• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.407-421
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• 2015

This study examined the pixel's expression trend and nature featured in contemporary fashion, which works as a basic unit symbolizing the digital image, paying attention to its formativeness. The work through this process aimed at suggesting an opportunity for recognition about pixel image utilized as a formative component beyond its simple meaning of unit and providing the fundamental materials for usage in creative fashion design reflecting the digital emotion in the future, In research method, literature review was followed on pixel and the empirical study about its image was also performed that was found in the modern fashion. As a result, the trend in pixel has these characteristics. Its first nature lies in its plane expression. It was printed as mosaic or graphic grid image or expressed through patchwork technique. Also, rather than a certain form or figure, its unique image was emphasized according to the applied color, size, and position. Second, a stepwise pattern in pixel was applied to external format for part of clothing, eye glass and necktie, indicating some interest and wit. Third, in application to plane and external shape, the graphically modernized effect was realized, not to mention the illusive image with cubic expression. As shown, the characteristics in contemporary fashion via pixel expression were given in fantastic image, optical humor, and reflection of digital value.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.562-570
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• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.1
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• pp.28-41
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• 2016

This paper is aimed at intensively examining the scope of legal protection for fashion designs under the Design Protection Act of Korea. For this purpose, this looked into how the Act defines the concept of design, its requirements, and the prerequisites for acquiring design rights. The study also reviewed statutory interpretations over the judgment of the identity and similarity of designs. For more practical and substantial discussions, this research utilized cases and precedents, which had relevant legal principles. This study also figured out how both the requirements for a design definition - such as merchantability, configuration, visibility, and aesthetics - and the prerequisites for acquiring design rights - like industrial applicability, novelty, and creativity - are interpreted and utilized in actual circumstances. The authors expressed their opinions regarding the criteria of judging the identity and similarity of designs, based on a study of previous cases. Previous rulings show that aesthetics of the exterior design is used as the criteria for determining whether a design is same or similar. So, two designs, which have different specific details, are deemed same or similar, if both designs show similarity in the dominant elements. This is because both designs will produce similar aesthetic qualities. However, if the dominant elements of a design are part of the public domain, and the specific details characterize the design, the latter has to be evaluated in the process. This paper examined scope of legal protection for fashion designs using relevant precedents. The study may serve as academic materials that lead to the establishment of rightful ownership in creative activities.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.9
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• pp.1430-1440
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• 2009

This study is on the abstract expressionist techniques among the art activities variously expressed in modern fashion. Its significance lies in making fashion artistic through the combination of fashion and art in contributing to the development of creative fashion culture. In terms of method, documents are used to characterize the concept of abstract expressionism, the works of representative artists, and the panting techniques in relation to modem art based on existing literature. Fashion-related anthology, domestic, and foreign fashion magazines were used to analyze the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion since 2000. According to the findings, the abstract expressionism applied to modern fashion showed artistic expressions with the abstract beauty by chance, using only the images or techniques similar to those in abstract expressionism. Expressionist works had abstract and dynamic images, as they were given a third dimension through the process of being worn on the human body. Second, details or decorative factors were excluded to ensure the maximum space for expression, modem images were displayed using the simple forms such as silhouettes (spacious or dense) and the beauty of harmony was shown that had beauty emphasized by the expression effects of textile design, the division of space, and the composition of colors. Third, the action painting techniques in modern fashion were used for textile designs printed on the surface of clothes, and the dynamic character of the design was shown by the duplication and juxtaposition of stains created by chance. The color field abstract techniques were shown through printing, texture, and dying, in addition the intense and pure abstract images were displayed by treating clothes like large screens.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.59-68
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• 2007

"Aloha" is the Hawaiian word that extends the warmth friendliness, and pride of the Hawaiian people to their island's visitors. The aloha shirt truly symbolizes aloha sprit to islanders and visitors alike. The earliest foreign settlers in the Hawaiian Islands were the Chinese and Japanese. They brought with them their myriad talents and trades, among them the art of tailoring. In July of 1936, a shirtmaker named Ellery J.Chun coined the term "Aloha Shirt" an apt characterization for such an eloquent garment. He was the first to make the shirt on a commercial basis. The shirt sold for as little as a dollar in Chun's own King-Smith store. The genuine aloha shirt is now regaled as a work of art and avidly sought out by collectors. When tourism came to Hawaii in the late 1930s, these unusal shirts were among the first thing that visitors had to have. Local designers and tailors worked quickly to meet the demand and began to expand the range of decoration to include palm trees and romantic beaches, tropical jungles and volcanoes, exotic flowers and scenes from polynesian legend. Therefore the aloha shirt had been born. The functional use of creative colors and amazing artistic renderings in these shirts certainly capture the simplicity and sprit of Hawaii. Aloha shirt is dress that display mystery and charm of Hawaii and cultural symbol of condensed Hawaiian mind. Furthermore, the innocence with which Hawaiians formerly translated their life and heritage onto fabric ranks these shirts with the finest of American folk art. Aloha shirt is made from cotton, silk, rayon in present and past. Most important design element of Aloha shirt is print pattern. Main print pattern of Aloha shirt are all over pattern, horizontal pattern, border pattern, Japanese pattern, picture pattern and back panel pattern. In this study I investigate the design characteristics and development process of aloha shirt.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.2
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• pp.52-67
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• 2017

This is the precedent study on the modern fashion design using Korean emotions, and its aim is to study the expressions in the modern fashion based on 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' idea from Korean dancing, which implicates the Korean emotion deeply among the artworks and give essence similar to the clothing. 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', a unique idea, in the Korean traditional dancing is the philosophy that involve the paradox expression, 'Movement in Silence,' which represented the emotion of Korean dancing for a long time. The main characteristics deducted in 'Jeong-Jung-Dong' were 1) the incomplete and complete by atypical, 2) the beauty of temperance by symbolism, and 3) amusing mutual relationship. Upon the analysis results of previous studies on the expressions in the modern fashion with 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', they demonstrated the atypical expressed by metaphor, symbolic expression through margin, and mutual relational table by harmony. The analysis of modern fashion expression by 'Jeong-Jung-Dong', which is a philosophical idea in the Korean dancing, could highlight the new way of looking at the clothing and systemize the theory on the Korean emotion to seek the effective expression of artistic features for the culture together with introduction of our unique emotion in the creative design process by understanding of humanitarian and philosophical ideologies to be utilized in the future Fashion Design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.78-92
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• 2008

The mutual relationship between fashion and architecture and the similarities in their form and structure have been continuously debated over the decades, considering that both spheres are objects used in human life. Both spheres bring about the creation of three-dimensional space structures that are completed by the human body and material, based on a design targeted for people. The similarities between fashion and architecture in terms of form and structure have been debated by western architecture scholars focusing on the support that holds the garment's shape, the tailoring of a men's suit and also the material. The debate originates from the discussion of F. Th. Vischer, Kritische Gnge, and Gottfried Semper during the nineteenth century on the similarities between crinoline and the form of architecture and also the similarities between sewing and architecture. However, architects always regarded fashion as the inferior creative process that follows architecture in viewing the relationship between fashion and architecture. During the mid to end of the twentieth century, contrary to previous decades, the sense of fashion in architecture stood out, as an issue and a different approach was taken in discussing architecture that incorporates fashion. Accordingly, in the mid 1990's, architecture scholars such as Deborah Fausch and Mark Wigley began to conduct close observation of the mutual relationship between fashion and architecture from a more equal point of view. Notwithstanding, their point of view was still biased towards architectural standards. Commencing the Millennium, fashion has become the primary work of creation which leads style in all spheres, and under these circumstances this point of view has transferred from architecture to fashion when thinking about relationships between these spheres. The discussion on fashion and architecture form fashion's point of view is currently concentrated on the post 1990's phenomenon and illustrates the environment that is related to architecture. In general, the discussion is limited to determining a work of an individual designer as 'being architectural' when explaining the sculptural form of fashion. Therefore, this research aims to renew the discussion on twentieth century fashion design, which was neglected in any studies on observing architecture and fashion. The aim of this research is to classify the architectural paradigm of twentieth century fashion design and to observe the architectural forms of the respective eras. It is necessary to have a close observation of the architectural paradigm in twentieth century fashion design where support tools such as the crinoline was avoided and the form and functionality of the garment itself was emphasized. I will conduct this research by considering the architectural form shown in fashion as a practical three-dimensional creation that exists in space.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.78-94
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• 2008

Contemporary fashion is experiencing a rise in design that combines heterogeneous things, or goes beyond the roles, boundaries, and meanings of existing things. This can be described as a 'heterogeneous fusion' that is different in character from the mixed use of heterogeneous materials, borrowed designs, and exaggeration of the silhouette that have been practices in fashion design, or the non-structure, deconstruction, and recombination that have existed since the age when post-structuralism was a central philosophy. This 'fusion' causes a 'confusion' of the generally accepted mental principle of 'one sense reacting to one stimulus', and breaks the boundary between the various senses, causing confusion in the senses of the individual, and leading him or her to experience unfamiliar feelings. In this process, all information received from external sources is not perceived as it is seen, but rather is perceived through a fusion of the individual's motivations, the environment in which it is perceived, the resulting change in emotion, and the individual's past memories. The combination of these heterogeneous elements visually accepted, or such a non-territorial combination acts as a 'fusion of senses' in the individual's perception, which causes confusion in the homeostasis of perception, and a change in emotion, and serves as a factor that causes the information to be stored in the memory for a long time. In parallel with deconstruction or non-structure, the 'heterogeneous fusion' found in modern fashion is taking root as a representative creative trend, and is represented in various forms such as the mixed use of subjects and materials, non-territorial borrowing, fusion with animal forms, fusion with non-physical geometry, and fusion with heterogeneous hair decoration.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.39-49
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• 2012

This study looked into the trend of expression of animal motifs that appears in modern fashion, and the values embedded in them. As to the research method, empirical analysis was performed on the works presented at the four global collections of Paris, Milan, New York and London from 2001S/S to 2010F/W, as well as a literature review. As a result, animal motifs applied in modern fashion appeared in material groups, such as leather or feather. The first group shows a realistic material feel, with artificial leather or fur, expressed in a transformed complex animal motif, with process skill or various methods of expression. The second group is the case of a single motif or reality, mode, and ion pattern. Printing is a generic expression, but patchwork, collage or bead ornament are also used, and expressed in the various forms of pattern: pattern in a single animal, pattern in different animals, and pattern combining both animal and other shape. The third group is a small decorative ornament, including headset or accessory and makeup, which is transformed in an animal-characterized motif into part of clothing components for expression, or to set the real animal to the stage for a performance. The embedded values were also categorized as natural beauty, sensual female beauty, pleasure, and ornamentation, which could be an endless spiritual source, and a breakthrough that enables us to show a creative and new aesthetic for the modern fashion field.