DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

Pattern-cutting design for zero-waste fashion practice

제로 웨이스트 패션 실천을 위한 패턴 커팅 설계

  • Hyunju Kim (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University) ;
  • Hyunshin, Na (Dept. of Fashion Design & Marketing, Seoul Women's University)
  • 김현주 (서울여자대학교 패션산업학과) ;
  • 나현신 (서울여자대학교 패션산업학과)
  • Received : 2023.01.10
  • Accepted : 2023.01.31
  • Published : 2023.02.28

Abstract

Zero-waste pattern cutting is a groundbreaking sustainable fashion practice. However, few brands and designers have pursued this method because it requires creative pattern design that diverges from the existing process of using pattern slopers. Therefore, application within the fashion industry is not sufficient. Therefore, in an attempt to highlight the key characteristics of zero-waste pattern design, this study classifies and analyzes cases in which similar designs employ zero-waste pattern-cutting techniques. We hope to make zero-waste pattern design more accessible by presenting realistic pattern-cutting guidelines. To this end, theoretical research on relevant literature, previous research, and online resources and an empirical analysis of cases involving zero-waste pattern cutting were conducted in parallel. As a result of the study, we were able to classify the factors of zero-waste pattern design in terms of fabric use, design, and composition. Regarding materials, our research revealed the importance of appropriate fabric width, understanding the difference between waste minimization and minimal fabric use, and easy reuse and recycling. In terms of design, the simultaneous progress of pattern and design work, adjustable loose silhouettes, and the use of surplus fabric for functional and decorative details emerged as key characteristics. For composition, we found that size adjustment limits, arrangement irregularity, and pattern shapes were crucial elements and that various arrangements revealed unlimited design potential.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

This paper is a part of a doctoral dissertation.

References

  1. Bailey, A. (2017, April 22). Timo's top. Creative Cut Collection. Retrieved January 15, 2023, from https://creativecutcollection.wordpress.com/2017/04/22/timos-top/
  2. Beall, A. (2020, July). Why clothes are so hard to recycle. BBC Future. Retrieved October 3, 2020, from https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200710-why-clothes-are-so-hard-to-recycle
  3. Braungart, M., McDonough, W., & Bollinger, A. (2007). Cradle-to-Cradle design: Creating healthy emissions-a strategy for eco-effective product and system design. Journal of Cleaner Production, 15(13-14), 1337-1348. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2006.08.003
  4. Burnham, D. K. (1973). Cut my cote. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum.
  5. Carrico, M., & Kim, V. (2014). Expanding zero-waste design practices: A discussion paper. International Journal of Fashion Design Technology and Education, 7(1), 58-64. doi:10.1080/17543266.20 13.837967
  6. Cho, S. (2015). Development of zero waste fashion design process guideline from an educational perspective. Unpublished master's thesis, Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea.
  7. Chung, H. J., & Park, J. H. (2015). Zero-waste design of PartspARTs IMSEONOC. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(4), 171-186. doi:10.18652/2015.15.4.11
  8. Dufault, A. (2011, September 12). EcoSalon at NYFW: Yield's zero waste exhibit. Ecosalon. Retrieved November 29, 2020, from http://ecosalon.com/ecosalon-at-nyfw-yields-zero-waste-exhibit/
  9. Galambosova, G. (2021, March 10). How Italian futurism influenced fashion. Dailyart Magazine. Retrieved September 13, 2020, from https://www.dailyartmagazine.com/italian-futurist-fashion
  10. Han, S. S., & Suh, S. H. (2016). A study on the design development methods and the characteristics of zero waste fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 66(4), 61-76. doi:10.7233/jksc.2016.66.4.061
  11. Hethorn, J., & Ulasewic, C. (2008). Sustainable fashion why now? New York: Fairchild Book.
  12. Huh, G. (2018). A study of zero waste pattern cutting for menswear. The Journal of Humanities and Social Science 21, 9(3), 629-643. doi:10.22143/HSS21.9.3.47
  13. Huh, G. (2021). A study on ESG practice cases of fashion brands. The Journal of Humanities and Social Science 21, 12(4), 3283-3292. doi:10.22143/HSS21.12.4.233
  14. James, A. M., Roberts, B. M., & Kuznia, A. (2016). Transforming the sequential process of fashion production: Where zero-waste pattern cutting takes the lead in creative design. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 9(2), 142-152. doi:10.1080/17543266.2016.1167253
  15. Kim, H. J., & Na, H. S. (2015). A case study on the sustainable fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 15(3), 53-68. doi:10.18652/2015.15.3.4
  16. Kim, I.-K., Cha, Y.-M., & Lee, J.-A. (2016). Development of recycling zero-waste fashion design. Archives of Design Research, 29(2), 215-229. doi:10.15187/adr.2016.05.29.2.215
  17. Kim, J. P. (2021). ESG 혁명이 온다 [The ESG revolution is coming]. Seoul: Hansmedia.
  18. Kim, S. H. (2017). A study on zero-waste fashion design that applied aesthetic of sculpture by paper-folding. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  19. Kook, H. S. (2014). A study of sustainable zero waste fashion design. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  20. Kook, H. S., & Kim, H. Y. (2016). A study on features of sustainable zero waste fashion design. Bulletin of Korean Society of Basic Design & Art, 17(1), 31-45.
  21. Lee, S. (2018). A study on the characteristic of zero-waste fashion design for millennial generation. Unpublished master's thesis, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  22. Liu, M. (2016). Zero-waste fashion. Dr Makr Liu. Retrieved October 20, 2020, from http://www.drmarkliu.com/zerowaste-fashion-1
  23. Massey University College of Creative Arts. (2020). Make/use: Zero-waste fashion you can make yourself. Make/Use. Retrieved September 21, 2020, from https://makeuse.nz
  24. McQuillan, H. (2020). Digital 3D design as a tool for augmenting zero waste fashion design practice. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 13(1), 89-100. doi:10.1080/17543266.2020.1737248
  25. McQuillan, H., & Rissanen, T. (2011, September). YIELD exhibition catalogue [PDF document]. Brooklyn: Textile Arts Center. Retrieved September 15, 2020, from https://timorissanen.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/yieldexhibition-cataloguelr.pdf
  26. Na, H. S., & Kim, H. J. (2015). A case study on zero waste cutting fashion design. Journal Korea Society of Visual Design Forum, 48, 207-216. doi:10.21326/ksdt.2015..48.018
  27. New Material Award 2009-2018. (n.d.). 2009 Fioen van Balgooi in collaboration with Berber Soepboer fragment textiles. Retrieved January 14, 2023, from https://new-material-award.nl/en/fragment-textiles/
  28. Risssanen, T. (2013). Zero-waste fashion design: A study at the intesection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, University of Technology Sydney, Australia.
  29. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H. (2016). Zero waste fashion design. London: Fairchild Books, an Imprint of Bloomsbury Publishing.
  30. Rissanen, T., Mcquillan, H. (2020). Zero waste fashion design (electronic ed.). London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts.
  31. Ro, C. (2020, March 11). Can fashion ever be sustainable? BBC Future. Retrieved September 13, 2020, from https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200310-sustainable-fashion-how-to-buy-clothes-good-for-the-climate
  32. Scarlett, I. C. (2020, July 3). 100 years ago Thayaht and Ram designed the first Tuta. All About Italy. Retrieved January 13, 2023, from https://www.allaboutitaly.net/thayaht-ram-designed-first-tuta
  33. Schnitzer, H., & Ulgiati, S. (2007). Less bad is not good enough: Approaching zero emissions techniques and systems. Journal of Cleaner Production, 15(13-14), 1185-1189. doi:10.1016/j.jclepro.2006.08.001
  34. Tessellation. (2020). In Doopedia. Retrieved November 25, 2020, from https://terms.naver.com/entry.nhn?docId=1231715&cid=40942&categoryId=33074
  35. Thecuttingclass. (2013, October 25). Subtraction pattern cutting with Julian Roberts. Retrieved June 24, 2020, from https://www.thecuttingclass.com/subtraction-pattern-cutting-with-julian-roberts/
  36. Townsend, K., & Mills, F. (2013). Mastering zero: How the pursuit of less waste leads to more creative pattern cutting. International Journal of Fashion Design, Technology and Education, 6(2), 104-111. doi:10.1080/17543266.2013.793746
  37. Villamil, C. (n.d.). Felt architecture for the body, zero waste style. Carlos Villamil. Retrieved September 13, 2020, from https://carlosvillamil.com/zero-waste-fashion
  38. Yoon, J., & Yim, E. (2015). Design methodology for the realization of zero-waste fashion design -Focused on the typology of ZWPM-. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture Print, 23(6), 929-939. doi:10.7741/RJCC.2015.23.6.929
  39. Zero Waste International Alliance. (2018). Zero waste definition. Zero Waste International Alliance. Retrieved September 13, 2020, from http://zwia.org/zero-waste-definition