The Traditional Look, a class of fashion, represents image based on British aristocratic authenticity and cultural heritage as unchangeable and lasting classic fashion style. And recently, it keeps up with the trend of modern and young consumers' desire by putting various images. The purpose of the study is to investigate the concept, image and present market condition and to analyze degree of consumers' brand awareness of Traditional brand in pursuit of developing new market and ensuring power between competitive brands. From above work, surveyed on degree of brand awareness and interest, preference, associable image and purchase factors coming from consumers. 606 data were analyzed with SPSS package. Frequency, Factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Multiple response, and correlation were applied. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Traditional brand has a high degree at consumers' brand awareness but comparatively lower at interest in it. In band name, while the Burberry has the highest brand awareness, the Polo and the Hunt take first and second position in a purchasing rate. Brand preference has tendency to be concentrated on certain brands showing the outstanding highest degree like the Polo in the 20s, and the Burberry in the 50s in aspect of age structure. 2. In associable image of Traditional brand, it is associate with noble image as dignified, classical and intellectual with itself strongly among practical, individuality, confidential and noble image. 3. As the purchase factors of traditional brand products, it depends on mainly the reliability and esthetic factors like design and quality rather than ostentatious and practical factors. 4. Associable image except individuality image is correlated with the purchase factors of traditional brand.
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.8
no.3
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pp.31-42
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1984
This paper is a research on the origins and the developing process of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ centering on the change of its form. From the beginning of A. D era Central Asia had played the important role of a traffic route connecting China and its western adjacent world. Through this route $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was introduced into China (South-North Dynasty era). The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period was Ban-Gum-Po (Open-collared costume that turn down the collar to the outside), and it could be worn close-collared or open-collared. From the fact that the people who wore $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ in early period were mainly Iranian and that it was also worn by lower class like a waiting maid, it can be said that $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was not the costume of Han race. In early period the motif of the inside of collar was Persian style, and the people of central Asia was mostif Iranian. In short, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ was the costum of the people lived in the adjacent world west of China, particulary Iranians. The form of $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ changed from Ho-Bok to Ban-Gum-Po owing to the differences in climate. In conclusion, $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ originated in Ho-Bok ana was introduced into the world west of china by the movement of Horrse-riding Race. Then its form was changed owing to the factors like climate, natural and cultural features, and consepuently it was introduced into China by way of Centeral Asia. In China it was settled as $Dan-Ry\={o}ng$ through the ages of T'ang dynasty, Sung dynasty, Ming dynasty.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.27
no.7
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pp.735-745
/
2003
This paper looks at perceived images of female university students concerned with various wedding hair coordination including wedding hair styles, veil details and fitting positions and head dresses. Ta design an experimental test of a wedding dress and hair coordination variables, the content analysis of magazines was performed and hair experts were interviewed. 17 stimuli representing the variables of wedding hair coordination were manipulated and included with hair styles(2), veil details(2), veil fitting Positions(2), head dresses(2) and a wedding hat(1). The questionnaire of 445 was carried out and data were statistically processed. As a result, five images of wedding hair coordination were factors loaded, that is, favorable, decorative, smooth, personal and pretty one. Various main and interaction effects were found in images of it regarding to changing hair styles, different veil details and fitting positions and head dresses. favorable images, they affected by interactions between hair styles and veil details, hair styles and veil fitting positions, hair styles and head dresses and between veil details and the fitting positions. For personal images, interactions between veil details and the positions of veil fitting had effects on female students; for smooth images, That is, for hair style, female university students were influenced by favorable and smooth images; for veil details, by decorative and smooth images; for the positions of fitting veil, by decorative and favorable ones Then the researcher examined effects by dual interactions between factors of wedding hair coordination. For decorative images, they were found influenced by interactions between hair styles and veil details and between hair styles and head dresses. For personal ones, interactions between veil details and the fitting positions; for pretty images, interactions between the fitting positions and head dresses. These findings will provide sellers of the wedding dress with the idea of how females to perceive wedding hair coordination according to the variation of it.
Consumption of faux fur is a part of ethical consumption, and is valuable in terms of protecting and caring for animals. The purpose of this study is to understand the meaning of consuming faux fur (i.e., characteristics of faux fur consumption and how consumers relate faux fur with ethical issues) from the perspective of consumer culture theory. Data were collected through semi-structured in-depth interviews with those who have purchased faux fur. Two overarching themes emerged in regards to consuming faux fur, altruistic and egoistic orientation. Regarding the altruistic orientation, participants were sympathetic to animals, and considered consumption as part of practicing social responsibility and ethics. Participants had concerns for animal rights and conflicts with others who consumed actual fur. They viewed faux fur as an alternative to actual fur. Regarding egoistic orientation, participants isolated themselves from ethical issues in order to be free from guilt. Despite the preference for actual fur, they compromised between their desire and social criticism. Furthermore, their intention was to pretend as if they were wearing actual fur or move onto a completely different style, and had a negative outlook on social change regarding the adoption of faux fur. The findings contribute to a better understanding of consumer culture of consuming faux fur. Further research on diverse aspects of ethical consumption is warranted.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the transition of clothing behavior and clothing consumption pattern of college students in Choong Nam province. 75 subjects were surveyed in 1995 and 2000. For statistical analysis, $X^2$-test were used by SPSSWIN program. The results of this study were as follows. 1. Number of clothing showed significant difference according to year and the number of coat and formal wear increased in 2000 compared with 1995. 2. Clothing consumption pattern showed significant difference according to year. College students purchased on sale more frequently and preferred more expensive clothes in the year 2000 compared with 1995. 3. Contentment for clothing behavior showed significant difference according to year and the extent of contentment decreased as years go by. 4. Number of clothing showed significant difference according to sex and female students had more clothes than male students, but the difference between male and female decreased as years go by from 1995 to 2000. 5. Clothing consumption pattern showed significant difference according to sex and female students purchased ell sale more frequently than male students, but the difference between male and female decreased as years go by. 6. Contentment for clothing behavior showed significant difference according to sex, but female students described to not adequate the quantity of feminine style wear and the interest in fashion of male students was increased as years go by.
Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.
The Transactions of the Korean Institute of Electrical Engineers B
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v.55
no.12
/
pp.633-639
/
2006
High temperature superconductor (HTS) winding coil is one of the key component in superconducting device fabrication. Double-pancake style coils are widely used for such application. High resistance between pancake coils greatly affects the machine design, operating condition and thus the stability. In order to reduce such resistance, experimentalists are looking for efficient and damage free coil connecting methods. In this respect, here we proposed parallel joining method to connect the coils. This is to do crossly joining with HTS tapes on two parallel HTS tapes. Joint samples between two parallel HTS tapes were prepared by using HTS tapes and current-voltage (I-V) characteristic curves were investigated at liquid nitrogen temperature i.e., 77.3 K. A 20 cm length joint connected between two parallel HTS tapes shows $32.5n{\Omega}$, for currents up to 250 A. A small HTS magnet, having two double pancake sub-coils connected together through new parallel joint method was fabricated and their current-voltage (I-V) characteristic curve was investigated. At 77.3K, critical current(Ic) of 97 A and resistance of $55n{\Omega}$ for currents upto 130 A were measured. At operating current 86 A lower than Ic, Joule heats generated in whole magnet and at joint region between sub-coils were 226 mW and 0.4 mW, respectively. Low Joule heat generation suggests that this joining method may be used to fabricate HTS magnet or windings.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.34
no.9
/
pp.1429-1441
/
2010
This study examines the post-national trends of the $21^{st}$ century fashion that has embraced multiculturalism. This study conducted a literature view to explore the concept of multiculturalism and the background of post-national phenomena appearing in contemporary fashion. In addition, as a case study, the author used local and foreign fashion magazines and collections published between 2000 and 2009, in addition to other related materials available on the Internet. The objective was to analyze photographic materials in which post-national features are reflected. From this study, the post-national trends in $21^{st}$ century fashion that adopted multiculturalism are as follows: The first is that oriental culture is more actively embraced. In the past, the tendency of embracing the oriental culture was mainly developed with a focus on China and Japan, but recently the tendency has spread to Southeast Asian countries and national/ethnic minorities that include Mongolians and Tibetans that is present in more active ways that reflect oriental sentiment and philosophy as well as adopts simple images. Second, $21^{st}$ century fashion based on multiculturalism broadens the interest in the understanding of nations in the regions of Africa, Middle East, and South America and uses regional folk costumes or indigenous characteristics to create new things instead of staying within a fixed paradigm. Third, as horizontal transfer is involved in ways of looking at culture, $21^{st}$ century fashion shows a post-national tendency to use regional cultures and folk costumes of the occidental world that includes North and West Europe in addition to non-mainstream regions (as considered so far). Fourth, dress elements of many heterogeneous national cultures are combined to create multinational images difficult to define in terms of a specific national culture or clothing style.
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