• 복식
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• 제67권2호
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• pp.68-87
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• 2017

The New Look, which Christian Dior presented in 1947, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary fashion designers, as well as designers for the House of Dior, and has a great influence on them. The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look and the New Look that Christian Dior House designers reinterpreted. The subject and the scope of this study were limited to Christian Dior and the New Look designed by Gianfranco $Ferr\acute{e}$, John Galliano, and Raf Simons who are regarded as worthy successors. The research method was a literature review on previous studies on Christian Dior and related literatures to examine the history of the House of Dior and the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look presented by Christian Dior. Then, an empirical study was conducted through the analysis of collection photographs from 1989 to 2016 that were gathered from the Mode et Mode and Hi Fashion, and websites (British Vogue, Firstview). The results of the study were as follows. First, the aesthetic characteristics of Christian Dior's New Look in 1947 used femininity to express an elegant and beautiful woman, structural property to render the contours of a woman's body, and innovation that changed the formal and gloomy social atmosphere in the post-war years. Second, the aesthetic characteristics of the New Look by Christian Dior were compared with those of the New Look made by designers for the House of Dior. The elegant femininity of Dior can be seen as gorgeous femininity, and sensual femininity, minimalistic femininity, structurality is represented by the spatial structurality of Dior and $Ferr\acute{e}$, the organic structure of Galliano, and the orthodox structure of Simons. Moreover, Dior's retro innovativeness appeared to be $Ferr\acute{e}^{\prime}s$ androgyny innovation, Galliano's deconstructive innovation, and Simons' romantic futuristic innovation.

• 복식
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• 제56권8호
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• pp.123-137
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• 2006

Christian Dior has been standing to a good position in fashion and make-up for a long time, and it has been growing up continuously. The purpose of this study was to find out data that a point of view on sensibility. So first, this study analyzed image components of Christian Dior fashion, then this study examined aesthetic characters of Christian Dior fashion. For researching the image of Dior based on an historical consideration of Dior, subjects were fixed in this study. 1) Analyzing image components of Dior fashion 2) Examining image characters of Dior fashion 3) Researching consumers understand how to image of Dior fashion. The study was theoretical and established method; using more than a graduate student-major in clothing and make up, survey$(2004.5\sim6.)$ and SPSS 10 program statistics method. As the results, in Dior fashion, this study analyzed the factors of shape, color, material and texture, and that indicated character of chic, classic, gorgeous and romantic image on the foundation of elegant beauty. As consumers understood that as a same image. By analyzing the image as an emotional side, it could be fundamental data of emotional marketing for Asian.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권12호
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• pp.1582-1594
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• 2005

이 연구의 목적은 패션디자인에서의 형태의 중요성을 이해하는 새로운 시각을 제시하는데 있다. 뵐플린과 드롱의 이론을 바탕으로 Flat St Rounded, Closed & Opened 과 Part & Whole의 세 가지 형태를 보는 시각을 가지고 Vionnet와 Dior 작품에서의 형태미를 분석하는데 적용시켜 고찰해 보았다. Vonnet와 Dior은 그들의 디자인에서 형태와 구조를 디자인의 기본원리로 하여 기하학적인 형태를 그들의 디자인에 적용시킨 디자이너들이다. Vionnet의 10작품과 Dior의 11작품을 선정해 Belong의 visual priorities diagram을 적용시켜 각 디자이너 작품의 형태미를 고찰하고 비교해 보았다. Vionnet는 의복과 인간의 신체 사이의 관계를 통해 새로운 형태미학을 창조해 냈으며 그녀의 작품은 2차원 또는 3차원이라는 공간의 차이에 따라 형태의 전위를 보여주는 독특한 형태학적 특성을 보여주고 있다 그녀의 작품은 2차원의 공간에서는 평면적이고 닫힌 형태인 삼각형, 사각형, 원으로 구성되어 있으나 바이어스 재단에 의한 입체재단 방법을 통해 3차원의 공간에서는 입체적이고 열린 형태로의 형태변형을 한다는 특징을 나타낸다. Dior의 작품은 인체의 자연스러운 형태보다는 인위적인 형태미를 보여주고 있으며 이는 Vionnet작품과의 커다란 차이점이다. Dior은 3차원의 공간에서 구, 각기둥, 원기둥, 각뿔, 입방체와 같은 입체 기하학의 형태를 사용하여 의복의 형태를 만들어 냈고 이는 다아트 변형, 보닝, 개더, 턱, 플리츠, 셔링과 같은 구조주의적인 기술을 통해 실현되고 있다. Dior의 작품은 3차원의 공간에서 인체의 형태와는 무관한 의복 자체만의 형태를 가지고 있으며 이는 입체적이고 닫힌 형태적 특성을 가진다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권9호
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• pp.1374-1385
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• 2009

This study focuses on three points. First, how designers develop clothing and cosmetic culture (which reflect time and culture) into other fashion products in order to verify that attire and makeup can be the objects of aesthetics in addition to functionality. Second, why the fashion design of Christian Dior has been continuously popular for women of all ages and countries in the development of fashion, attire, and makeup. Third, this study analyzes how the aesthetical characteristics of the fashion of Christian Dior are reflected in clothing and cosmetic culture in order to clarify the brand outlook on attire and makeup as a source of France's luxury fashion industry. The philosophical characteristics of Dior's fashion were studied based on existing literature. First, her childhood background (that became the motif of Dior's design) and the philosophical ideology of fashion design, perfume, and beauty were the focus of this study. Second, this study examined how consciousness on beauty expressed in hairstyle, perfume, and cosmetics is expressed in connection with clothing. Third, the background with which Dior's fashion and perfume business became successful is examined in addition the necessity of the image strategy for success in the cosmetics market was studied. Domestic and international books on clothing and cosmetics, preceding studies, the internet, and related magazines are utilized to consider the cosmetics and beauty fashion of Dior. The results of this study show how Korean fashion and cosmetic culture can further globalize. This study encompasses the period of 1905 when Christian Dior was born until 1957 when he died of a heart attack; it also deals with well-known designers of the Christian Dior House from Yves Saint Laurent of 1957 to John Galliano of the present.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2003

Modern Haute Couture represents artistic views through its image. symbol, and originality. Haute Couture's original art has been kept as a design technics which is the fusion of timely, original Maison's concept, plastic beauty as designer's personality. Christian Dior's maison continued by Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferr'e and John Galliano who emphasize elegant image which has avant-garde trends came from post modernism. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design which can be symbolized by the feature of timely variation and new feeling of continuing designers has the following originalities. 1. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design has been affected by the timely art-trends. 2. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design concept is represented as Nobly Chic Elegance. Feminine Elegance. Sophisticately Chic Elegance, Fantastically humourous Elegance therfore, the traditional concept of Elegance are maintained. 3. Christian Dior Haute Couture's design technic not only emphasizes the details of collars and up side of clothes or trimming but also persuits the total beauty of balanceness with the harmony of the evenness between other factors.

• 복식
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• 제51권8호
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• pp.43-49
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• 2001

Galliano's works showed at Dior Collection in 1997 which was held for the 50th anniversary of New Look got a good evaluation in the sense of expressing the modern taste as well as reflecting the spirit of Dior. The purpose of this study is focused on observing how to adapt the Dior's spirit. to Galliano's own design and what is the factor to let us feel his works modern. Galliano's fifty works in that Collection are analyzed by content analysis. The result is as followed : Galliano created his fabulous and modern works by four ways such as using various ethnic details, new way of fabric usage, new construction. and differentiated color harmony from Dior's. This result also includes the methodological model to adapt to design process.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.716-726
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• 2020

This study presents methods and alternative examples for fashion brands to effectively use video-based communication channels to form brand identity that analyzes the definition, status and type of YouTube channel fashion films as well as enables the ability to derive brand identity characteristics. Literature studies focused on Christian Dior's official website and related previous studies. The temporal range of the case studies was from October 7, 2010, the date when the first fashion film was uploaded to current Christian Dior YouTube to July 17, 2020 (the survey date), and there are a total of 550 subjects for quantitative analysis. The succession of the couture spirit means that Christian Dior's craftsmanship was created and passed down by Musée Christian Dior to act as a contemporary key element of brand identity. The iconic expression of femininity is Dior's core design philosophy that began when the woman image of a new era was presented through a new look, and Dior's femininity means a woman that reflects the character of the times as is interpreted as her own personality from the perspective of modernism through the creative directors of future generations. The brand's core identity code 'Miss Dior' expresses the brand's vision and eternity through perfume as well as targets Z generation male consumers through an emotional approach based on forms that used emotional images such as movie-type films.

• 복식
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• 제59권5호
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• pp.115-134
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• 2009

This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.

• 복식
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• 제59권6호
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• pp.126-139
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• 2009

The following study from the perspective that the identity of a brand is determined by the creative work of the designer, will review the design identity of fashion house, which have maintained a basic concept of couture house until recently. For this purpose, first, the concepts of fashion house and identity could be examined, and then the design identity of both the past couture designer and the present house designer could be comparatively analyzed. This study focused on John Galliano of Dior, and was carried out under the method of document study and case study. Based on this, the analytic results of the design identity of fashion houses are as follows. The design identity of fashion house, which has its origins in the past couture house, appears from the house characteristics, design characteristics and the design image. The original design identity of Dior House seems to be feminism and elegant extravagance, which naturally models the body line of women into diverse lines. The new design identity of Dior House by Galliano, while reflecting wit and fantasy, at the same time is expressed as sexy and romantic elegance which attempts to express the beauty of modern women. The pursue of chic elegance, which is the characteristic of early Dior design, have changed into avant garde and unique designs with tendencies of multi-culturalism due to the most recent house designers. Finally, Dior house design has successfully maintained the master of handcrafted quality based on craftsmanship, the history from the house archive, and the modern trends appropriately added by the creativity of Galliano.