• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.101-116
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• 2010

In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).

• 복식
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• 제65권5호
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• pp.103-112
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• 2015

This study examines the fashion illustrations textbooks that have been published in the domestic market, and identifies its characteristics and problems in regards to its use in developing creative students. The purpose of the study is to propose ways to improve the development of the fashion illustration textbooks. The research method of this study are as follows: First, the teaching materials on fashion illustration in Korea were researched to examine the current state of publication. Second, its contents were analyzed to identify its characteristics. Third, an improvement plan of educational materials on fashion illustration in Korea were proposed. As for the scope of study, 18 volumes of fashion illustration teaching materials published in Korea during 2004-2014 were targeted. It should be noted that translated publications, digital fashion illustration materials and teaching materials for specialized and professional organizations were excluded. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, examination of the textbooks revealed that additional content is needed regarding theoretical understanding of fashion illustration, as well as illustrations of men and children, as there was an insufficient amount of those topics. Second, the contents on the illustration application using current trends were lacking in the unit on illustration application. Accordingly, it is necessary to develop contents that reflect these trends. Lastly, the textbooks should be packaged with compact discs CDs containing video clips to assist students to get a better grasp of the material. The result of this study can be used to develop new teaching materials on fashion illustration, and be utilized as basic information in the curriculum design of fashion illustration.

• 복식
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• 제61권7호
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• pp.35-50
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• 2011

In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.

• 복식
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• 제57권7호
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• pp.53-69
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• 2007

Advertisements create the illusion about the ideal body utilizing body beauty as well as come to influence in formation of the social beauty standard. Commodity advertisements using the body have been considered as the most effective advertisement method because of the fluidity and the dynamic, which are understood as organic body's characteristics. Especially, advertisement strategies utilizing body painting draw customer's attention because of the properties liberally performed on the living body. This thesis attends to study on the J. Deleuze's 'becoming' Phenomenon expressed in body painting, and to analyze about the body becomes fashion and commodity and is positively utilized as effective advertisement tools. J. Deleuze's 'becoming' Phenomenon expressed in advertisement utilized body which painting is classified as follows as; becoming fashion of the body, becoming commodity of the body, becoming advertisement sign board of the body, becoming animals and plants of the body, and becoming image of the body. The result of this study on the J. Deleuze's 'becoming' Phenomenon expressed in advertisements utilizing body painting shows multiple commodity's characteristics in order to satisfy with customer's various anxieties being changed continuously, and represents the characteristics of 21C advertisements utilizing the body being changed any other thing. Consequently, this thesis is aimed at new consideration about the body beauty, which has been extended to other sphere.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.67-82
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• 2014

This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer's works published in the world's big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.

• 복식
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• 제63권6호
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• pp.56-68
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• 2013

A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.264-274
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• 1999

최근에 사용되고 있는 남성용 정장 중, 여름용 30종, 겨울용 30종 등 총 60종을 시료로 하여 이들의 온열특성 중 보온성(무풍시=0.2 m/sec 이하, 풍속시=1.2 m/sec)과 이와 관련된 물성, 즉 공기투과도, 무게, 두께 등을 측정 및 분석하여 앙상블 및 가먼트의 보온성을 예측하는 회귀식을 개발하였다. 그 결과로는 일반적인 남성용 정장의 물성으로 두께 및 무게는 겨울용이 높았으며, 여름용과 겨울용을 확실히 구별할 수 있는 인지는 공기투과도였는데 여름용의 공기투과도는 겨울용보다 약 3~6배 정도 높았다. 남성용정장의 온열특성을 보면 겨울용 정장의 보온성이 여름용보다 높았고, 풍속이 있을 때 앙상블의 보온성은 최대 30% 정도 감소하는 경향을 나타내었다. 또한, 정장상하의 물성을 독립변수로 하여 가먼트 및 앙상블의 보온성을 추정하는 회귀식을 개발하였는데, 회귀식분석결과, 정장앙상블의 보온성에 영향을 주는 인자는 두께, 무게, 및 사이즈로 나타났다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.335-341
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• 2008

This study aims to present the basic information on ready-made clothes production for middle-aged women by examining the clothing-related problems due to the body-shape changes of middle-aged women, and accordingly analyzing the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes among the 40-50's women. For this study, a survey was conducted to find out the satisfaction level with the purchasing and size of ready-made clothes. Among the total of 450 copies of questionnaires, 443 were collected, 400 of which were used in the analysis leaving out the rest imperfect ones. SPSS 11.0 Program was used in data analysis to get the frequency and percentage of each item. As for the preferred styles according to the age, respondents aged 45-49 preferred sweaters and trousers most, while most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. As for the preferred styles according to occupations and body figures, most of middle-aged women preferred blouses and trousers most. The findings of this study examining the actual conditions of ready-made clothes purchase and wearing, and size satisfaction among the 40-50's women, who will be at the center of the aging populations in the Super-aged society highlight the need to correct the problems of adherence only to the prices, measures, and aesthetic aspects of fashion trends, to meet the requirements and preferences of ready-made clothes for aging women, and fulfill satisfactory functions according to the body figures in the upcoming Super-aged society.

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제15권7호
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• pp.351-358
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• 2017

본 연구는, 기존의 전통적인 패션쇼를 근간으로 빠르게 발전하는 컴퓨터 그래픽 기술을 접목, 새로운 형식의 패션쇼로 최근 연구되는 디지털 패션쇼를 위한 가상 한복 제작과 관련된 연구이다. 한국의 대표적인 전통의상을 소재로, 디지털 패션쇼를 진행하기 위한 가상의 한복의 제작을 위하여 필수적으로 적용되어야 하는 재질들을 분석하고, 사실성 검증을 위하여 전문집단 그룹을 통한 사용성 통계를 진행하였다. 이를 위해 선행연구로 가상 한복 제작에 요구되는 세 가지 필수 재질인 두께, 무게 그리고 색상을 정리한 후, 3D 한복의상을 제작하여 실재 복원된 한복 의상들과 비교, 40명의 피실험자들의 평가를 기준으로 만족도를 조사하여 사용성 통계수치를 통한 분석연구를 진행하였다. 최종적으로 사용성 통계의 분석을 통한 매우 긍정적인 만족도 결과는, 향후 디지털 패션쇼 가상의복의 제작에 필요한 구체적인 재질분석 가이드라인을 제시함에 본 연구의 목적과 의의를 두었다.