Fashion & Textile Research Journal (한국의류산업학회지)

The Society of Fashion and Textile Industry (한국의류산업학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Formative Characteristics and Symbolic Meanings of Emphasizing Phallus in Costume - Focusing on Codpiece -

복식에 나타난 남근 강조의 조형적 특성과 상징적 의미 - 코드피스를 중심으로 -

  • Bae, Yun Jee (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Seoul National University) ;
  • Ha, Ji Soo (Dept. of Clothing & Textile, Seoul National University)
  • Received : 2013.12.21
  • Accepted : 2014.02.25
  • Published : 2014.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

The purpose of this study is to comprehensively re-interpret the garments that emphasize a phallus such as codpiece throughout history. Perspective to understand the codpiece is extremely limited in most studies, thus it could be refocused in historical perspectives, formative point of views, and from a psychological point of view from various angles. A literature study of research methods and case studies were combined in order to investigate the emphasis of phallus' appearing in costumes. The following results were obtained. First of all, in length, the form of emphasizing a phallus tended to be distorted as it was protruding. Secondly, in area and volume, the forms of the phallus were mostly exaggerated or expanded. For the last, it drew strong attention with particular detail to the phallus, such as ribbons and swordbelts. The symbolic meaning of various garments with which emphasized a phallus has changed in social context through history. Doubtlessly, it represents patriarchal ideology. Also, it expresses dramatic eroticism due to the theory of immodesty. However, the meaning of it becomes more decentralized through reinterpretation of ideal male suits for modern society and turns into a representational tool of sub-culture. In addition, it could broaden out the new way of fashion expression.

Keywords

References

  1. 'Alexander McQueen'. (2009). vogue.co.uk. Retrieved December 5, 2012, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2009/mens/alexander-mcqueen
  2. Anne Hollander. (1995). Sex and suits. New York: Kodansha America, INC.
  3. 'Blackie Lawless, WASP'. (n.d.). last.com. Retrieved December 1, 2012, from http://www.last.fm/music/Blackie+Lawless/+images/71187882
  4. Blanks, T. (2007). 'John Galliano Collection Review'. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2008MEN-JNGALLNO
  5. Bumpus, J. (2009). 'Alexander McQueen Collection Review'. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2009/mens/al exander-mcqueen
  6. Bumpus, J. (2011). 'John Galliano Collection Review'. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumnwinter-2010/mens/john-galliano
  7. Bumpus, J. (2014). 'Versace Collection Review'. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2013/mens/versace
  8. 'Codpiece'. (n.d.). wikipedia. Retrieved December 7, 2012, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Codpiece
  9. Dictionary compilation of Fashion Professional Resources Committee. (2005). Fashion professional resources dictionary. Seoul : Korea dictionary research company.
  10. 'Henry XIII'. (n.d.). wikipedia. Retrieved December 5, 2012, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Workshop_of_Hans_Holbein_the_Younger_-_Portrait_of_Henry_VIII_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg
  11. 'John Galliano'. (2008). vogue.co.uk. Retrieved December 5, 2012, from http: //www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2008/mens/john-galliano
  12. 'John Galliano'. (2011). vogue.co.uk. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2010/mens/johngalliano
  13. Jung, H. S. (2000). A history of fashion. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  14. Jung, W. J., & Paeng, S. K. (1996). The influence that the costume style of ancient crete had on the western costume. Journal of Science Education, 16, 105-119.
  15. Kim, M. J., Choi, H. S., Kim, Y. H., Ha, J. S., Choi, S. H., & Ko, H. J. (2010). Western fashion multi-contents. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  16. 'Koteka'. (n.d.). wikipedia. Retrieved December 7, 2012, from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Koteka
  17. Lee, D. Y. (2002). A study of occurrence and materiality in the men's trousers. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungshin Women's University, Seoul.
  18. Lee, I. J., Lee, K. H., & Shin, H. J. (2001). Psychology of dress. Seoul: Kyomunsa.
  19. Lee, K. H. (2012). Fashion design and sensibility. Seoul: Kyungchoonsa.
  20. Lee, M. S. (2001). Transactions : Patriarchism, feminism, post-modern femi nism and masculinity in men's fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(2), 470-481.
  21. Lüttenberg, T. (2005). The cod-piece-A renaissance fashion between sign and artefact. The Medieval History Journal, 8, 49-81. https://doi.org/10.1177/097194580400800104
  22. 'Marilyn Manson'. (n.d.). terriking.com. Retrieved December 1, 2012, from http://terriking.com/custom-clothing
  23. 'Moncler Gamme Bleu'. (2012). style.com. Retrieved January 9, 2014, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/complete/S2012MENMGBLEU
  24. Murphy, C. (2012). Clothing or decoration: Exploring the penis sheath of papua new guinea. Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings, Paper 717. pp. 1-5.
  25. Philippev. T. (2003). 'Koteka! size is not a sign of status'. Retrieved December 7, 2012, from http://www.westpapua.ca/?q=en/node/43
  26. Reed, C. S. (2004). The codpiece: social fashion or medical need?. Internal Medicine Journal, 34, 684-686. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1445-5994.2004.00635.x
  27. Standen, D. (2011) 'Moncler Gamme Bleu Collection Review'. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2012MEN- MGBLEU
  28. Tetart-Vittu. F. (2006). The Complete Costume History. Koln ; Los Angeles : Taschen.
  29. 'Thome Browne'. (2008). vogue.co.uk. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/spring-summer-2008/mens/thom-browne
  30. 'Versace'. (2014). vogue.co.uk. Retrieved January 7, 2014, from http://www.vogue.co.uk/fashion/autumn-winter-2013/mens/versace
  31. Viacary, G. Q. (1989). Visual art as social data: The renaissance codpiece. Cultural Anthropology, 4(1), 3-25. https://doi.org/10.1525/can.1989.4.1.02a00010
  32. Ye, J. H. (2011). 'The return of rough men'. Retrieved February 12, 2014, from http://www.fi.co.kr/main/view.asp?SectionStr=World&idx=36015&NewsDate=2011-05-23
  33. Yoon, J. S. (1996). A study on the analytic and synthetic structures of costume in Renaissance. Academic Journal of Honam University, 17(2), 799-821.