• 복식
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• 제62권3호
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• pp.96-111
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• 2012

This study is to analyze fashion phenomenon according to the concept of the characteristics of freewheeling to explain the de-constructive, eclectic, avant-garde tendencies in Contemporary Fashion. This study is to elicit the aesthetic characteristics through 400 pieces of visual data analysis from 2001S/S to 2011F/W that have the characteristics of freewheeling, nontechnical experiments do away with the classical form. The oriental ideas include the thoughts of different tastes that break the stereotypes according to the Western values and the pursuit of unconventional beauty. These also insist that everything in the world including human-being, nature and creation is not divided into two equal parts, and even beauty and ugliness originated from one. This study is to find the possibility of interpreting oriental aesthetics with open concepts that transcends the boundaries of full availability, unlike the Western values that accommodate the relative concept of the pursuit of diversity. Therefore, integrated and systematic approaches of oriental aesthetics that place much value on the coexistence of antithetic concepts are needed to understand the ambiguity of complexity and diversity in Contemporary fashion design.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.87-105
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• 1998

Surveying the literature of architecture since the nineteenth century, one can identify two dominant but problematic attitudes, among several, that pursue the task of defining what modern architecture is and should be. The first is the search for meaning and the second is the pursuit of form. This study, following Michel Foucault, asserts that the dual formation of meaning and form is a historical product of modernity and belies architecture's uncritical dependence on language since the nineteenth century. This study is a critique and historical analysis of this pernicious reliance, and constitutes a first step towards thinking of alternative relations between 'words and architecture' in the modern world. In reconstructing this problematic, the paper has called on Foucault's seminal The Order of Things. The study follows his construction of the Renaissance, the Classical and the Modern episteme, and in brief fashion, reconstructs the relation between language and architecture in each episteme. In analysing the Modern, the study focuses on Hegel's Lectures on Aesthetics. Hegel placed architecture in a genre hierarchy within which architecture, because of its material basis, was fundamentally limited in its ability to express the Spirit. For Hegel it was, among the arts, poetic language, and beyond art, the language of philosophy, through which the Absolute Spirit could be atttained. Much of post-nineteenth century architecture has remained within the shadow of Hegel, where architecture's materiality is perceived to be a burden, and in order to secure its relevance in modern society, architecture was deemed to pursue the role of language. As the most recent and sophisticated example of architecture's pursuit of form, the paper analyses the work of Peter Eisenman. Though Eisenman's theoretical writings are replete with post-Hegelian rhetoric, his architecture remains dependent upon the model of language, albeit a structuralist one. The paper concludes that ultimately, the pursuit of meaning and form is unable to face the crucial issue of value in modernity. While the former decides to easily what it is, the latter evades the issue itself. The second installment of this ongoing study will pursue a third possibility alluded to by Foucault, where language remains silent, pointing only to its 'ponderous' material existence.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권1호
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• pp.59-74
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• 2013

Post-modern society leads us to accept diversity and variability instead of pursuit of the absolute truth, beauty or classical value systems, thus leading to hybrid phenomena. The purpose of this study is to analyze characteristics and expressive effects of hybrid expressions through which to provide conceptual bases for interpreting expanded meanings of fashion illustrations that express aesthetic concepts of hybrid culture. Hybrid refers to a condition on which diverse elements are mixed with each other, so any one element can not dominate others. It is often used to create something unique and new by a combination of unprecedented things. Hybrid can be classified into four categories: temporal hybrid, spatial hybrid, morphological hybrid and hybrid of different genres. Temporal hybrid from a combination of past and present in fashion illustration includes temporal blending by repetition and juxtaposition. Spatial hybrid shows itself in the form of inter-penetration and interrelationship by means of projection, overlapping, juxtaposition and multiple space. Morphological hybrid expresses itself through combination of heterogenous forms and restructuring of deformed forms. Hybrid of different genres in fashion illustration applies various graphic elements or photos within the space, and represents blending of arts and daily living. Such hybrid expressions in fashion illustrations reflect the phenomena of diversity and variability of post-modern society. Hybrid expressions in fashion illustrations predict endless possibility of expressing new images through combining various forms or casual elements and can develop toward a new creative technique.

• 복식
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• 제57권4호
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• pp.18-29
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• 2007

Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.

• 고전문학과교육
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• 제32호
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• pp.327-355
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• 2016

이 연구에서는 천예록 소재 <옥소선 이야기>를 통해 작중 인물의 소시민적 욕망의 면모를 살펴보고자 하였다. 소시민적 인물의 욕망과 그 지향성은 다분히 세속적이며 이기적이다. 이러한 인물상은 봉건사회에서 근대사회로 이행하는 시기에 대두하기 시작한 중립적 존재로서의 소시민적 특성과 많이 닮아있다. 이 소시민이란 개념은 현대의 대중 및 서민의 한 특성을 가리키는 데에도 자주 사용된다. 소시민적 태도에 대한 지금의 이해와 작품 속 인물들의 특성은 크게 다르지 않다. 소시민에게 중요한 것은 사회에 대한 원대한 지배이념이나 현실개혁 의지가 아니라, 무엇보다 자기 삶의 만족을 이루고자 하는 현실적이고도 일상적인 욕망의 성취와 안정이다. 이에 주체가 어떠한 욕망을 가지는 지에 따라 충족의 태도와 과정에서 반사회적이거나 이기적인 경계적 특성이 나타나기도 한다. 그러나 그 행동의 반경은 거대한 현실의 지배체제 속에 국한되어 있고, 자신의 소유와 만족을 충족하는 것에 개인적인 삶의 목표가 그치는 것이 특징이다. 이는 생이 사랑을 추구하기 위해 가족과 사회를 저버리고 자란과의 결연을 충족하지만, 반사회적 태도로 끝까지 사회와 대립하기 보다는 과거급제를 통해 가정과 사회 속의 재진입하여 안정을 획득하는 것과 통한다. 또한 본 작품이 현재적으로 유의미한 이유는 사랑이라는 인간 본연의 자기 욕망을 발견하고, 그것을 긍정하여 충족하고자 반봉건적 행위-불효, 불충, 불열-마저 감행하며 움직인 생의 주체적 행보에 있다. 이러한 생의 욕망 추구에 힘입어 옥소선도 관기라는 자신의 신분적 굴레를 벗어나 사랑의 주체가 되고자 하는 자기욕망을 긍정하게 되어 사회제도로부터 일탈하는 것이다. 나아가 이 과정에서 자기 행적의 사회적 한계점을 인식하고, 이를 보완하기 위해 자구적 방식으로 노력한다. 이에 과거급제라는 개인의 지적능력 실현으로 사회에 재진입하는 점에서 소시민적 욕망의 성취와 한계의 일면을 찾을 수 있다. 조선 후기 근대로의 이행기 때에는 개인적 욕망과 자유의지에 목마른 근대적 인간형과 함께 주체적 삶에 대해 아직 이질적 몰이해 상태인 봉건적인 인간형이 혼재되어 있었을 것이다. 이는 지금, 여기의 현재적 상황과도 크게 다르지 않다. 작품은 현실의 거대한 장벽 안에서 왜소한 '자기'의 존재적 각성과 미진하게나마 발현되는 주체적 욕망에 큰 가치를 부여하며 이를 조명하고 있다. 나아가 현실논리 속에 실패를 경험한 개인의 경험과 각고의 노력을 소소한 성취로서 긍정한다. 이렇듯 스스로의 만족을 향한 행복을 능동적으로 추구하며 인간답게 사는 삶을 권면한다는 점에서 본 작품은 현대 독자들에게도 여전히 유효한 문학적 의미를 발한다.