• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.52-63
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• 2010

The Hanryu(韓流) phenomenon in and around Asia looks like slowing down lately. At that time, the research about contents that can inform the high traditional culture of Korea is useful. The references which can make a study about cultural clothes, especially paintings, let us to infer the life of the people of that period. In this research, I try to study the characteristics of customs, symbol and costumes by analyzing the paintings of Shin, Yun-Bok who was genre painter of the late Chosun. The mens are wearing dopo(道袍) and are putting sejodae(細條帶) around their waists and gat(黑笠). Also, We can see many different types of job such police, official man, a buddhist priest, a barmair, kisaeng and shaman through the costume. Most of women in the paintings, They are wearing Deep blue skirts, banhwoejang pale tone jeogori and tress. We discussed the common lives of the people through genre painting. They have satire, humor, and symbolism. Also, we can look into the various lifestyles, customs of times and seasons, ceremonial occasions, civilian beliefs, and plays ransmitted from the past. The philosophy in Shin, Yun- Bok's genre painting, is close to Taoism not Confucianism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.69-87
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• 2002

The Eastern Slavic. the mongolian and the Korean wedding ceremony proceed through those three stages :pre-wedding, and after-wedding. (n the pre-wedding stage, the marriage is arranged when the parents make a decision on a matchmaking proposal. In the main wedding, the bridegroom visits the bride, and the bride walks through the many different procedures, which represent the life and the responsibilities of married women. Expecially, the wedding ceremony is finished and culminated by making hairstyle and wearing of headgear for married woman to the bride. The wedding costume of the Eastern Slav, the Mongolian, and the Korean has been developed with their different characters of styling. The traditional costumes of the each native are worn with the addition of a splendid decorative expression. The Eastern Slavic bride wears Lubaha and Sarapan or a skirt and bridegroom's wedding costume consist with Lubaha and Shitany(trousers). The Mongolian bride wears Deel and Ozh(Ooj) the vest and bridegroom wears Deel and Hantaaz. The Eastern slavic, the mongolian and the Korean bride wears various and gorgous headgears which have reflected cultural values: their traditional views of a wedding ceremony, expected change of social roles for married people. The wedding ceremony of these 3 natives had been performed by the symbolic meaning of the union of the bride to the bridegroom's family.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.122-136
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• 2007

All costumes used for dramatic effect delivers the character's individual data such as sex, age, social position, job, personality, and sense of values in the scene and leads the progress of drama as a media that describes psychological condition and image of the drama etc. symbolically. Therefore, it has a meaning of finding out the importance of film costume, recognizing the traditional culture through the expression and creativity limited to the age in expression, finding out the unique Korean beauty and succeeding it to the future generation. The film is the first costume drama in Korea, which is remake work of Lt;Les Liasions dangereuses, 1782> in the age of the King Jeongjo in Joseon Dynasty. And is comic costume drama that the story goes as a man of the noblest birth debuts as a filthy novel writer. Both films have remarkable grace, elegance and magnificence as having Joseon Dynasty on the background, and treats irregularities and dissipation hidden in the noble society that looks elegance on the surface. There are three aesthetic symbolism in films, naturalism neat beauty, traditionality expressed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to find the aesthetic characteristics of costume design as mise-en-scène in movie 'The Danish Girl'. the methods of this study was carried out prior research, literature studies and qualitative research of visual content analysis by DVD. The spatial and temporal scope of the study is Copenhagen, Denmark from 1926 to 1931, and Paris, France. The styles of the times(1925 ~ 1931) and the spatial sensibilities of women's costumes in terms of form and color were examined thorough out the story. As the results, the costume are based on the 1920's Art Deco style like straight silhouette and some of them are oval soft silhouette. The colors are harmonized or in conflict based on Nordic colors such as blue-green, gray and yellow. Rather than expressing the internal conflict between the two main characters, the costume was focused on the role and character. And also exotic tastes like Japanese and Egyptian textiles patterns and decorations. Therefore, it was found that the movie costume played a role as one of the very important mise-en-scène.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.209-241
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• 2016

"Women's Nong-ak (農樂, Traditional Korean music performed by farmers)" was born together with "Maiden group." This study focuses on the reason why women appeared as principal agents of Nong-ak which was almost exclusive to men previously and especially, on the appearance of women Nong-ak Artists who was previously worked in Traditional Drama Troupe. This study empirically deals with details of activities of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes through newspaper articles. Women Nong-ak Artists enjoyed popularity with their peculiar attractions. Participating in Nong-ak contests and collecting money for their performances, women Nong-ak Artists learned their skills form masters of Woodo Nong-ak and attracted attention with their colorful costumes. Women of Nong-ak circle especially saw through the trend of the time, expanded their arena of activities and exercised flexibility and ability to react quickly to changing situations while mixing with various genres. In particular, young girls were mobilized to show value and marketability of Korean culture as cultural medium who decorated "Pure Nong-ak art stage." They were no different from "Pretty dolls dancing like angels" who could not purse their interest and economic benefit or incite political cause and their patrons were domestic and overseas political figures. Women artists, who put Nong-ak on the stage in the name of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak after the liberation from Japanese colonial rule, contributed to expansion of market base. Women Nong-ak artists, who dominated a century in such troupes as Sadangpae, Hyuprulsa, Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes, Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes and Women Nong-ak troupes, were the very heroines who overturned the conventions of "male predominance (男尊女卑)" which filled Nong-ak arena and cultivated a new tradition of Nong-ak culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.72-88
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• 2011

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.81-96
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• 2006

Fashion is very superficial. However, it is expressed through the culture that is a cause of internal change and therefore its contents are defined by the cultural features. In this study, to study the aesthetic properties of the French fashion, the internal fashion contents are defined according to the cultural characteristics of France and based on the definition, the external features are investigated. The cultural characteristic was analyzed based on the reference literatures on the French culture. Based on the cultural characteristics of France, the aesthetical properties of the contemporary French fashion can be analyzed as follows: ${\cdot}$Dualism is the internal contents of the French culture with multiple sources, and it implies that opposing values such as female and male, traditionalism and modernism, simplicity and decoration are coexisting. Simplicity is pursued but decorative elements are in harmony and new phase of time is reflected while certain style has lasted for a long period of time to become a tradition. Furthermore, a rational trend combining masculinity and femininity, simultaneously exist with a trend that emphasizes feminine image. ${\cdot}$Multiculturism is a mysterious feature that has adapted the oriental or other cultural factors into the forms, patterns, colors and material of costumes. It has also been reconstructed with the French and the modern tastes. ${\cdot}$Avant-gardism is pursuing a novel aesthetic value against the former value system. It recognizes the human body as an object of figurative arts therefore emphasizes the body with geometric shapes to deny the fixed-idea, or engraft new materials and technologies to express the futuristic aspects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.197-211
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• 2016

Loulan was an ancient kingdom located on the northeast of the Taklamakan Desert, a diverging point between the north and south of Silk Road, on the east of the current Turpan, from the 2nd century BC and the 7th century A.D, absorbing and propagating culture of both sides through active trade. Meanwhile, as many previous research investigations suggest the early trade between Korea and the countries bordering on Western China, characteristics of Loulan costume have been found to have similarity to those of ancient Korean costume. Also, it can be compared to costume in other surrounding regions. Therefore, it is a highly valuable region in researching ancient costume. This study examined the historical background of Loulan and its relationship with ancient Korea, analyzed the clothes found in historic sites of Louland and Niya, and compared costume elements of Loulan and those of Korea. The result of the study shows that first, the Loulan Jeogori was based on the Jikryeonggyoim, with Chaksu, narrow sleeves and the length coming between below the chest and above the bottom, and the line decoration and waist belt were very similar to Korean costumes, as well as the Banryeong, curved collar and Bansu, short sleeves. Second, the types of pants included Gunggo, characterized by closed bottom and many creases, and Daegugo, wide-leg trousers, which are very similar in shape to the Korean Shilla lay sculpture, Stele To Martyr Yi Ch'a-don, Yangjikgongdo and Wangheedo. Third, in accessories as well, the Jowu stuck on the Gwanmo is similar in the shapes to Korean costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.165-181
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• 2016

This study looks into the Korean traditional costume formation and the thoughts of the Korean people that form the foundation of that Korean traditional costume formation. And the goal of this study is in linking the thoughts and formative characteristics reflected in the Korean traditional costume formation to the fractal geometry, in an attempt to reveal correlation between Korean traditional costume formation which have existed for thousands of years to contemporary science of the West. The fractal theory that appeared as the new paradigm of contemporary science displayed similarities with the traditional ideologies of Korea, and the fact that formation principles of fractal appear in the formation of Korean costume, formed based on the Korean ideologies, show magnanimous capacity of the traditional Korean culture. When we look at the concept of fractal, the word fractal refers to the structure in which the shape repeats, where small structure is similar to the whole structure in form in endlessly repeating structure. In other words, 'fractal' means a structure that geometrically untangles the concept of 'self-similarity' which possesses the same shape in parts and in whole, and its major characteristics include 'self-similarity', 'circularity' and 'repeatability'. Korean costumes were formed based on the Han-thoughts, with a structure that possesses parts within the whole and the whole within parts, in accordance with the self-similarity theory of 'fractal'. This study compared studied fractal phenomenon which appear in formation characteristics of Korean traditional costume, which were formed based on the Korean traditional ideology, in other words, Korean costume formation and formation principles of fractal geometry were compared studied.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.35-50
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• 2010

In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.