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Analysis on the Textile and Dye Used for the Book Cover and Slipcase Housed in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum

오륜대 한국순교자박물관 소장 필첩 및 첩갑에 사용된 직물 및 염료분석

  • 백영미 (부산대학교 한국전통복식연구소) ;
  • 하신혜 (오륜대 한국순교자박물관) ;
  • 배선영 (오륜대 한국순교자박물관) ;
  • 이정은 (부산대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 권영숙 (부산대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2016.08.05
  • Accepted : 2016.09.13
  • Published : 2016.09.20

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the textile used for book covers of "Gukgiboksiksoseon" and "Boepboksajeolboksaek", and slipcase of these books kept in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum in Busan. These records are estimated to be written by Gyeongbin Kim(1831-1907), who was a royal concubine of 24th King Heonjong (reign 1834~1849) of the Joseon Dynasty. The cover textile of slipcase and two books are investigated to be silks by the FT-IR. The cover textile of slipcase is flower patterned satin with silver thread and the cover textile of two books are green and red with Su characters and bat patterned satin. The blackish part of pattern of slipcase is investigated by silver thread by FE-SEM-EDAX. Moreover, by the dye analysis, berberine, brazilin, and carthamin are detected from the cover textile of "Boepboksajeolboksaek". It is indicated that it was dyed with an amur cork-tree, a sappanwood, and a safflower. And rutin which is the main dyestuff of the sophora flower of the pagoda tree was detected from the yellow thread of the cover textile of slipcase.

연구는 부산 오륜대 한국순교자박물관에 소장되어있는 "국긔복소션"과 "법복졀복"의 직의(織衣) 즉, 표지직물 및 이를 보관하는 첩갑을 구성하고 있는 직물에 관한 분석적 연구이다. 본 유물은 조선 제24대 왕인 헌종(재위 1834~1849)의 후궁인 경빈 김씨(1831-1907)가 작성한 것으로 추정된다. 첩갑과 2권의 필첩의 표지는 모두 적외분광 분석 결과, 견직물에 의해 배첩이 되어있으며 첩갑의 표지는 화문직은단(花紋織銀緞)으로 되어있고 두 필첩의 겉표지는 초록색과 적색의 수자편복문단이다. 첩갑의 금속사 부분은 에너지분산형 분광분석으로 분석한 결과 은이 산화한 것임을 확인할 수 있었다. 한편 염료분석 결과, 적색인 "법복졀복"의 표지직물에서는 berberine, brazilin, carthamin 등이 검출되어 황벽, 소목, 홍화 등에 의해 복합염색이 된 것으로 추정되며 첩갑의 색사들을 분석한 결과에서는 첩갑의 황색섬유에서 rutin이 검출되어 괴화에 의한 염색으로 추정된다.

Keywords

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