• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.22-30
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• 1989

Wave propagation is changed by the effect of shoaling, current-depth refraction and shelter-ing etc. To solve these problems. numerous models have been developed. In the present study, a coordinate system is proposed based on the wave ray equation with the wave number equation including diffraction effects . The governing equation for the study was derived from the mild slope wave equation in non-steady state, including current effects (Kirby, 1986a) and trans-formed into an orthogonal curvilinear coordinate system on the basis of the wave ray equation. To obtain a numerical solution, an explicit finite difference scheme was used, and solved by the relaxation method. This model was tested for various cases: Firstly a submersed circular shoal and a constant unit depth. Secondly a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope, and finally a breakwater harbour with obliquely incident waves on a slope. The model was found to simulate the experimental results and other theoretical results in wave height and wave angle fairy well, and the applicability of the model around an arbitrary shaped coastal structure was also verified. To demonstrate the general usefullness of the present approach , the model is to be applied to a field situation with a complex bed topography.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.39-44
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• 2009

To improve the accuracy of numerical simulation of wave trans- formation across the surf zone, nonlinear shoaling effect based on Shuto's empirical formula and breaking mechanism are induced in the elliptic modified mild slope equation. The variations of shoaling coefficient with relative depth and deep water wave steepness are successfully reproduced and show good agreements with Shuto's formula. Breaking experiments show larger wave height distributions than linear model due to nonlinear shoaling but breaking mechanism shows a little bit larger damping in 1/20 beach slope experiment.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.216-225
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• 1994

By use of laboratory experiment data set for an elliptic shoal by Berkhoff et al. (1982), both accuracy and Performance tests of numerical results between PCGM (Preconditioned Conjugate Gradient Method) and PA(Parabolic Approximation) are compared. Although both results show good agreement with the experimental data the PA model gives better reproduction of the relatively high amplitudes in the section 4-5 downwave of the shoal, in comparison with the PCGM. The PA model has been proved to be a useful tool for predicting wave transformationsin large shallow water region, but it can be applied only to the case of negligible reflection. On the other hand, there is a need to improve the computational efficiency of the PCGM model which is a finite difference scheme directly derived from the mild slope equation and can handle reflection. By taking the results of th PA model as an input data of the PCGM, the CPU time can be reduced by about 40%.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.619-633
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• 1994

A wave deformation model for general purpose combined refraction, diffraction, and breaking is developed in the shallow water. A parabolic approximation equation considered a higher order diffraction term is derived from the previous mild slope equation. A wave energy dissipation term due to bottom friction and breaking is introduced from the turbulence model. The Crank-Nicoloson implicit scheme is used in the numerical calculation, then the solutions are compared with the various hydraulic experiment data in the circular, the elliptic shoal, and the surf zone. The wave height decay in the surf zone is sensitively affected by the incident wave steepness, and the wave height variation around the elliptic shoal is well explained by the non-linear dispersion relation and the wave energy dissipation term. The model is also applied to a field coastal area and reasonable results are obtained.

• 한국방재학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2010.02a
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• pp.52.1-52.1
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• 2010

본 연구에서는 자유수면 흐름을 해석할 수 있는 연직방향에 대해 좌표변환된 3차원 동수압 모형을 제시하였다. 제시한 모형은 자유수면파 동수압의 해석을 위하여, 2중 예측-수정(double predictor-corrector)방법을 적용하였다. 본 연구에서는 자유수면과 동수압을 고려하기 위하여 자유수면 보정단계와 동수압 보정단계로 나누어 정확한 동역학적 경계조건을 적용하는 방법을 제시하였고, 제시한 모형을 이용한 수치모의 결과를 검증하기 위하여 타원형 천퇴에 의한 파의 변형에 대한 수치모의를 실시하였다. 전반적으로 수치모의 결과는 실험자료와 일치하였다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.134-142
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• 1990

A wide-angle approximation in the parabolic equation method is presented to calculate wave transformation in the shallow water. The parabolic approximation to the mild-slope equation is obtain-ed by the use of a splitting matrix, which leads to a generalized equation in form. A numerical model based on a finite difference scheme is presented and computational results are provided to test the model against the laboratory measurements of circular and elliptical shoals. The numerical results are in good agreement with most of experimental data. Therefore it can be concluded that the model shows greater capability to reproduce the characteristics of waves in the refractive focus.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.260-265
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• 1994

A new set of elliptic wave equations describing the deformations of irregular waves on a large-scale current field in water of irregular depth is given, and using finite difference scheme an efficient numerical method is also presented. The elliptic equations are solved in a similar way to Initial value problem. This method is extensively used for the calculation of wave spectral transformation. and computation results agree very well with experimental data (Hiraishi, 1991). Finally numerical examples are presented concerning the interactions between waves and currents over a mildly sloping beach and also over a mound.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.937-947
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• 2003

A shoreline, which has no the water depth, moves continuously as waves rise up and recede. Therefore, a special boundary treatment is required to track properly the movements of the shoreline in numerical modeling of the behavior of tsunamis or tides near a coastal zone. In this study, convective terms in nonlinear shallow-water equations are discretized explicitly by using a second-order upwind scheme to describe a moving shoreline more accurately. An oscillatory flow motion in a circular paraboloidal basin has been employed to validate the performance of the developed numerical model. Computed results of instantaneous free surface displacements are compared with those of analytical solutions and existing numerical solutions. The run-up heights in the vicinity of a circular island have also been calculated and obtained numerical results have been shown against available laboratory measurements. A good agreement has been observed.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.120-127
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• 1998

An Elliptic model for calculating the combined refraction/diffraction of monochromatic linear waves is developed, including a term which allows for the dissipation of wave energy. Conjugate gradient method is employed as a solution technique. Wave height variations are calculated for localized circular and rectangular dissipation areas. It is shown that the numerical results agree very well with analytical solution in the case of circular damping region. The localized dissipation area creates a shadow region of low wave energy and the recovery of wave height by diffraction occurs very slowly with distance behind the damping region.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.18 no.4 s.59
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• pp.40-45
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• 2004

An efficient numerical model of the modified mild slope equation, based on the robust iterative method is presented. The model developed is verified against other numerical experimental results, related to wave reflection from an arc-shaped bar and wave transformation over a circular shoal. The results show that the modified mild slope equation model is capable of producing accurate results for wave propagation in a region where water depth varies substantially, while the conventional mild slope equation model yeilds large errors, as the mild slope assumption is violated.