• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.2002-2010
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• 2009

The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.980-989
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• 2009

Amur cork tree was extracted in methanol with the purpose of investigating the most effective extraction procedure for detecting the chromophore using the GC-MS analysis. Different procedures of waterbath and hotplate extractions were carried out and five different GC-MS instrument parameters including the operating temperatures in the GC capillary column and the MSD scan range were tested for their efficiencies. Berberine was determined by the detection of dihydroberberine at 15.0 min r.t. Hotplate was a better device for extracting amur cork tree than waterbath shaker either with or without presoaking in the room temperature. Water was not an adequate extraction medium for the berberine detection. The most effective GC-MS parameter was Method 4; the initial temperature at $50^{\circ}C$ followed by the temperature increase of $23^{\circ}C$/min until $210^{\circ}C$, then increase of $30^{\circ}C$/min until the final temperature reach at $305^{\circ}C$, then hold for 14 minutes to maintain the total run time 24.12 minutes. The MSD scan range for Method 4 was $35\sim400$m/z.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권12호
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• pp.1653-1661
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• 2007

The research aimed to establish the standard extraction procedure for examining brazilin, the major chromophoric substance of Sappanwood, using GC-MS with the ultimate goal of identifying the sappanwood dye in severely faded archaeological textiles. The amount of brazilin represented by the GC abundance was the largest when acetone was used as the extraction medium, followed by methanol. Shaking plate operated at room temperature was more effective than the waterbath shaker which was operated at $30^{\circ}C$. In both cases, the extraction method which incorporated one hour pre-soaking before the 12 hours of actual extraction resulted in a larger amount of brazilin detection than the extraction procedure without the one hour pre-soaking. In case of water extraction, pH 5 resulted in the most effective pH level for the extraction of brazilin, The best GC-MS parameter for detecting brazilin was to set the column temperature initially at $50^{\circ}C$. gradually increase to $210^{\circ}C$ at a $23^{\circ}C/min$ rate, finally increase to $305^{\circ}C$ at $30^{\circ}C/min$ rate, and hold for 14 minutes, and the MSD scan range at $75{\sim}400m/z$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권12호
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• pp.1897-1909
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• 2009

This large-scale research project contributes to the theory development in the importance of clothing to the self and in the way that older persons might age successfully by fulfilling the need for self-actualization by incorporating a primary resource environment, such as clothing into their self-system. This paper presents one research objective from a lager project that explores the correlations among the Proximity of Clothing to Self (PCS), age identity (subjective or perceived age), and self-actualization (the highest level of human needs). A mail survey design was applied to this study. In November 2004, two questionnaires, Clothing: A Resource for Successful Aging? (to measure PCS, age identity, and demographic variables) and Personal Orientation Inventory (to measure self-actualization), were sent to 1,700 older persons in the U.S. and 195 completed usable questionnaires were returned (12% response rate). This research discovered that the age identity of older persons did not relate with PCS except for those 85 years and over. There were negative correlations among subscales of PCS and self-actualization. This result can be interpreted as that an older person who has not met the highest level of needs yet, can use clothing as a facilitator or need satisfier to meet a higher level of Self-Actualization (SA). Correlation analyses also revealed that older persons in the age category of 75 to 84 years were different from those in the category of 65 to 74 years and 85 years and over. This result implies that older persons in this age category are undergoing more psychological transitions than those in other categories. Further research is necessary to explore the relationship of several SA subscales with various clothing variables such as clothing interest, clothing involvement, or clothing satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.848-858
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• 2007

Sontag and Lee (2004) recently developed an objectively measurable instrument, the Proximity of Clothing to Self(PCS) Scale, which measured the psychological closeness of clothing to self. They validated a 4-factor, 24-item PCS Scale for use with adolescents and identified the need for confirmation of the factor structure with other age groups. This paper extends the work of Sontag and Lee by employing the PCS Scale with older persons, age 65 and over, and reports the validation of a 3-factor, 19-item PCS Scale for older persons. A mail survey was sent to a national random sample of 1,700 older Persons by means of a list purchased from a U.S. survey sampling company in late November 2004. Total usuable number of respondents was 250 with an adjusted response rate of 15.6 percent. Three analytical rounds of confirmatory factor analysis(CFA) to test the construct validity of the PCS Scale were conducted by using AMOS 5.0(Analysis of Moment Structures), one of several structural equation modeling(SEM) programs. Completion of three rounds of the CFA resulted in a 3-factor, 19-item PCS Scale with demonstrated construct validity and reliability for older persons. The three PCS dimensions are clothing in relation to 1) self as structure-process(PCS Dimension 1-2-3 combined), 2) self-esteem-evaluative and affective processes(PCS Dimension 4-5 combined), and 3) body image and body cathexis(PCS Dimension 6). The initially hypothesized 6-factor scale(Sontag & Lee, 2004) was not confirmed for adolescents in their study nor with older persons in this study. In addition, the 4-factor solution for the adolescent group did not hold for older persons. It appears that the self-system of older persons is more integrated than may be true for younger individuals. Recommendations for future testing of construct validity of the PCS Scale are made.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.985-996
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolism of traditional Korean patterns which reflect an emotional cultural background of Korean people, to apply modernized and developed patterns to Textile Design for fashion cultural products, and to explore productive direction of developing designs of fashion cultural products. The process of developing Textile Design of fashion cultural products which applied symbolism of traditional Korean patterns was conducted as follows. Firstly, based on '05 S/S-'07 S/S fashion trends, a design concept wat decided(man-urban ethnic style, woman-romantic ethnic style). Secondly, motive was abstracted from selected traditional patterns to develop into modem patterns. Thirdly, items were selected according to symbolic meaning of traditional Korean patterns. Man's items included shirts, necktie, and handkerchief which were highly preferred by Korean and foreign visitors. Finally, developed textile designs were diagrammed by item using textile CAD and an illustrator 10 and presented as images. The following results were obtained. First, textile designs for fashion cultural products, in which apply traditional patterns may reflect the understanding of traditional aesthetic beauty and philosophical approach by applying symbolic significance inherent in patterns as well as the aesthetics of the patterns. Second, traditional patterns have been recognized as old fashioned to consumers because they have been often used for traditional handicrafts or folk products. If their unique shapes are changed or simplified, emphasizing images, and trend styles and colors are used, they will be recreated as a modem design. Third, textile designs using traditional patterns may provide various images and visual effects according to techniques and production methods. Then, the method will be applied to many items. Finally, since traditional patterns in fashion cultural products can be used as our unique design elements, they can be utilized as the source of design inspiration for the development of value-added products.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권12호
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• pp.1784-1792
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• 2007

This study set out to identify the problems with hat labels and to search for improvement measures by examining and analyzing consumers' practice of managing their hats. It also intended to provide accurate and enough information about how to keep and wash hats and thus help consumers use their hats for a long period. In an attempt to investigate how consumers wash and manage their hats, a survey was carried out to 395 individuals in their twenties and over who owned hats living in urban areas including Seoul, and were quota sampled according to age and gender. The survey period is March to April 2007. The collected data were statistically treated with the SPSS 12.0 program in terms of frequency, percentage, mean, standard error, cross tabulation, t-test, and one-way ANOVA. The findings were as followed. First, the respondents were in the average level of perceiving and practicing the washing methods of their hats. The female respondents who had more experiences with laundering than the males knew and practiced the washing methods for hats better than males. Second, compared to other clothing items, hat wearers were more likely to pay careful attention to their hats by putting their hats in a laundry net and applying a laundry detergent for wool fabrics when using a washing machine or washing their hats with their own hands. And third, most of the hat wearers were aware of the importance of hat labels and showed a lower level of trust in them than other clothing items. The suppliers need to offer accurate and practical labels in order to regain the consumers' trust. Many consumers had some difficulties figuring out the size system of hats. In particular, the male consumers had a low level of perception of labels, which implies that there should be specific efforts to educate them about general labels.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제41권5호
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• pp.840-857
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• 2017

In 1995, the costumes were restored in an unknown woman's tomb at the Jeonju Lee's family cemetery in Gapyeong, Gyeonggi-Do, and there are currently nine items remaining. In this study, we first introduced these 9 relics to academia and analyzed the morphological characteristics of the costumes. We also estimated the time and person of burial compared with costumes unearthed from other burials. Jeogories (short jacket) are all four items. One of these items was unusual in shape, and the upper part of the seop (gusset) was wrinkled and shaped. This type of Jeogori appears only till the 1520s in other tombs. There are also two skirts, one of which is characterized by a superimposed pattern. The top and bottom / middle part of the skirt were rolled up, and the skirt, which was double-rolled up in this way, was first discovered. An analysis of the shape of Jeogori and skirt indicated that the person buried in the Jeonju Lee's family tomb was believed to have survived until the early 16th century. Based on these estimated periods, as a result of looking at the genealogy of Jeonju Lee's family, it was concluded that the tomb was probably a woman named Lee Geum Myeong (李金命) born in the mid-15C and died between the late 15C and the early 16C.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.879-891
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• 2007

Forecasting is a critical task for fashion companies because of continuous change in fashion and long process lead-time. Therefore, it is of great importance for both scholars and companies to understand how forecasted fashion styles are accepted by consumers. This research aimed to investigate consumer acceptance of fashion styles in Korea. The study examined and compared oversea collections of women's wear to the street fashion in Korea for seven seasons from 02 s/s to 05 s/s. Information on oversea collections were obtained from the magazine, Fashion Show, and the street fashion information from Seoul Fashion Design Center. The results showed that overall trends presented in oversea collections have been well accepted, while acceptance of specific styles or items varied. During the period of this research, sporty style and feminine style were very strong in the street fashion. Many styles and items were modified and selectively accepted probably because of cultural differences and limitations of mass production. Some styles which were presented in oversea collections were not accepted in Korea, and at the same time some cases were observed only in the street fashion in Korea. The results of this study provide guidelines for Korean apparel companies in merchandise planning and empirical findings to deepen the understanding on Korean society with respect to fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.902-910
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• 2008

A view of the Orientalism that sees the Orient as the inferior Other, characterized by the heterogenic, eccentric, backward, and passive features, has been internalized in the unconsciousness of Westerners. 'Orientalism' which is the cultural device and the system of discourse to put Asia in the fixed frame of dominance was the West European centered term, designating Southwest Asia including South Europe and North Africa as Orient, and contained the idea that non-Western society could progress only with the acceptance of Western civilization. Accordingly, it is need to use this term deliberately. In addition, even though the Asian Look of the West, borrowing the images and costume styles of Asia has lost the original mentality of Asia, it was not initiated from the perception that sees Asia as the inferior Other. Since the Asian Ethnic Look is the Western costume, borrowing the image of Orient and style by being fascinated by Oriental Aesthetics, the attributes of it are different from those of Orientalism. Therefore, it is not appropriate to designate the Asian Ethnic Look as 'Orientalism Fashion' or 'Oriental Look' except for some eccentric manipulation of Asia costume and image. Instead, it is desirable to exchange the term 'Asian Look', 'Asian Fashion', and 'Asian Ethnic Look' upon occasions or the name of individual nation or region can be referred to as preferred alternatives. Today, Asia including Korea is taking the initiative in the World Fashion as one of central axes of World Fashion Industry, and cannot be interpreted from the perspective of West Centrism. Now, it's time to dissolve the dichotomous prejudice of the West centrism on Asia's own strength.