• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.31-46
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• 2016

This study would inquire into the fashion image and design characteristics of Peng Liyuan, the first lady of China that has a mighty influence on the recent global economy and consumption. For this purpose, first, this study investigated the fashion image of Peng Liyuan according to the role which she performs as a first lady and analyzed how the fashion image appears and changes by year and role type. Second, this study analyzed the design characteristics of Peng Liyuan's fashion image, focusing on the silhouette, fashion items, coordinated items, colors, and textile patterns. The scope of the research was limited to the dresses worn by Peng Liyuan from March 14, 2013 to September 30, 2015. The fashion image of Peng Liyuan changed from classic and elegant image to modern image till 2015, and she reduced ethnic image and emphasized romantic image. In international diplomatic visits, she tried to express the confidence and potential of China through classic, ethnic and modern image, while in formal events of China, she showed an intention to communicate with the Chinese public with soft intimacy through elegant and ethnic images. As design characteristics in her fashion image, she flexibly changed her fashion image by the composition of silhouettes and items, which could cover her mid-life body type and made use of the form and detail of Chinese traditional qipao, appropriate coordination of scarves and brooches, the combination of chromatic color and achromatic color, appropriate uses of textile patterns and the delivery of China's image according to place and purpose. The study of Peng Liyuan's fashion image has significance to understand the fashion trend as a role model of fashion for the Chinese people and can help the domestic fashion industry that aims at the Chinese market in the future by predicting Chinese women' Fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.37-54
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to define the tastes of middle-aged Korean men by analyzing their characteristics, such as self-image, and fashion style. This study was carried out by using the Q methodology for survey research. The results of this study are as follows; First, the self-images of middle-aged men were classified into 'comfortable, calm, neat, and gentle,' 'realistic, active, sociable, and familiar,' 'sensible, emotional, romantic, and rational,' 'refined, emotional, luxurious, and sophisticated,' and 'aggressive, sensible, realistic, and rational.' Second, by analyzing the congruity of clothing form, fashion accessory, and fashion color types, this study was classified into the following 10 fashion styles: 'modern classic,' 'sophisticated,' 'town casual,' 'traditional casual,' 'comfortable,' 'chic casual,' 'contemporary,' 'gentle classic,' 'classic sporty,' and 'soft classic.' Third, this study analyzed the self-images and fashion styles of the men, and produced the following personal tastes of middle-aged men: 'success-oriented,' 'ability possession,' 'internal stability-oriented,' 'freedom-oriented,' 'self-satisfaction,' 'individuality compromise,' 'emotional release,' 'stability-oriented,' 'practicability-oriented,' and 'youth effort' types. By combining those types with social dimensions, this study produced the following tastes of middle-aged men: 'stabilized traditions,' 'achievements with high sociality,' 'youthful individuality,' 'active self-realization,' and 'realistic, logical pursuit.' The results of this study can be used as a meaningful data for developing the marketing strategy, which reflects the middle-aged men's changed tastes.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.105-115
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• 2018

This paper presents an investigation into Cheollik based on 288 records about it at the homepage of The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty on the Internet. Cheollik was called in diverse names and worn by various social classes from kings to common people, but it was solidified as clothes for military officers toward the latter half of Joseon. Not only did it serve the purpose of clothes, but it also was used for a royal grant, diplomacy, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. It served the diplomatic purposes a lot especially during the reign of King Sejo and King Seongjong. Cheollik was usually made of cotton, hemp, silk, and mixed fabric with silk used most. Its major colors include white, green, red, blue, black, purple, grey, and yellow with white used most. The fabrics and colors of Cheollik became simplified toward the latter half of Joseon. Silk was most used in Cheollik for a royal grant, shrouding a corpse, and royal coffin. White was most used in Cheollik for kings' visit to royal tombs or their participation in ancestral rites. There were limitations with the selection of materials according to the social status and situations. It was stipulated that only Sa and Ju were used to make Cheollik for Dangsangguan and Danghaguan. Cheollik made of silk was banned for country residents and merchants. The color of Cheollik for Danghaguan was changed to blue and then red. Of military officers, only those who had a Gonsu title or higher were allowed to wear Cheollik made of silk in various colors. In the end, Cheollik was abolished for its low convenience and efficiency during the rule of King Gojong.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.126-134
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• 2014

This study studied female Hanbok that appeared in Korean movies in different periods, and investigated the changes and flow of the Hanbok in the movies based on the design and the form. Research scope is limited to Hanbok in Korean movies released between 1950' and 1980', and in order to study Hanbok in movies, snapshots of Korean movies for each period are used. Pictures are sourced from the Korean movie database, and forms and colors of Hanbok in the pictures are classified into 7 categories. Based on this, characteristics, changes and flow of Hanbok for each period are studied. Based on this, by investigating the Hanbok in Korean movies from silhouette and design perspectives and comparing each period, it is found that the following changes have been made: From 1950' to 1980', generally Min Jeogori (Normal Korean traditional jacket) had a higher rate. Up to early 1960', wide collar and collar strip were trends, but from 70' to 80', they have been remarkably narrowed. After liberation, ease and functional elements of western clothing were accepted. From 1950' to 80', generally wide and round shape sleeve were used. Also, from 50' to 80', normally skirt and Jeogori had the same color and fabric. Lastly. as Hanbok with western style fabric, rather than traditional Hanbok fabric was increasing, Hanbok with variously patterned fabric was shown. The lack of colored pictures led of limited research materials, and so a more accurate and sophisticated research on material and design was not possible, However, it is meaningful that this study has investigated changes and flow of Hanbok in modern Korean movies.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.121-132
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.73-80
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• 2006

This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.131-145
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.776-792
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• 2023

This study aims to analyze the traditional attire of four ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China: Daur, Ewenki, Oroqen, and Hezhen, considering their natural environment, lifestyles, and cultural influences. A literature review of academic papers, books, and online resources was conducted, along with indirect investigations through artifacts. The Daur people, being equestrian, have garments with deep slits, vibrant colors, and elaborate decorations. The Ewenki people wear clothes made of fabric in the summer and primarily deer skin in the winter, and their clothing is simple and not flashy. The Oroqen people's clothing typically has slits at the front, back, or on both sides, and they wear a waist belt. The Hezhen people, an ethnic group that primarily hunts and fishes, wear two-piece clothing with a hip-length top and pants or other fur-trimmed garments. All groups incorporate symbolic patterns influenced by Shamanism, along with animal headgear and leather shoes. We observed that the traditional costumes of ethnic minority groups in Northeastern China share many commonalities in form, but there are detailed differences in material, shape, color, and decoration due to unique geographical and climatic characteristics as well as differences in livelihood. Additionally, the structure of clothing varies depending on each tribe's shamanistic practices and lifestyle.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.70-85
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• 2024

This study aimed to examine the recent Hanbok school uniform design directions to contribute to the distribution of Hanbok school uniforms and the accumulation of Hanbok-inspired fashion design sources. We reviewed 16 academic papers published on Hanbok school uniform designs from 1998 to 2023 and summarized the design features proposed therein. We also analyzed 172 items of Hanbok school uniform designs developed under the Hanbok school uniform promotion project hosted by the Hanbok Advancement Center between 2019 and 2022. We found that the recent Hanbok school uniform design characteristics conformed to the design directions proposed in previous studies in terms of line, color, fabric, and textile pattern. Conforming design characteristics include the following. Overall, silhouettes were straight and moderately fitting to the body. Detailed straight and curved lines from Hanbok were applied. Designs showed traditional Hanbok colors, including white, black, and navy. Machine washable cotton and various blended fabrics were used. Modernized traditional patterns such as Saekdong, cloud, and Gwae were applied to textile designs. In contrast, some characteristics of recent designs deviated from the proposed design directions. Barrel silhouettes were found in casual styles of uniform items, including sweatshirts, hoodies, and jumpers. A wider range of materials, including fleece, quilted fabric, brocade, and Jinju silk, were used. Uniforms had looser silhouettes and were made with modern washable materials to meet students' preference for casual uniforms.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.115-128
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• 2018

Tibetans who live in the Tibetan highlands, the Roof of the World, have their own unique lifestyle wherein they conform to its long history, natural environment, and their own form of clothing culture. In their costumes, the use of colors, patterns and designs express religious meaning and represent the hopes and heart of life, which respects nature. This study aims to analyze the colors used in Tibetan costumes and examine the meaning of these colors. In addition, this study intends to understand the specificity of Tibetan culture through a consideration of the symbolism of the colors of ethnic costumes. By examining the literature and conducting case studies, colors of Tibetan costumes were analyzed through the I.R.I HUE-TONE system. We analyzed 96 photographs of the costumes photographed during the Tibet ceremony costume, photographs seen at the Qinghai Tibet Culture Museum and photographs from the Internet museum. The results revealed the following: First, the most important element of the costumes is connected to the five colors of JangOsaek, which gives meaning to each color. Red, navy blue, yellow, white and green symbolize fire, the sky, earth, clouds or snow, and grasslands, respectively. Second, Tibetan costumes are characterized by bold color contrasts such as red and green, black and white, red and yellow, and yellow and purple to achieve an intense harmony of colors. Third, these fancy costumes express the unique aesthetics of the Tibetan people. The primary colors follow general emotions, but they can also include their own emotion.