• Title/Summary/Keyword: costume remains

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Research on features of eco-friendly fashion products for the development of typology of eco-friendly fashion products (친환경 패션제품 유형분류체계 개발을 위한 친환경 패션제품 특성 연구)

  • Eunah Yoh
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.32 no.1
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    • pp.86-107
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    • 2024
  • Although interest in eco-friendly fashion products is increasing among scholars and industry leaders, the concept of eco-friendly products remains unclear, preventing consistent assessment of which fashion products are eco-friendly. This study conducted a content analysis of eco-friendly product information from 87 domestic and 102 foreign brands to reveal key standards for categorizing eco-friendly fashion products. Product characteristic information was coded according to the four material-based standards (i.e., organic material, regenerative material, alternative material, and sustainably produced/upcycled material). Consistency between coders was confirmed by Cohen's kappa. In results, eco-friendly fashion products are categorized by four material-based standards and two certification standards (i.e., certified, not certified). Among the four material-based categories, the greatest number of domestic and foreign companies produced eco-friendly products that were classified as the regenerative material group. In addition, companies acquired eco-friendly certifications related to the use of organic, regenerative, and alternative materials. The greatest number of eco-friendly material brands used for eco-friendly fashion products belonged to the regenerative material group. Based on the study results, a typology of eco-friendly products was suggested. This typology can benefit practitioners and academics by highlighting a need for classification system for the eco-friendly fashion products, as well as by providing insight into the categorization of eco-friendly fashion products.

Analysis of Dyes and Mordants of 16~17th Century Textiles Excavated from Daejeon (16~17세기 출토염직품의 염료와 매염제 분석)

  • Baek, Young-Mee;Kwon, Young-Suk;Goto-Doshida, Sumiko;Saito, Masako
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.28 no.2
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    • pp.119-129
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    • 2012
  • Excavated textiles provide very important research data on the costume culture of the Joseon dynasty. In particular, dyed textiles are indispensable for textile conservation research and for restoration of remains as well as for general costume culture research. Unfortunately, a prolonged burial environment causes the colors to change and gradually fade after excavation. Therefore, it is very difficult to identify the original color. In this study, natural dyed samples of red, yellow, purple and blue were prepared and analyzed using HPLC-PDA. Dyes of colorants extracted from excavated textile remains were analyzed by HPLC. In addition, mordants were analyzed using (SEM-EDX) in order to estimate the original color. The 16~17th Century's three samples were analyzed, sample 1, and 2 from Eunjin Song's Song Mun-Chang excavated at the Songchon-dong in Daejeon, and sample 3 from Yeosan Song's Song, Hee-Jong excavated at the Mokdal-dong in Daejeon. From the HPLC results, alizarin, purpurin, and indigo were detected on sample 1, alizarin and purpurin on sample 2, ellagic acid and indigo on sample 3. Therefore they were dyed with madder and indigo (sample 1), madder (sample2), pomagranted and indigo (sample 3). Al mordant was identified on three samples.

The Cleaning of Costumes of Yeosan Song's Family Excavated at Mokdal-dong in Daejeon (대전 목달동 출토 여산송씨 출토복식의 세척)

  • Baek, Young-Mee;Kwon, Young-Suk
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.25 no.2
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    • pp.219-231
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

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Expression Methods and Compositions of Peony Patterns in Chinese Textiles (중국 직물 모란무늬의 표현방법 및 구성형태에 관한 연구)

  • Qiao, Dan;Lee, Eun-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.1
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    • pp.101-116
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    • 2010
  • In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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A Study of the Commercial Function and Characteristic of Fashion Illustration - a domestic research - (패션 일러스트레이션의 상업적 기능과 특성에 관한 연구 - 국내를 중심으로 -)

  • 성광숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.50 no.7
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    • pp.165-179
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    • 2000
  • This research centers on studying the function and characteristic of fashion illustration for advertisement and publication which is, among plenty of fashion illustration's functions, the commercial one. Here are some purposes of the research. First, it presents the function of fashion illustration. Second, under the contemporary circumstance of specialization and subdivision. It givers people the better understanding of fashion illustration by providing a variety of its classification bases other than the typical, simple grouping of style drawing and fashion illustration. Third, this research helps fashion illustration establish itself as commercial art by showing how fashion illustration is utilized in the field as a part of the fashion industry. The methods and contents of the research are described that the concept of fashion illustration, characteristic, classification bases and commercial function are presented and than the data of fashion illustration which hale been used as goods since 1990 in the nation are selected in order to analyze the media for the application of fashion illustration. its expression methods, factors and images. By doing so, advertising fashion illustration are much less than those of published fashion illustration and even most cases of advertising fashion illustration are related just to poster advertisement such as magazines, fashion events or public subscription. The published fashion illustration isn't also attracting the public since it focuses on fashion information books, fashion magazines or fashion -clothing books. Another finding is that the expression style of fashion illustration is not various or distinctive. The expression remains in the trends of painting, figurative drawing, sometimes adopts post-modernism which is reflected in popular cartoon and figures exaggerates or simplifies the human body. The image of fashion illustration is simple. casual or feminine in the rough. For the development of commercial fashion illustration, it is required to produce fashion illustrators, not works but goody, with various concepts appealing to the public.

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A Study on Man's Boots of the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 남자용 화에 관한 연구)

  • Kwak Kyung-Hee;Hong Na-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.1 s.100
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    • pp.44-55
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of man's boots in the Joseon Dynasty and compared them with those of the Ming and Qing Dynasty to find the influential relationships between them. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty are divided into several kinds such as Heukgwejapihwa, Hheuksapihwa(黑斜皮靴), Heukpihwa(黑皮靴), Mokhwa(木靴), Hyeopgeumhwa(挾金靴), Suhwaja (水靴子), Jeonpihwa, Gijahwa(起子靴), and Baekhwa(白靴). In addition, Jeong(精: footwear) was put inside boots. They tend to be named according to their materials or ornaments on them. First, Jeong put inside the boots is regarded as footwear for the comfort of the feet or protection against cold. Mokhwa appears in literature around the 19th century. As shown by remains and paintings of those days, it is considered to have become the common name of boots as it underwent many changes. On the other hand, a book in the era of King Gojong includes pictures of Suhwaja. Compared to Hukpihwa in the same book. The topside seems to have been raised in order to make the wearer who put on a military uniform feel comfortable when walking, since the bottom piece is hard. Baekhwa is worn not only with funeral garments but also with Sibok(時服), one of official uniforms. Boots in the Joseon Dynasty had been made following the design of the Ming Dynasty since official uniforms were conferred upon King Gongmin in the late Koryo Dynasty. But turning the late Joseon Dynasty its detailed design changed little by little. The topside of the boots became more round, the entrance part became wider, height of the shoes became taller, and the bottom piece became parallel to the ground.

Absence and Resemblance of Romantic Style in Modern Fashion (현대패션에 나타난 낭만주의 양식의 부재와 유사)

  • Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.1
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    • pp.94-108
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    • 2011
  • The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.

A Study of Pop-art Fashion, from the 1960's to the Present (2000년대 패션에 나타난 팝아트의 특성 연구)

  • Choi, Soo-Ah;Kim, Min-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.8
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    • pp.137-157
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    • 2008
  • The purpose of this study is to acquire clear understanding of classic Pop art, and furthermore, how it evolved within the art and fashion industries in relations until present days. Throughout the studies, it was inevitable to find that there needs to be additional traits to Richard Hamilton's famous quote regarding the definition; "Pop Art is: Popular, transient, expendable, low cost, mass produced, young, witty, sexy, gimmicky, glamorous, big business." Distinctively, though Pop art is continually evolving, sustaining, costly, authentic, and, adaptable for all ages. Pop art's varying influence continued, and Neo-pop, Japanese Neo-pop, les Nouveaux pop, Post-pop art appeared with progression. These transformed Pop arts share similar contexts with the Classic Pop art; and yet, it is inevitably more narrative, and has diversity in sources and expressions. If the Classic Pop art's been mostly flourished in the United States, new Pop arts are well established in various countries with individualities. Indeed, Pop art influenced the fashion world with attempted young and sexy looks with pastiche characters. In the 1960's, "Mods", "Teddy Boys", and "Hippie" styles became popular, and fashion trend started trickling up. Various usages of fabrics and uncommon materials were popularized due to the advanced technology and Pop art. Recently: 1) classic Pop art's been directly applied to fashion, 2) it's been reflected in more various motives and techniques 3) Neo-pop artists and designers wire involved with collaborative efforts. Undoubtedly, Pop art still remains popular for those who seek for fun; and so-called "Kidult" and "Peter-Pan syndrome" are closely correlated to the fundamentals of Pop art.

Design Development of Golf Wear Textiles utilizing Geometric Patterns (지오매트릭(Geometric) 패턴을 응용한 골프웨어 텍스타일 디자인개발)

  • Jung, Hyung-Ho;Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.6
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    • pp.11-22
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    • 2010
  • Purpose: The purpose of this study is to develop golf wear textile design, produce simulation and samples, and create original designs using geometric patterns. Significance: If modern people's trend to pursue well-being is be associated with healthy and active lifestyle and the design which combines a sport sense into artistic image appears in golf wear, it is a very significant effort to settle the role of sport as a mega trend. Contents: This study examined the general concept of geometric patterns and the situation and characteristics of women's golf wear. Finally, the design and simulation of gold wear textile were proposed. Study Instruments: For theoretical research, articles, books, literatures, and Internet materials published at home and abroad were reviewed and collected. For empirical research, a dot, a stripe(a line), a square, and an oval were selected and simulation was tested visually after the development of textile designs. Finally it was directly produced and golf wear design was developed. Photoshop CS 3 and Wacom intuos 3 were used as a general-purpose program and hardware respectively. DTP printing was used for sample work. Based on research results, geometric patterns range broadly and diversely from prehistoric remains and relics to contemporary art, design, architecture, and fashion. It is a unique formative element with value and attraction as the infinite object of inquiry beyond an area and the times. The combination of geometric patterns with art touch could complement the rigidity of design. It contributed to the perception of important role of art in the design area, namely, the importance of design containing artistry.