• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.485-500
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to develop the formal wear for social activity of dwarf. Second investigation for choices of designs based upon data from the first questionnaire investigation, led us to make proposals for design, pattern production, garment-cutting and dressmaking. The effect of wearing the made-up garments was carefully evaluated in order to establish principles for the development of clothes for dwarf. Conclusion is as follow. Dwarf felt uneasy in conventional street dress. When buying clothes their most important criteria was design wanted clothes that would help them to look taller. Analysis of design preference to complement perceived physical weak points revealed: 'a pink ensemble' comprising of a high-waist, one-piece dress, and a black slacks suit comprising of a striped, single-breasted, tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse. It was found that a bolero jacket and a high-waist, ankle-length, one-piece dress helped create an optical illusion of increased height, for both the wearer and an observer. A pastel ton-pink, one-piece also created this effect on small bodily types, as well as offering a silky, mellow attractiveness. A suit of a striped, single-breasted tailored jacket, and straight-type slacks and blouse, created the two fold illusion of disguising hip imbalance with the length of the jacket and drawing an onlooker\`s gaze to the wearer\`s face through the tailored collar, they also looked taller due to the stripes.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.11-19
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• 1981

The purpose of this study were: (1) to ascertain the labels, (2) to investigate the designs and materials of blouses, and (3) to analyze the prices. The period of observation was from April 1st to May 10th, 1981. The interviews with related producers and saleswomen and a questionnaire were used for this study. The questionaire was made with items after finishing the pretest. The observation of six observers was made in markets(group D). B), commercial agents manufactures (group C), and bontiques group D). For the statistical analysis, 120 blouses were used among 154 blouses which were examined. The results of this study indicated that: (1) Blouses with labels were 56.7% by group A and 100.0% by group BC and D. (2) In the styles of blouses, box style was popular I four groups. (3) Among various types of sleeves, set-in sleeve was popular in four groups. The most sleeves were finished with cuffs. (4) The shirtwaist collars were popular in group AQ and B, rippled collars and chinese collars I group C, and rippled collars I group D.(5) In thee materials of blouses, polyester was poplar I group A and B, polyester/cotton in group C, and cotton in group d. (6) The prices of blouses were from 4,500 to 15,000 won in group A, from 5,000 to 37,300 won in group B, from 12,500 to 52,000 won in group C, and from 30,000 to 90,000 won in group D.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.9-18
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• 2004

This study focuses on the medieval Mongol costume called YosunOja. This dress consists of a blouse and a skirt, and some lines on the waist part. The purpose of the study is to analyse the structural characteristics of this costume, especially on the medieval remains from the tomb Mingshui in the district of Neimenggu. It can be analysed that this costume has three structural characteristics, which are the functional structure, sumptuous one, and the idea of Buddhism. The functional structure consists of the style with a blouse and a skirt, which gives enough surplus for the movement, the back-slash for the ease of the riding, and the dart in the front line which eliminates unnecessary surplus. The sumptuous structure is the many lines of the waist which show the maximization of the decoration, the extraordinary long sleeves, and the use of the expensive gold brocade which shows the wealth of the dresser. And also, the cutting of the fabric into the numerous segment may mean the medieval Mongols believed in Buddhism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.8
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• pp.1052-1059
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• 1998

The purposes of the study were to analyse the colors and, color combinations effect on the image perception using gestalt theory. The research method was a quasi-experimental with a between subjects design. The experimental materials developed for the study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli was consisted of 17 drawings of females wearing Korean traditional dress, by using CAD simulation. A response scale consisted of semantic differential scales. The subjects were 1138 undergraduate students of Taejon city, Chungnam province and Chungbuk province. Their responses to the semantic differential scales were analyzed using factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncans multiple range test. Results were as follows; 1) The colors effect of blouse was significantly greater than the effect of skirt, and no interaction effect was found between blouse colors and skirt colors. 2) In bi-color combination dress set, the combined image of the two colors were compared to the image of the two mono color sets: No single principle was found, however, salient color (such as yellow) and unattractive color (such as green) seemed to act as central trait colors on the image perception. On conclusion the visual image of Korean traditional dress wearer was affected by central trait colors in bi-color combination, and this results support the gestalt theory with central traits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.528-537
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• 2007

The aims of this study was to provide useful informations to the uniform industries to promote the production of the functional and esthetical goods. The subjects of this study were the 243 department woman employees in Daegu City. The data were analysed through factor analysis, one-way ANOVA, Scheffe-test, $x^2$-test, and t-test. The result were as follows; The ages were from 20 to 50 years old, and their working divisions were clothing (46.5%), food (18.1%), miscellaneous (14.4%), daily articles (11.1%). The evaluation of characteristics of their uniform was somewhat unsatisfactory (2.65) and showed the significant differences among the age groups. The unsatisfaction of blouse materials (2.11) were the highest among the evaluation of the materials, and the inconveniency of sitting posture with folding knees were the highest (3.98) and showed the significant differences among the working division groups. The significant differences of the fitness were showed in the sleeve length of blouse, the length of vest, and the length of trousers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.147-165
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop design of maternity dress combined with nursing. Six maternity wears combined with nursing were developed through the literature, preceding studies, and web sites those were about pregnancy, breast feeding, a maternity wear, and a nursing wear. The results of this study were as follows: 1. In order to develop clothes of diverse styles and designs, an after five dress, a poncho style blouse, wrap culotte as well as a skirt suit, a pants suit, an one-piece dress were designed. 2. It was established to make more amounts of front ease than those of back ease and to supplement a frontal hanging portion in consideration of breast development and abdominal prominence. 3. In order to make use of a maternity wear after a birth, stretch fabric was used for an abdominal part or whole clothes. Also an empire line and pleats, a poncho style, a shirts blouse, and inserting a string were used for it. 4. the fabrics of cotton, mixed cotton, polyester were used because pregnant women and nursing mothers perspires more than others do. 5. The horizontal, vertical, diagonal slits for a breast feeding were made. The storm flap of a trench coat, a machine pleated fabric, a poncho, a bolero style were used for a nursing cover.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.85-108
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• 1994

This study intends to provide sources which enable students to satisfy uniform design as I surveyed preferable uniform design and degree of satisfaction of uniform design to students. The subjects were gathered into 91 middle-high schools and surveys were done among 400 school girls. The results are as follows; 1)The survey of uniform which students wear. For jacket, tailored collar which is single breasted is most common and for blouse, puff sleeve, soutein collar, shirt collar is common. For skirt, lastly, they usually wear side pleats skirt. 2) Thoughts of uniform students preferred uniform to casual. The merit of wearing uniform can represent themselves as the ‘students’on the other hand, the demerit is shown that uniform is inconvenient enough to move. 3)Preference of uniform design. Students prefer tailored jacket, shirt blouse, flare skirt. Basing on these results above, I’d like to suggest something about uniform. The demerit of wearing uniform lies in inconvenience. It would weaken the degree of satisfaction of uniform and have a negative influence on students in physical and mental side. So we have to find out the concrete problems, at the same time, develop measurable study which fit for body. Adolescence is period of developing and establishing self. So they really need rather creative educational atmosphere than stereo typed-control. Reflecting this opinion, Clothing habits can play an important role and in future it is desirable to have students wear not uniform but casual.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.163-170
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• 2019

This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 1980

When we design a dress, we should not only consider the esthetic sense and the relationship between movements of the body and the type of dress, but also the combination between the qualities and proper uses of textiles. recently the sale of ready-made clothes has been booming but I wonder whether they have been made in accordance with research concerning body movements and dresses. I would like to make the following observations on dresses, because I have personally suffered the inconvenience of restricted arm movements when wearing ready-made clothes. I have made four types types of foundations with muslin and Jersey, with these foundations I measured the degree of tension or how much the waist-line was drawn up then the arm was moved in increments of 45 degree angles and there by covering the entire span of vertical and horizontal movements. I have intended to experiment with sleeves of differing height in several ways. Concerning the movement factor, I have determined that with excessive activity vertical movements are twice as uncomfortable as horizontal movements. Concerning the faburic, I have found that because jersey has more elastic qualities than muslin, it has proven to be more responsive to body movements. concerning dresses, I have fund that the higher the height of the sleeves, the more uncomfortable it is to move the arms and the greater the degree to which the waist-line is drawn up. As a result this experiment I have made the following observations. Firstly, the vertical movement of the arms to a 180 degree angle has the most extreme influence on the breadth of movement of the waist-line. Secondly, because jersey permits freer body movements than muslin, it should be the preferred material for use in making sportswear. Thirdly, the formula A·H/4+3 of the sleev's cap height is suitable for making street dresses and formal wear. The formula A·H/5 and A·H/6 are properly used when making working clothes and sportswear, and the formula A·H/8 is proper for a sleeping garment and clothes for patients. Fourthly when deciding to any garments, it is important to consider the amount of arm movement anticipated and the relationship between the material and the degree to which the waistline is drawn up. In nder-blouse, when we raise our arms to the most extreme position, we should at that point still have 20∼25 cm of material remaining under the waist-line which includes the maximum of 14.1cm plus part of the blouse and breath of skirt's belt. In the case of the over blouse it is proper for us to have the length of 17∼20 cm remaining below the waist-line.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.