• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.44-51
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• 1996

The accurate calculation of run-up heights of long waves along the coastline is important in the view of engineering. In this paper the run-up heights of long waves are estimated by using the cnoidal wave theory which also covers both sinusoidal and solitary waves. However, the generation and the calculation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves are difficult both in laboratory and numerical experiments. In this study, the maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves on steep slopes are computed by using the boundary integral equation model. It has been shown that the run-up heights of cnoidal waves are less than those of solitary waves, while they are larger than those of sinusoidal waves having the same wavelengths and heights. The variation of run-up heights of cnoidal waves is not a monotonic function of the wavelength. However, the run-up heights of cnoidal waves asymptotically approach that of a solitary wave as the wavelength approaches infinity. The calculated run-up heights agreed reasonably with experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.3
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• pp.227-232
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• 1995

A new evaluation procedure for calculating the Jacobian elliptic parameter is presented. This procedure is useful in calculating the trajectory for cnoidal wave generation. Upon specification of water depth, the wave height and either the wave period or the wavelength, the presented algorithm uses the Newton-Raphson method and the arithmetic and geometric-mean scales to calculate the profile directly, without trial and error procedures or look-up in tables. It is shown that the algorithm provides equally accurate result as the ad hoc methods previously used.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.169-179
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• 2017

In this study, we applied the wave generation method by relaxation method to the SWASH model, which is a non - hydrostatic numerical model, for stable and accurate wave generation of linear and nonlinear waves. To validate the relaxation wave generation method, we were simulated various wave, including the linear wave and nonliner wave and compared with analytical solution. As a result, the incident wave was successfully generated and propagated in all cases from Stokes waves to cnoidal wave. Also, we were confirmed that the wave height and the waveform were in good agreement with the analytical solution.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.41-49
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• 2019

We approximately obtain heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer Boussinesq equations (Vu et al., 2018) and the two-layer Boussinesq equations (Huynh et al., 2017). For cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the heights of waves passing through a high-crested breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the heights of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the cnoidal wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.51-57
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• 1990

Based on second-order Stokes wave and parabolic approximation, a refraction-diffraction model for linear and nonlinear waves is developed. With the assumption that the water depth is slowly varying, the model equation describes the forward scattered wavefield. The parabolic approximation equations account for the combined effects of refraction and diffraction, while the influences of bottom friction, current and wind have been neglected. The model is tested against laboratory experiments for the case of submerged circular shoal, when both refraction and diffraction are equally significant. Based on Boussinesq equations, the parabolic approximation eq. is applied to the propagation of shallow water waves. In the case without currents, the forward diffraction of Cnoidal waves by a straight breakwater is studied numerically. The formation of stem waves along the breakwater and the relation between the stem waves and the incident wave characteristics are discussed. Numerical experiments are carried out using different bottom slopes and different angles of incidence.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.43-47
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• 1980

In this note the characteristics of ocean waves is reviewed from standpoint of practical application. To describe the ocean wave in mathematical terms many wave theories have been developed, each under some different aspects. Among well-established wave theories the gravity wave theory and the cnoidal wave theory are examined by a mathematical principle. Finally valid range of each theory is suggested for its numerical evaluation.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.274-281
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• 2002

Numerical analysis for the Bragg reflection due to a sinusoidally and a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabeds was performed by using a couple of ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. Incident waves are a train of cnoidal waves. The effects of the dispersion and shape of seabed were investigated. It is shown that the reflection of a sinusoidally varying seabed is enhanced by increasing the dispersion and the amplitude of a seabed. The reflection of waves over a doubly-sinusoidally varying seabed can also be enhanced by increasing the amplitude of seabed decreasing the difference of wave numbers of seabed components.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.32 no.4
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• pp.447-455
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• 1999

In this study, the Bragg resonant of cnoidal waves propagating over a sinusoidally varying topography lying on a uniformly sloping beach is investigated. The governing equations derived from the Boussinesq equations are numerically integrated. The effects of fast varying terms and nonlinearity in reflection coefficients are also examined. Variation of reflection coefficient for different sloping beaches is studied. It is found that reflection coefficients are not strongly dependent on slopes of beaches.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.32 no.6
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• pp.649-655
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• 1999

The maximum run-up heights of periodic waves are numerically investigated in this study. Incident waves are sinusoidal and enoidal waves. The maximum run-up height of enoidal wave approaches that of sinusoidal wave as the wave length decreases, while it approaches that of solitary wave as the wave length increases. If wave height is fixed, the maximum run up heights of enoidal waves are always greater than those of sinusoidal waves but smaller than those of solitary waves.