• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.904-921
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to develop a body type suitable for adult men aged from their 20s to their 40s and to present a method of drafting related patterns. To this end, the somatic surface pattern data from previous studies were used. The research method involved drafting torso patterns for each type by setting and distributing the ease to the somatic surface pattern. Appearance evaluation was performed with virtual clothing. Then, the torso pattern for each body type was completed and presented as a draft method. SPSS was used for data analysis in this study. The research results are as follows. Types 1, 2, and 3 were set to 7%, 6%, 5%; 7%, 6%, 4%; and 6.5%, 7%, and 6% for chest, waist, and hip circumference measurements, respectively. The ratio of front to back was 50%:50%, 50%:50%, and 50%:50% of the spare for each body part for Type 1; 70%:30%, 50%:50%, and 60%:40% for Type 2, and 60%:40%, 70%:30%, and 60%:40% for Type 3. A tight-fit torso pattern for each body type suitable for adult males in their 20s to 40s was drafted, which was modified and supplemented through the evaluation of the first and second virtual wear. Considering the practicality of this approach, for generalization of the patterns, the items of the pattern were converted into a drafting method and presented as a draft method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.21-33
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• 1981

The purpose of this study was to develop a skirt pattern drafting method for korean women between the ages of $18\~24$ on the basis of their physical charcteristics which differs from those of other races in its size and figure. The study procedures and results were as follows; 1. Ten types of convantional skirt patterns were collected and compared to determine the essential measuring items for skirt construction, and to discover what problems are involved. 2. Fourteen items of KIST measurement data were analysed for correlation coefficients, to establish representative items and independent ones. 3. Front waist length and back waist length were additionally measured for supplementary data. 4. A new skirt drafting method was developed based on the results of the pattern comparison and the data analysis. 5. A sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the new method comparing it with the most widely accepted conventional pattern. An original rating scale was developed for the evaluation and an expert panel consisting of five members judged each shell from 12 subjects by random selection. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 17 items on the rating scale, 14 items showed significant differences (${\alpha}\leqq$0.01 or ${\alpha}\leqq$0.05) between the two, with the new pattern having better fit. The new pattern drafting method proved to be superior to the conventional one especially in the fitness at the back hip, dart length, side seam balance, and the ease for daily activities.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.2 s.24
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• pp.23-36
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• 1987

The purpose of the suudy was to develop a computer program for pattern mating of women's pant's. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern mating. The VAX-11/750 Computer and the CALCOMP PLOTTER 965 were used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows : 1. A slacks pattern was selected. 2. The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in draffing. Total sixty co-ordinate points were instituted from (AX(1), AY(1)) to (AX(24), AY(24)), from (BX(1), BY(1)) to (BX(36), BY(36)). 3. A program for drafting was developed. Refer to (Table 3). 4. The procedures of drading of standard size were accomplished by using same method. The program was developed to drafting pattern for women by putting indivisual body measurement. The body measurements for stacks pattern were as follows : slacks length. Croach length. Hip length. nip circumference. waist circumference.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.13 no.2 s.30
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• pp.146-154
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of man's Korean traditional trousers (Hanbok Baji). The IBM-PC/AT Computer was used in this study. The procedures of the study were as follows. 1. Basic pattern of Hanbok Baji was selected. 2. Co-ordinate points were instituted for indicate of relative location of all necessary points in drafting. 3. A program for drafting was developed. 4. The pattern of Baji for man's Hanbok was automatically design by inputting individual body measurement (trouser length and hip girth). 5. Grading of standard size was accomplished by using same method.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.133-144
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• 1995

The purpose of the study is to develop a computer program for making patterns for women's traditional Korean stockings, Beoson, Thus, the IBM 386 DX computer, the HP DROFT Pro Plotter, and Auto LISP language are used in this study. The procedures for the automated drafting can be summarized as follows : 1. A Beoson pattern was selected. 2. 39 co-ordinate points necessary for designing patterns of Beoson were established. 3. A program for drafting the pattern was developed ; refer to Table 1. 4. The Program was designed by inputting individual body measurements (foot length, foot circumferenceI, and foot circumfer-enceII) and angle(30 degrees). 5. Beoson patterns were made very correctly and quickly by using computers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.189-196
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• 1994

The purpose of this study is to develop a computer program for automatic dart manipulation, as well as basic pattern making, of women's front bodice. In addition to accuracy and efficiency In pattern making, this computer program provides variations of basic patterns through dart manipulation. AutoCAD, running on the Austin 486DX micro-computer is used for this research. The procedures of this study are as follows : 1. A pattern-making method for women's front bodice is selected. 2. All co-ordinate points are located following the same way and order of drafting. 3. Drafting of a basic front bodice is programmed 4. Functions for various single dart manipulations are defined. 5. Menu-driven user interface is developed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.661-671
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• 2011

This study was designed to produce rounded belt pattern and tight-skirt pattern drafting method using 3D body scan data. Subjects were thirty women in their early twenties. In order to figure out the optimum cutting points, namely, where darts are made, using CAD program, curve ratio inflection points on the horizontal curve of waist, abdomen, and hip to find 1 point in the front, two points in the back part. The average length from center front point to maximum curve ratio was 7.7 cm(46.3%) on the waist curve; 7.9 cm(39.4%) on the abdomen curve. And the average length from center back point to maximum curve ratio point was 6.9 cm(39.0%) for first dart and 11.2 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the waist curve; 8.9 cm(35.8%) for first dart and 15.7 cm(63.3%) for second dart on the hip curve respectively. The cutting lines from were made up by connecting curve inflection points. After divided using cutting lines, each patch was flattened onto the plane and all the technical design factors related with patternmaking were measured, such as dart amount, lifting amount of side waist point, etc. Based on the results of correlation analysis among these factors, regression analysis was done to produce equations to estimate the variables necessary to draw up pattern draft method; F1=F8+1.1, $F4=2.5{\times}F2+0.9$, $F5=0.9{\times}F4+1.0$, $F6=0.3{\times}F4+0.4$, $B1=0.9{\times}B8+2.3$, $B4=2.1{\times}B2+1.3$, $B5=0.9{\times}B4+3.5$, and $B6=0.3{\times}B4+0.4$.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.1-9
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• 1989

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.116-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1190-1197
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.