• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.36-50
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• 2024

This study aims to explore the potential of integrating traditional Indian motifs into modern textile design that appeals to the MZ generation. The objective is to create patterns that reflect the rich cultural tapestry of India while aligning with contemporary sensibilities. To achieve this, the design process includes a comprehensive literature review on the historical background, symbolism, and structure of Indian textiles and a survey to determine if the developed design suits the preferences of the MZ generation. Digital design tools such as TexPro, Photoshop, and Illustrator were used to create the designs based on the theme 'Cosmic Dream,' with sub-themes inspired by nature and Indian symbolism. 'Blooming Cosmos' focused on the structural beauty of the lotus, combined with paisley and rangoli patterns, for a vintage yet modern appeal. 'Cosmos in Blossom' is drawn from the rangoli technique of using varied materials, resulting in a romantic pastel-themed pattern that aligns with the 2023 Youth Trend. 'Cosmic Peacock' presented a lively ethnic pattern by merging simplified lotus motifs with India's national bird, peacock along with a paisley backdrop. A questionnaire was conducted to check the MZ consumer responses, and the most preferred design was the peacock and rangoli mixed design, ground colored in cream. These findings indicate the potential of the developed ethnic designs to be used for various purposes. By combining traditional motifs of India with modern elements, this study proposes ethnic textile designs that are suitable for MZ generation consumers.

• 제어로봇시스템학회:학술대회논문집
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• 1987.10b
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• pp.324-328
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• 1987

In this study a computer-aided textile pattern design system is implemented and a control methodology of a dobby motion is studied. The described system allows the user to design various weave patterns through graphic editor and to simulate weaving by displaying the dummy weaving process on the monitor. In addition, if the yarn colors are specified it is also possible to analyze color weaves. Thus it can replace effectively a conventional. design tool, a design paper. The main features of the system are to design weave patterns, to show weaving effect, and to make lifting plan for the dobby motion control. In dobby motion control, the mechanical. control method conventionally used is not adequate for the loom which is linked with the computer-aided textile pattern design system, so an electromagnetic control method is proposed.

• Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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• v.42 no.7
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• pp.1001-1008
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• 2012

Purpose: The purpose of this study was to identify the characteristics of anger expression in middle-aged Korean women by categorizing their patterns of expression while considering the complexity and multidimensionality of anger, and by investigating the characteristics relative to the patterns. Methods: The research design was a descriptive design using Q methodology, which is a method of measuring subjectivity. A convenience sample of 42 participants aged 40-60 years and living in the community in Korea was recruited. The PC-QUANL software program (a factor analysis program for the Q technique) was used to analyze the Q-sort data. Results: Four factors were extracted that described different expressions of anger among middle-aged Korean women; these factors explained 50.1% of the total variance. The frames of reference of the four factors were a) direct diversion, b) silent masking with remaining anger, c) self digestion, and d) controlling anger with objectification. Conclusion: In this study has identified patterns and characteristics of anger expression among middle-aged Korean women were identified, which will aid the development of effective anger-management programs for controlling anger in this population. In future studies, it would be helpful to investigate how the patterns of anger expression established herein are associated with specific health problems such as cardiovascular disorder and cancer.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.215-233
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• 1999

The Miaos have their own peculiar and luxurious transtional culture a they have experienced repeated fusion into and resistance againt the Han Race or the chinese in their long and old history. And the traditional culture of the Miaos is abundant and diverse in several respects. Because it has taken root in foundation of their simple and native environment. it is embracing abundant and diverse contents. They largely used as the theme of patterns factual materials such as natural objects easily accessible in the natural environment. those related to marratives reflective of ethnicity, animals and plants symbolic of auspicious omen, peace, happiness and good harrest with prosperity and abundance. And they not only crossornamented natural patterns and geometrical patterns by combining them but also geometric patterns alone. It can be seen that Miaos represented patterns with exaggerated formation, overlapping and modification and the comprehensive, fomation of natural forms, abstract formation etc. Seeing the ethnic costume of Miaos investigated in these several respects by the standard of contemporary beauty it is thought that it has the infinite possibility of being used in contemporary fashion design on account of the characteristic of almost perfect costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.105-115
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• 2008

Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.110-128
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of Chinese shadow puppetry costumes. Literature study and case analysis were conducted using books, research papers, and materials from the Xi'an shadow puppetry museum. Based on the Chinese traditional costumes, the shape characteristics are utilized with the intaglio and embossing techniques, and the complex and unnecessary details are omitted to express the costume image in a characteristic and simple manner. Second, colour was used according to the traditional Chinese symbolic colour concept, and the brighter the colour, the higher the role's status. The colour was also used to express identity and character. In addition, relatively vivid and highly saturated colours were used for the transparent effect of the shadow puppetry. Third, a role's status is indicated by the density and completeness of the patterns; the higher the role's status, the more complex and sophisticated the patterns, and the lower the status, the simpler the patterns or no patterns are used. Fourth, the faith for blessing expressed in the shadow puppetry is a representative folk auspicious culture. The repertoire of the shadow puppetry and the patterns on the costumes worn by the puppets, express the culture in an implicit way to symbolize the meaning of auspicious things.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.100-111
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• 2010

'Pattern' is the term that is frequently used in the aspects of history, society, and science. It always appears in the remains or relics of the age of civilization when recording was started, and its evaluation and value differ by time. Patterns in the ancient civilization were symbolic, social, and spatially crucial. However, after the modernization, they were considered to be immoral and unnecessary, so the range of their significance came to reduce. Due to the development of science, ornament patterns lost the limitation of its range of use along with new interpretation of them. Especially with the advent of new scientific theories such as the evolution theory from the biological aspect, quantum mechanics, and super string theory, morphological possibilities more than the human scale perceived by men came to be discovered. Living organisms maintain their lives through patterns, structures, and processes in order to produce a system alive. Among them, patterns are the organization of relations determining the characteristics of the system. The present patterns may correspond to this meaning. The pattern in a space is the matter of how to relate the components after all. In a space, however, there are numerous components mingled with one another. If these tasks are conducted as analogue work, it will take a lot of time and effort. However, if digital media are utilized to perform the tasks like analysis, generation, or fabrication, it will produce a result with higher precision and efficiency. In this sense, parametric modeling is quite useful media. Opening morphological variation, it realizes more possibilities, connects conveniently the relations between complex components composing a space, and helps produce creative patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.101-111
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the features of the conversational patterns presented on the fashion in the early 2000's and analyze it from cultural view. The expression of the patterns is a result of a creative aesthetic activity, mental activity, and the reflection of the common cognition. And the fashion is a part of the life environment. So the patterns presented on the fashion provides a clue to figure out the common unconscious sense for explaining the culture. The patterns have been expressed with different methods belonging to each culture such as weaving and prints. And those of the each cultural group have been communicating each other. The silk came to the Europe in the 6th century. The textile industry which flourished since 15th century. And they shows the chinoiserie or indian prints, not only the european culture. We can observe that the exchange of the techniques and cultures between cultural groups like the east and the west, and the presentation of the patterns is a way to express their own desires. The patterns presented after 2,000 can be classified by the form and the contents. But, more specifically, the patterns classified by the contents, which is Conversational design, can be categorized as followed according to the origin; reflecting cultural identity, Popular culture, Lohas lifestyle, and art movements. Which can be summarized as that the people have more interest on the different cultural group, diversity, retrospectiveness, and exoticism, which the patterns originally belonged to than on the form itself.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.