Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.30
no.8
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pp.1288-1300
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2006
Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.
This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.
The Journal of Korean Institute of Communications and Information Sciences
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v.17
no.11
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pp.1175-1184
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1992
A new classification method and recognition algorithms for printed Korean and Chinese character is studied for Korean text which contains both Korean and Chinese characters. The proposed method utilizes structural features of the vertical and horizontal vowel in Korean character. Korean characters are classified into 6 groups. Vowel and consonant are separated by means of different vowel extraction methods applied to each group. Time consuming thinning process is excluded. A modified crossing distance feature is measured to recognize extracted consonant. For Chinese character, an average of stroke crossing number is calculated on every characters, which allows the characters to be classified into several groups. A recognition process is then followed in terms of the stroke crossing number and the black dot rate of character. Classification between Korean and Chinese character was at the rate of 90.5%, and classification rate of Ming-style 2512 Korean characters was 90.0%. The recognition algorithm was applied on 1278 characters. The recognition rate was 92.2%. The densest class after classification of 4585 Chinese characters was found to contain only 124 characters, only 1/40 of total numbers. The recognition rate was 89.2%.
In this paper, we introduce 'Contents Based Image Retrieval' which helps a user find the images he or she needs more easily and reconfigures the images automatically. With this system, we try to realize the language of (motion) picture, that is, the Montage from the viewpoint of the user. The Real-time Montage System introduced in this paper uses 'Discrete Fourier Transform'. Through this, the user can find the feature of the image selected and compare the analogousness with the image in the database. This kind of system leads to the user's speedy and effective retrieving, Also, we can acquire the movement image of the user by Camera Tracking in Real-time. The movement image acquired is to be reconfigured automatically with the image of the user. In this way, we can get an easy and speedy image reconfiguration which sets to the user's intention. This system is a New Media Design tool(entertainment) which induces a user enjoy participating in it. In this system, Thus, the user is not just a passive consumer of one-way image channels but an active subject of image reproduction in this system. It is expected to be a foundation for a new style of user-centered movie (media based entertainment).
Although RDF ontologies might be expressed in XML tree model, existing methods for protection of XML documents are not suitable for securing RDF ontologies. The graph style and inference feature of RDF demands a new security model development. Driven by this goal, this paper proposes a new query-oriented model for the RDF ontology access control. The proposed model rewrites a user query using a three-layered ontology view. The proposal resolves the problem that the existing approaches should generate inference models depending on inference rules. Accessible ontology concepts and instances which a user can visit are defined as ontology views, and the inference view defined for controling an inference query enables a controlled inference capability for the user. This paper defines the three-layered view and describes algorithms for query rewriting according to the views. An implemented prototype with its system architecture is shown. Finally, the experiment and comparative evaluation result of the proposal and the previous approach is described.
From 1949 to 1966, after the new China was established, in order to consolidate newborn regime and erect national image, "proletariat revolutionary education" had become the main way of literary and artistic creation in the new era. In this era, Chinese animation began to produce to form the characteristics of emphasizing the ideological expression and political education from 1949 to1966, but it also made people misunderstand that it was the results of comprehensive containment of Soviet literary thoughts and creative models. In fact, Regardless of the subject matter, narrative, and role, Chinese animations have inherited and developed the ideological characteristics of the "Mun-yi-jae-do" literary view, forming a creative style that is different from the Soviet "dogmatism." The characteristics of "revolutionary hero role", "mythological expression of revolutionary thought" and "unique storytelling narrative mode" in Chinese animation from 1949 to 1966 were the inheritance and development of the "hero role", "mythological story", and "art of storytelling" of the important expression means of traditional art creation after the establishment of the "Mun-yi-jae-do".
Cifu(辭賦) is a style that has been pointed out to many people because of Shin Heum Family's literary skills. I focused on this point and outlined Shin Heum Family's Cifu, and searched the literary through the works in which Guiqulai(歸去來) consciousness appeared. Shin Heum and his family members wrote many Cifu works, which were mainly in the form of Gufu(古賦). And many of them revealed personal emotions, such as melancholy. Especially they formed Guiqulai consciousness by taking personal suffering as their nourishments, and it was expressed in Cifu. The feature of Shin Heum Family's Cifu works is that the shape of Guiqulai consciousness is remarkable. There was a political ordeals on the base of such a consciousness. It was literally shaped through various methods.
This study examined the production technique of bracket murals in Daeungjeon Hall, Gaeamsa Temple by conducting a analysis of their wall structure, material characteristics, and painting layers. Wall was a single-branch structure with support layer, middle layer, finishing layer, and painting layer. The support layer, middle layer and finishing layer, were produced by mixing sand (quartz, feldspars etc.), and loess. The ratio of above medium sand to below fine sand was approximately 0.7 : 9.3 in the support layer, 4 : 6 in the middle layer and 6 : 4 in the finishing layer, which had a more percentage of above medium sand than the support layer. The analysis of the painting layer showed that natural soil pigment was used to establish a relatively ground layer of up to 50 ㎛, and pigments such as Lead sulfate, atacamite and mercury sulfide were painted on top of the layer. This study's results confirmed that the bracket mural paintings in Gaeamsa Temple are within the category of the production style of murals during the Joseon period. However, the points that the middle layer was formed several times, the significant difference in particle size distribution between the wall, and the absence of chopped straw in the support layer are a feature of bracket mural paintings in Gaeamsa Temple. These properties of murals as material and structure may be viewed for correlation with the degree of damage to wall structure of mural painting and would serve as an important reference to diagnosis the conservation conditions of murals or prepare conservation treatments.
Around the turn of 21st century, there has been a major technological shift in the animation industry. With development of reality-based computer graphics, major American animation studios replaced hand-drawn method with the new 3D computer graphics. Traditional animation was known for its simplified shapes such as circles and triangle that makes characters' movements distinctive from non-animated feature films. Computer-generated animation has largely replaced it, but is under continuous criticism that automated movements and reality-like graphics devaluate the aesthetics of animation. Although hand-drawn animation is still produced, 3D computer graphics have taken commercial lead and there has been many changes to acting of animated characters, which calls for detailed investigation. Firstly, the changes in acting of 3D characters can be traced from looking at human-like rigging method that mimics humanistic moving mechanism. Also, if hair and clothing was part of hand-drawn characters' acting, it has now been hidden inside mathematical simulation of 3D graphics, leaving only the body to be used in acting. Secondly, looking at "Stretch and Squash" method, which represents the distinctive movements of animation, through the lens of media, a paradox arises. Hand-drawn animation are produced frame-by-frame, and a subtle change would make animated frames shiver. This slight shivering acts as an aesthetic distinction of animated feature films, but can also require exaggerated movements to hide the shivering. On the contrary, acting of 3D animation make use of calculated movements that may seem exaggerated compared to human acting, but seem much more moderate and static compared to hand-drawn acting. Moreover, 3D computer graphics add the third dimension that allows more intuitive movements - maybe animators no longer need fine drawing skills; what they now need is directing skills to animate characters in 3D space intuitively. On the assumption that technological advancement and change of artistic expressionism are inseparable, this paper compares acting of 3D animation studio Pixar and classical drawing studio Disney to investigate character acting style and movements.
This paper is a preliminary study of architectural characteristics of Jangdae (general's podium), which shows one of the technical changes in fortification of Joseon Dynasty. As a facility for commands of generals and training for officers and men, it was located inside a fortress. Although it is not certain when the first Jangdae was built, the number of them dramatically increased around 18th century. Since the top priority function of the Jangdae was the prospect, it was installed at the hilly spot with open architecture. In addition, the open structure of Eupseong fortress towers on the riverside banks could simultaneously offer the functions as viewing around and Jangdae. Since Jangdae was also a place for military drills and reviews of soldiers, a wide podium was positioned at the front to muster the soldiers. This feature was standardized in the space organization of Jangdae in Joseon, and a mere podium was installed unless the topographic restrictions allows enough space. On the other hand, as a place for a commander, the hierarchy of the Jangdae was revealed through a variety of architectural characteristics. The hierarchy was assigned to the commander's space through the altitude difference, and diverse ornaments were added to show a sense of class. The floor plan of the Jangdae building can be largely categorized into rectangle and square, and the typical sizes of the former are $5{\times}4$ Kans (traditional measuring unit between two columns) and $3{\times}2$ Kans. Out of these two types, buildings of $5{\times}4$ Kans were found in flat land and eupseong fortresses with large space, and the relatively smaller ones of $3{\times}2$ Kans in mountain fortresses. All buildings of square floor plan had $3{\times}3$ Kans style, and the center Kan was twice wider than the side Kan to make the central space wide. It seems that the purpose was to secure the interior space of the upper story because the center Kan accounts for the floor area of the upper story. Some Jangdae's had internal story to form overhead space. The multi-roofed tower style with eaves attached to the upper and lower story is found exclusively in Jangdae. The buildings shows the Onkanmulim style which extends Naejinju (inner column) of the lower story to be the Byeonju (outer column) of the upper story, and the log-framed floor in the upper floor was structured by inserting the Changbang (connecting beam) between the Naejinju's and joining the log frames. In addition, the towers in eupseong fortresses had log-framed floor in the upper floor by setting up the high Nuhaju (column underneath a roof) and joining Cheongbang to the upper part of the column while it cannot be regarded as multi-roofed because only the upper part has a roof.
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