• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.18-33
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• 2023

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Precision Engineering Conference
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• 2004.10a
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• pp.409-412
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• 2004

In this paper, an integrated automation system of pattern design and $CO_2$ laser cutting for diving suits is presented. Pattern design includes grading which creates a full-size range from a base pattern. Tool path for laser cutting from the patterns is generated in G-code format. $CO_2$ Laser cutting machine is developed to help cut the patterns with accuracy and speed. Aluminum profiles, ball screws, and stepping motors are engaged into the machine as frame structure, transfer unit, and driving devices respectively. The developed system is tested in dry suit cutting, convincing it can be readily introduced in driving suits manufacturing with respect to cost and efficiency.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
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• 2006.04a
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• pp.325-332
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• 2006

Membrane structures, a kind of lightweight soft structural system, are used for spatial structures. The design procedure of membrane structures are needed to do shape finding, stress-deformation analysis and cutting pattern generation, because the material property has strong axial stiffness, but little bending stiffness. The problem of cutting pattern is highly varied in their size, curvature and material stiffness. So, the approximation inherent in cutting pattern generation methods is quite different. Therefore the ordinary computer software of structural analysis & design is not suitable for membrane structures. In this study, we develop the program for cutting pattern generation using geodesic line, and investigate the result of example's cutting pattern in detail.

• Proceeding of KASS Symposium
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• 2006.05a
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• pp.205-213
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• 2006

Membrane structures, a kind of lightweight soft structural system, are used for spatial structures. The design procedure of membrane structures are needed to do shape finding, stress-deformation analysis and cutting pattern generation, because the material property has strong axial stiffness, but little bending stiffness. The problem of cutting pattern is highly varied in their size, curvature and material stiffness. So, the approximation inherent in cooing pattern generation methods is quite different. Therefore the ordinary computer software of structural analysis & design is not suitable for membrane structures. In this study, we develop the program for cutting pattern generation using geodesic line, and investigate the result of example's cutting pattern in detail.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.5
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• pp.969-983
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• 2020

Zero waste fashion design to minimize the 15% fabric waste generated during production can be difficult to industrialize instead of having strong originality. This study designed shirts that are practical and reflect trends using the zero waste pattern cutting method and suggest the possibilities for industrial production. The content of the study are as follows. First, the pattern cutting method of zero waste fashion design was studied. Second, the recent trends of shirt design were analyzed and reflected in the design development. Third, 4 zero waste shirt designs were developed and produced by applying the geometric cutting, puzzle cutting, and minimal cutting methods. As for the research method, literature research was conducted on related references; in addition, design development and production were conducted empirically. As a result, the developed zero waste shirts are practical and trendy. In addition, the results of the study are meaningful to provide basic data for the commercialization and industrial application of zero waste fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.929-939
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• 2015

Zero-waste is sustainable development for ensuring continuous interactions with the environment as well as for the next generations, while expanding across industries. Zero-waste fashion design does not necessarily mean that we should stop making clothes in order to reduce waste, but we consider the social values of sustainability regarding the environment, humans, and profit. In particular, in the pre-use stage of zero-waste fashion design, fashion designers play critical roles. The purpose of this study is to develop a methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design through establishing the typology of zero-waste pattern making (ZWPM) as well as exploring the practical implications of zero-waste fashion design. For the realization of zero-waste fashion design that draws from pattern-making principals, this study categorizes zero-waste fashion design into zero-waste pattern cutting (ZWPC) and non-pattern cutting (NPC). ZWPC is based on drafting patterns on a piece of fabric, which can enable the sharing of patterns and processes, while NPC requires little- or non-cutting/sewing in optimizing a piece of fabric, bringing the possibility of creating indefinite forms. ZWPC is sub-categorized into tailored and non-tailored, and NCP into draped and folded. Then, by implementing the typology in undergraduate design programs, this study tests and completes the design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design.

• Proceedings of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute Conference
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• 2000.04b
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• pp.357-364
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• 2000

The three main processes involved in the design of stressed membrane surface are surface form-finding, stress analysis and cutting pattern generation. The last process, cutting pattern generation, is considered as a very important procedure in the aspect of the practical design for the fabric membrane surface. In this paper, The cutting pattern generation technique using the geodesic line algorithms is first introduced. And the numerical examples resulting from this technique are presented. Cable elements are used for the approximating membrane surface and two kinds of model, square line and central line model, are used in pattern generation. Finally, a number of different cutting pattern generation for the same membrane surface is carried out and the numerical results are compared each

• Design & Manufacturing
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.22-26
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• 2023

As Light-Emitting Diodes(LEDs) continue to advance in performance, their application in automotive lamps is increasing. Automotive LEDs utilize light guides not only for aesthetics but also to control light quantity and direction. Light guides employ patterns of a few hundred micrometers(㎛) to regulate the light, and the surface roughness(Ra) of these patterns can reach tens of nanometers(nm). Given that these light guides are produced through injection molding, mold processing technology with high surface quality micro-patterns is required. This study serves as a preliminary investigation into the development of high surface quality micro-pattern processing technology. It examines the surface roughness of the workpiece based on the cutting direction of the pattern and the cutting fluid type when cutting micro-patterns on STAVAX steel using cubic Boron Nitride(cBN) tools. The experiments involved machining a step-shaped micro-pattern with a height of 60 ㎛ and a pitch of 400 ㎛ in a 22×22 mm area under identical cutting conditions, with only the cutting direction and cutting fluid type being varied. The machining results of four cases were compared, encompassing two cases of cutting direction(parallel to the pattern, orthogonal to the pattern) and two cases of cutting fluid type (flood, mist). Consequently, the Ra value was found to be the highest(Ra 128.33 nm) when machining with the flood type in parallel to the pattern, while it was the lowest(Ra 95.22 nm) when machining with the mist type orthogonal to the pattern. These findings confirm that there is a difference of up to 25.8 % in the Ra value depending on the cutting direction and cutting fluid type.

• Proceeding of KASS Symposium
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• 2005.05a
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• pp.125-132
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• 2005

Membrane structures, a kind of lightweight soft structural system, are used for spatial structures. The material property of the membrane has strong axial stiffness, but little bending stiffness. The design procedure of membrane structures are needed to do shape finding, stress-deformation analysis and cutting pattern generation. In shape finding, membrane structures are unstable structures initially. These soft structures need to be introduced initial stresses because of its initial unstable state, and it happens large deformation phenomenon. And also there are highly varied in their size, curvature and material stiffness. So, the approximation inherent in cutting pattern generation methods is quite different. Therefore, in this study, to find the structural shape after large deformation caused by Initial stress, we need the shape analysis considering geometric nonlinear ten And the geodesic line on surface of initial equilibrium shape and the cutting pattern generation using the geodesic line is introduced.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.157-166
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• 2001

In general, the cutting pattern of the membrane structures is determined by dividing the complicated curved 3-D surface into several 2-D plane strip by using flattening technique. In this procedure, however, some discrepancies ore occurred between actual stresses of equilibrated state and designed uniform stresses because the material properties are not considered. These deviations can cause the critical structural problems, wrinkling or overstress, and thus a optimization process should be considered. In this paper, a new analytical method for determining an optimum cutting pattern considering material properties is presented. Here, iterative procedure is introduced to decrease the errors caused in numerical process. The optimization method proposed can diminish the deviations occurred by material properties and numerical errors, simultaneously. As a results, it is shown that the final stress distributions for the HP shell model are sufficiently near to design stress distributions, and it can be concluded that this method can be used to obtain the optimized cutting pattern of membrane structures.