A Study on Issues relating to Kandys and Persiandress among the Persian Costume

페르시아 복식(服飾) 중(中) Kandys와 Persiandress의 문제점(問題点)에 대(對)한 연구(硏究)

  • 장영수 (독일 Koln 대학교 미술사연구소)
  • Published : 2003.06.30

Abstract

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

Keywords

References

  1. Burns, Edward McNall, Western Civilization, 박상익 역, 소나무, 1994, p. 75
  2. Walter, Hinz발터 힌쯔, Altiranische Funde und Forschungen고대이란의 발견폼과 그 연구, Berlin: Walter de Gruyter & Co., 1969, p. 70
  3. Ingrid Loschek잉그리드 로섹, Mode - & Kostuem Lexikon복식사전, Stuttgart: Verlag Philipp Reclam jun., 1999, p. 354: 14페이지 참조
  4. Stefan Bittner, Tracht und Bewaffnung des persischen Heeres zur Zeit der Achaemeniden 아케메네스 시대 페르시아 지배자들의 복식과 무기, Muenchen: Verlag Klaus Friedrich, 1985, p. 92-93
  5. Bruno Jacobs 브르노 야콥스, Drei Beitraege zu Fragen der Ruestung und Bekleidung in Persien zur Achaemenidenzeit 페르시아 아케메네스시대 갑옷과 복식에 있어서 세가지 물음에 대한 소고, Iranica Antiqva, Vol. XXIX, Festschrift, K. Schippmann I, 1994, Gent, p. 126, pp. 125-167
  6. 앞글, p. 126
  7. S. Bittner, Tracht und Bewaffnung des persischen Heeres zur Zeit der Achaemeniden 아케메네스 시대 페르시아 지배자들의 복식과 무기, Muenchen: Verlag Klaus Friedrich, 1985, p. 95
  8. Heidemarie Koch하이데마리 코흐, Es Kuendet Dareios der Koenig...다리우스왕이 이르기를..., Mainz/Rhein: Verlag Philipp von Zabern, 1992, p. 207
  9. Heidemarie Koch하이데마리 코흐, Es Kuendet Dareios der Koenig...다리우스왕이 이르기를..., Mainz/Rhein: Verlag Philipp von Zabern, 1992, p. 207
  10. E. Herzfeld헤르쯔펠트, Iran in the Ancient East 고대 동쪽에 있는 이란, Berlin, 1941, p. 259; G. Thomson, Iranian Dress in the Achaemenian Period, Iran, Vol. III, 121-126, 1965, p. 123; B. Jacobs, 앞글, p. 127
  11. G. Walser, Die Voelkerschaften auf den Reliefs von Persepolis, 페르제폴리스 부 조에 묘사된 주변 종족의 사신들, Berlin: Verlag Gebr. Mann, 1966, p. 69
  12. B. Goldman, Orgin of the Persian Robe, IrAnt 4, 1964, p. 133
  13. A. Rose, The Achaemenid Robe, Bibliotheca Orientalis 8, 1951, p. 139, pp. 137-141
  14. A. Rose, The Achaemenid Robe, Bibliotheca Orientalis 8, 1951, pp. 137-141
  15. P. Beck, A Note on the reconstrucktion of the Achaemenid Robe, Iranica Antiqva, Vol. 9, 1972, p. 117-122
  16. P. Beck, A Note on the reconstrucktion of the Achaemenid Robe, Iranica Antiqva, Vol. 9, 1972, p. 119
  17. H. Koch, 하이데마리 코흐, Es Kuendet Dareios der Koenig...다리우스왕이 이르기를..., Mainz/Rhein: Verlag Philipp von Zabern, 1992 p. 205
  18. W. Hinz, 발터 힌쯔, Altiranische Funde und Forschungen고대이란의 발견폼과 그 연구, Berlin: Walter de Gruyter & Co., 1969, p. 101
  19. A, Rose, The Achaemenid Robe, Bibliotheca Orientalis 8, 1951, p. 139
  20. A, Rose, The Achaemenid Robe, Bibliotheca Orientalis 8, 1951, p. 137
  21. S. Bittner, Tracht und Bewaffnung des persischen Heeres zur Zeit der Achaemeniden 아케메네스 시대 페르시아 지배자들의 복식과 무기, Muenchen: Verlag Klaus Friedrich, 1985, p. 191, 192
  22. F. Sarre, E. Herzfeld, Iranische Felsreliefs 이란의 암벽부조상, Berlin, 1910, p. 52
  23. I. Loschek, 잉그리드 로섹, Mode - & Kostuem Lexikon복식사전, Stuttgart: Verlag Philipp Reclam jun., 1999, p. 278
  24. A. Rose, The Achaemenid Robe, Bibliotheca Orientalis 8, 1951, p. 141
  25. G. Rawlinson, The seven Great Monarchies of the Ancient Eastern World II, Chicago, New York, 1875, p. 339
  26. Georgina. Thomson, 앞글 p. 121; S. Bittner, 앞글 p. 91
  27. O. M. Dalton, The treasure of the Oxus, London: first edition 1905, 51: second edition 1926, XXXif.; G. Thomson, 앞글, p. 121
  28. Geo Widengren, Some Remarks on Riding Costume and Articles of Dress among Iranian Peoples in Antiquity, Studica Ethnographica Upsaliensia, XI, Arctica Uppsala, 1956, p. 237
  29. W. Hinz, Altiranische Funde und Forschungen, p. 72; S. Bittner, 앞글, p. 190 Great Monuments of the Ancient World 4, (1988), Tokyo, Kodanscha Ltd. Encyclopaedia Iranica V (1992), Costa Mesa, Califonia, Mazda Publishers Duncan Head (1992), The Achaemenid Persian Army, Stockport: Montvert Publication. Roman Ghirshman (1964), Iran, Muenchen: Verlag C. H. Beck