• YAKHAK HOEJI
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• v.57 no.2
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• pp.125-131
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• 2013

Biologically active peptides, including growth factors and cytokines, participate in various biological processes in human skin. They could provide a great advantage of maintaining healthy skin. Many peptide growth factors like epidermal growth factor (EGF) and human growth hormone (hGH) have been used in cosmetic formulations. The delivery of peptide growth factors across the Stratum corneum, however, seems not sufficient because of their physical properties such as high molecular weight and hydrophilicity. So increasing the penetration of growth factors of interest into skin would be a major concern for ensuring their maximum biological efficacy. In this study, we have identified several skin penetration-enhancing peptides which facilitate delivery of growth factors, when fused at N-terminus of the target protein, into skin. For efficient and rapid screening, we constructed a skin-penetrating assay system using Franz cell and porcine skin. Next, we carried out phage display screening using M-13 bacteriophage with random 12 -amino acid library on its coat protein P3 on that system. After several selection rounds, peptide sequences facilitate the penetration of phages through the porcine skin were identified from a large population of phages. We found that phages with the most potent peptide (S3-2, NGSLNTHLAPIL) could penetrate the porcine skin eight times more than those with control peptide (12 mino acids scrambled peptide). Furthermore, growth factors conjugated with S3-2 peptide penetrate porcine skin three to five times efficiently than non-conjugated growth factors. In conclusion, our data shows that the skin penetration-enhancing peptide we have characterized could increase the delivery of growth factors and is useful for cosmeceutical application.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2004

Geniposide and its related iridoid compounds have been used in traditional herbal medicine for thε treatment of Jaundice hepatic diseases and various inflammatorys. For the purpose to increase trandsdermal absorption, the hydrolyzed products of Gardeniae Furctus were identified and assayed of active ingredients and investigated trandsdermal absorption and anti-inflammatory effects. Geniposide was hydrolyzed to genipin by ${\beta}-glucosidase$ and it was suggested that genipin was more suitable form than geniposide for transdermal absorption by its lipophilic property. Using Franz type diffusion cell and the skin of hairless mouse, the permeation rate of hydrolyzed products and their emulsion preparation were determined. Genipin have more increased absorption ratio through the skin of hairless mouse than geniposide. Also, the emulsion of hydrolyzed products of extracts showed higher permeability than that of nonhydrolyzed preparations. After 9 hours $280.85\;{\mu}g/cm^2$ of genipin was absorbed and $193.52\;{\mu}g/cm^2$ in case of geniposide. The Js of geniposide and genipin were $26.27{\pm}4.11\;{\mu}g/cm^2/hr$ and $40.35{\pm}5.04\;{\mu}g/cm^2/hr$ respectively. After carrageenan injection, the swelling was increased repidly to 24 hr and maintained as plateau. but emulsion group weer reached about 2.5 mL and the swelling decreased successively form 24 hr to 72 hr. The anti-inflammation effects of extracts and hydrolyzed products emulsion were increased with significant difference with control group after 24 hr, 48 hr and 72 hr. In carrageenan induced edema, inhibition of swelling was increased in case of hydrolyzed product emulsion compare with nonhydrolyzed group at 24 hr, 48 hr and 72 hr after swelling. In histological study, the anti-inflammatory effects of hydrolyzed products were remarkable at 48 hr and 72 hr compare with nonhydrolyzed. Hydrolyzed products of Gardeniae Fructus extracts containing genipin would be a suitable preparation to increase the transdermal absorption and anti-inflammatory effects.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.367-374
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• 2014

In this study, skin permeation enhancement was confirmed by designing it to have a structure and composition similarity to the intercellular lipids that improve miscibility with skin by cross-linked lipids poloxamer. The cross-linked lipids poloxamer was synthesized and analyzed by 1H NMR that structure dose had conjugated pluronic with ceramide3. Active component is released by modification of liquid crystal structure because PPO part, large-scale molecule block of pluronic, has hydrophobic nature at skin temperature of $35^{\circ}C$. Conjugated pluronic with ceramide3 was synthesized using Pluronic F127 and p-NPC (4-nitrophenyl chloroformate) at room temperature yielded 89%. Pluronic(Ceramide 3-conjugated Pluronic) was synthesized by reaction of p-NP-Pluronic with Ceramide3 and DMAP. The yield was 51%. This cross-linked lipids poloxamer was blended and dissolved at isotropic state with skin surface lipids, phospholipid, ceramide, cholesterol and anhydrous additive solvent. Next step was preceded by ${\alpha}$-Transition at low temperature for making the structure of Meso-Phase Lamella, and non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal using thermo-sensitivity smart sensor, lamellar liquid crystal structure through aging time. For confirmation of conjugation thermo-sensitivity smart sensor and non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal, structural observation and stability test were performed using XRD(Xray Diffraction), DSC(Differential Scanning Calorimetry), PM (Polarized Microscope) And C-SEM (Cryo-Scanning Electron Microscope). Thermo-sensitivity observation by Franz cell revealed that synthesized smart sensor shown skin permeation effect over 75% than normal liquid crystal. Furthermore, normal non-hydrous skin analogue liquid crystal that not applied smart sensor shown similar results below $35^{\circ}C$ of skin temperature, but its effects has increased more than 30% above $35^{\circ}C$.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.41 no.1
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• pp.9-18
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• 2024

Smilax china is known for its excellent antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties. As a foundational study for applying the functionality of Smilax china extracts to cosmetics, it is necessory to investigate the concentration-dependent skin permation characteristics of the flavonoids in the extract, namely quercetin, catechin, and naringenin. Therefore, it serves as a crucial method for conducting this basic research on the functional aspects fo Smilax china extracts for cosmetic applications. This investigation focused on examining the percutaneous permeability characteristics of flavonoids originating from Smilax china. Applying Marzulli's definition, the Kp value of quercetin was categorized as "fast" at 0.1 mg/mL and "moderate" at 0.2 and 0.4 mg/mL. Notably, the permeation rate exhibited a decline with increasing concentration. For naringenin, Flux values were 0.69, 1.07, and 1.42 ㎍/hr/cm² at concentrations of 0.1, 0.2, and 0.4 mg/mL, respectively, with corresponding Kp values of 6.95, 5.34, and 3.56. Naringenin's Kp value fell into the "moderate" category across all concentrations, and as observed with quercetin, the permeation rate decreased with higher concentrations. Likewise, for catechin, Flux values were 0.75, 1.09, and 1.66 ㎍/hr/cm², and corresponding Kp values were 7.55, 5.46, and 4.16. Catechin's Kp value was consistently classified as "moderate" across all concentrations. The efficacy of quercetin, catechin, and naringenin, active ingredients in high-performance and anti-inflammatory Smilax china extracts, was found to exhibit skin penetration properties above the average. This confirms their suitability as excellent natural materials for use in functional cosmetics, given their outstanding capabilities in preventing acne and reducing inflammation.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.165-172
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• 2015

Quercetin and its glycoside, rutin, are flavonoids, which are well known as natural antioxidants. In this study, cationic liposomes loaded with flavonoids (quercetin or rutin) were investigated for their effects on cell and skin permeability, and protective effects against UVA. The particle size of the empty cationic liposomes was in the range of 100~130 nm, and the zeta potential was + 33.05 mV. The entrapment efficiency of 0.5R/CL was higher than that of 0.5 Q/CL. The cellular uptake of the cationic liposomes was five-fold higher than that of liposomes. The skin permeability of quercetin and rutin was investigated using Franz diffusion cells. Compared to the initial loading dose, the amount of quercetin or rutin delivered to the skin by cationic liposomes was higher than that delivered by conventional liposomes or phosphate-buffered saline. From the protective effect of cationic liposomes against UVA ($25J/cm^2$), we found that the cell viability in cationic liposomes containing flavonoids was higher than that of using UVA irradiation only. These results indicate that cationic liposomes provide enhanced delivery of flavonoids (quercetin and rutin) into the skin and may be used for antiaging and antioxidant cosmetics.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• v.21 no.12
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• pp.1280-1286
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• 2011

A quantitative, real-time PCR method was developed to enumerate Lactobacillus plantarum IWBT B 188 during the malolactic fermentation (MLF) in Grauburgunder wine. The qRT-PCR was strain-specific, as it was based on primers targeting a plasmid DNA sequence, or it was L. plantarum-specific, as it targeted a chromosomally located plantaricin gene sequence. Two 50 l wine fermentations were prepared. One was inoculated with 15 g/hl Saccharomyces cerevisiae, followed by L. plantarum IWBT B 188 at $3.6{\times}10^6$ CFU/ml, whereas the other was not inoculated (control). Viable cell counts were performed for up to 25 days on MRS agar, and the same cells were enumerated by qRT-PCR with both the plasmid or chromosomally encoded gene primers. The L. plantarum strain survived under the harsh conditions in the wine fermentation at levels above $10^5$/ml for approx. 10 days, after which cell numbers decreased to levels of $10^3$ CFU/ml at day 25, and to below the detection limit after day 25. In the control, no lactic acid bacteria could be detected throughout the fermentation, with the exception of two sampling points where ca. $1{\times}10^2$ CFU/ml was detected. The minimum detection level for quantitative PCR in this study was $1{\times}10^2$ to $1{\times}10^3$ CFU/ml. The qRT-PCR results determined generally overestimated the plate count results by about 1 log unit, probably as a result of the presence of DNA from dead cells. Overall, qRT-PCR appeared to be well suited for specifically enumerating Lactobacillus plantarum starter cultures in the MLF in wine.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.116-126
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• 2013

Glycol ethers are a group of solvents based on alkyl ethers of ethylene glycol commonly used in paints. These solvents typically have a higher boiling point, together with the favorable solvent properties of lower-molecular weight ethers and alcohols. The word "Glycol ethers" was registered as a United States trademark by Union Carbide Corp. Typically, glycol ethers are found in pharmaceuticals, sunscreens, cosmetics, inks, dyes and water based paints. On the other hand, glycol ethers are used in degreasers, cleaners, aerosol paints and adhesives. Most glycol ethers are relatively water soluble, biodegradable and only a few are considered toxic. Therefore, they are unlikely to pose an adverse risk to the environment. Recent study suggests that occupational exposure to glycol ethers is related to low motile sperm count in men, but the finding has been disputed by others. In this study, skin permeation of 3 types glycol ethers were studied in vitro using matrix such as solvent and detergent. The absorption of glycol ethers[methyl glycol ethers(MC), ethyl glycol ethers(EC) and butyl glycol ethers(BC)] has been measured in vitro through rat skin. Epidermal membranes were set up in Franz diffusion cells and their permeability to PBS measured to establish the integrity of the skin before the glycol ethers were applied to the epidermal surface. Absorption rates for each glycol ethers were determined and permeability assessment made to quantify any irreversible alterations in barrier function due to contact with the esters. Types of glycol ethers in vitro experimental results on MC> EC> BC quickly appeared in the following order: skin permeation was beneficial to the skin permeation small molecular weight, the difference in chemical structure, such as hydrophilic, because with the partition coefficient and solubility mechanisms and passive diffusion to increase the speed at which transmission is considered.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.147-157
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• 2023

Centella asiatica extract is widely used as a raw material for cosmetics due to its various effects, but it is difficult to expect penetration into the skin due to its high molecular weight and low solubility. In order to solve these problems, lipid-based liposomes of various types were developed to increase skin absorption. Therefore, in this study, we tried to increase the skin absorption rate by preparing transfersomes using surfactants as edge activators in existing liposomes. Liposome and transfersomes containing Span 80 and Tween 20, 60, 80, and 85, respectively, were prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer, and we evaluated the particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and skin absorption rate. As a result, there was almost no change in the physical properties of particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential from 25 ℃ to 60 d, and the particle size of transfersomes containing Tween 20, 60, and 80 increased after 60 d at 45 ℃. Madecassoside, main substances of the Centella asiatica extract was used as an standard and madecassoside was measured and calculated when measuring the skin absorption rate using Franz diffusion cells. As a result, formulations containing Tween 20 were the most, whereas formulations containing Span 80 were the least. According to the skin absorption coefficient (Kp) value, all formulations showed 'very fast', and the absorption rate was similar or greater than that of liposomes, except for formulations containing Span 80. Through this, it was confirmed that the larger the HLB value of the nonionic surfactant, the smaller the particle size of the transfersome, and the increased skin absorption rate due to the increased flexibility of the vesicle membrane. Through this study, transfersome using surfactant as an edge activator can be expected to solve local skin problems not only as a cosmetic raw material or product, but also by increasing skin absorption.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.417-422
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• 2005

This study was aimed to design and formulate the moisture-activated patches containing ofloxacin and lidocaine for antibacterial and local anesthetic action. The solubility of lidocaine at $32^{\circ}C$ in various vehicles decreased in the rank order of PG $759.5{\pm}44.5\;mg/mL$ > PGL > IPM > PEG 300 > PEG 400 > Ethanol > PGMC > DGME > PGML > OA > $Captex^{\circledR}\;300$ > $Captex^{\circledR}\;200$ > water $(4.0{\pm}0.1\;mg/mL)$. Ofloxacin revealed very low solubility, which the highest solubility was obtained from PEG 400 $(18.7{\pm}6.3\;mg/mL)$ among the vehicles used. The addition of lactic acid increased the solubility of ofloxacin dramatically; the solubility at 5% lactic acid was $133.7{\pm}9.7\;mg/mL$. As $2-hydroxypropyl-{\beta}-cyclodextrin$ was added at the concentrations of 40, 80, 120, 160 and 200 mM, the solubilities of lidocaine and ofloxacin were enhanced up to three and two times, respectively, with concentration-dependent pattern. Gel intermediates for filmtype patches were prepared with mucoadhesive polymer, viscosity builders, lidocaine or ofloxacin at pH values from 5 to 7. Gels were cast onto a release liner and dried at room temperature. Dried patch was attached onto an adhesive backing layer, thus forming a patch system. Patches containing a single drug component were characterized by in vitro measurement of drug release rates through a cellulose barrier membrane. The release study was carried out at $37^{\circ}C$ using a Franz-type cell. Receptor solutions were isotonic phosphate buffers (pH 7.4). Samples $(100\;{\mu}L)$ were taken over 24 hours and quantitated by a verified HPLC method. The releases from all tested were proportional to the square root of time. The release rates were 0.9, 157.3 and $281.7\;{\mu}g/cm^{2}/min^{1/2}$ for the lidocaine patches and 19.8,37.2 and $50.7\;{\mu}g/cm^{2}/min^{1/2}$ for the ofloxacin patches at the concentrations of 0.3, 0.5 and 1 %, respectively. The release rates were dose dependent in both drug patches $(R^{2}\;=\;0.9077\;for\;lidocaine;\;R^{2}\;=\;0.9949\;for\;ofloxacin)$ and those were also thickness-dependent $(R^{2}\;=\;0.9246\;for\;lidocaine;\;R^{2}\;=\;0.9512\;for\;ofloxacin)$.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.33 no.1 s.60
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

It has been generally known that liposomes become unstable when they contain cyclodextrins (CDs). Our present studies demonstrate that these liposomes can be stable by association of amphiphilic polyelectrolytes. Transmission electron microscopy and photocorrelation spectroscopy results showed that polymer-associated liposomes containing CDs (${\beta}-CD$(${\beta}CD$) and hydroxypropyl-${\beta}CD$ ($HP{\beta}CD$)) were more stable than phosphatidylcholine (PC)-cholesterol (Chol) liposomes containing these CDs. We also compared the stability of PC-Chol liposomes with polymer-associated liposomes containing $HP{\beta}CD$ complexed with water-insoluble drug, rhaponticin (Rh). Two liposomes were relatively stable when $HP{\beta}CD$ did not contain Rh, but Rh-$HP{\beta}CD$ complexes triggered the disruption of PC-Chol liposomes. In contrast, polymer-associated Liposomes containing Rh-$HP{\beta}CD$ complexes maintained its stability over 6 months. The skin permeation test demonstrated that drugs solubilized by CDs were delivered better into the skin of guinea pig by using polymer-associated liposomes than by using PC-Chol liposomes. Above results showed that polymer-associated liposomes gave an effective way to stabilize the liposomes containing drug-loaded CDs, which gives an application of liposomes in drug delivery systems.