Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
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A Study on Design Identity of Fashion House - Focused on Saint Laurent House -

패션 하우스의 디자인 정체성 연구 - 생 로랑 하우스를 중심으로 -

  • Hwang, Hyerim (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Incheon National University) ;
  • Park, Eun Kyung (Dept. of Fashion Industry, Incheon National University)
  • 황혜림 (인천대학교 대학원 의류학과) ;
  • 박은경 (인천대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2014.12.08
  • Accepted : 2015.02.09
  • Published : 2015.02.28
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Abstract

This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the $pr\hat{e}t-\grave{a}-porter$ for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.

Keywords

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