• Title/Summary/Keyword: embroidered

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The Study on Ancient Embroidered Norigae and Modern Embroidered Norigae. -Focus on the Current Embroiered Norigae in 1990- (유물 수노리개와 현대 수노리개의 비교 연구 (1990년 시중 수노리개를 중심으로))

  • 홍복의;박경자
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.18
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    • pp.373-381
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    • 1992
  • Woman in Choson era had various kind of accdssories like rings, ear ring, ornamentak hairpins and so on. Among them their favorite was the Norigae, the pendent trinket. With the embroidered ornament at its center, beads and knots were attached to the upper and lower part, and it was hung with a tassel. It was carried on the string of the Chogori. norigae oreginated in waist string of Three Countries era(Sills, Paekje and Koguryo) ; had been changed with the development of fashion, embroidery and the influence of Buddhistic culture. The differences between Embroidered Norigae and Norigae are following. If the ornament at its center is made of such jewels as gold, silver, jade and the like, it is called Norigae. But if the ornament at its center is made of the embroidered Norigae. Such a Embroidered Norigae in which perfume was contained, was as a perfume box or a perfume bag and was carried on the strings of Chogori by Danjak(single work). The Differences between ancient Embroidered Norigae of late Choson era and modern Embroidered Norigae are Following; 1) The type of main body-the embroidered ornament at its center was mainly embroidered with the shape of animals in both of ancient Embroidered Norigae was usually formes like a bat and that of modern Embroidered Norigae like butterfly. 2) plants were adapted as the main design of ancient Embroidered Norigae, but plants and animals as that of modern Embroidered Norigae. 3) The colors of the background and the design are usually red in both ancient and modern Embroidered norigae. 4) The tassels of ancient Embroidered Norigae were mode in the shape of srick and a strawberry. but the tassels of modern Embroidered Norigae were mainly made in the shape of a stick. 5) Nowadays the beauty of external form is considered more important while the symbol of main body was considered more important in Choson era. 6) The role of Thidon in the composition of Embroidered Norigae is declined and a lot of main bodies are used in modern Embroidered Norigae. 7) Modern Korean people are apt to choose Embroidered Norigae depending upon the design of main body and the traditional Korean beauty. 8) Modern people who desire to get new thing, try to make the design of main body various. As their cognition of Korean tradition is of the increase, the restoration of ancient Embroidered Norigae to its original form has been accom

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A Study on Expressive Features of Embroidered Norigae in the Chosun Dynasty (조선시대 수노리개에 나타난 표현 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Yang, Suk-Hyang
    • The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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    • v.22 no.1
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    • pp.103-113
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of the study was to examine formative features of embroidered norigae in form, color, pattern and expressive technique through positive analysis of relics and various of collections of work and to consider expressive features of embroidered norigae. The results of the study were as follows. First, embroidered norigae has handcrafted decoration. it was made by being sewed for women longing for their family's happiness. Embroidered norigae is a dress worn by women that is hung on a coat string or the waist part of a skirt. Second, it is eco-environmental. Embroidered norigae applied things seen in nature such as flowers, butterflies and bees to its pattern. Third, it has practicality. Embroidered norigae has high practical value besides a decorative function. Needle case norigae and incense case norigae provide functions in accordance with women's wisdom and skill as well as practicality. Fourth, it is praying for good luck. Women embroidered patterns symbolizing their desires in life such as their family's happiness, wealth, many sons and a long life. Fifth, it has balance and harmony. The knot of embroidered norigae has a perfect symmetry in the front/back part and in the right/left part. And the main body and tassel are symetrical in the right/left part, which gives stability and comfortableness. Embroidered norigae is classified into knot, main body and decorative part in its form. The three kinds express their unique beauty by being harmonized together. Finally, it has a property of melody. Movement of the tassel has a property of melody shaken by the wind and movement of its wearer.

Property changes of the machine-embroidered fabrics in stitch techniques and width (자수기법과 자수 폭에 따른 기계자수 직물 및 니트의 물성변화)

  • Chang, Eun-Jung;Park, Myung-Ja
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.3
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2019
  • This study examined the cause of the phenomenon of shrinkage in machine-embroidered fabrics, specifically those made of thin and pliable fabrics. Four woven fabrics and two knitted fabrics were selected as samples for analysis. The fabrics selected were silk organza, flax linen, polyester chiffon, cotton batiste, polyester raschel mesh, and cotton jersey. The thickness and drapability of the fabrics were observed and the shrinkage of the various types of embroidered fabrics produced using satin & step stitch techniques were measured. Moreover, the correlation between the shrinkage of the machine-embroidered fabrics and the drapability of the original fabrics was analyzed. Also, the colorfastness of six embroidery yarns was determined. The results of the study are as follows: first, the shrinkage of machine-embroidered fabrics increased at a greater rate than in embroidered knitted fabrics as compared to rates in embroidered woven fabrics. Moreover, in terms of stitch techniques, there was a greater shrinkage rate when satin stitch was applied compared to step stitch. Second, the shrinkage rate of machine-embroidered fabrics decreased when a stabilizer was fused onto the fabric. The shrinkage rate also decreased for fabrics when fused with paper stabilizer compared to those without it, and the rate decreased at a greater amount with paper stabilizer as compared to alginate film. Third, since there was a strong correlation between the shrinkage rate of the embroidered fabric and the drapability ratio of the original fabric, it was generally the case that the more pliable the fabric was, the greater the shrinkage rate was when the fabric was embroidered. Fourth, while the embroidery yarns mainly used in machine-embroidery presented an overall excellent level of colorfastness, there was slight color migration of level 4 to level 5 when using viscose rayon.

A Study of the Era and Background of Embroidered Kasaya, Designated as a Treasure in South Korea (보물 자수가사의 제작 시기와 배경 고찰)

  • An, Boyeon;Hong, Na Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.46 no.1
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 2022
  • The embroidered Kasaya is the twenty-five column Kasaya of Triratna: Buddha, Dharma, and Sangha. Even though it is a representative artifact of embroidery, the method of manufacturing heavily depends on the collector's reports. This study focuses on the prayer's recorder: Gonmyeong Park, born in Muja, and Ven. Haebung, who acted as a historical investigator of embroidered Kasaya. The beginning of Haebung's public record was in 1815, and his entrance into nirvana in 1826. The birth year of prayer in Muja was 1768. Therefore, the embroidered Kasaya was manufactured at the end of the 18th century or the early 19th century. Haebung appears to have played a critical role in historical investigation, and consequently the 125 icons of Triratna are almost identical in three treasures: the Kasaya at Seonamsa Temple, the embroidered Kasaya, and the painting of the embroidered Kasaya at Cheongnyongsa Temple. The embroidered Kasaya was particularly affected by the religion of a thousand Buddhas and by Triratna in the late Joseon era. Unlike the Kasaya of a thousand Buddhas in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the embroidered Kasaya shows the Triratna in detail, suggesting that the icons of Triratna were newly created.

Characteristic Investigation According to Structures of Embroidered Radiation Patches at SF-MPAA (SF-MPAA의 자수된 방사체의 구조에 따른 특성 분석)

  • Ki, Hyeon-Cheol
    • The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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    • v.20 no.6
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    • pp.21-26
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    • 2020
  • In this paper, we investigated the characteristics of SF-MPAA depend on the structures of radiators when they were embroidered for realizing embroidered SF-MPAA. As increasing pitches by decreasing numbers of grids in length-direction and width-direction of the embroidered radiator the antenna gain and resonance frequency were trendingly decreased. However the characteristics of antenna were affected very much by the pitch in width-direction but affected relatively less by the pitch in length-direction. Therefore it was beneficial to decrease number of grids in length-direction to decrease conductor ratio. SLL was affected by the combination of length-direction pitch and width-direction pitch. The conductor ratio of embroidered radiator was determined by the ratio of pitch to embroidered thread thickness. When the ratio was less than 5 the conductor ratio was decreased rapidly. But when the ratio was larger than 5 the conductor ratio was decreased slowly and saturated.

Xiongnu Carpeting Traditions and Pattern Designs

  • Munkhtsetseg BAYANZUL
    • Acta Via Serica
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.71-86
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    • 2023
  • This article aims to reveal the history of traditional Mongolian carpeting techniques and their development and application based on archeological findings as well as related research from field researchers. Furthermore, the article highlights some of the ancient traditions in modern carpet decorative motifs and pattern designs. The paper focuses on traditional carpeting techniques, decoration motifs, pattern designs, and representations of embroidered felt carpets from Xiongnu Dynasty (209 BCE - 48 CE) elite burials. Main themes for this research are: 1. Traditional materials and techniques for making Xiongnu carpets. 2. Xiongnu embroidered felt carpet pattern designs, decoration motifs, and representations. 3. The development of modern Mongolian carpet decoration motifs and pattern designs. This research considers archeological evidence and socio-cultural factors together to hypothesize that traditional Xiongnu embroidered felt carpet techniques, main featured motifs, and pattern designs are widely used in modern Mongolian carpet design and have a significant influence on its development.

An Investigation of human body influence on Embroidered Textile Dipole Antenna (자수된 직물 다이폴안테나에 미치는 인체영향에 대한 분석)

  • Ki, Hyeon-Cheol
    • The Journal of the Institute of Internet, Broadcasting and Communication
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    • v.21 no.5
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    • pp.155-160
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    • 2021
  • In this paper, we investigated the aptness of embroidered textile dipole antenna as a wearable antenna. We designed an 2.45GHz ISM band embroidered textile dipole antenna on polyester textile. We investigated its characteristics depends on 3 variables, thickness of textile(ttextile), distance between textile and surface of body(gbody) and conductance of surface of body(𝜎body). Thickness of textile(ttextile) was affecting on the antenna resonance frequency(fo). As the conductance of surface of body(𝜎body) was increased the antenna resonance frequency(fo) and the antenna gain were increased slightly. The increment of the distance between textile and surface of body(gbody) caused relatively large increment of the antenna resonance frequency(fo) and the antenna gain. From the results, in the case of designing an embroidered textile dipole antenna as a wearable antenna we should consider carefully the two variables, distance between textile and surface of body(gbody) and thickness of textile(ttextile). Due to its large variation, the distance between textile and surface of body(gbody) may be a technical barrier in designing embroidered textile dipole antenna.

Conservation of Embroidered Textiles and Textile Works (자수 및 직물 공예품의 보존처리)

  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.198-210
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

Study on Housed at Museum of Sun Am Temple (선암사 소장 <용문자수탁의(龍紋刺繡卓衣)> 연구)

  • Sim, Yeon-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.67 no.2
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    • pp.88-100
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    • 2017
  • This study is for the textiles of at Sun Am Temple and characteristic of embroidery. Tak Ui was composed of orange body and green upper cover, and had no strings. The body plate was covered with embroidery, with Gauze base, and upper part was appliqued, by cutting dragon pattern, cloud pattern on satin damask. The thread for embroidery was silk floss, silk twisted thread, rapped gold thread, and rapped silk thread. For padding, it was used cotton thread in the part of dragon's scales. It was used satin stitch, outline stitch, split stitch, couching, and counted stitch, etc. as method of embroidery. In particular, it embroidered counted stitch of diamond shape consecutively on the whole of Tak Ui, it does so with counted stitch of same effect of weaving Brocade in the part of cloud. Besides, it is one of the characteristic for couching rapped silk thread. Such lead embroidery is the popular method in the Ming dynasty of China, in the 16~17 century. The design of Tak Ui is dragon, cloud, and wave in the theme. In the center, 'Seong-su-man-nyeon' was placed on the heads of dragon. This is similar to Dragon Robe of Four-petalled medallion patterns, period of Ming dynasty in China. Therefore, it confirmed that Tak Ui was remodeled the embroidered textiles, made for royal robe, originally, with Tak Ui at temple.

Types and Characteristics of Women's Embroidered Handicrafts of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 자수 규방공예품의 유형과 특성)

  • Kwon, Su-Yeon;Jang, Hyun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.59 no.4
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.