• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.101-113
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• 2016

This study was conducted in order to analyze draping and flat pattern according to jacket design, and provide basic materials for developing a jacket pattern that can enhance fitness, functionality, and aesthetic expression of clothes by reflecting esthetic expression of draping and efficiency of flat pattern at the same time. For the experimental jacket designs of a one-piece sleeve jacket and a two-piece sleeve jacket were selected among the entries of the designer Rubina for 2014 F/W Seoul Fashion Week. Designer brand Rubina usually produced clothes using draping and the designer brand company provided the experimental patterns for the study. We also had flat patterns of the same design and size specifications designed by a flat patternmaker who has 30 year-experience in flat pattern like Rubina. The test apparel jacket was made of 20's cotton yarns. Three models wore the jackets and evaluation on appearance fitness was conducted by 7 members in an expert panel group from August 10, 2015 to September 10, 2015. As a result of appearance fitness analysis on one-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant difference in 4 items among 17 items in terms of overall appearance. The appearance of jackets by draping had higher score than those using flat pattern. As for two-piece sleeve jacket, there were significant differences in 7 items among 17 items related to overall appearance. As for the items related to sleeve, 5 items out of 13 showed significant differences. Except for one item, appearance of jackets using draping had higher score than flat pattern. As for motion fitness, draping was evaluated to be more comfortable. Applying the items with high scores in appearance and motion fitness in draping to flat pattern, The study suggests a new jacket pattern development that would increase the satisfaction of consumers for future research.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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• v.26 no.10
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• pp.125-137
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• 2021

This study was intended to develop a prototype of new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece based on design extracted through a preference survey on new Hanbok Cheollik one-piece. Through this, it was intended to provide information on patterns that are fundamental to the production of new Hanbok Cheollik one piece. The pattern of the experiment was produced by modifying D pattern, which was selected as excellent in the comparison of commercial Cheollik one-piece patterns. The SPSS 26.0 program was used to analyze the appearance evaluation of patterns. As a result of the 1^st evaluation of appearance and garment pressure, the shoulder, sleeve length, skirt length and sleeve width required modification, reducing the sleeve length by 8.0cm and the sleeve width by 1.0cm in total. The length of the skirt was reduced by 5.0cm and the shoulder end point was reduced by 0.5cm on both sides to modify the shoulder width. As a result of the 2^nd evaluation, the waist area, sleeve width, and skirt wrinkles were required to be corrected, reducing 2.0 cm waist width and 1.0 cm sleeve width and removing wrinkles on the front center and side area. The final pattern was highly appreciated. In future studies, it is thought that research should be conducted through study of Cheollik one-piece pattern according to material and age and the actual wearing experiment according to fabric and age.

• The Journal of Korean Academy of Prosthodontics
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.156-171
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to measure and compare the strains produced by screw-tightening implant frameworks fabricated by aye different fabrication methods; (1) one-piece cast using plastic sleeve, (2) one-piece cast using gold cylinder, (3) laser welding, (4) soldering, and (5) electrical discharge machining, and also to measure and compare the strains produced when the order of screw tightening was changed A research model incorporating eighteen strain gages was made to measure the fit of implant frameworks in three dimensions. Three implants aligned in an arc were fixed on the top ends of the L-shape aluminum bars of the research model, and standard abutments were joined to the implants with abutment screws. Five types of implant framework were placed on the abutments and screwed by a torque wrench using 10 Ncm. Under the conditions of this study, the following conclusions were drawn: 1. The electrical discharge machining group showed the smallest magnitude of strain, followed by the soldering group, the laser welding group, the one-piece cast group using gold cylinder, and the one-piece cast group using plastic sleeve. However, among the magnitude of strain for the remaining groups except the electrical discharge machining group, there were not significant differences. 2. When the order of screw tightening was changed, there were not significant differences in the magnitude of strain. 3. In comparison with the electrical discharge machining group, the laser welding group and the one-piece cast groups showed greater horizontal distortion and the soldering group showed greater horizontal and vertical distortion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.439-453
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• 2015

This research is regarding Park Ki-Jong's Western-style court costume and emphasizes the shape and style peculiarities of Western-style court costumes in the Korean Empire from the 1876 Port Opening to the 1910 annexation of Korean to Japan. Park Ki-Jong's frock coat was made during the period of the established law from 1900 to 1910. 1) The brand was ASADA TAILOR from Kyung-Sung. 2) The shape was long at the front and back, and it featured a picked lapel and double breast with six buttons to fasten and two buttons for decoration on the upper part. 3) The frock coat's materials were black wool fabric and black ridged silk. The lining's material was black plain silk and the sleeve's lining was white with blue striped silk. 4) The front separated the upper and bottom parts. The bottom was composed of a one-piece A-line skirt that continued from the front to back. The top of the back was separated by the princess line and the center-back seam was also separated with a vent. However, the center-back of the waistline was not separated, and it continued to one piece. The sleeve shape was a two-piece sleeve style with a phony vent and two wrapping buttons.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.167-182
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• 2015

This study was to investigate the preference tendency by detail and material preference of summer one-piece dresses for the children, and evaluation standard of children's wear in purchasing one-piece dresses as an object of mothers who have girls as buying representatives of children's wear in order to supply real information of design about the one-piece dresses for the girls in accordance with the consumers' demands. The results of this study revealed that the one-piece dress was favorite one to them in purchasing their summer wear. This study showed tendency that the more the mother's fashion interest was, the more the mother's preference on the one-piece dress was. As to the material preference of one-piece dress, it preferred the natural fiber to the synthetic fiber much, and the preferred customer order in purchasing one-piece dresses for their children was analyzed as activity, material, design collar, and pattern. As to the preference by form factor of one-piece dress, it preferred A-line silhouette in the silhouette, natural waist in the waist position, 5~7cm from the knee in the length of one-piece dress, and flared skirt in shape of skirt. The preference on the collar type was soutien collar, and the preference on the neckline type was round neckline. In addition, the preference on sleeve form was shirtsleeve, and the preference on trimming was lace trimming.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1059-1067
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• 2009

The knitting method of the sleeves for improving movement adaptability were studied in this paper. The purpose of this study is proposing a knitting method that is suitable for the bodies of women in their 20's and can enhance wearing satisfaction. To see the effect of the bind-off length at the axilla, a movement adaptability test was undertaken for 4 samples that have bind-off at bodices. In addition to that, the analysis of their sliding distance with respect to the human motions were executed. The results of this study were listed below. Its result was that the samples with small bind-off lengths represent better wearing satisfaction than the samples which have large bind-off lengths. The comparison of the sliding distances at the hem, waist and sleeves with respect to the tester's motions also shows that the sample having small bind-off makes better result than the sample with large bind-off. It was observed that the optimal length of bind-off was 2cm for the improvement of the sleeve functionality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.718-734
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data f3r improvement in Working Uniform in both scientific and efficient ways. The study were enforced by questionnaire and personal interview. The subject of the survey were the workers of 264 in mechanic industry in Seoul. The results obtained from the researches by methods above are as follows. 1. In general, Working Uniform could be classified types of two. One is loose-fitting one-piece garment covering the body and legs, the other is two-piece garment. The latter is a jacket with either sports collar or soutein collar, fastened with either buttons or a zipper and its sleeve is finished by cuffs and tapes. Regarding to color. inkblue, dark navy, khaky, dark beige are favourable ones. 2. In regard to the necessity of uniform that workers suppose, most of them were aware of it and agreed wearing uniform could play an important part. The reason why are on the basis of safety-first and work efficiency and also to protect a body from harmful or toxic dirt specially in machinery workplace. 3. The purpose of wearing an uniform according to statistics of population make some difference in age, gender. categories of industry, and the scale of factory. 4. In regard to care of uniform, front hem, edge of sleeve in a jacket, and knee, hip part in pants were most vulnerable spots for dirt. The parts damaged easily are edge of sleeve in a jacket and a zipper in pants. On the average, laundry have been done by water and was once a week frequency.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.15-25
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• 2003

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

• Progress in Superconductivity
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.218-223
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• 2002

The void volume fraction of cables is one of the effective parameters to characterize the joints of superconducting magnet. Because electrical resistance and cooling stability in the CICC (Cable-in-Conduit Conductors) joint are governed by the void volume fraction, it should be controlled constantly in the termination of cable. The change of cross-section shape in the cable was fecund during the unidirectional compaction of terminal sleeve. The non-uniform thickness of the sleeve after compaction is expected because the loading is not taxi-symmetric, and the plastic flow is also not axi-symmetric. The CICC was compacted from 45% void volume fraction to 15% by using two-piece compaction jig, which could be pressed mini-directionally. Commercial code, ABAQUS, was used to analyze the plastic flow in the sleeve during the unidirectional compaction. The increment of radius of curvature of compaction jig could minimize the change of the deformed shape of cables. The calculated results were agreed with the experimental observations.