• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.14 no.8
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• pp.793-800
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• 2005

We isolated and identified microorganisms from the aerial environment of domestic museums. The fungi, Penicillium spp., Alternaria spp., and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in many museums. It seems that these fungi are related to biological degradation of textile remains. A total of 14 kinds of bacterial strains were isolated: Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., Alcaligenes spp., Shigella spp., Klebsiella spp., Corynebacterium spp., Aerococcus spp., Bacillus spp., Micrococcus spp., Citrobacter spp., Erwinia spp., Salmonella spp., and Providencia spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Neisseria spp., and Alcaligenes spp. were the predominate bacteria found in samples with a variety of bacteria. This suggests that there is a relationship between bacteria and the damage of textile remains. In the museum, we isolated Alternaria spp, Geotrichum spp., Penicillium spp. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., Alcaligenes spp. from the entrance, exhibit hall and storage, but they were found in smaller number and species in the exhibit cases and paulownia cases. We concluded that paulownia cases were not influenced by the microorganisms because of quality of care provided by the museum staff. Corynebacterium spp., and Bacillus spp. were not detected at the entrance and exhibit hall but were detected in paulownia cases. It is presumed that those bacteria did not flow in from outside, but resulted from contaminants in paulownia cases. In the distribution of microorganisms associated with textile remains, more fungi were detected than bacteria. Acinetobacter spp., Pseudomonas spp., and Neisseria spp., were isolated from silk items. Penicillium spp. and Cladosporium spp. were isolated in the silk and hump items. Aspergillus spp. and Penicillium spp. were isolated from the cotton items. On the other hands, there were no fungi strains in the wool items. Most of the isolated strains from textile remains were aerial microorganisms from the museum environment. These results suggest that textile remains were apt to contaminated by contact with the air.

• Journal of Environmental Science International
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• v.15 no.10
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• pp.983-988
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• 2006

The textile remains have been affected largely by environmental factors including microorganisms because they were composed of organic compounds to be easy to damage. So, we selected 8 strains of the 131 isolated strains from museum environments and textile remains by high pretense activity, and identified them for measuring the antibacterial activity of Gingko biloba extracts. They were identified Genus Arthrobacter spp. 3 strains (Arthrobacter nicotiannae A12, Arthrobacter sp B12, Arthrobacter oxidans B13), Cenus Bacillus spp. 2 strains (Bacillus licheniformis D9, Bacillus cereus D33), Genus Pseudomonas spp. 2 strains (Pseudomonas putida A24, Pseufomonas fluorescene C21) and a Genus Staphylococcus sp. 1 strain (Staphylococcus pasteuri D3) as closest strains through the blast search of NCBI. Though antibacterial activity of the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves as MIC was lower than that of other pharmaceutical antibiotics. However the extracts was crude extracts, the extracts might have good antibacterial against most of the isolates from museum. Especially, the antifungal activity of Gingko biloba is known previously, the extracts of Gingko biloba leaves has possibility of usage as a good natural material for conservation of remains.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.9
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• pp.87-96
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• 2009

Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.548-559
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was 1) to investigate the effect of drycleaning on the removal of microorganisms according to on the conditions or the kinds of drycleaning solvent about the Quantity of microorganism which remains in kinds of the drycleaning solvent and the sludge after drycleaning. 2) to investigate the removal effect of :microorganisms in using drycleaning solvent repeatedly 3) to investigate the kinds of microorganism living in textiles. The re, ;ultras of tai, ; study were as follows; 1) less microorganisms remains in perchloroethylen than in petroleum solvent. The most microorganisms was isolated at the beginning stage during the drycleaning. 2) In fresh drycleaning solvents, Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATTIC 27853, taphylococcsu atreus ATTIC 6538. and Candida albicans 10529 were killed immediately, while in case of pesters solvents used for 6 month-drycleaning, Pseudomonas Aeruginosa ATTIC 27853 were survived a lot of still in 17 days. 3) On the kind of bacteria in textile goods, Pseudomonas acidovorans and Ewsipelothrix rhusiopathiae are isolated. a genus Rhodetorula is observed through microscope. On the kind of fungi in textile goods, genus Penicillins and genus Apergillus are found through microscope, genus Caddie and genus Trichophyton are found with shapes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.43-52
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to investigate the characteristics of traditional blue color between Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. Korea and Japan as the neighboring country of geographically and historically, but showed obvious difference in traditional color. In this study we investigated the blue color characteristics that appear on Korean and Japanese traditional costumes. We researched the characteristics of blue color on color names and color tones through the old Korean and Japanese literatures, costume remains and restoration dyeing fabrics. This study researched the Chosun Period in Korea and Edo Period in Japan. The results of this study Were as following; Many differentiation colors appeared in Chosun and Edo period than former ages. These differentiation colors were made giving differences gradually in basic color, hue, value and chroma. The blue color names appeared 40 names in Chosun Period and 57 names in Edo Period. In these blue color names of Chosun and Edo Period, the common color name was not more 'indigo'. The most highly appearanced blue color hues of costume remains in Chosun and restoration dyeing fabrics in Edo Period were blue and purplish blue. The most highly appearanced blue color tones were dull and moderate. By result of preceding descriptions, the characteristics of national color were not come from difference of dye and dyeing method, could know that come from difference of society and cultural environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.3
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• pp.51-61
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• 2003

1. This study is to veri(y the characteristics of gauze fabrics focused on the them found at Sukga Pagoda. The remains researched are those of the Unified Shilla Dynasty around 8∼10 century. The found textile remains seem to be used as rugs or to be used for filling in spaces, wrapping silver reliquaries, equipments preserving relics of the Buddha, a gold-plated outermost reliquary, and so on. Since other remains found inside the Sukga Pagoda are national treasures, the textile remains can be considered as the fabrics of the highest quality. 2. Seven gauze fabrics, four non-designed gauzes and three designed gauzes, are found. They are all four-end complex gauze, weaved with the complex gauze technique. Two designed gauzes out of three designed gauzes are weaved in pattern by the clamp-resist dyeing technique and one is weaved in pattern by giving some changes in weaving. 3. In addition to the characteristics peculiar to gauze fabrics, such as thinness, fineness, and sparseness, another characteristic is found. That is, the difference in thickness between wefts and warps is over two times on the average in all of the seven gauze fabrics. Some of the gauze fabrics look like laces because of the huge difference in their thickness. 4. This research verified that with their transparency, are such materials that their beauty can easily be realized without adding various colors or patterns on the fabric by painting, embroidery, stitching old foil, or compound weaving technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.198-210
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.262-269
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• 2007

Traces of ancestors in the era without letters can be found in their legacies and remains such as stone implement, earthenware, dwelling sites, etc. Petroglyph among them reflects their life and spirits as like an epic so that we can be with them through petroglyph. petroglyph is a common culture of mankind, which has been found in various places over the world. The infinite value of traditional culture has a great impact as much as it is unnecessary to more discuss about it. When a culture of a country is reproduced as a world-class product, the country can have visible profits as well as positive effects on diverse fields. The Pangudae petroglyph in Ulsan, consistion of fishery and huntihg religiong, is one of the greatest cultural legacies of the local own uniqueness, and a source and thesaurus of design development. Despite limited tools and unskilled tact, the Pangudae petroglyph Carving shows a strong vital power, which does not change by time, of a whale or a man with various methods such as line and face carving, embossed carving, etc. under a desperate and unconditional purpose, the survival. Thus, the study tries to suggest scarf designs that applies such beauty in fashion design by using the formative beauty caused by natural abrasion through the time, and the feel of lines and stony material.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.94-105
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• 2009

Hwai-ot is the embroidered bridal red robe that represents the beauty of Korean traditional costume. As there are very few remains of Hwal-ot that are pass to date, the study on Hwal-ot has been limited to the Hwal-ot of Princess Bok-on and some civilian Hwal-ot relics. In this study, I tried to perform a positive research on Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty by inspecting these Hwal-ot remains housed at Field Museum of Chicago. This study has its meaning in the fact that it tried to illuminate diverse features and beautiful formation of the Korean traditional Hwal-ot by comparing those possessed by overseas museums with the ones in Korean museums. Number 33157 Hwal-ot has very unique pattern with both embroidery and gold imprint decorated. It has less embroidery than the Princess Bok-on's Hwal-ot but has much diverse gold imprint patterns. Other four Hwal-ot remains, other than the number 33157, have similar characteristics with the Hwal-ot housed at Changdeok-gung, whose reproductions are also kept at Dankook University Muesum and Ewha Womans University Museum, which makes it possible to deduce that they have typical characteristics of the Royal Hwal-ot of the latter Joseon dynasty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.243-248
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• 2007

This study is about the fabric attached to the relics excavated from the Shimchun-ri tomb of the 4th century and the Moonsan-ri tombs of the 5th century. We studied 5 pieces of fabric from the Shimchun-ri tomb: one piece was silk and the other four pieces were hemp. We were able to observe 8 pieces from the four tombs in Moonsan-ri, All of them except one ramie were silk. The two kinds of bast fiber found in the tombs of Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri were hemp and ramie, and they were found to be plain woven with S-twist thread which thickness is uneven. The density was more fine compared to the hemps found in the Kaya or Shinra tombs of the similar era. All of the silk textiles found in the Shimchun-ri and Moonsan-ri tombs used non-twisted thread, and were plain woven. Also, we found degummed and raw silk from the tombs. The average density of the silk textiles from these tombs are similar to other areas of the same time, and studies show that they used non-twisted thread in plain woven silk found in other tombs. Therefore, we can conclude that they usually used non-twisted thread when producing silk textiles.