• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Jeogori, Korean jacket, can be categorized into two styles. Traditional style Jeogori is based on conventional construction method for ceremonial or festive occasions. Contemporary casual style Jeogori is based on western style flat pattern making for better fitting and functionality. Traditional style Jeogori is quite flat on human body because it is not considered the grade of shoulder line and is drawn by vertical & horizontal line. This characteristic feature causes weakness in functionality and comfort compared to contemporary casual style. Apparently contemporary casual style has better wearing comfort. Yet to most Koreans, contemporary style Jeogori seems to lack of some characteristic style of its own. This study is to find out how to make Jeogori well balanced in terms of functionality, fit, comfort and traditional style. Currently used Jeogori patterns are compared in order to select the best among them. Onto the selected pattern, several alterations were tried focused on shoulder, armhole and sleeve lines to make optimal modifications. After several comparative fitting tests, the final pattern making method was suggested.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.51-62
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• 2001

This study was intended to investigate the contemporary meaning of transparent design expressed in contemporary fashion by inquiring into its plasticity expressed in contemporary design and fashion and analyzing the association between them. It used the comparative anesthetic method widely used by H. W lfflin and other scholars in eliciting the differences and similarities in styles. It attempted to investigate the plasticity of transparent design expressed in contemporary design by dividing it into the epidermal, spatial and ideological effects. Contemporary design expressed the epidermal effects such as lightness(nimbleness), smoothness, contrast and stress It expressed the spatial effects such as spatial flexibility through the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, expansion of the space and the like. And it expressed ideological effects such as openness, pureness, playfulness and the like. In terms of lightness, contemporary design expressed actual or visual lightness by using transparent materials. In terms of the interpenetration of interior and exterior spaces, it expressed the interpenetration of the interior space into the exterior spaces and vice versa. In terms of spatial expansion, contemporary design expressed the infinite spatial connection by drawing the exterior space into the interior space. Contrast and stress were formed by imposing visual unity on contemporary fashion by using opaque and transparent materials. In terms of openness, contemporary design expressed contemporary people's candor and dependability by making the inside of the building or object look outward. To express pureness, contemporary design used the clear and transparent image by using the glass or translucent materials taking on the pure property. To express playfulness, contemporary made use of the vagueness of the spatial boundary, the locational switching of inner and outer spaces, and interesting external forms occurring when light pass through opaque and transparent materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.133-145
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• 2010

The study used four basic formats classified based on the four principles on costumes discussed in the paper 'Human Beings and Arts Phenomena' by Oskar Schlemmer who studied the relationships between stage space and the human body as an analysis tool with regard to analyses on the abstraction of human body in contemporary dance costume. Abstraction of human body expressed in costume for contemporary dance is as follows: Expansions caused by unclear boundary between spaces and costumes, and the principles of three-dimensional abstract spaces based on a geometric cube change heads, trunks, arms and legs to achieve expansions. Similar mechanical shape is a type of shape made in a succession of functional principles of human body in relationships with spaces. As mechanical mechanism is added to the geometric transformation of a specific part of human body, mechanicalness is contained in it. Motion organisms are geometric simplification of moving traces in a space based on conversion into mechanical organisms based on principles of motion, and as mechanical rotation, consecutive speed caused by refraction and directionality are suggested, mobility is achieved. Immaterial shape is based on change into a metaphysical form, and it is converted into animals, plants or a third life that symbolize body parts. It has metaphysical significance in each body part and extends sensibility. As a result of the study, development into abstract succession and a techno art mode has been confirmed. Combination of geometric cubic figures with the organic human body and configuration of the human body pursued by Oskar Schlemmer's geometric abstraction through the proactive accommodation of mechanical aesthetics has been succeeded and expressed in the contemporary dance costumes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.53-70
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressional traits and meanings of body images in contemporary fashion illustration, based on postmodern body theories and body images in postmodern art. For achieving the purpose, this study performed related research works and undertook a demonstrative analysis of fashion illustrations. The results are as follows : The postmodern body theories not only opposed, deconstructed the traditional concepts and norms of body, but also revealed the suppressed facts of it. Also they composed the new concepts of body. The expressional traits of body images in postmodern art and contemporary fashion illustration were categorized as realistically presented body, distorted/deformed body, fragmented body, abject body, post-gendered body and absent body. Through these traits, the meanings of defiance to authority, revelation of reality, new creation were expressed. In conclusion, the various body images in contemporary fashion illustration reflect open concepts for human beings and give new aesthetic experiences.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.53-68
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• 1999

Water allows us to have artistic experiences of searching for the source of hints and techniques by bring about the emergence of the new representation new themes and new forms of arts. The water that holds a great deal of hidden meaning shape the image. This study attempted to investigate what mental relationship the concept of water had the mental phenomenon of water in hea-sang-kun-sun-do in terms of the event of contemporary fashion in the present-day age. This means the stream of thought to grope a new paradign of multi-cultruism that claims the coexistence of East and West civilizations in the contemporary civilization. The meaning of water is developed fabrics connected with the water and the water emerge the issue in contemporary fashion. And the concept of water as the meaning concept is used as the tool to represent a certain issue in silhouette and fabrics not only the introduction as substantial water into fashion giving the fashion designer's emotion to shape and representing the fashion designer's aesthetic needs by emphasizing with the designer.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.299-308
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to research the heroines' fashion styles in the opera, "La Boh$\`{e}$me." This article studied the representations of the grisettes in 1830's France and the characteristics of the grisettes appeared in the original novel, "Sc$\`{e}$nes de la Vie de Boh$\`{e}$me" and contemporary literatures and paintings. The one of the heroines, Mimi was figured a virtuous female despite poor environments, by contrast Musetta was described as cruel, greedy and vicious female in the opera. But, by analyzing the original novel and the representations of the grisettes in contemporary literatures, this study figured out clearly Mimi and Musetta have same origin and similar aspects, not contrast. Up to the present mimi's costumes were not sophisticated but too simple compared to Musetta's. Also Musetta's costume were too much luxury considering her status. This study proposed a new fashion style considering not only analysis result of the heroins' characteristics but contemporary costume design of the 1830's France.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.7
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• pp.150-169
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• 2012

Contemporary fashion broadens its image in relation with architecture and incorporates architecture in its creative field. The aim of this research is to investigate the characteristics of 'architecture for fashion' in a social context and to verify the collaborative characteristics of post-1990s fashion and architecture. This paper describes architecture as a means of expressing contemporary style and identifies social consequences resulting from this. While high fashion in the early to mid-twentieth century followed a similar trend evident in architecture to directly apply architectural elements into the creativity of the works, high fashion from 1990 extended its creative field by using architecture to symbolically represent its image and style. In line with the possibility for fashion shows to be considered as a performance art, the potential of collaboration between architecture and fashion as an installation with audience participation is discussed. Architecture, for fashion, provides significant grounds for fashion to be recognized as a parallel, independent sphere of art. Contemporary fashion, either by itself or through collaboration with architecture, comprehends space in its zone of creation. The collaborative characteristics of post-1990s fashion and architecture is verified through case studies of the three fashion houses, 'Armani Group', 'PRADA' and 'Comme des Garςcons.'

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.492-507
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• 2020

This study aims to develop fashion designs that combine atlas fabric with the characteristics of Uygur costume to modernize the costume of the Xinjiang Uygur. Research contents and methods are as follows. First, based on previous studies, research analysis was conducted on the cultural background, clothing characteristics, and material of Uygur clothing. Second, based on such research contents, designs combining the characteristics of Uygur costume and atlas fabric were presented. Third, to analyze the utilization of atlas fabric and examine fabric characteristics, material was gathered from collections on domestic and foreign web sites. Through field explorations of local museums in the Xinjiang area, minority group culture was observed in more detail. Based on collection of traditional clothing and analysis of its characteristics, fashion designs that apply contemporary trends were developed. General silhouettes without any restrictions to the waist and decorations made using embroidery were often used. Atlas silk, developed in China using Ikat weaving methods, is an important traditional clothing fabric of the minority group Xinjiang. Based on such data collection analysis, the produced works highlighted traditional ethnic characteristics by extracting classical patterns of atlas fabric, modifying or partially expanding them, combining them with hand knitting, and adding contemporary sensations, thus providing confirmations of the possibility of popularizing classic patterns in more practical manners.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.41-45
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• 1980

We must identify the forms of dress devised throughout ages, when we wtudy, interpret and analyze the numerous resource material of costume. The study which depends on reference to actual artifacts is necessarily limited. Whereas items of contemporary dress are readily available, much from earlier eras has been destroyed or has deteriorated through time. Such as cottons, linens, silks, wools, leathers and furs are perishable organic materials. Few garments dated earlier than seventeenth century has survived except armor, jewelry. We have many sources of the information are available to study on costume of earlier eras. These sources are wall paintings, sculptures, painting, monumental brasses, manuscript illustration ceramics, coins, medals, mosaics, archives, literature. Wall painting and frescoes provided an useful source for costume study. Many wall paintings and frescoes were destroyed, were changed in color. It si advisable to interpret the dress detail, form color carefully. Sculpture would be useful to see the back and side views of dress. One of the most important points which should be made abut the use of sculpture as a source for costume study in early periods is that the sculptor's style will often change the character of a costume. As the painting si two-dimensional evidence for a three-dimensional costume, paintings must be accurately studied. What we must do, as far as we can, is to look at all visual representations in the light of other contemporary evidence in order to interpret the information correctly.