to luxury fashion brands. This study is significant in that it offers profound understanding of the history of luxury brands and the direction of communication these luxury brands are taking through online and offline museums. For research methods in this study, literature review and case studies were combined. Based on the luxury type classification by Sicard, the scope of research was determined to include the French classical luxury brands to modern luxury brands and contemporary luxury brands. Examining the current status of fashion house museums, it was found that Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art is an art museum operated by the luxury fashion brand, Cartier. Other fashion house museums in operation included $Herm{\grave{e}}s$ Museum, Foundation Louis Vuitton Museum, $Crist{\acute{o}}bal$ Balenciaga Museum, Yves Saint Laurent Museum, Gucci Museum, Christian Dior Museum, Prada Foundation Museum, Ferragamo Museum, Armani Silos, and so on. As for online museums, there was Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum. These luxury fashion brands' museums serves the following roles: provides references to the fashion industry professionals and researchers; differentiates the brand as means of experience marketing; promotes the brand and enhances brand communication through exhibitions of the founder and designers; archive the brand's design and builds the brand's history as a means of storytelling marketing.

• 복식
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• 제65권2호
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• pp.105-124
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• 2015

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.

• 복식
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• 제58권6호
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• pp.69-84
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• 2008

Considering that star reflects the image of current society, analyzing fashion of celebrity is to read ideal type and demands of beauty of the era. Especially the rock music-represents youth culture that last on present day-born in 1960's, and it is considered to a significant decade in pop music history. Thus this research will analysis rock star's fashions in iconological view of E. Panofsky. The aim of this document is Clarifying how the fashion of pop stars appeared and what formed its worth. As a result of analyzing fashions of rock star in 1960's, it is available to find these sameness and difference. The Mods borrowed images of the past, and introduce the elite modernism and shows very urban style. The Folky and the Psychedelic showed post-structuralism propensity against industrial society, in the case of the Folky it induced styles that symbolize labor class to realize social worth. And as an aftereffect of war and repulsion of commercial worth, they embody nature-returning peasant look so that it shows pastoral mood in total. The Psychedelic express somewhat struggling escapism and it generated illusionary images with quests to superego and glorification to psychedelic status. The Folky and the Psychedelic are same in the side of introducing existentialism, this occurred by using ethnic factor. But the Folky showed plain outlook by pop propensity, on the other hand, the Psychedelic showed magnificent outlook such as optical art, pop art, and futurism ought to express merrymaking culture. And common feature of these is introduction of unisex mod which is came after the change of gender role. Thus each star or group has professed special ideology into their culture and it is reflected to acts which is including music and dress style. This affair is analyzed like these two things. The mass of people schemes their identity with inducing special ideology to their culture at the first. And the purpose to archive cultural hegemony in inter-social class at the next.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.261-275
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• 2022

K-Pop과 K-Fashion이 전 세계의 주목을 받고 있는 현 시점에서, 한류와 연계하여 한복 분야의 좀 더 다양한 아이템을 현대적으로 재해석한 패션상품을 개발해 한류문화와 한류패션을 활성화시킬 필요가 있겠다. 이에 본 연구는 K-Pop의 원형이라 할 수 있는 궁중연희에서 연행된 궁중정재를 주제로 한류연계 패션상품을 개발하여, 문화와 패션 영역을 융합하고 확장해 보고자 하였다. 이를 위해 궁중정재복식의 원형과 현대에 연행되고 있는 궁중정재의 복식을 분석하여, 기존의 일상적인 한복과 차별화되는 무산향·연화대·처용무·춘대옥촉·춘앵전복식을 선정하였다. 이 5가지 복식의 특징적 요소가 반영된 한류연계 패션상품을 디자인했고, 3D 가상 착의 프로그램인 클로(CLO)를 활용하여 실루엣과 사이즈를 점검한 후 총 5착장의 상품을 개발하였다. 이에 본 연구를 통해 첫째, 디자인적인 측면에서 한국적인 디자인의 대중화, 둘째, 산업적인 측면에서 한류콘텐츠 영역의 확대, 셋째, 국제적인 측면에서 K-Fashion의 세계화 등의 효과를 기대해 볼 수 있을 것이다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.100-113
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• 2018

From the late 17th to the early 18th century, Europeans were strongly intrigued by products from the East. Therefore, several countries like England, France, and Netherlands formed the 'East India Company' to pursue trade. First, European markets rapidly responded to this desire for exoticism by importing goods; then, they produced imitation Oriental goods. Finally, they made stylistically advanced exotic merchandise from the perspectives of European. In terms of the textile industry, this trend was expressed in the pattern design of silk, or the so called 'bizarre silk.' In this paper, bizarre silk patterns were scrutinized based on a digital archive of museums, catalogues of museums, portal sites, and the literature. The bizarre silk patterns were analyzed then classified into six categories: pseudo-Oriental plant pattern, pattern mingled with architectural motifs, pattern of juxtaposed with Oriental goods, abstract pattern, exuberant pattern with metal threads, and semi-naturalistic pattern. These patterns were characterized according to the following features: strangely large exotic floral patterns were undulating and asymmetrical; exotic foliage and flowers were sometimes mixed with architectural motifs or Oriental goods to easily show the Oriental influence; motifs of bizarre silk patterns were abstractly stylized; bizarre silk patterns became luxurious once more like the Baroque period; finally, floral patterns became more natural, and still exotic motifs remained in the background to maintain the bizarre silk features. These bizarre silk patterns evolved from the viewpoints of Europeans through acceptance stage, compound stage, and confluent stage.