Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지

Couture-like Design in Modern Fashion

현대패션에 나타난 쿠튀르적 디자인

  • 고현진 (건국대학교 디자인학부 의상디자인)
  • Published : 2008.08.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The Purposes of this study are to analyze the couture-like design characteristics expressed in modern fashion and to grasp its sociocultural meaning. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. Fashion writings and visual sources in Gap Pret-a-porter Collection, www.style.com, www.firstviewkorea.com are used. The results are as follows. First, couture ran be featured as a luxurious made-to-order design for individual clients with high quality fabrics, hand-craftsmanship, painstakingly perfect details and finishing. It is valued on authentic originality, uniqueness, aestheticism, and luxury. As the relationship between couture and mass fashion has changed, there appeared not only traditional couture for few privileged people, but also demi-couture which bridges the gap between luxurious couture and pret-a-porter. Second, couture-like designs in modern fashion are classified as (1)the adaption of house archive (2)retro with couture-like silhouette (3)hand-craftsmanship in details and finishing (4)individualization for only one client. They have sociocultural meanings, which are the reaction to the crisis of originality, new luxury for differentiation, the pursuit of new individualism thinking. Ultimately, it ran be thought that couture-like design in modern fashion results from the mutual needs between elitism fashion designer struggling in the hegemony of originality and reproduction, and modern consumer seeking for luxury, individualization.

Keywords

References

  1. 강승희. New Golden Age of Couture(2006.9.14). 자료 검색일 2008.2.20. 자료출처 www.firstviewkorea.com
  2. 유재부 (2006). Haute Couture, -The Ultimate Luxury Market for Fashion. Fashion Insight, p. 7
  3. 김선영, 임영자 (2001). 오뜨꾸뛰르(Haute Couture)작품에 표현된 현대패션의 경향연구. 복식, 51(6)
  4. 김양희, 박선경 (2002). 오뜨꾸뛰르 컬렉션에 나타난 데카당스적 특성연구. 복식, 52(8)
  5. 공미선, 채금석 (2003). Christian Dior 오뜨꾸뛰르의 디자인 오리지날리티. 복식, 53(2)
  6. Georgina O'hara (1986). The Encyclopaedia of Fashion- From 1840 to the 1980s. Thames & Hudson., p. 131
  7. Haute Couture, 자료 검색일 2008. 6.23. 자료 출처 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haute_couture
  8. Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985). Couture-The Great Designers. NY:Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc., p. 16
  9. Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985). Couture-The Great Designers. NY:Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc., p. 10
  10. Grumbach (1994). 우종길(역). 패션의 역사. 창, p. 25
  11. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 21
  12. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 39, p. 397
  13. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 6, p. 10
  14. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 48
  15. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 239
  16. 유재부 (2006). Haute Couture, -The Ultimate Luxury Market for Fashion. Fashion Insight, p. 11-12
  17. 유재부 (2006). Haute Couture, -The Ultimate Luxury Market for Fashion. Fashion Insight, p. 7, p. 193
  18. Diana de Marly (1980). The History of Haute Couture 1850-1950. The Anchor Press Ltd., p. 40, p. 99
  19. Haute Couture. Vogue Italia n.527 (1994). p. 17, p. 31
  20. The Golden Age of Couture-Paris and London 1947-1957. 자료검색일 2008.6.26. 자료출처 www.vam..ac.uk
  21. Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985). Couture-The Great Designers. NY:Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc., p. 24
  22. Haute Couture. Vogue Italia n.527 (1994). p. 54
  23. 유재부 (2006). Haute Couture, -The Ultimate Luxury Market for Fashion. Fashion Insight, p. 181
  24. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 195
  25. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 17
  26. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 5, p. 7
  27. Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985). Couture-The Great Designers. NY:Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc., p. 12
  28. Walker, John A. (1995). Design History and the History of Design, 정진국(역). 디자인의 역사. 도서출판 까치, p. 61
  29. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 192
  30. Agnes Rocamorea (2001). High Fashion and Pop Fashion: The Symbolic Production of Fashion in Le Monde and The Guardian. Fashion Theory-The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture. 5(2), p. 127
  31. Danziger, Pamela (2006). Marketing Luxury to the Masses. 최기철(역). 매스티지 마케팅, p. 52
  32. 김현진. 럭셔리 마켓 읽기(2004.4.23). 자료검색일. 2006.1.14. 자료출처 www.firstviewkorea.com
  33. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 176-177
  34. Silverstein, Michael J. & Fiske, Neil(2005). Trading Up. 보스턴컨설팅 그룹(역). 소비의 새물결 트레이딩 업. 세종서적, p. 22
  35. Zara가 할 수 없는 것(2007.7.19). 자료검색일 2008. 1.14. 자료출처 www.firstviewkorea.com
  36. 유재부 (2006). Haute Couture, -The Ultimate Luxury Market for Fashion. Fashion Insight, p. 191
  37. Pamela Golbin edit (2006). Balenciaga Paris. Thames & Hudson, p. 152, p. 141, www.style.com
  38. 2005-06 Autumn & Winter, Paris, London Collections, 82. Gap Japan Co. Ltd., p. 12
  39. 2007-2008 Autumn & Winter Gap Paris, London Collections, 76. Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 4, www.style.com
  40. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 174
  41. 패션브랜드, 알카이브(Archive)를 남겨라!(1007.8.23). 자료검색일 2008.1.14. 자료출처 www.firstviewkorea.com
  42. 2005 Spring & Summer, Gap Paris, London Collec- tions, 61. Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 5
  43. 2005-06 Autumn & Winter, Gap Paris, London Collections, Vol. 64. Gap Japan Co. Ltd., p. 8, pp. 12-14
  44. 2005-06 Autumn & Winter, Gap Milan New York Collections, 63. Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 34
  45. 2005-06 Autumn & Winter, Gap Paris, London Collections, Vol. 64. Gap Japan Co. Ltd., p. 60
  46. 2008 Autumn & Winter, Paris, London Collections, 82. Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 784
  47. Terry Jones & Susie Rushton (2005). Fashion Now2. Taschen, p. 71
  48. 2005 Spring & Summer, Paris, London Collections, 61, Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 14
  49. 2005 Spring & Summer, Paris, London Collections, 61, Gap Japan Co. Ltd. p. 13
  50. Pauline Weston Thomas. Fashion Trends 2005- Consumer Mood & Luxury Fashion. 자료검색일 2008.6.26. 자료출처 http://www.fashion-era.com/Trends_2005/fashion_trends_2005_4_mood_of_fashion_spring_summer.htm
  51. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 147
  52. www.style.com, www.fashionwindows.com/fashion_review/nyfw/2005S/01.asp, www. chatavectabit. com
  53. Stephen Doig. Topshop's top boy (2007.1.15). 자료검색일 2008.6.26. 자료출처 http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2007-01/070115-topshops-top-boy.aspx
  54. Mari Davis. Demi-Couture On The Rise 1, 2-New fashion movement, Demi-couture makes the richly detailed look of haute couture affordable. 자료 검색일 2008.6.26. 자료 출처 http://www.fashionwindows.com/fashion_review/nyfw/2005S/02.asp
  55. One for Him, One for Her, 자료검색일 2008.6.26. 자료 출처 http://bethlovesbollywood.mobiforumz.com/2008/01/17/one-for-him-one-for-her
  56. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 337
  57. Simona Segre Reinach (2005). China and Italy: Fast Fashion versus Pret a Porter. Towards a New Culture of Fashion. Fashion Theory, 9(1), pp. 43-66. Berg., p. 54 https://doi.org/10.2752/136270405778051527
  58. Nancy J. Troy (2003). Couture Culture - A Study in Modern Art and Fashion. MIT Press, p. 8
  59. Yuniya Kawamura (2005). Fashion-ology. Berg., p. 71
  60. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 149-150
  61. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 117, p. 59
  62. Silverstein, Michael J. & Fiske, Neil(2005). Trading Up. 보스턴컨설팅 그룹(역). 소비의 새물결 트레이딩 업. 세종서적, p. 29-34
  63. 손소진. Harvey Nicoles Demi-Couture(2005.10.10). 자료검색일 2007.7.6. 자료출처 www.firstviewkorea.com
  64. Sarah Perpich. A New Couture (2006.7.10) 자료검색일 2008.6.26 자료출처 http://www.stylishsarah.com/fashion/?p=5
  65. Lipovetsky, Gilles & Roux, Elyette (2004). Le Luxe eternel. 유재명(역). 사치의 문화-신성의 시대에서 상표의 시대로. 문예출판사, p. 58
  66. Demi-Couture:(2005 aw), 자료 검색일 2008.6.26. 자료 출처 http://www.harveynichols.com/output/page391.asp
  67. Caroline Rennolds Milbank (1985). Couture-The Great Designers. NY:Stewart, Tabori & Chang, Inc., p. 17