Conservation of Embroidered Textiles and Textile Works

자수 및 직물 공예품의 보존처리

  • Ryu, Hyo-Seon (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles/Research Institute of Human Ecology, Seoul National University)
  • 유효선 (서울대학교 생활과학대학 의류학과/생활과학연구소)
  • Published : 2008.06.30

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

Keywords

References

  1. Landi, S. (1987). The Textile Conservator's Manual. London: Butterworths
  2. Timar-Balazsy, A. & Eastop, D. (1998). Chemical Prin- ciples of Textile Conservation, Butterworth-Heinemann Series in Conservation and Museology. London: Butter- worths
  3. 한영화 (2003). 전통자수. 서울: 대원사
  4. 이학 (1990). 韓繡硏究 한수연구. 한국자수문화협의회
  5. 박성실 (1998). 북한지방의 전통복식. 북한지방의 전통복식.개화이후 -해방전후. 서울: 단국대학교 부속 석주선기념민속박물관
  6. Timar-Balazsy, A. & Eastop, D. (1998). Cousens S. Second Sight: Further Investigation into the Construction of Ecclesiastical Embroideries and Tapestries in The Getty Conservation Institute (eds.) The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries (pp. 49-51). Los Angeles: The Getty Conservation Institute
  7. 김선경, 조효숙 (2005). 불복장 직물의 구조특성 및 연대규명. 복식, 55(8), pp. 73-84
  8. Flury-Lemberg, M. (1988). Textile conservation and research: a documentation of the textile department on the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of the Abegg Foundation. Bern: Schriften der Abegg
  9. 안춘순 (1999). 복식유물의 연구에 있어서 분광화학분석의 활용. 복식, 49, pp. 49-63
  10. Darrah J.A, & Jaro M. eds. (1989). Conservation of metals: problems in the treatment of metal-organic and metal-inorganic composite objects: International Restorer Seminar. Veszprem, Hungary, 1-10 July, 1989, pp. 53-63
  11. 허동화 (2001). 옛 자수의 제작과정에 대하여. 이렇게 좋은 자수. 한국자수박물관, pp. 268-271
  12. 허동화 (1978). 韓國의 刺繡. 삼성출판사
  13. 광주민속박물관 조사연구소 (2005). 광주의 민속공예 (제 13집), 광주민속박물관, p. 172
  14. Chung, Y.Y. (2005). Silken threads: a history of embroidery in China, Korea, Japan, and Vietnam, New York: Harry N. Abrams Inc. pp. 363-369
  15. 이상준, 백영미, 이건, 차미선, 권영숙 (2003). 대전 대덕구 출토 16세기 출토복식유물에 서식하는 곰팡이에 관한 연구. 복식, 53(5), 한국복식학회, pp. 23-31
  16. Pertegato F.(Francesco). Three Embroidered Pilaster Panels from the Church of San Pietro at Broni in The Getty Conservation Institute(eds.) The Conser- vation of Tapestries and Embroideries(pp. 25-32). Los Angeles: The Getty Conservation Institute
  17. Hofenk de Graaff, J.H.(2004). The Colorful Past; Origins, Chemistry and Identification of natural dyestuffs, Riggisberg, Switerland and London, UK: Abegg-Stiftung and Archetype Publications Ltd
  18. 장현주, 고순희 (2007). 중국 직물에 사용된 금장식기법의 유형과 특성. 복식, 57(9), pp. 1- 15
  19. 장현주, 고순희 (2006). 조선시대 복식에 사용된 금장식 기법의 유형과 특성. 服飾, 56(4), pp. 82-95
  20. Timar-Balazsy, A. & Eastop. D. (1998). Cousens S. Second Sight: Further Investigation into the Construction of Ecclesiastical Embroideries and Tapestries in The Getty Conservation Institute (eds.) The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries (pp. 49-51). Los Angeles: The Getty Conservation Institute, pp. 118-137
  21. Rosso King, R. (1985). Textile identification, conser- vation and preservation. New Jersey: Noyes publi- cations
  22. 빙허각 이씨, 정양완 역 (1992). 규합총서. 보진재
  23. 河上繁樹 (2004). 染織品の修理. 日本の美術2. 453. 至文堂
  24. 澤田むつ代 (2006). 法隆寺寶物館の染織品と修理について. 한국복식, 24, pp. 7-38
  25. Leene, J.E, eds. (1972). Textile Conservation. Inter- national Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works. London: Butterworths
  26. 문화재관리국 (1994). 복식 보존처리 보고서(1992 - 1994)
  27. Ryabova M.(Margaret). The Restoration of Old Russian Embroidery in Szalay, Z. & Balazsy, A(eds.),(1983), Restorer's-museologist's-scientist's common responsi- bility in the protection of museum objects; The restored object as a source of historical and tec- hnological information; Fourth International Restorer Seminar, Veszprem, Hungary, 2-10 July 1983 (pp. 161-168) Budapest: National Center of Museums
  28. Masschelein-Kleiner L. (1987). Summary of Discussion in The Getty Conservation Institute(eds.) The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries(pp. 1-3). Los Angeles: The Getty Conservation Institute
  29. Schoefer, M. & Lestoquoit, D., The Restoration of Twelfth-Century Liturgical Sandal at the Musee Historique des Tissus in Lyons. op. cit., pp. 41- 47
  30. Timar-Balazsy, A. & Eastop, D. (1998). Cousens S. Second Sight: Further Investigation into the Construction of Ecclesiastical Embroideries and Tapestries in The Getty Conservation Institute (eds.) The Conservation of Tapestries and Embroideries (pp. 49-51). Los Angeles: The Getty Conservation Institute, p. 406
  31. 오준석, 노수정 (2007). 경상북도 안강 행주 기씨 묘 출토 직금단 치마와 저고리 보존처리. 복식, 57(9), 한국복식학회, pp. 67-75
  32. 유효선 (2003). 파평윤씨 모자 미라 출토복식 중 금직류 및 소품의 보존처리. 파평윤씨 모자 미라 종합 연구 논문집 2. 고려대학교 박물관, pp. 183-212
  33. 배지혜, 박지선 (2006). 진주류씨 합장묘 출토 금사호표흉배(金絲虎豹胸背)의 보존처리. 진주류씨 합장묘출토복식 안성대덕면무능리. 경기도박물관학술총서, pp. 68-73
  34. 조효숙, 이은진 (2006). 진주류씨 합장묘 출토직물에 관한 연구. 진주류씨 합장묘출토복식 안성대덕면무능리. 경기도박물관학술총서, pp. 76-113
  35. 유효선, 박미진 (2004). 사모의 보존 처리에 관한 연구. 韓國服飾, 22, 단국대학교, pp. 61-84