• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2005.09b
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• pp.842-845
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• 2005

A method for the numerical simulation of two-dimensional free-surface flow resulting from the propagation of regular gravity waves over topography with arbitrary bottom shape is presented. The method is based on the numerical solution of the Euler equations subject to the fully nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions and the appropriate bottom, inflow and outflow conditions using a hybrid finite-differences and spectral-method scheme. The formulation includes a boundary-fitted transformation, and is suitable for extension to incorporate large-eddy simulation (LES) and large-wave simulation (LWS) terms for turbulence and breaking wave modeling, respectively. Results are presented for the simulation of the free-surface flow over two different bottom topographies, with constant slope values of 1:10 and 1:20, two different inflow wave lengths and two different inflow wave heights. An absorption outflow zone is utilized and the results indicate minimum wave reflection from the outflow boundary. Over the bottom slope, lengths of waves in the linear regime are modified according to linear theory dispersion, while wave heights remain more or less unchanged. For waves in the nonlinear regime, wave lengths are becoming shorter, while the free surface elevation deviates from its initial sinusoidal shape.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Safety
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.70-75
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• 2016

Recently, coastal erosion has been widely in progress and the erosion level becomes also serious in the world wide, espeically in East Sea in Korea. Since it would threaten the life, economics and security risk, it is necessary to much comprehend the reason why coastal erosion has occurred according to the geographical characteristics. Meanwhile, analysis about hydrodynamics of the solitary wave such as tunami in swash zone is needed for the best management practice of coastal erosion. Solitary wave is nonlinear wave and can be reproduced in the laboratoy scale by openning suddenly a sluice gate with water head difference, of which methodology was found in the literature, since it could be simply determined by a significant wave height. Thus, in this sutdy the generation of solitary wave was experimentalized using the sluice gate. Experimental conditions were classified by angles of a beach slope, a water level in a beach slope and a difference of water level between in a headtank and a channel bed. Two kinds of dimensionless analyses based from experimental results in this study were presented; the first analysis indicates nondimensionalization between the wave height and the water level in a beach slope in order to investigate characteristics of solitary wave approaching the beach. The second shows the other nondimensionalization between dynamic pressure and static pressure on a beach slope to investigate the relationship between wave breaking and wave pressure. Under the same conditions as laboratory experiments, the numerical results computed with a SWAN model embedded in FLOW 3D were compared in terms of wave height, and pressure on the beach slope, which shows good agreement with each other. Overall results from this study could provide fundamental hydraulic data for the reliabile verification of numerical simulation results about coastal erosion in swash zone caused by solitary waves.

• Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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• 2002.08a
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• pp.209-212
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• 2002

Since Berkhoff proposed the mild-slope equation in 1972, it has widely been used for calculation of shallow water wave transformation. Recently, it was extended to give an extended mild-slope equation, which includes the bottom slope squared term and bottom curvature term so as to be capable of modeling wave transformation on rapidly varying topography. These equations were derived by integrating the Laplace equation vertically. In the present study, we develop a finite element model to solve the Laplace equation directly while keeping the same computational efficiency as the mild-slope equation. This model assumes the vertical variation of wave potential as a cosine hyperbolic function as done in the derivation of the mild-slope equation, and the Galerkin method is used to discretize . The computational domain was discretized with proper finite elements, while the radiation condition at infinity was treated by introducing the concept of an infinite element. The upper boundary condition can be either free surface or a solid structure. The applicability of the developed model was verified through example analyses of two-dimensional wave reflection and transmission. .

• The Journal of Korea Institute of Information, Electronics, and Communication Technology
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.33-38
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• 2008

The baseline wander of ECG makes difficult to detect P-, Q-, R- and S-wave. This paper presents and compares two method to remove the baseline wander of ECG using slope traceing waves. For the first method that had been proposed already[1], the ascending slope tracing method is used to eliminate baseline wander. And the second method employs the contour of the approximated S-wave to remove baseline wander. These two methods are common to use the slope tracing wave. However, the first one is to get difference signals between the ascending tracing waves and ECG signals, and the other is to remove baseline wander using the contour of the approximated S-wave obtained from descending slope waves. To evaluate these methods, we apply to MIT/BIH database.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.303-308
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• 2003

In this paper, wave numerical modeling was experimented for the analysis of impact factors for the wave transmission as the incident wave and topographic conditions in the narrow channel sea. Recently, Although the results of many researcher for the wave modelling, numerical equations have limited to simulation of wave transformation effects. Despite of thispresent problems, the models was used to design the coastal structures in barrow channel sites. Finally, this paper estimated the wave model(mild slope eq. model) as the analysis of the wave energy transmission according to changing of impact factors(width of channel, bottom slope in channel, incident wave angle, wave period). As the results of numerical experiment, the major impact factors which influence to wave energy transmission were the width of channel and incident wave direction. But in the case that the width of channel is larger than 3L(L=Length of wave), the reduction of wave energy was small.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2001.10a
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• pp.138-143
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• 2001

Based on mild slope equation and parabolic approximation the forward diffraction of monochromatic waves by a straight breakwater are studied numerically. The characteristics and effects of stem wave along breakwater and the relations between the stem wave and incident wave angle are discussed.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.20 no.6 s.73
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• pp.35-40
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• 2006

In recent years, there's been strong demand for seawalls that havea gentle slope and permeability that serveswater affinity and disaster prevention from wave attack. The aim of this study is to examine wave transformation, including wave run-up that propagates on the coastal structures. A numerical model based on the weak nonlinear dispersive Boussinesq equation, together with the unsteady nonlinear Darcy law for fluid motion in permeable layer, is developed. The applicability of this numerical model is examined through Deguchi and Moriwaki's hydraulic model test on the permeable slopes. From this study, it is found that the proposed numerical model can predict wave transformation and run-up on the gentle slope with a permeable layer, but can't show accurate results for slopes steeper than about 1:10.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.202-208
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• 2001

Explicit approximation has been developed to estimate the run-up height on S-berm breakwater on the basis of Saville's hypothetical slope method. For the explicit expression of run-up height several relations are developed to represent the ratio of run-up height against breakwater slope with various conditions of water depth and wave steepness. For the verification of explicit approximation the results are compared with Saville's measurement data and simple expression of Delft Hydraulic Laboratory.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.103-107
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• 2004

Empirical equation has been developed by employing the new non-dimensional physical number 'wave action slope' for the estimation of breakwater armor weight. Van der Meer(1987) introduced Iribarren number for the same purpose, but his equation shows very different trend of distribution with the condition of Iribarren number. On the other hand the equation related with wave action slope keeps the same trend of distribution over the whole region. When the parameter is related to the Iribarren number, the equation of wave action slope has a very high accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.149-157
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• 2001

From the weakly nonlinear mild-slope wave equations introduced by Nadaoka et al.(1994, 1997), a set of weakly nonlinear wave equations for rapidly varying topography are derived by including the bottom curvature and slope-squared tenns ignored in the original equations ofNadaoka et al. To solve the linear version of extended wave equations derived in this study one-dimensional finite difference numerical model is con¬structed. The perfonnance of the model is tested for the case of wave reflection from a plane slope with various inclination. The numerical results are compared with the results calculated using other numerical models reported earlier. The comparison shows that the accuracy of the numerical model is improved significantly in comparison with that of the original equations ofNadaoka et al. by including a complete set of bottom curva1w'e and slope¬squared terms for a rapidly varying topography.