• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.89-100
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• 2016

18세기 제작된 유언호 초상화에 대한 비파괴분석 통해 채색에 사용된 안료의 종류와 채색기법을 추정하였으며, 이를 바탕으로 18세기의 초상화 11점과의 채색특성을 비교해보았다. 유언호 초상에 사용된 안료는 백색에 연백, 황색에 염료, 적색에 진사, 연단, 적색염료, 녹색에 석록, 청색에 석청, 갈색에 적색산화철, 갈색염료, 자주색에 청색과 분홍색의 염료 등을 사용하였다. 11점의 초상화와 채색 안료를 비교한 결과 18세기 초상화에 사용된 안료는 시기별로 큰 차이를 보이지 않았으며, 동일 화첩에 수록된 초상화일지라도 안료의 사용은 초상화마다 개별적으로 나타났다. 채색기법에서는 유언호 초상 이후의 초상에서 얼굴에 진사를 사용하지 않고 산화철만 사용하였으며, 의복의 배채에 녹색 안료 대신 염료를 사용하였다. 본 연구를 통해 18세기 전반에 걸쳐 제작된 초상화의 채색 특성을 확인할 수 있었다. 이번 연구결과가 조선 후기 초상화의 채색기법 연구에 기초자료로 활용되기를 기대해 본다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제37권7호
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• pp.17-27
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• 1999

According to the design method for constructing the Korean Men's Jo-go-ri(the traditional Korean jacket)collar, there are differences in form after its completion. In the construction design of the midsection of the gusset as in that of the basic pattern Jo-go-ri, not only was the positioning of the two sides of the collar not smooth, but also, when the collar strip(Dongjung) was attached, there would be an imbalance on one side or the other so that it was difficult to achieve symmetry. Therefore in this project, by applying the pattern design of the gusset midsection to that of the collar midsection, not only did attaching the collar(Kit) and the collar strip create a visual effect by equalizing the lengths of the two sides, but the construction was also easy. This method of construction introduces the three-dimensional aspect of the human form in its conic, spherical and cylindrical aspects, so that, through schematizing the scientific character of Korea's clothing, its appropriateness is verified. As a matter of fact, since there is no standardization of pattern whether for educational use or for mass-produced clothing, so that even the patterns used in computer-assisted design are executed according to the designer's personal skill, the reality is that after completion of construction the quality has not been uniform. For this schematization, inverse calculation of measurements pertaining to the calculation formula and of teaching materials has been referenced. In particular, the partial regulation of the calculation formula pertaining to the basic pattern construction, the method of making the collar midsection, and the construction method of the extreme and mean ratio adjustment, can be adjusted for all measurements, thereby providing the establishment of a design criterion and the possibility of the standardization of construction methods. The production method for the basic pattern design is as follows: 1) The conic angle for the Jo-go-ri's girth, length end neck width is fixed at 70(72) degree. 2) The radius of the cone is sleeve length. 3) The bust girth calculation formula is B/4 + 2.5 cm. 4) The armhole formula is B/4 + 2.5cm. 5) The neck width formula is B/10. 6) The ratio of the collar junction{width of collar(Kit) + width of collar strip(Dongjung) to the gusset length is 5:8. 7) The length of the side seam is a length intersecting the armhole line and the conic radius of sleeve length, that is an arc that exceeds the length of the Jo-go-ri's midsection.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.194-205
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• 2012

Historically, garments have been spontaneously made with human instinct in order to warm and decorate the body using textiles that have been made and used by various peoples in different cultures. Contemporary garments have been used as a means of warming as well as express individual personality and a desire to pursue beauty. They have a unique formativeness and a symbolic nature according to cultural phenomena that reflect a cultural outcome that expresses contemporary thinking and ideology as well as their aesthetic consciousness. This study globally promotes Chinese opera mask culture and proposes the possibility of creative thinking through the introduction of Chinese opera mask elements into contemporary fashion, expressing them as patchworks. In order to endow artistic value (required in contemporary fashion) this study creates works by analyzing and applying a formative sense seen in patchwork techniques and the characteristics of Chinese opera masks; in addition, it sought the possibility of new expressions in garment designs. The results obtained from the research involve the following. First, the introduction of the traditional patchwork technique to contemporary garments may be a dynamic theme of garment expression and exceed stereotypical ideas that enable the creation of designs attuned to the globalization era. Second, it was possible to pursue independent formativeness which is in harmony with a modern sense through the restructuring of the harmony of colors and practical characteristics found in patchworks. Third, it was possible to demonstrate their artistry and unique effect in the expression of contemporary garments by the expression of the analyzed results of characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks with a patchwork technique in creating works. Results show that it is necessary to conduct research into a patchwork technique that applies diverse materials as a new method to develop contemporary garment design also as a creative design. In addition, if the analyzed results of the characteristic patterns of Chinese opera masks can be expressed with a patchwork technique, they may be able to exhibit a genuine effect along with the artistry of expression in contemporary garments; thereby, relevant follow-up research should be further continued.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권12호
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• pp.1737-1746
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• 2006

본 연구의 목적은 1945년 이전 여성지 표지화에 나타난 실제자료를 발굴 제시하고 이미지를 분석하여 그 시대가 요구하던 미적 이상형을 밝히고자 하는데 있다 이 시기는 근대성 이 성립되기 시작하는 기원의 공간으로 주목받고 있는 동시에 외세의 시선으로 타자화 되고 왜곡된 전통이라는 의심을 받고 있기도 하다. 미적인 이상형은 의복디자인을 통하여 도달하고자 하는 목표이기도 하기에 의류학 연구자들의 지속적인 관심분야이며 그림으로 표현된 인체는 사진의 사실성 보다 더 뚜렷하게 인물의 특성을 강조하여 표현할 수 있다. 따라서 본 연구는 이러한 특성을 확인할 수 있는 국립도서관 귀중본 서고와 잡지정보도서관의 소장 자료 원본86점을 바탕으로 실증적 연구와 문헌연구를 병행하였다. 연구 결과는 다음과 같다. 1920년대 이전에는 외세에 의해 폭력적으로 추진되는 개방에 대한 반감으로 오히려 전통을 고수하려는 경향이 있었다. 1920년대에는 선전 등 전시회에 의하여 그림이 불특정다수에 의하여 감상되는 근대적 문화현상으로 정착되고 일본의 미감에 의한 영향이 뚜렷하게 나타났다. 1930년대에는 서양 영화가 일반 대중들에게 오락으로 자리하게 되고 서구화된 인물을 이상형으로 생각하며 지성미가 미인의 조건으로 요구되기 시작하였다. 1940년대에는 37년부터 심화된 전쟁과 물자부족으로 모성과 건강한 자연미를 의도적으로 권장하였으며 이에 대한 반발로 의고미(疑古美)가 대두되었다.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권3호
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• pp.345-352
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• 2016

연구는 부산 오륜대 한국순교자박물관에 소장되어있는 "국긔복소션"과 "법복졀복"의 직의(織衣) 즉, 표지직물 및 이를 보관하는 첩갑을 구성하고 있는 직물에 관한 분석적 연구이다. 본 유물은 조선 제24대 왕인 헌종(재위 1834~1849)의 후궁인 경빈 김씨(1831-1907)가 작성한 것으로 추정된다. 첩갑과 2권의 필첩의 표지는 모두 적외분광 분석 결과, 견직물에 의해 배첩이 되어있으며 첩갑의 표지는 화문직은단(花紋織銀緞)으로 되어있고 두 필첩의 겉표지는 초록색과 적색의 수자편복문단이다. 첩갑의 금속사 부분은 에너지분산형 분광분석으로 분석한 결과 은이 산화한 것임을 확인할 수 있었다. 한편 염료분석 결과, 적색인 "법복졀복"의 표지직물에서는 berberine, brazilin, carthamin 등이 검출되어 황벽, 소목, 홍화 등에 의해 복합염색이 된 것으로 추정되며 첩갑의 색사들을 분석한 결과에서는 첩갑의 황색섬유에서 rutin이 검출되어 괴화에 의한 염색으로 추정된다.

• 복식
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• 제31권
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• pp.145-164
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• 1997

Cinema costume can stimulate the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies . Especially when the public thinks the stars in the movies are beautiful or dramatic the styles of cinema costumes powerfully affect them. Thus cinema costume designers quickey become fashion designers. Edith Head who strongly believed cinema costumes to be an effective means of portraying the Character's personality and psychological make-up was an innovative designer whose costumes manifested this belief. She enhanced the character's individual image and distinction for the public through her artistic design in costumes. She adapted a realistic approach but her costumes invariably produced aesthetic ef-fects. Since the Academy Awards added the category of costume design she led the field with 35 nominations and eight oscars during 33 years of her productive work. Edith head was a dominant figure in costume design; her creations were highly renowned as an art form while they gained popularity. The purpose of this study was to reveal the ef-fects of Edith Head's cinema costume designs on fashion. This study was also to emphasize the powerful influence on ashion of cinema costume and cinema costume designers in general. The study was done through literature movies for which she created costumes fashion magazines and Edith Head's original sketches. The influence of Edith Head's costume de-sign on fashion is as follows: 1. She introduced and lead the casual fashion in the 1950's combining simplicity and sophistication. 2. She altered uniforms and reconstructed public clothing for multiple functions. 3. She rearranged high school prom dresses through the movie 'A Place in the Sun" to en-hance characteristic of each gender and the Dandy Look of the 1930's into men's apparel in the 1970's through the movie "The Sting" 4. She expanded the traditional style in the 1940's and became a leader in ecological style. 5. She adapted glitter from astronaut's ap-parel into public clothing. 6. She resturctured Sabrina Pants in the 1960's to accentuate the individuals strength by overcoming one's weakness without minimi-zing it's aesthetic appeal and reintroduced the pants in the 1990's. 7. She introduced elegant negligees to gen-eral public and maintained it in the public do-main. As it is revealed Edith Head's costume de-sign not only impacted the field of fashion dur-ing her time but also is presently influencing modern fashion throughout the world as it is witnessed by repeated reintroduction of her fashion styles. Reviewing her cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes it is concluded that cinema costumes powerfully af-fect the public through a visual channel more than any other routes. Cinema costumes can become the origin of fashion by stimulating the public to synchronize with and replicate what they see in the movies. Since cinema costumes can launch fashion trend it requires further research. Based on what is revealed in this study. it would be beneficial to examine how cinema costumes affect people socially and culturally and how they could provide resources for re-search in fashion trends. It is also the writers opinion that there should be more designers such as Edith head who could lead the field of costume design into the twenty-first century.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.103-113
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• 2002

Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권11호
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• pp.492-501
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• 2013

본 연구는 일본 학생들이 필수로 이수하는 과목 중 한국문화에 관한 내용이 가장 많이 언급되는 초등학교 6학년 '사회'와 중학교 '지리'교과서를 대상으로 1980년대부터 현재까지 30여 년간의 한국문화에 관한 서술변화를 고찰하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 이를 위해 교과서별 한국문화 콘텐츠를 기본적 요소, 독창적 요소, 시대반영적 요소로 분류하고 각각의 요소를 전통과 현대, 표층과 심층으로 재분류하여 각 유형별 등장양상을 살펴보았다. 일본 교과서에는 한복, 김치, 온돌, 고층아파트, 식사예절과 같은 의 식 주를 비롯하여, 수도 서울의 모습과 같은 표층적 기본적 문화요소가 가장 많이 나타나고 있다. 또한, 시기와 상관없이 항상 등장하고 있는 내용은 한국의 의 식 주 문화와 같은 기본적 문화요소가 대부분이다. 시대반영적 요소인 서울올림픽, 한일월드컵, 한류 등도 해당 시기 교과서에 충실히 서술되고 있다. 한국문화 콘텐츠는 2010년대로 올수록 내용과 범위가 확대되는 현상도 나타나고 있다. 또한 이들 콘텐츠의 표현방법도 최근 교과서로 올수록 보다 구체적인 설명 및 시각자료들이 제시되고 있다.

• 복식
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• 제62권7호
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• pp.13-28
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• 2012

This study examines history of Korean peony patterns and characteristics of peony patterns on the fabric. It is classified according to expression methods, and it analyzes the characteristics of 71 kinds of peony woven on 66 Korean fabrics. First, it was observed that 38 of the 66 studied fabrics (57.6%) were relics from the 17th century, and from this it can be deduced that the peony patterns began to appear regularly around the latter half of the 16th century and were used habitually in the 17th century. Second, 71 kinds on 66 fabrics can be divided into Real Type, Design Type, and Abstraction Type according to expression methods. Among these types, 49 kinds of them are Real Types (69.0%), forming the greatest part and 19 kinds belonging to the Design Type (26.8%), and lastly, 3 kinds were under the Abstraction Type (4.2%). In particular, peony patterns of Design Types and Abstraction Types from the 17th century and from the 19th century to the 20th century were more prevalent, compared with those before the 16th century or the 18th century. Third, Real Types shown on the Korean fabrics are subdivided into 9 types, and the Real Type A among them, which describes to be as real as possible, is 12 kinds, the largest number of them. Therefore, real and natural pattern of peony is the favorite type in Korea, while rather emphasized pattern of peony is the more preferred pattern in China. And also Design Types are subdivided into 6 types again; There are 6 kinds of design type A, the largest part of Design Types. Patterns of Design Type A are most similar to real peony flowers, but more simplified than the Real Type A. This result also contrasted with the trend in China, where the Design Type C, expressed petals in detail was the favored pattern. Fourth, 9 kinds of unique types are found in Korean fabrics, especially Real Type M has not been shown on Chinese fabrics. Real type M, consisting of two parts, inner and outer, where two curve lines between two parts appear as antennas of a butterfly.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2012

출토복식은 조선시대 복식문화를 알 수 있는 중요한 자료들이다. 그 중에서도 염직물들은 복식의 문화사적 연구뿐만 아니라 보존과학적 연구 및 유물복원을 위해 꼭 필요한 자료들이다. 그러나 매장환경에서 오랜 기간 동안 영향을 받으면서 색은 변퇴색되었으며 발굴 후에도 점차 퇴색되어가므로 본래의 색을 추정하기가 어렵다. 이에 본 연구에서는 적색, 황색, 자색, 청색의 천연염색포 표준시료를 제작하여 고속액체크로마토그래피(High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Photodiode Array Detector, 이하 HPLC-PDA)에 의해 분석하고, 같은 방법으로 출토염직물에 남아있는 색소를 추출하여 분석함으로써 출토직물의 염료분석을 시행하였으며 당시의 색을 추정하기 위해 전자현미경(Scanning electron microscope 이하 SEM)에 연결된 에너지 분산형 원소분석장치(Energy Dispersive X-ray Spectroscopy 이하 EDX)를 이용하여 매염제 분석을 시행하였다. 본 실험을 위해 16~17세기 출토직물편으로 대전시 송천동 출토 은진송씨 송문창 출토직물 2점과 대전시 목달동 출토 여산송씨 송희종 출토직물 1점 등 3점을 사용하였으며, 분석결과 alizarin, purpurin, indigo, ellagic acid 등의 색소가 검출되어 꼭두서니-쪽의 중복염색, 꼭두서니 염색, 석류-쪽의 중복염색 등의 결과를 얻을 수 있었으며 매염제로는 모든 유물에서 Al이 검출되었다.