• Title/Summary/Keyword: Garments

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Investigations into the Influencing Fabric Properties Factors of the 3D Shape Evaluation of Korean Hanbok Chima

  • Park, Soon-Jee
    • International Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.7 no.1
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    • pp.37-52
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    • 2006
  • This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

Incidence and Correlates of Urinary Incontinence in Women (여성의 요실금 빈도와 관련 요인에 대한 조사 연구)

  • 윤혜상;노유자
    • Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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    • v.27 no.3
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    • pp.683-693
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    • 1997
  • Urinary incontinence is defined as the involuntary and inappropriate loss of urine to failure to emit normal responses as the bladder fills, or inability to reach the bathroom in sufficient time. This study was undertaken to estimate the incidence of urinary incontinence and to determine the correlates of urinary incontinence among women. Subjects of this survey consisted of 408 women, 26 to 83 years old in Incheon. The results of this study are as follows. 1. Of the subjects 50.7% reported urine loss once or twice per year and 28.5% reported incontinence on a regular basis at least once per month. 2. 40.5% of women reported small volume accidents of only 1 to 2 drops, 31.4% ; 1 t-spoon, 16.9% : 1 T-spoon, while 10.1% of women couldn't estimate the volume of urine loss. 3. The volume of urine loss was great enough to require a change of garment (undergarments or outer garments) in 73%. But only 3.8% of those used some type of pads. 4. 56.5% of incontinent women didn't talk about their urinary incontinence with other persons because they felt that urinary incontinence was shameful(38.4%), was not a disease(31.6%), was incurable in spite of treatment(27.4%) and was fearful of being uncured (2.6%). 5. Only 15.5% of urinary incontinent women had sought treatment. 6. The incidence of urinary incontinence was significantly higher in women who had more pariety and uterine-ovarian disease, older age, worrying about where toilets were when they visited new places or voiding anxiety, nocturia and frequency, but was significantly lower in women who had coffee intake. The incidence of urinary incontinence was not related to smoking and enuresis. The results indicate that urinary incontinence is common among young and middle-aged women. That few seek treatment for urinary incontinence suggests a need for more information about women's attitudes toward urinary incontinence and more attention to this problem by health care providers.

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A Study on Current State in Stitches and Seams Usage for Building Smart Sewing Systems: Focused on Sewing Specification of Cut and Sewn Knit (스마트 봉제 시스템 구축을 위한 스티치 및 솔기 사용 현황에 관한 고찰: 컷 앤 쏘운 니트 의류 봉제사양서를 중심으로)

  • Lee, Suyeon;Ha, Hee Jung
    • Human Ecology Research
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    • v.58 no.3
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    • pp.357-374
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    • 2020
  • This study suggests the use of standardized sewing terms for the construction of smart sewing systems. This study analyzed the use of stitches (ISO 4915) and seams (ISO 4916) for cut and sewn knit garment which are the basic elements of sewing on an ISO basis. The results of the analysis of sewing specifications of cut and sewn knit garments are as follows. First, the use of stitches and seams were analyzed. As a result, both stitches and seams were used as non-standard terms. Second, among 3,263 stitches, ISO 4915 No. 406 followed by 401, 504, 605 were the most frequently used; however, ISO 4915 No. 514 was anticipated the most because the ISO 4915 No. 514 used for joining was not recorded in the sewing specification. Finally, the use of stitch for each seam was analyzed. The most common stitch used for ISO 4916 No. 6.02.07 was ISO 4915 No. 406. In addition, when it was sewing ISO 4916 No. 4.04.01, ISO 4915 No. 504 was used in step 1, and ISO 4915 No. 406, 602, and 605 were used in step 2. It is important to use the international standard sewing terms for the production site based on the results. In addition, the construction of smart sewing systems and the work of international standardization through industry-university cooperation are important for securing global competitiveness. Therefore, the use of international standard terminology and practical training should be conducted with a focus on stitching and seams with high frequency of use.

The application of Catholic Ceremonial Clothes to Modern Fashion Design (가톨릭 전례복을 응용한 현대복식 디자인)

  • 최현숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.34
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    • pp.209-223
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    • 1997
  • Religion has originated with mankind has developed with mankind and the ap-pearance of Christianity has made a greater contribution to forming the basis of European civilization than any other event. In the Middle Ages in succession to the Roman Ages the foundation of society was so laid centering around Christianity that the garments of religion leaders had greatly affected clothes of the common people as well as political economy. In this view-point it has an educational significance to study vestment of the time when Christianity was prevailing value of society. Thefore this study has tried to examine Catholic ceremonial clothes revolving around the Middle Ages when Christianity had been propagated and it has treated of the clothes of Catholic to have produced a great effect on the culture of the Middle Ages, The method of this study was to inquire into the definition and history of Catholic clothes through the first data of the real-thing data from the museums and the sec-ond of the literature data and photo sam-ples that show the application of above said elements to modern fashion. Results are eight pieces of work: four pieces of Computer Simulation and four pieces of the real-thing production to represent the image found in Catholic ceremonial clothes. The results of the study are as follows. First it has been elicited to be able to satisfy the costume aeshtics that modern society requires introducing brilliance and esthetic elements for these patterns to have by applying the ones expressed in the cere-monial clothes. Second it has been found to be able to make a fashion design with the modern style supported by history by making a proper mixture of the simple silhouette and a luxurious decoration shown in Catholic ceremonial clothes. Third it has been presented to be able to serve in the worldly area if even a religious motive get out of in the area of a solemn image and it is applied to a modern fash-ion.

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A Study on the Apparels of Shamanism during Cho Sun Dynasty (조선시대 무속복식연구-좌당 내력을 중심으로-)

  • 조효순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.34
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    • pp.195-208
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    • 1997
  • 1) The color of JOGORI and CHIMA was such gorgeous and those garments were put on during the events of GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI HO-GU-GEO-RI JO-SANG-GEO-RI DEWT-JUN and CHAN-BOO-GEO-RI. 2)BULSA-JANG-SAM(JE-SUK-GEO-RI) was white colored and had wide sleeves putting on a pink priestrobe and a pink belt on it 3) they put on HONG-CHUL-NIK(GU-REUNG) and CHONG-CHUL-NIK(DAE-GEO-RI). 4)They put on GOO-GUN-BOK(JUN-RIP JUN-BOK(BYUL-SUNG-GEO-RI) DONG-DA-RI(Expel the demon) 5) MONG-DOO-RI(MAN-SIN-MAL-BYUNG) put on the garment constructed with the color and from of a white straight collar a wide sleeve and a pink belt 6) A long robe was colored with green (GAM-EUNG-CHUNG-BAI) and was used not as a headdress but as a man's overcoat. 7) CHANG-EUI was a green colored small CHAHG-EUI(SUNG-JO-GEO-RI). As observed above the Shaman apprel during Chosun Dynasty is a part of the traditional clothing originated from THE THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and THEORY OF THE COSMIC DUAL FORCES and the FIVE ELEMENTS (i.e. metal wood water fire and earth) It's basic form and wearing method were not so different from the traditional clothing silmilar to the official uniform during Chosun Dynasty and the official uniform was the symbol of authority(almost almighty) at that time of period and to that the Shaman apparel was constructed with the more gorgeous colors to emphasize the sanctity or the descent of the Divine Being from heaven. We realized that a Shaman had put on the symbolic garment suitable for the grade and nature of the Divine Body at every events to enter into " The World of Gods"Gods."

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Communication Characteristics of Fashion Shows Using Digital Images (디지털 영상을 활용한 패션쇼의 커뮤니케이션 특성)

  • Hong, Hye Rim;Kim, Young In
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.6
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 2014
  • In the fashion industry, the thing that shows the latest trends and makes issues is the fashion show. The function of fashion shows is changing from a promotional mean to a method of communication with customers. Recently, some fashion shows have used digital images and omitted traditional parts of a fashion show such as models, stages, garments, music and audiences. In this study, 30 fashion shows that used digital images were selected from the 2000-2010 collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York, and its communication characteristics were analyzed and discussed. The three categories of the communication characteristics are as follows: First, the shows used digital images as stage sceneries or effects to create desired stage effects. The digital images were used as extra tools to reinforce the concept of the fashion show. Second, the fashion shows used real-time videos to extend its presentation into the virtual space. The interactive videos were designed to encourage audiences to actively participate in the show. Third, the digital images were the focus of the show for the internet-only digital fashion shows. Since the Internet is not constrained by time or space, multi-faceted, communication between audiences and fashion designers or among audiences is possible. In addition, the number of audience it can reach is higher than traditional fashion shows. Digital images will be used more often in the fashion shows. In the future, fashion shows will try to become more interactive with audiences through the use of new digital image technology.

A Study on Wonsam (Korea Wedding Dress) in 18th Century through the Analysis of the Historical Documents and the Excavated Clothing (자료 분석을 통해 본 18세기 원삼(圓衫)의 유래와 착용)

  • Chang, In-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.5
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2014
  • This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

Comparison of Design Preferences in the Hawaiian Shirt and Current Market

  • Bahng, Youngjin;Reilly, Andrew
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.20 no.4
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    • pp.379-388
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    • 2018
  • The Hawaiian shirt, also known as the Aloha shirt, is a short-sleeved, colorful shirt with traditional Polynesian designs (e.g., hibiscus, fish) originating in Hawai'i. The shirt was selected for study because it is a unique garment that originated in the Hawaiian Islands in the late $19^{th}$ and $20^{th}$ centuries and marketed as a tourist product but was eventually adopted as appropriate residential clothing by the $mid-20^{th}$ century, however with different aesthetic details. Today, it is assumed by Hawaiian Island residents that tourists demonstrate poor taste when selecting a Hawaiian shirt. The purposes of this study are to examine the validity of the assumption that tourist taste and resident taste in Hawaiian shirts are different and to investigate the current Hawaiian shirt market change. For this study, 555 questionnaires were obtained from tourists and residents, and 10 Hawaiian shirt retailers/wholesalers participated in in-depth interviews. The results indicated that differences do exist between tourists' and residents' preferences for print designs and colorway. The market change of Hawaiian shirts was also recognizable in that an increasing number of tourists select Hawaiian shirts similar to resident customers, as part of their routine lives rather than as holiday or vacation garments. Other differences in Hawaiian shirt shopping behavior included the findings that tourists consider fabrication less important than resident customers who consider fabrication more (i.e., cotton 100%). By using both quantitative and qualitative methods, this study contributes to the fashion design and marketing field as well as help manufacturers and retailers with their merchandise and distribution plans.

A Comparative Study on the Upper Garment in the Ancient East and West (고대(古代) 동서양(東西洋) 상의(上衣) 비교연구(比較硏究))

  • Yu, Song-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.3
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    • pp.29-46
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    • 1980
  • The purpose of this thesis is to find out how the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and est had been influenced with each other. Analytical studies conclude the fellowing findings: 1) Upper garment styles in the feat Asia and the Egypt already highly developed in 28th century B.C. and show us the original style of the wrap-over to the left and that of the round neckline(曲領). Upper garment of the open in the center front shown in Babylonia in 18th century B.C. had been inherited to the caftan of the Hebrew and later succeeded to the Persia. 2) The tunic styles of the round neckline, the wrap-over to the left and the open in the cotter front, which were the basic styles of the upper garment, had teen widely accepted to the central Asia and the East Asia, as well as the Northern Europe, from the West Asia. 3) The styles of the wrap-over to the right originated from China since it had begun to show in the Shang Dynasty(商代, 殷代). 4) The East and the West costumes had been very much intermixed in 4th century B.C. Alexander the Great of Macedoria in 4th century B.C. expanded his territory to the central Asia and built up the Bacteria, when the most western civilization had been greatly transmitted to the Orient. Meanwhile the tunic being clad in the West and Central Asia began to be worn by soldiers in the period of the Warring States in China (326-299 B.C.) and afterwards worn even by civil officials since the age of the T'ang Dynasty of China. 5) The Upper garments of the open in the center front, the wrap-over to the right, the wrap-over to the left and the round neckline were found in Korea, which mean that the upper garment styles in the Ancient Korea were intermixed of the factors from the West Asia, the central Asia and the East Asia. 6) The styles of costume in the East Asia were influenced by the West Asia through the central Asia. The upper garment styles Europe were also influenced by the West Asia. Thus the upper garment styles in the Ancient East and West had been mutually affected with each other.

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Comparative Study on Avatar's Clothing Image and Casual Brand Image based on Avatar's Fashion Marketing (아바타 패션마케팅에 따른 아바타 의복 이미지와 캐주얼 브랜드 이미지 비교 연구)

  • Jang Seung-Hee;Lee Sun-Jae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.55 no.5 s.95
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    • pp.28-42
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    • 2005
  • Objectives of this study were to investigate about the avatar's fashion products efficiency on casual wear advertisements to study about the effect of avatar's clothing image provided by apparel industry and to investigate about the effort of avatar's fashion product on apparel advertisement for fundamental data on the avatar's fashion marketing. Following were the summaries of the results: First, in terms of the correlation between avatar's clothing and casual brand images of nate avatar's fashion marketing, avatar's clothing image of FUBU male, female and maru male, female that is reformative, characteristical, unique and sensitive to latest fashion has positive correlation with FUBU and maru brand images. Therefore, consumers' higher perception on avatar's clothing image that are 'reformative', 'characteristical' and 'unique', indicated higher casual brand image perception, proving avatar's clothing image is effective in suggesting the brand. Second, in terms of advertising the avatar by clothing them with garments of each brand and comparing avatar's clothing and casual brand images, active avatar's clothing image of FUBU male, female emphasized active brand image of FUBU. However, FUBU male avatar's clothing image did not emphasize 'reformative', 'characteristical', 'cool', or 'sensitive to latest fashion' images compared to FUBU female avatar's clothing image. Also, in case of maru, 'male', 'conseuative' and 'insensitive to latest fashion' image of male avatar clothing emphasized maru brand image. Maru female's 'unpractical' ,'female' and 'characteristical' images emphasized maru brand image.