• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.71-79
• /
• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.3 s.68
• /
• pp.496-509
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this research is to find out the effect of a chromatic Korean jacket and an achromatic Korean skirt on the visual image of a traditional Korean dress wearer. This experiment was designed to the 3 factors which were composed of 3 colors(red, yellow, green), 4 jacket tones(vivid, light, dull, dark), and 4 skirt colors(N9, N7, N4, N2). The 288 students in Gyeongsang National University assessed the 48 stimuli which wear variously incorporated with colors and tones by a semantic differential scale of 7-point: The results of the study were as follows. Image factors of stimuli are youth and activity, gracefulness, visibility, and tenderness. Among these, youth and activity factors, and gracefulness factors proved to be important. The colors and tones of a jacket and a skirt used in this experiment showed that the colors and tone had an effect on dimension of 4 images by interacting of two valuables or working independently. While a yellow jacket with vivid and a white(N9) skirt had a significant effect on youth and activity factors, a red jacket and a dark- gray(N4), -black(N2) skirt were evaluated as a graceful image. In the red jacket case, a visible factor was considerably different according to skirt tones. Only jacket tones worked as a striking clue in a tenderness factor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.7 no.3
• /
• pp.167-179
• /
• 2005

Skirts hold an important position in dress culture among various dress forms, being worn by more than half of mu. In this study, Chima is defined as garment for lower part of the body without crotch sewing, contrasting with trousers. The authors classify and compare the formation of the skirts of minority races in Yunnan area, based on Korean Chima, understanding the forms of skirts and examining the composition, color, pattern and material. For the study, the authors investigated 57 pieces of skirts among 341 pieces of minority races dresses from Yunn Nationality Museum collection exhibited at Korea Folk Village in May 2003, and referred to customs materials and photos in various literatures. Skirts in Yunnan area are divided into 6 areas, that is, seamless one-piece skirt area, wrapskirt area and mixed type skirt area. Skirt formation factors from the effect of environment such as climate, lifestyle and means of production were studied, and characteristics, differences and similarities were reviewed. Figure of skirts are studied by compostion, color, material, and technique. By composition, they can be classified based on the similarity to Hanbok (traditional Korean dress). By color, worshipped color and preferred color vary by races and by area. Materials vary in kinds and thickness by area with various climate. By technique, national characteristic patterns are inherited through national traditional dyeing and embroidery. It is not easy to conclude based on single item of skirt, but we suggest that national dresses have been settled through the mutual supplements between the effect of social and cultural exchange such as historical inheritance, geological environment, religion and production activity and the various forms of skirts from changes in shape, color, material and wearing form of dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.44 no.11
• /
• pp.171-178
• /
• 2006

Recently more than ever, interest in Korean tradition has been on the increase, with an active movement to follow tradition. There are various merits for expression with the use of Korean paper as a clothing material. The purpose of this study was to assess the aesthetic characteristics of men's shirts fashioned using Korean paper (Hanji). The following conclusions were obtained from an analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of Hanji shirts. First, Hanji has a peculiar texture, with natural characteristics due to the direct use of naturally handcrafted materials. Hanji shirts have the natural beauty of pure Hanji, without artificial treatment or other subsidiary materials, with the exception of thread. Secondly, Hanji shirts with decorative details and trimmings, such as frills, pin tuck, embroidery and spangles, express an ornamental beauty. Thirdly, Hanji shirts with frills or a fringe have real movement when worn and spangles give the illusion of movement due to changes in color or twinkling caused by light giving the beauty of rhythmical motion. Fourthly, Hanji shirts produced using the application of various techniques, such as crumple, painting and dying, express artistic beauty. Fifthly, Hanji shirts can express traditional beauty, even if created whit modem designs, but using traditional materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.6
• /
• pp.63-78
• /
• 2015

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and traditional dress donning practices among Japanese women who immigrated to Korea after marrying Korean men. Quantitative research was conducted on Korean-Japanese multicultural families. Participants were 233 married women who emigrated from Japan to Korea currently living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings were as follows: First, a positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes(HAA) and Kimono transmission attitudes(KTA). Both HAA and KTA had a positive relationship with ethnic identity. 43.3% of the respondents thought that they belonged both to Korean and Japanese ethnicity, 30.5% to Korean ethnicity, and 26.2% to Japanese ethnicity. Similar tendency (64.8% to bicultural identity, 31.3% to Korean, and 3.9% to Japanese) was found in the ethnic orientation towards their children. Both HAA and KTA had no difference in accordance with nationality, education and income level. Second, 70.4% of women had no experience of wearing Hanbok, and 90.1% had no experience of wearing Kimono. The women mostly wore Hanbok and Kimono for social events and family weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.731-742
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this research was to evaluate the harmony of colors of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket. 3 colors of jacket and 6 colors of skirt were combined by 4 kind of colors tone. The Korean women college students and the American women college students (University of Wisconsin-Madison) were selected to evaluate the harmony of colors. It could be supposed that the different evaluation were caused by their different cultural backgrounds. The results of the research can be summarized as follows. When colors were combined with four tone(vivid, light, dull and dark), American students evaluated the same colors of red skirt and red jacket, green skirt and green jacket as harmonized coloration. But Korean students thought they were not harmonized. The yellow colors of jacket and the similar colors of red skirt were evaluated as harmonized by both Korean and American students. They evaluated the green jacket and the red skirt of contrast color as harmonized. The different tone of color caused the different evaluation of harmony of colors by both Korean and American students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.44
• /
• pp.117-129
• /
• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.21 no.8
• /
• pp.1261-1274
• /
• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.77-91
• /
• 1994

The Korean Buddhism has been an effect on the Korean culture from the spipitual culture to the living culture. The Korean Buddhist costume, as an external form of the Buddhist culture, symbolizes the Buddhist ideas, the status difference of the general public, and keeps the traditional structure. The purpose of this study was to examine the monk's costume of Jokye sect and Taego sect among 47 sects,. In this study, it selected Jokye sect and Taego sect, because they are occupying important positions in the Korean Buddhism. The methods of this study depended on the documentary records, existing remains, the wearing clothing, the interviews with monks. In a changeful times, It is needed to study the actual condition of the Buddhist costume and keeps records about it. The results of this study may be stated as follows: The Buddhist costuem is composed of Chogori, Baji, Haengjon(leggins), Durumagi, Jangsam, kasa, hats, rubber shoes, Jori and Gelmang, etc. Chogori, Baji, Haengjon, Durumagi as the everyday dress are found in the Korean traditional costume. The forms and kinds of the everyday dress were the same between two sects, but the colors were different. Jangsam and kasa are the formal robe. In regard to Jangsam, two sects ere dressed in gray. But there were differences of design between two sects. Kasa was different in the forms, patterns, colors, and kinds according to the legal system of the monk and the sects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.18
• /
• pp.97-110
• /
• 1992

West African's traditional looms, weaving and raw materials, structural patterning, dyeing and basic forms of dress were examines in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of West Africa, and to make a contribution to the policy planning for export market developing The research method employed was the analysis f written materials. The study was limited to the traditional clothing habit which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) They have vertical single-heddle loom horizontal or ground single-heddle loom, and double-heddle loom. The width of the cloth produced on the single-heddle loom varies about 38.5cm to 123cm and double-heddle looms all produced on the single-heddle looms all produced narrow strips of cloth varying in width from about 1.3cm to 75cm, although the average is about 10-20cm. (2) Despite the relative simplicity of the llom technology a remarkable variety of textiles are produced. (3) The most popular decorative technique in West African compound weaves is extra-weft patterning which is produced on both single-heddle and double-heddle loom by men and women weavers. Other forms of secondary patterning on textiles in West Africa are dyeing, applique, patchwork and embroidery. (4) Two basic forms of dress have spread throughout West Africa, the poncho (bpibpi) and the wrapper. Some versions of these basic forms are supplemented by western inspired trousers, shirts and blouses coupled with accessories usually complete their traditional outfits. They have a great variety of basic poncho, like as Khasa, Gandura, Tuareg-poncho, Babariga, Rigas (agba-da), Grand-boubou, Afteck, Tagua, buba, Danshike etc. Although West Africa has long been in contact with the peoples of the Nile region as well as the Maghreb and Sahara, both the boubou styles and the wrapper styles appear to have developed with a minimum of outside influence. African Islam was the principal agent for the diffusion of the boubou styles.