• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.115-128
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• 2018

Tibetans who live in the Tibetan highlands, the Roof of the World, have their own unique lifestyle wherein they conform to its long history, natural environment, and their own form of clothing culture. In their costumes, the use of colors, patterns and designs express religious meaning and represent the hopes and heart of life, which respects nature. This study aims to analyze the colors used in Tibetan costumes and examine the meaning of these colors. In addition, this study intends to understand the specificity of Tibetan culture through a consideration of the symbolism of the colors of ethnic costumes. By examining the literature and conducting case studies, colors of Tibetan costumes were analyzed through the I.R.I HUE-TONE system. We analyzed 96 photographs of the costumes photographed during the Tibet ceremony costume, photographs seen at the Qinghai Tibet Culture Museum and photographs from the Internet museum. The results revealed the following: First, the most important element of the costumes is connected to the five colors of JangOsaek, which gives meaning to each color. Red, navy blue, yellow, white and green symbolize fire, the sky, earth, clouds or snow, and grasslands, respectively. Second, Tibetan costumes are characterized by bold color contrasts such as red and green, black and white, red and yellow, and yellow and purple to achieve an intense harmony of colors. Third, these fancy costumes express the unique aesthetics of the Tibetan people. The primary colors follow general emotions, but they can also include their own emotion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.132-150
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to study the forms and styles of the costumes in the Peking Opera of China and to figure out the symbolism and aesthetic value of the costumes. The research was done using documentary Peking Opera, the costumes can be seen as a special kind of language which audience members can clearly understand it. Therefore, the spectators can understand instantly the sex, age, personality, and position of the character by seeing the style, color, and patterns of the costumes. As a result, one can call the costumes of Peking Opera, "picturizing costumes". The typical costumes are mangpao, pi, kao, xiezi, yi. Mangpao is the ceremonial robe often used by emperors and officials. It can be worn by lao sheng, xiao sheng and wu sheng. Bright yellow and apricot yellow colors are used exclusively by those who play the parts of emperors, foreign rulers, princes and the Monkey King. The next costume style to be discussed is Pi. Pi is the informal dress for the emperor, and young officials that are involved in civilian or military duties. The third costume style to be explored is Kao: the garment that a stage warrior wears when going into battle. This warrior can have three kinds of armor: the hard armor, the soft armor and the newly revised armor. Fourthly, the costume that is the most commonly worn, xiezi, is examined; it is the informal coat for every one regardless of one's age, sex, role, or level of nobility. Finally, the last of the typical costumes is Yi; this costume category includes numerous kinds of costumes, such as kaichang, baguaiyi, fayi, guanyi, yulinjia, kanjian, toupeng, jianyi, etc

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.275-286
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of costume and its ornaments which are appeared in the traditional wedding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav, that is consisted of Russian, Belarusian and Ukrainian from the 19 to the early of 20C. In this study, many different procedures of wedding ceremony with a various kind of wedding costumes are shown. A wedding custom of Eastern Slav had been developed by a intermixed style of the Christianism and a paganism. The wedding custom is organized by the 3 sequential procedures; before a wedding, a wedding, after a wedding Their wedding means the union of the bride into the bridegrooms family in order to establish a new family. Therefore, the wedding costumes have been developed according to this, and the head gears have developed as a symbol which presents the meaning. A brides costume is composed of a head gear, \"Lubaha\", and \"Sarafan\" or a skirt. A bridegrooms one is made up of \"Lubaha\", and trousers. These costumes are kept through their whole life, and are worn in every important ceremonial period. Even though, the wedding customs and the wedding costumes of Russia, Belarus, and Ukrain have been developed by their general commonness, there are regionally certain differences. It is one of the important research object of the Eurasian era in the view point of culture and ethnographic, that to know the symbolism appeared in the traditional weeding ceremonial customs and the wedding costumes of Eastern Slav.ding costumes of Eastern Slav.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.1031-1047
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• 2010

This study examines the conceptual characteristics of fantasy movies. It also studies the process of socio-cultural changes of the mythical images such as heroes, goddesses and the devil that have often become the centre of fantasy movie characters. This study further examines the features of each character that correspond to specific mythical images. The purpose of this research is to suggest the conceptual and aesthetic characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies, which were released since the year 2000. The followings are the results of the research: The conceptual characteristics of fantasy reflected in the characters and the costumes of fantasy movies are summarized as representation of reality, allegory and symbols, horror, desire, deconstruction and metamorphosis, otherness and counter-cultural sentiments. The aesthetic characteristics of the costumes of fantasy movies are defined as typicality and symbolism, grotesqueness, sensuality, hybridization, and otherness. These characteristics are very interconnected. The costumes of heroic characters appearing in fantasy movies show strong side of standard while the costumes of the evil characters revealed the limit of dualistic point of worldview centered on West. Heroic characters show realistic and human side that reflects the ethos of the time. Negative characters such as the devil or witches, which were created in human imagination and emotion, become the dynamic force of fantasy movies through their deviant actions. Their clothes, with variety and hybridization, become the source of creativity expected in present society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.14
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• pp.167-183
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• 1990

As an attempt to view Chason costume from a aesthetic perspective, the aesthetic values of the Choson people, as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics of costumes, are pursued in this study. To appreciate the beauty of the traditional Korean costume, the following aesthetic characteristics of Choson costumes are investigated: form, color, pattern, material and ornament. From the view point of aesthetics, this study shows that Choson costume had comfortable and voluminous forms with beautiful curved lines and rhythm. The most favored colors were white and natural colors of materials. However unusual combination of colors such as the contrast of black and white, the harmony of the primary and rainbow colors were often used. Patterns revealed two aspects : while subdued patterns generally prevail, at times the unexpected beauty of primary colored patterns draws our attention. Smooth natural materials were preferred. Ornaments both for practical and decorative purposes were used together with certain colors and patterens, indicating wearer's status and warding off the evil's spirits. The aesthetic values in costumes as expressed through the aesthetic characteristics can be classified into the following categories: the beauty of nature, the beauty of personality, the aesthetics of evil's eye and the beauty of tradition. The beauty of nature, as appreciated by the Chason people through their prevailing nature, the "Pung-rew Spirit" and through their Worship of Heaven, produced aesthetic characteristics in harmony with nature. The beauty of personality influenced by the ethical standard of Confucianism produced aesthetic characteristics in costumes, through which the appropriate personality was shown for the appropriate social status. On the other hand, the aesthetics of evil's eye, rooted deeply in Folk religion and Shamanism, contributed to various aesthetic characteristics, which strongly inclined to sorcery and symbolism through choice of patterns, colors and ornaments. Finally, the beauty of tradition, which was based on the ethics of Confucianism and the Choson people's conservative tendencies, demonstrated the strong tendency to adhere to the external characteristics of the Choson costume. These aesthetic values were the yardsticks of the aesthetic judgment of the Choson people. These values influenced Chason people in designing costumes and in appreciating the beauty of costumes. The aesthetic experience and attitudes of the Chason people, which were based on these aesthetic values, represented their aesthetic consciousness and desires.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.1-10
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to analyze domestic research trends in film costumes and to suggest future research directions. 122 articles published in 17 KCI journals from 1996 to Oct. 2013 were classified by year, journal, research method, film genre, country of film-making, analyzed subject, and contents of research. Film costume-related research was initiated in 1996 and the largest number of articles were reported in 2005~2009. Many of these researches were reported in Journal of the Korean Society Costume. Most film costume-related researches were qualitative based on co-analysis of literature and film. Film analysis was done on melodrama genre and was done Korean or American film. Large portion of the research was on costume analysis. Film costume-related research was mostly focused on character's plasticity and symbolism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.7
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• pp.122-136
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• 2007

All costumes used for dramatic effect delivers the character's individual data such as sex, age, social position, job, personality, and sense of values in the scene and leads the progress of drama as a media that describes psychological condition and image of the drama etc. symbolically. Therefore, it has a meaning of finding out the importance of film costume, recognizing the traditional culture through the expression and creativity limited to the age in expression, finding out the unique Korean beauty and succeeding it to the future generation. The film is the first costume drama in Korea, which is remake work of Lt;Les Liasions dangereuses, 1782> in the age of the King Jeongjo in Joseon Dynasty. And is comic costume drama that the story goes as a man of the noblest birth debuts as a filthy novel writer. Both films have remarkable grace, elegance and magnificence as having Joseon Dynasty on the background, and treats irregularities and dissipation hidden in the noble society that looks elegance on the surface. There are three aesthetic symbolism in films, naturalism neat beauty, traditionality expressed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.132-149
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to establish the theoretical view for the analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics. Also, this study examined the universality and particularity of aesthetic characteristics in Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes. To establish the theoretical view for the aesthetic analysis of dress from the viewpoint of oriental aesthetics, this study examined the relationship between the internal spirit of human, culture and the external form of dress. Based on this consideration, the viewpoints for the analysis of dress formation were the 'Form' as the basic structure of the external formation of dress and 'the Ornamentation' as the emphasis of the artistic characteristics of dress. The common world view shared by Korea and Japan holds the thinking system that everything is created from 'not to bee(無)' to 'being(有)'. This view emphasizes the totality and circulation of energy called 'Ki(氣)'. According to this view, oriental culture has been developed by intuition and pleasure called 'Heung(興)'. Therefore, the form of the oriental culture includes ambiguity and emphasizes the total harmony. These characteristics appeared in dress as the design of ambiguity, asymmetry and concealment. The meaning of the ornamentation in oriental world was the unified harmony of diversity and the colors and patterns of oriental dress were used by the symbolic meaning of Yin-Yang & Wu-Shing (陰陽五行)s principles. On the basis of the world view of the Ki, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes commonly shared the aesthetic values of concealment, emptiness, and symbolism. Also, their costumes expressed the difference, especially in the ornamentation. Korean costume expressed the beauty of simplicity and naivety, and Japanese costume expressed the beauty of ornamentation and nonornamentatIon.