A Study on Traditional Clothing Habit of West Africans

남아프리카 전통 복식문화 고찰 I

  • 황춘섭 (경희대학교 가정대학 의상학과)
  • Published : 1992.05.01

Abstract

West African's traditional looms, weaving and raw materials, structural patterning, dyeing and basic forms of dress were examines in the present study in order to deepen the appreciation of the cultural heritage of West Africa, and to make a contribution to the policy planning for export market developing The research method employed was the analysis f written materials. The study was limited to the traditional clothing habit which is preserved and practicing by them at the present day and the origin and the process of the historical development of those are not included in the scope of the present study. Followings are the results of the study: (1) They have vertical single-heddle loom horizontal or ground single-heddle loom, and double-heddle loom. The width of the cloth produced on the single-heddle loom varies about 38.5cm to 123cm and double-heddle looms all produced on the single-heddle looms all produced narrow strips of cloth varying in width from about 1.3cm to 75cm, although the average is about 10-20cm. (2) Despite the relative simplicity of the llom technology a remarkable variety of textiles are produced. (3) The most popular decorative technique in West African compound weaves is extra-weft patterning which is produced on both single-heddle and double-heddle loom by men and women weavers. Other forms of secondary patterning on textiles in West Africa are dyeing, applique, patchwork and embroidery. (4) Two basic forms of dress have spread throughout West Africa, the poncho (bpibpi) and the wrapper. Some versions of these basic forms are supplemented by western inspired trousers, shirts and blouses coupled with accessories usually complete their traditional outfits. They have a great variety of basic poncho, like as Khasa, Gandura, Tuareg-poncho, Babariga, Rigas (agba-da), Grand-boubou, Afteck, Tagua, buba, Danshike etc. Although West Africa has long been in contact with the peoples of the Nile region as well as the Maghreb and Sahara, both the boubou styles and the wrapper styles appear to have developed with a minimum of outside influence. African Islam was the principal agent for the diffusion of the boubou styles.

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