Deconstruction' From The Outside Expressed In the Contemporary Costume (Part I) -From 1980's to 1990's-

현대 복식에 나타난 "외부로부터의 해체"현상(제1보) -1980년대부터 1990년대를 중심으로-

  • 김주영 (숙명여자대학교 가정대학 의류학과) ;
  • 양숙희 (숙명여자대학교 가정대학 의류학과)
  • Published : 1997.11.01

Abstract

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.

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