• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.55-64
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• 2012

This study aims to reinterpret formative elements of Baeja, by applying them to the design of modern clothing. The main objective of the studying Baeja is to propose unique layered look items that can be readily put together for various weather conditions and occasions, be easily wearable and bring out unique individualities. After carefully studying Baeja from Joseon dynasty, flexible and practical layered-look items are designed. The following are the conclusions drawn from the work. First, it is possible to apply Baeja elements, such as the silhouette, traditional materials, and colors, to modern clothes, for a layered-look. Second, Baeja characteristics have a profound potential for a modern layered-look design, in that it is sleeveless, its length is long at the front and short at the back, and it comes with slits on both sides and a wide belt. The items inspired by such characteristic can easily be worn over and draped around daily clothes, according to weather conditions and occasions. Third, many decorative elements of Baeja, including detailed ornamental method, knots, patchworks, and string decorations create a unique and traditional image in modern clothes. Ribbonswhich can adjust the width of clothes are both practical and decorative. A reversible jacket is created by utilizing the same traditional sewing method for both inner and outer fabrics. One item can be worn in different styles, which increases practicality. Fourth, traditional and modern materials go well together. Such methods can create an item with both modern sensibility and traditional chic.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.8 s.99
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• pp.57-72
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• 2005

Mongdueui(蒙頭衣) and mongduri(蒙頭里) in the Joseon dynasty was one of women's robe. The style of Mongdueui was same as Chinese baeja(褙子 $\cdot$ vest) having non-overlapping front opening with collar, This form was conformed through the wonsam excavated baeja from tomb of South Song dynasty. The basic construction was same as Joseon dynasty's except the collar. In the early Joseon dynasty the noble women wore Jangsam(長衫) as an outer wear, the common and lower class women wore Mongdueui, and the queen and royal household we baeja. The court lady wore baeja as well as Mongdueui for funeral ceremony. The style of women's robes was classified into two categories by the literature Byungwajip(甁窩集). The first was the hongjangsam(紅長衫長) in red for noble women. The other was the mongduri for the common lady. Whangchosam the outer wear of Jeongjaeyong(呈才女伶), a professional women entertainer, having non-overlapping front opening with collar, has been examined in the painting. And it had been evolved into the shaman's clothing in the last stage of Joseon dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.115-130
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• 2009

A kind of Korean traditional jacket, Baeja, has been a Korean traditional costume equipped with practicality and formative aesthetics from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. Accordingly, the researcher of this study highly valued a modern sense of Baeja with various types of design and forms and attempted to make efforts to apply it into modern life. This study provided a new direction in the modernization work of traditional costumes by creating fashion images newly interpreted corresponding to a modern sense and trend through the application of formative characteristics and noticeable elements via the coordination of traditional Baeja and modern costumes. On the one hand, it would be meaningful in terms of contributing to the activation of traditional Hanbok by providing people with ample opportunities to wear it in modern daily lives variously. On the other hand, the actual purpose of this study was to perform a modernization work for traditional costumes by attempting to conduct a crossover that could let people move into other areas freely, that is, a creative and innovative research associating the area of costume history and that of coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.8
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• pp.55-66
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• 2014

Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.3
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• pp.56-65
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• 2010

It is time to create an image of Korea that uniquely defines and represents the nation to the world, by incorporating Korean traditions with the cultural industry. To this end, it is important to see the beauty of Korean tradition from an academic perspective and further explore its utility from an industrial viewpoint. This study is intended to design uniforms for employees in Korean restaurants at hotels or docents in Korean-styled museums. In doing so, we eyed on Baeja, a Korean traditional vest as the cultural archetype, and created cultural products. As our archetype, we chose two pieces of Baeja : one excavated from the tomb of Suryun Sim (1534-1589) which is displayed in the Gyeonggi Provincial Museum, and the other from Byeon of the Jeonju Lee family (1636-1731) in Suk Joo-Sun Memorial Museum at Dankook University. We also adopted Dapho with a Korean traditional vest with long length. Based on these cultural archetypes, seven products were developed. With the traditional food and way of living in Korea being more and more recognized in the global stage, it would be continuous creation and development of cultural contents with history and story rooted in the cultural heritage of the nation that could enrich our culture by bringing traditions back to the modern days to incorporate the past into the present. It is important to restore traditions when developing cultural products. However, it is also critical to commercialize ideas with stoη and creativity in the market for cultural products.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.189-203
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• 2014

In this study, Creative motifs using face composition of Jogakbo and Knot Symbol were developed, and applied to traditional Baeja of Joseon Dynasty to develop design contents of traditional clothes. As for study method, 7 motifs of new formative image that integrates traditional beauty and contemporary sense were developed by applying Knot Symbols and face compositions of Jogakbo with the use of Adobe Illustrator CS6 and Adobe Photoshop CS6 vector graphic software. The motifs were designed in contemporary image in face compositions like rectangle pattern, triangle pattern, dual rectangle pattern, vertical and horizontal pattern, pinwheel pattern, gojunmun pattern and free pattern by involving various changes like repetition, rotation, reduction, expansion and decomposition and using the colors used in the Jogakbo. It is desired that through this study, traditional Baeja may develop to bear traditional and contemporary image so that our traditional clothes design may become global. Also it is anticipated that this study will contribute to development of culture products of Hanbok like Jeogori, pants and skirt that require change of design in the global era while maintaining traditional beauty to appeal to the emotions of world citizens.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.44
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• pp.117-129
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• 1999

Hudan Bangryung-Banbee was the name for a traditional dress which had a square neckline collar. Among Bangryung-Banbee, there was a particular style which, plus with the square neckline collar, had the half-length sleeve, bodice whose back length was shorter than the front. This kind of style shown a big difference from the typical pattern of traditional Korean costumes which had the V neck and had to fold the neckband of the clothes in Y-shape. This study focused on the analysis of the change of Hudan(後短) Bangryung-Banbee style. Bangryung-Banbee of the half sleeve/shortened back style had been usually excavated around the period of the Japanese invasion of Chosun dynasty(1592-1598). And up to now this kind of the costumes was never found before the fifteenth century or after the eighteenth century in Korea. Therefore it is thought that Bangryung-Banbee was worn widely in the middle of the Chosun dynasty. However, the shape of the collar and the length of sleeve and of dress were variously used, so it must be recognized that there existed much more diverse styles of Bangryung-Banbee than it was known today. But as the times passed away, the lined Bangryung-Banbee disappeared, and the collar of Bangryung-Banbee changed from square neckline to rounded Wonsam(圓衫) or Baeja(背子)-shape. And in the case of Bangryung-Banbee's front length, the original style disappeared, while a new style of longer back appeared.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.286-294
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• 2007

Dolbok, the first birthday suit, is a formal suit a person puts on for the first time after birth. It not only a symbolizes of Korean customs or traditions, but also represents transmitted ideas, values and lifestyles of Koreans. In this nation where strong preferences for son prevailed, dolbok for boy was specially important. 1.Styles of weaing Dolbok are classfied into trousers and jeogori, baeja, magoja, durumagi, jeonbok, sagyusam and yongpo styles in accordance with what kind of clothes was finally worn. 2. Accessories of dolbok for boys included dolddi, dol jumeoni, gulre, bokgeon, hogeon and tarae baeseon. 3. Dolbok of trousers and jeogori, baeja or magoja style simply consisted of 2 to 4 units of clothes. It was usually worn by ordinary people, and strongly imaged as common. Dolbok of durumagi or jeonbok style was a combination of 5 to 6 units of clothes and mainly worn by noble and royal families. It was remarkably formal, but quite brilliant. The suit for first birth anniversary which was sagyusam or yongpo was made in accordance with court rules and used by the royal family, It consisted of 7 to 8 units of clothes. Dolbok of sagyusam or yongpo style used invariable, simple patterns and colors, but had strong images of courtesy and dignity. 4. Regarding accessories of dolbok, the long-hanged goreum was a symbol of parental wishes for the $baby^{\circ}{\emptyset}s$ health and longevity and dolddi was joined by dol jumeonisymbolizing the wealth and prosperity of the baby. In addition, hogeon was a hat whose shape was the head of tiger symbolizing wishes for bravery and health and tarae beoseon was childlen's socks that had seams, symbolizing prosperity, on the fore edge. Seon for sagyusam was used as a symbol of preventing diseases or evil spirits to protect the health of the baby.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.701-708
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• 2009

The study aims to investigate women's clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang in Nara period of Japan to gain a clear understanding of the clothes of the ruling class women at that time. Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang was made in Nara period of Japan when Japan sent envoys and students to Tang, a dynasty of China, to acquire advanced civilization. At that time, Japan also fostered a strong international culture through the exchanges with neighboring nations. With this inflow of continental culture, Japan was dramatically advanced politically, socially, and culturally. The analysis of the clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang showed that she had her hair decorated with Bogye. She wore Ungyeon, Baeja, Daesui, and Tongsui as for her upper garment and Gun, Seub, and Peseul as for her lower garment. She also wore Bidae and Youngeon and put on Geummal and Seok on her feet. Overall, these results suggested that she wore Chinese style clothes. The clothes of Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sangwere very similar to formal dresses of high class women described in Yangroryeong. Some of her clothes were not shown in Yangroryeong because those clothes were added after Yangroryeong. Another reason may be due to the fact that generalized clothes could be worn even though those clothes were not described in the dress code. In conclusion, the clothes described in Gilsang-Cheonyeo-Sang suggest that they were based on the dress code of Nara Period of Japan while there were also some variations due to the cultural circumstances at that time.