Journal of Fashion Business (패션비즈니스)

The Korean Society of Fashion Business (한국패션비즈니스학회)
권호 표지

A Study about the Characteristics of Designs in John Galliano Collection - focusing on Christian Dior's Collection -

존 갈리아노 컬렉션의 디자인 특성에 관한 연구 - 크리스찬 디오르의 컬렉션을 중심으로 -

  • Lee, Kwuy-Young (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Cho, Kyu-Hwa (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 이귀영 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과) ;
  • 조규화 (이화여자대학교 의류직물학과)
  • Published : 2009.06.30
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

Keywords

References

  1. 조규화 . 이희승 (2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.251
  2. Gerda Buxbaum. (1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich, London, New York : Prestel Verlag, p.168
  3. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. N. Y.: Rizzoli
  4. 조규화 . 이희승 (2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.427
  5. 조규화 . 이희승 (2004), 패션미학, 수학사, pp.241-245
  6. Daniel Bell ,(1976), The Cultural Contradictions of Capitalism, N.Y.:Basic Books, pp.36-38
  7. John Naisbitt . Patricia Aburdene, (1990), Megatrends 2000, N.Y.:William Morrow & Company. Inc., p.29
  8. Alvin Toffler, (1984), The Third Wave, N.Y.:Bantam, pp.45-60
  9. naver 백과사전, (검색일 2007. 12. 31.), 자료 출처 http://dic.search.naver.com. '키드(kid)'와 '어덜트(adult)'가 합성어로, 20-30대의 어른이 되었음에도 불구하고 여전히 어린이의 분위기와 감성을 간직하고 추구하는 성인들을 일컫는 말이다
  10. Alvin Toffler, (1984), The Third Wave, N.Y.:Bantam, pp.247-248
  11. 조규화 (2007), "일본 패션의 미적 특성에 관한 연구", 패션비즈니스, 11(4), pp.232-246
  12. Valerie Mendes . Amy de la Haye. (1999), 20th-Century Fashion, London: Thames & Hudson, pp.252-273
  13. Gerda Buxbaum. (1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, N. Y. :Prestel Verlag, p.168
  14. 조규화 . 이희승 (2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.250
  15. "John Galliano's Wicked, Wicked Cut: the designer of the moment dishes it out - interview with Fashion Designer John Galliano-Interview", findarticles, Retrieved September 11, 2006, from http://www. findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m1285/is_n9_v24/ai_15729163
  16. "John Galliano", Hello Magazine, Retrieved September 11, 2006, from http://www. designmuseum.org/design/john-galliano
  17. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.72-80
  18. 조규화(1995), 복식사전, 경춘사, p.151
  19. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.78-83
  20. Valerie Mendes . Amy de la Haye. (1999), 20th-Century Fashion, London: Thames & Hudson, pp.220-251
  21. 1980년대 당시 영국의 의류업체들은 패션 전문가, 저널리스트들, 바이어들의 관심을 끌기 위해 개별적인 컬렉션보다는 매년 4월과 10월에 패션 워크를 시작했다
  22. Colin McDowell. (2000), Fashion Today, London.: Phaidon, pp.379-383
  23. Valerie Mendes · Amy de la Haye. (1999), 20th-Century Fashion, London: Thames & Hudson, pp.220-251
  24. "Design in Britain. John Galliano, Fashion Designer 1960", Design Museum, Retrieved November 29, 2006, from http://www. designmuseum.org/design/john-galliano
  25. 1983년 디자이너 레벨의 패션산업을 위한 산하 조직으로 결성된 영국 패션 협회(BFC: British Fashion council)는 1984년 "올해의 영국 디자이너 상 (British designer of the yearawards)"을 제정했다
  26. "Who's who, John Galliano", Vogue(London), Retrieved November 29, 2006, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/whos_who/John_Galliano
  27. "John Galliano", Hello Magazine, Retrieved September 11, 2006, from http://www.designmuseum.org/design/john-galliano
  28. Colin McDowell. (2000), Fashion Today, London.: Phaidon, p.166
  29. "John Galliano", Wikipedia, Retrieved September 11, 2006, form http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Galliano
  30. Valerie Steel(1997) Fifty Years of Fashion : New Look to Now, Connecticut : Yale Univ. Press, p.152
  31. "Trend meets Classic", Gap Press(2001 S/S), Tokyo :Gap. Co., Ltd., Vol.34
  32. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.46-51
  33. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.73-75
  34. Andrew Tucker. (1998). The London Fashion Book, London.: Thames and Hudson. p.1178
  35. "Christian Dior", Mode et Mode(2007 S/S), Tokyo : Mode et Mode Sha. Co., Ltd., pp.20-41
  36. Matthi Forrer. (1991), Hokusai, London:: Prestel, pp.56-57
  37. Colin McDowell. (2000), Fashion Today, London.: Phaidon, p.111
  38. "Con Immancabile Fantasia with The Usual Imagnation!", Book Moda(1999 S/S), Milano : Moda Information., Ltd., p.71
  39. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.91-195
  40. "Irresistible Fun-Fashion", Book Moda(00/01 F/W), Milano : Moda Information., Ltd., p.294
  41. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.72-80
  42. "John Galliano", Vogue(1995 S/S), N. Y. :The Conde Nast Pub., Ltd., p.182
  43. Andrew Tucker. (1998). The London Fashion Book, London.: Thames and Hudson. p.207
  44. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, p.45
  45. Gerda Buxbaum. (1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich, London, New York : Prestel Verlag, p.168
  46. Gerda Buxbaum. (1999), Icons of Fashion : The 20th Century, Munich, London, New York : Prestel Verlag, p.102
  47. "Christian Dior", Book Moda(2005 S/S), Milano : Moda Information., Ltd., p.170
  48. "Christian Dior", Mode et Mode(2005/ S/S), Tokyo : Mode et Mode Sha. Co., Ltd., pp.82-98
  49. 조규화 . 이희승 (2004), 패션미학, 수학사, p.397
  50. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, pp.32-33
  51. Charlotte Seeling. (2000), Fashion-The Century of The Designer. 1900-1999, Cologne: K$\ddot{o}$nemann, p.255
  52. Charlotte Seeling. (2000), Fashion-The Century of The Designer. 1900-1999, Cologne: K$\ddot{o}$nemann, pp.266-267
  53. Charlotte Seeling. (2000), Fashion-The Century of The Designer. 1900-1999, Cologne: K$\ddot{o}$nemann, p.474
  54. "Christian Dior", Mode et Mode(05/06 F/W), Tokyo : Mode et Mode Sha. Co., Ltd., p.84
  55. "Fashion's Frontier", Vogue(97/98 F/W), N. Y. :The Conde Nast Pub., Ltd., p.350
  56. "Fashion's Frontier", Vogue(97/98 F/W), N. Y. :The Conde Nast Pub., Ltd., p.41
  57. "Christian Dior", Book Moda(05/06 F/W), Milano : Moda Information., Ltd., p.111
  58. Colin McDowell. (2000), Fashion Today, London.: Phaidon, pp.340-383
  59. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, p.33
  60. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, p.115
  61. Colin McDowell. (1998), Galliano. New York: Rizzoli, p.116