• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권6호
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• pp.923-932
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• 2007

본 연구는 한국과 미국 여대생의 정숙성-비정숙성 개념에 대한 문화적 차이와 유사점을 질적 연구를 통해 알아보기 위한 것이다. 본 연구를 위한 자료수집은 2004년 2월 한국과 미국의 대학에서 동시에 이루어졌다. 전문가집단에 의해 진행된 사전조사에서 정숙성-비정숙성에 관한 심층 인터뷰와 토론내용을 녹음하여 내용 분석한 후, 본 조사를 위한 13개의 질문을 구성하였다. 본 조사에서는 58명의 미국 여대생과 36명의 한국 여대생이 수업시간 중에 질문지에 자유 기술식으로 응답한 후 토론하였으며, 응답의 내용을 내용 분석하였다. 그 결과, 응답자들은 정숙한 옷이란 신체가 드러나지 않도록 덮는 것, 시간과 장소에 적합한 옷, 주변의 지나친 시선을 끌지 않는 옷, 보수적이고 격식을 갖춘 옷이라고 응답하였다. 또한 정숙성과 비정숙성을 판단하는 데는 시간과 장소의 적절성이 밀접하게 연관되어 있으며, 두 나라의 여대생들은 정숙하지 못한 옷, 최신유행의 옷, 부적절한 옷, 섹시한 옷을 구분하여 인식하고 있었다. 한편 미국 여대생들은 정숙성에는 성별에 따른 차이가 있다고 응답한 학생들이 더 많았던 반면, 한국 학생들은 그 반대였으며, 한국 학생들만이 의복의 청결과 관리상태 및 디자인을 정숙성과 연관시켜 생각하였다. 또한 미국학생들은 개인적인 관점에서 정숙성을 인식하는 반면, 한국 학생들은 집단적인 관점에서 인식하고 있어 문화적 차이를 보였다. 본 연구의 결과, 미국 학생들은 정숙한 의복을, 한국 학생들은 비정숙한 의복을 받아들이는 경향이 과거보다 증가하고 있음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권6호
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• pp.918-927
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• 2008

본 연구는 한국과 미국 여대생의 정숙성-비정숙성 개념에 대한 요인분석연구이다. 본 연구는 질적연구와 양적연구를 병행했으며 자료 수집은 2004년 2월부터 6월까지 한국과 미국의 대학에서 동시에 이루어졌다. 전문가 집단에 의해 진행된 사전조사에서 정숙성-비정숙성에 관한 심층 인터뷰와 토론내용을 녹음하여 내용분석 한 후, 본 조사를 위한 13개의 질문을 구성하였다. 58명의 미국 여대생과 36명의 한국 여대생이 수업시간 중에 질문지에 자유기술식으로 응답한 후 토론하였으며, 응답의 내용을 내용 분석하였다. 그 결과 47개의 정숙성 설문문항을 구성하였으며, 한국과 미국에서 예비조사를 거친 후 174명의 미국 여대생과 208명의 한국 여대생을 대상으로 본 조사의 자료를 수집하였다. 수집된 자료를 요인 분석한 결과 정숙성과 비정숙성의 하위개념으로 보수성, 신체노출, 사회적 적합성, 타인주목성의 4개 하위요인이 추출되었다. 각 하위요인에 대한 ANOVA분석결과, 미국 여대생이 보수성에서 더 높은 점수를, 한국 여대생은 신체노출에서 더 높은 값을 나타내어 미국 학생들은 정숙한 의복을, 한국 학생들은 비정숙한 의복을 받아들이는 경향이 과거보다 증가하고 있음을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.60-75
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• 2002

The purpose of this research is to understand the gender identity expressed in Madonna music video texts and performances. Madonna has reconstructed the fluid identities through the variations of body, images, costumes, and attitudes . The results are as fellows; ① Her punky sexuality is to be seen the flash trash look, kitsch fashion, which reconstructs a good/bad taste, modesty/immodesty, the relations of under/outer wear using bawdy sexuality through her early Virgin tour. ② Her Heterosexuality is to be seen the glamourous look, traditional images of women, which represents the passive feminity of patriarch. ③ Her sadomasochism sexuality is to be seen the bondage look of dominatrix image, which deconstructs sexual taboos; represents sexual power. ④ Her bisexuality is to be seen androgynous look, the 3rd species look using masculinity/feminity signifier, which deconstructs the stereotypes of gender roles. ⑤ Her homosexuality is to be seen the fetish fashion by drag and lesbian, which deconstructs the dichotomy of normality/perversion; opens a possibility of women subjectivity of sexual desires.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.189-196
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• 2002

The purpose of this study were to elicit the attitudes toward underwear, to compare the difference according to the demographic variables, and to find the relationship between the attitudes toward underwear and social-psychological characteristics of university female students in Cheongju city. The questionnaires were to measure the attitudes toward underwear, the demographic information, and social-psychological characteristics. As statistical analysis, frequencies, mean, t-test, F-test, factor analysis, and correlation were used. The results were as follows: 1) The female students regarded tactile sensation of underwear fabrics as the important element in their attitude toward underwear, while they showed a little interest about gorgeous underwear style. 2) The freshman students have strongly. fixed ideas about the under wear, the other(sophomore, junior, senior) students showed more interest in decorative and fashionable aspects of underwear. 3) The attitudes toward underwear were classifies into six factors; intension about high quality, decorative design, stereotype, immodesty, style and comfort. 4) There were partially significant differences according to demographic variables in the attitudes toward underwear. 5) Also, there were significant correlations between the social-psychological characteristics and the attitudes toward underwear.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1261-1274
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• 1997

Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the outside has shown disclosure, destruction, poverty and analysis. The conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The Deconstruction of disclosure by infra disclosed the underwear and inner structure outside, which has deconstructed a fixed idea i.e.'underwear must be in outwear', modesty versus immodesty and disclosure versus concealment. 2. The Deconstruction of destruction originated in punk look has rejected traditional manners and utility, at the same time, it has shown the ambivalence i.e. completeness versus incompleteness, making versus destructing by slashes, rips, fringes. 3. The Deconstruction of poverty has appeared as French avangarde mode, little black dress by Chanel, second hand style by hippy, blue jean, granny look, especially Rei Kawakubo's poor look influenced by Zen Aesthetics and post punk. It has looked like old and worn out dress by doing patchwork, dye, decolor, rip, fray, which has shown the decentring by concealing the body than disclosing, rejecting snobbery. 4. The Deconstruction of analysis, seemingly partial and patched is a violation only of our expectation of clothing's unbroken entity though it has looked like a fragment. The completeness and coherence of it is made more evident by its breach, void, and bond like a poetic language. As the result, disclosed, destructed, poor, and analytical costumes has expressed as an escape from the appearance which traditional aesthetic concept had pursued.