• 복식
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• 제53권8호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• 복식
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.109-122
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• 2002

This study is to understand cotton Tyeollik construction of the middle Chosun Period through the reconstruction of tyeoilik which was excavated from lady kim's tomb (from sooncheon). The form of excavated Tyeollik classified into two types by the location of waistline. The structure of excavated tyeollik classified into three types by the construction(one-layer, two-layer, cotton/quilt) The form type change according to the period. The change of the form type has the close relation structure type in the tyeollik. Cotton-tyeollik belongs to the form of the front time. The construction of cotton tyeollik is similar with the one-layer Tyeollik Exception the construction of git(collar) and the size and direction of the fold. The surface pattern is composed of two-pieces but the liner is one-piece in the Git(collar). and In The size of fold surface is o.2-o.3cm, and liner is 0.5-0.8cm. The direction of fold in the liner is the contrast with the surface.

• 복식
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• 제42권
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• pp.223-230
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• 1999

Dressmaking which is defined as the process of changing two-dimensional cloth into three-dime-nsional clothes needs a lot of joining parts. Particularly sleeve needs a more curved surface than other joining parts owing to shape of the top of arms. Easing is used to control the fullness along the seam-line to create the fullness curved shape of the sleeves and it plays an important role in increasing three-dimensional constru-ction power. unfortunately sufficient data regarding effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve are not available. Therefore the author tried to investigate the effective easing conditions to increase three-dimensional construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing construction power of sleeve by cap height. Easing contraction made by different angles on the sleeve cap curve line previous work were examined and the effective easing conditions according to the variation of angles were determined. This study contains the following objectives. Firstly to obtain the easing contraction ratio in sleeve according to the above easing conditions. Secondly to investigate the three-dimensional construction power or sleeve by the factors of easing contraction. Thirdly to determine for each sleeve the effective easing conditions on the basis of the calcuative easing contraction ratio in the sleeve patterns by cap heights.

• 복식
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• 제27권
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• pp.27-40
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• 1996

1.It was recorded at "Dong Gook Tong Gam" of King "Jang Soo" that "Sim-Eui" in Korea was first introduced from China at the reign of King, "Moon Ja"(491,A.D), Go Goo Ryo. 2."Sim-Eui" was worn as a mourning dress during the period of "Go Ryo" and as a concanical robe of Confucian, a ceremonial dress at home and for the rules of etiquettes during Cho Sun Dunasty. 3.Several theories about the construction and the using services of "Sim-Eui" are obseved and summerized. 4.Mr. Kyu-soo Park gives a definition to "Sim-Eui" as a Fortune of Heaven & Earth, the Constellation of the Cosmic Dual Forces, the Revolution of the Four Seasons, a dignified mien & the Way of a Man of Virtue and Virtue of the golden Mean. 5.I observed the concrete measurements of the each parts of "Sim-Eui" by the construction method of Kyu-Soo Park. 6.The Symbolic Meaning following the Idea of Mr. Chung, Hyun. describes well the line of thinking in our nation, and Idea of Loyalty & Filial Piety, a Man of Virtue and the Virtue of the Golden Mean. 7.As described above, I dare insist of the fact that the Construction Theory of "Sim-Eui" by Kyu-Soo Park during the letter period of Chosun Dynasty is full of our national manners and cus-toms with symbolizing meaning, construction's exquisiteness, clothes' materials and it's size most suitable to our people, to the exclusion of the defects in "Sim-Eui" of China and Japan.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권2호
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• pp.207-222
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• 2001

This study investigates the chulik of Soo Buen's, Heymjo Kim's, Sooncheon Kim's grave in early Chosun Dynasty. The purpose of this study is to revise concretely the relation to Mongolian costume, Zilsun and Chulik, of the distintion of sex to wearer. This paper reviews the general construction form the excavated graves of them. This paper finds that there exist different Chulik forms according to the ratios between upper portion and lower portion in Early Chosun Dynasty. Eventhough they were a kind of Mongolian costume, in relation to Zilsun(質孫) and Chulik(帖 ) they are different form each other. They have a lot of pleats coat( 積袍), but they are different clothes, and also, even if Chulik were excavated in womens grave, because their husbands presented them to their wives, Chuliks were not women's, and they were used for men.

• 복식
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• 제64권6호
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• pp.47-64
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• 2014

A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.28-37
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• 1991

Clothing and Textiles was introduced in the 1950s to Korea and has been developed. At this moment, it seems to be valuable to identify state of art of researches in clothing and textiles field. The purpose of the study was to investigate trends of subject-matter emphasis in clothing and textiles. The data were included clothing and textiles related research articles published in three professional journals from 1959 through 1990 and condensed at 5 year intervals. The identified 620 articles with clothing and textiles subject-matter emphasis were categorized in six areas: clothing construction, textiles, history of costume, design and aesthetics, socio-psychological aspect of clothing, and fashion merchandising. The results were as follows: 1. Since 1959, there has been a significant growth in terms of the number of research as well as in quality of research particulary considering the short history of the field. 2. The number of each area research was ranked as follows: 1) textiles (217) 2) history of costume (173) 3) socio-psychological aspect of clothing (88) 4) clothing construction (79) 5) fashion merchandising (34) 6) design and aesthetics (22) and others (7) 3. In the area of textiles, the most dominant area was clothing management (102 out of 217) and clothing hygenics research was getting increased from the late of 1980 through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. 4. In the area of history of costume, most of the research have been published through Journal of Korean Costume Society. History of korean costume was the most dominant area (120 out of 173) and history of eastern costume area was getting increased from the late of 1980s. 5. In the area of socio-psychological clothing, the research was accelated in the beginning of 1980s through Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, while the research was decreased a· little in the late of 1980s. 6. In the area of clothing construction, it was revealed its decrease the percentage of total number of research and most of them were published through Journal of Korean Home Economics. 7. In the area of fashion merchandising, there has been continuous increase in the number of research from the late of 1970s to 1990, present. For the future direction, implications for interdisciplinary and ecological approach were suggested.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.85-100
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• 2006

Fashion related with architectural paradigms includes concept of the space utilization beyond fashions field. Such a fashions concept is able to enlarge as a spatial system like architecture. Interface between fashion and architecture is originated in thinking of the rhizome, which understands fashions field within various relationships between environment of the city and fashion. The existing construction systems of fashion is not sufficient in fashions roles as the space that wearing changing body continuously. Consequently, accommodation of architectural paradigms in fashion depends on new recognition about function and space. Architectural paradigms expressed in fashion since 1990s was classified as follows: 1 modular system of Le Corbusier & Archigram, 2 deconstruction, 3 reconstruction, 4 nomadic architecture. Such a paradigms has been easy to combination among fashion and architecture and furniture. Deconstruction and reconstruction fashion revealed process toward completion, and reappeared architectural consideration about process of change toward incompletion. There are acknowledged formative characteristics as follows: mobility, changeability, multi-function, mutual combinative, openness, and fluidity. This study shows that fashion is essential device determined city environment construction in 21C, and revels that fashion has been highlighted as a presage of new spatial economy received architectural construction systems.