• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.1
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• pp.85-110
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• 2022

This study investigates the production and use, development of Buncheongsagisang-gamunryongmunho, focusing on Buncheong Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(龍樽) in the early the Joseon Dynasty. The Buncheong Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(龍樽) which is the size of a large bottle as high as 50cm is a form of stability to have gorgeous decorativeness with the inlaid and stamped pattern. The Buncheongsagisanggamunryongmunho is the Buncheong Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(龍樽) used for Flower Vessels(花樽) at Royal Ritual in King Sejong(世宗) era. In the 1420s and 1430s, made in Premium ceramic factory of Sangju-mok, it is Blue and white porcelain in reference to dragon and cloud patterns in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties in aspects of shapes and patterns, to the inlaid Celadon in the period of Late Goryeo Dynasty in aspects of patterns, and to Joseon porcelain in aspects of shapes and decoration techniques. The Joseon Royal family found out the appropriateness of the founding of the dynasty and the base for the system of civilization from Ming dynasty, to follow Ming dynasty by choosing white porcelains as the King's vessel. Jars passed down from Emperor Ming served as a standard for Royal Ritual Jars, to use Blue and White Porcelain Jar with dragon and cloud patterns as Flower Vessels(花樽) and Liquor Vessels(酒樽) for ages. Consequently, the Buncheong Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(龍樽) as Royal Ritual Jar had been used till 1430's when Blue and white porcelain Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(靑花雲龍白磁酒海) was passed down from Emperor Ming, Xuande Emperor(宣德帝), only to lose its Meaning and Use as the Royal Jar with dragon and cloud patterns(龍樽) during the early Joseon Period gradually.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.56 no.4
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• pp.24-37
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• 2023

This study analyzes the materials and external characteristics of the Angbu-ilgu, a kind of scaphe sundial, which was newly designated as a Korean Treasure in 2022. The Angbu-ilgu Treasure is owned by three institutions - the National Palace Museum Of Korea, Gyeongju National Museum, and Sungshin Women's University Museum - and is similar as a twin in its material, size, outward appearance, as well as production techniques that include casting, silver inlays, and metal joints. The Three-Treasure Angbu-ilgu is made of brass in the ratio of 90.6: 6.0: 1.8 with Cu: Zn: Pb. This composition clearly differs from Treasure No. 845, an Angbuilgu which has a composition ratio of 82.2: 3.7: 11.8 with Cu: Zn: Pb. In this new Angbu-ilgu Treasure, the hemisphere's stand has four vertical pillars sculpted in a dragon pattern and bilateral wings carved in a cloud pattern on the pillars, which are joined to the hemisphere's horizontal ring with rivets and silver solders, respectively. The dragon-in-clouds pillar (雲龍柱) shows the most outstanding formative beauty of the various Angbu-ilgu pillars produced in the late Joseon Dynasty. It can be seen that the altitude of the north pole engraved on the Angbu-ilgu was made after 1713. Production is, however, actually estimated to have occurred close to the 19th century, the era of the Jinju Kang family, who were professional Angbuilgu makers. Hopefully, this study will lead to a historical science and technology review with modern scientific instruments analyzing the materials and external characteristics of the three Angbu-ilgus designated as a Korean Treasure in 2022.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.940-948
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• 2000

This paper analyzed the collections of Dries Van Noten and found the influences of oriental ethnic costumes. The oriental looks which he had shown in his collections are followings : Largely, the menswear designs of Van Noten took the concept of an easy and loose style which is a common shape in oriental ethnic costumes. Especially various transformations of layered look were found in his collections. Design ideas of Van Noten's womenswear style included variations of a sarong style, a kimono style, and etc. Also in his womenswear collections, various styles of layered look were shown. He often used lustrous fabrics like satin, brocade, and damask which are driven from the oriental region. His collections had Chinese dragon-or flower-pattern, Japanese geometric pattern, and Indian henna pattern. The patterns were embroidered or gilded.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.1-12
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• 2001

An empirical review on silk fabrics of the Chosen period showed that they varied in kind and design according to their uses. Thus the purpose of this study is to classify the fabrics into temple and excavated fabrics according to their uses and collected places and then to examine characteristics of each type. Concerning fabrics collected in temples. satin was most used, followed by twill, tabby, multiply, leno and gauze and clossing fabrics in order. Tabby and silk fabrics used Ju(紬) as their main material. Cho( ) was much more used in fabrics collected in temples than in excavated ones. This indicate that Cho( ), more luxurious than Ju(紬), had divine applications such as covering Buddha s bones of temples. Brilliant, colorful multiply fabrics using goldern and color threads had high effects of ornamenting altar covers, umbrellas, surplices and palanquins. Fabrics held in temples adapted composite designs, in which more than two shapes were used, rather than single ones. Single designs employed plant shapes in most cases. followed by treasures pattern, geometrical, cloud and animal shapes in order. Most composite designs used a combination of animal and plant shapes, followed by plant and geometry, treasures pattern and plant, cloud and animal, and animal, treasures pattern and plant in order. Few excavated fabrics used animal designs while fabrics collected in temples were often designed with shapes of propitious animals such as dragon. Treasures pattern. representing a good omen of Buddhism, was often used sing1y or sometimes compositely with another design.nother design.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.27 no.3
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• pp.185-196
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• 2016

This study is about watching the changes in Modern and Contemporary ages, through Traditional Ottchil Painting analyzed the formative characteristics presented on 23 pieces of Najeon Master Bong-Ryong Kim. He restored and reproduced the Ottchil Painting Technique by making Najeon ware (lacquer ware inlaid with the mother-of-pearl) on the Korean Modern and Contemporary period. The formative characteristics of his Ottchil Painting Technique are as follows. He used a lot of the Myochilchaehoi Technique as the technique of expression, along with the Najeon Yanggam Technique mixed with Myochilchaehoi Technique. The frame material of Ottchil Painting Ware is handcrafted wood. And in the painting foundation, red is presented more than black. The colors of painting and the pattern drawn on the foundation of Ottchil painting are mainly bright red, blue, yellow, black, and white (five-color). The main pattern used is the dragon, and the subordinate patterns are clouds and Arabesque. Also, the main pattern is solo, and the subordinate pattern is mostly an arrangement combination of radiation symmetry. This style of art was most commonly used for painting fruit trays. As stated above, Bong-Ryong Kim presented various and masterful aesthetic quality based on sincere and exquisite Najeon ware production skills.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 292 undergraduate women students of Taegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that had measured by 5 scale method. And then they had two groups which are interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group in Korean traditional style. Also, preference of Korean traditional patterns was measured by 5 scale method. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Analysis was by frequency, percentage, and mean. For difference of groups analysis was by t-test. The results were as follows:1. For the survey, 53.8% showed the interest and 40.4% did the preference for the traditional patterns. There was the positive correlation(0.782) between the degree of the interest and preference. 2. Among twenty traditional patterns, the patterns of plants and nature were very preferred, but the patterns of geometrical things was not preferred. 3. For the nature pattern, the image seemed to be elegant and feminine(womanly). For the plant pattern, the image seemed to be feminine, neat, weak, light and mild. For the animal pattern, the image seemed to be heavy, gorgeous, deluxe, virile(manly), strong and active. Last, for the geometrical pattern, the image seemed to be elegant, deluxe, rigid and strong. 4. Between the interest／non­interest groups, there was the significant difference in pattern of cloud, mountain, lotus flower, plum blossoms, orchid, dragon, chinese phoenix and bogy. Especially, for the orchid pattern, the preference difference between these groups was large. 5. For the plant pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the elegant-rustic image. Especially, the interest group evaluated as the elegant image. 6. Between the preference／non­preference groups, there was the strongly significant difference in the preference for the orchid pattern. 7. For the geometrical pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the mild­cold image. Especially, the preference groups evaluated as the cold image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.37
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• pp.149-162
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• 1998

This study is thed Embroidery, Cross-stitchery, Weaving, Wax-Printing of technique and design appeared in textile of Miaos dwells in south-west among the minority people of china. The study is as follows. First, the technique of textile1) satin stitch, couching stitch, french-knot stitch, etc. using anther silk thread or cotton thread color 2) cross-stitchery 3) hand-weaving technique which is shaped other warp or weft using simple loom 4) the technique of dyeing of pattern using effect with wax. These methods are singly used mixing together, therefore doubled beauty. Second, these technuque of ornament have other independence, specially ornament apron, sling, sleeve borders, slack borderss, edge of upper garment, take off and put on easily, heighten effect of various ornament, can preserve many years. Third, Maker, female born in this country fashion by need of herself, used liberal method shown in unique creativity of life. This texture make standards capable female proud of intelligent and skill of herself. Fourth, Design appeared in textile like as pattern flying bird in the sky, strolling beast in the field, lion rolling gem, laughing dragon winding snake at gem, birks, flowers, fish, butterfly is used as the wish of long life, a lucky sign. They expressed creativity and unique conception using formation : the technique transform other shape using by omitting or adding or overestimating. Geometric pattern of tartan, revealing, Fifth, composition structure having balance and symmetry or contradiction towards center and circumstance of the center harmonized repeatedly method, expressed unique artful attraction by full composition.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.