• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.634-640
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• 2004

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear. Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make various size pattern. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for high school boys' pants and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 217 high school boys of 16 to 18 year-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4%, was classified 8 cases. Among them, 71-92 and 71-88 size were the most frequent size and were adopted the basic size for the two types of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, 4 size's new grading-rule patterns were developed by each size. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Human Ecology Research
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.81-92
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• 2015

Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.167-186
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• 1994

The purpose of his study is to investigate the relationship between the business cycle and the fashion of silhouette from 1956 to 1992. Correlation analysis an regression analysis were used to investigate the relation of them. In this study, the coincident composite index was used as business cycle and change of skirt in length and width, collar and pants in width wee thoroughly checked through graphs and photographs. The results of analysis are as follows. 1. When the economy is to ascend, the skirts are short and narrow. On the country, when the economy is descend, they are long and wide. 2. The business cycle gives influence on skirts line and with, that is, about 18%, 33% of total changes. 3. In change of fashion, skirts length and width had significant positive correlation and they showed a tendency to move together. On the other hand, the change of collar and patterns in width have no connection with business fluctuation. 4. The change of fashion is affected by the movement of itself. According to analysis that includes the trend of skirts, about 50%, and 35% of changes in skirts length and width were decided by them,. and about 52% and 35% of change in collar and patterns width were decided by them.

• 복식
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• 제56권7호
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• pp.105-120
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• 2006

Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2014

This study aimed to develop appropriate jeans patterns for men in their twenties. The study discovered designs and materials that were most commonly used by investigating preferred jeans brands for men in their twenties, and among them three brands were selected. The study carried out a fitting assessment aimed at research subjects who had the average body type of men in their twenties and who wore jeans of the selected brands. Then, the study designed research patterns by taking as a basic pattern the patterns of the company who received the highest score and modifying any part that revealed a problem. After making the research jeans in twice, a fitting adequacy assessment was undertaken in order to identify any difference between the existing jeans and the research jeans. As a result of the appearance assessment, the problems shown in appearance overall was confirmed to be improved as it received a higher assessment compared with the existing jeans overall. As a result of the fitting assessment, the study collected the assessment results of waist measurement, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and fit of back central line laid slope ease. Based on the result, the study confirmed the parts to be modified and proposed slim fit jeans patterns in consideration of the body type characteristics of men in their twenties.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권8호
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• pp.69-81
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to design high school boy's uniforms, which fit well and express the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing. Korean traditional clothing is getting ground for the use as active wear as well as formal wear such as wedding or special holiday clothing. This is partly due to the introduction of western clothing in Korea because of the practical nature of this type of clothing. This study was carried out as follows: 1. First, 197 high school boys from 5 different high schools were surveyed. All of these schools use Korean style school uniforms. The survey asked the students about their satisfaction with the current designs, problems and design preferences for Korean style high school uniforms. In general, the boys are not satisfied with the aesthetic and fashionable aspects of their uniforms. 2. The second survey dealt with design preferences from a variety of design options of Korean-style school uniforms. The design options were presented to the students as in the form of 10 different types jackets and 6 different types of pants. Using the results of the second survey as a guideline, the designs of Korean style school uniforms were developed. 3. In order to make the test garments, a block bodice pattern for the Korean style school uniforms was developed. Using the developed bodice block pattern, 6 designs were made of wool. The 6 test designs consisted of 3 different types of jackets and 3 different types of pants. 4. Incorporating the most preferred design features, school boy Korean style school uniform designs were developed. The characteristics of the design include neck line opening and its finishing, AH and sleeve shape, embroidered traditional patterns and fastenings. In this study we were able to develop comfortable clothing, which expressed the traditional aesthetics of Korean clothing.

• 복식
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• 제58권5호
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.999-1011
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• 2008

국내 패션관련 교육기관은 대부분은 졸업작품 쇼를 행하고 있는데, 학생들이 직접 제작하는 작품 쇼의 경우는 시간적, 경제적 인 여유 부족과 정확한 모델 치수 및 이에 따른 인대와 원형패턴의 부재로 의상 제작 후, 사이즈 수정에 많은 시간을 허비하게 된다. 따라서 본 연구는 대학의 졸업작품 진행 과정의 문제점과 필요한 원형의 종류를 조사하고, 현역 A급 모델의 신체 치수를 계측하여 표준 사이즈를 조사하였다. 이를 토대로 아이템에 따른 원형을 제작, 이를 현역 모델에 착장하여 졸업 쇼를 위한 기본 패턴을 제시하고자 하였다. 졸업작품 쇼는 학교에 따라 진행하는 과정과 기간에 차이를 보이지만 대부분 모델 가봉 후 수선 정도가 많고 경우에 따라서는 의상을 새로이 제작하여야하는 경우도 발생하여 모델 사이즈의 기본원형에 대한 필요성이 많이 나타났다. 모델의 신체 계측결과 모델은 일반인에 비해 슬림하고 가는 체형이며 키가 크고 다리가 길다. 여자의 경우 어깨너비가 일반인에 비해 넓지만 가슴둘레와 허리둘레는 더 가늘게 나타났으며 어깨를 편 바른 자세여서 뒷품과 앞품의 차이가 적었다. 이는 남자 모델의 경우도 같게 나타났고 전체적으로 다리길이와 소매길이의 비율이 크게 나타났다. 여자의 경우 토르소와 스커트, 바지패턴을, 남자의 경우 재킷과 바지 패턴을 머슬린으로 제작하여 현재 활동 중인 A급 남녀 모델 각각 2명씩에게 착장하였다. 제작원형들은 그 맞음새가 모두 적절하였고 남녀 모두 상의 경우는 편차가 적은 어깨너비는 고정하고 품과 둘레항목에서 편차를 주어 패턴을 수정하는 것이 바람직하다. 하의의 경우 여자 모델은 엉덩이 부분에 여유가 없는 바지원형을 설계 제시하고, 이는 타이트 핏 팬츠나 스트레치 소재에 사용에 적절하고 여유 있는 바지의 경우는 엉덩이둘레 폭과 밑위너비 폭에 변화를 주는 것이 바람직하다. 남자모델의 경우 하의는 비교적 잘 맞아 수정이 필요한 부분이 없었으며 전체적인 둘레 편차 역시 3cm 내외로 작아 수정의 폭은 작다. 다만 키에 따른 다리길이 편차가 심해 모델에 따라 길이조정 이 필요하지만 전체적인 맞음새에 영향을 주지 않았다. 이와 같이 본 연구에서 제안한 모델 치수는 현재 우리나라에서 활동하고 있는 A급 모델을 기준으로 제안되었으므로 평균적인 모델 치수와 근접하다고 할 수 있다. 또한 연구패턴 역시 현재 모델의 신체에 적절하게 잘 맞았으며 모델 개인에 따른 신체 치수의 편차에 따라 차이를 보이겠지만 본 연구에서 제시된 패턴의 품 조절만으로도 충분히 잘 맞는 패턴으로 사료된다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2002

This study aims to present basic data on current uniforms for the practical improvement and quality betterment of their design by investigating and analysing the uniform designs worn by employees working in department stores, shopping malls and financial firms. For the research, after taking pictures of employees wearing uniforms from various occupations in Daejeon area from April 15 to May 24, 2001, the uniform styles, and the shape, color and pattern of each item were analysed by a group of four costume experts. The result is as follows: First, the uniform forms are classified by the style, and silhouette. It was found that the overall silhouette mostly consisted of hourglass silhouette, and two-piece suits. Second, for the color of each item, black was the most common color for the jacket, skirt, pants and white for the one-piece dress. Third, plain, abstract, and striped patterns, and polka dots were used for the uniforms. Among them the plain pattern accounts for the highest rate.