• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.141-154
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• 2016

The gilt-bronze decorated bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in 1973 at Cheonma Tomb of Shilla are the unprecedented relics in Korean history as it has its original structure. Although the bamboo mudguards were excavated in not only Cheonma Tomb, but also in Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong, all of them remains into pieces. In addition, there are no exact data related with its structure and manufacturing technique. The report deals with the manufacturing technique of the bamboo mudguards with heavenly horse design excavated in Cheonma Tomb through the naked eye's observation, X-Ray Fluorescence, and Transmission X-rays analysis etc. Bamboo mudguards basically have the three divided structure with central-focus structure of a radiation style. And the mudguards consists of Bratticing gilt-bronze, fabric, and bamboo plates together, as ornamental fringe of 4 plates. The surface of the gilt bronze plates was decorated with a variety of workmanship and pendant. Bamboo plates have a waved pattern by using about three hundred bamboo bark. Two types of textiles were mainly found in the textile plates, and the leather were partially found. In order to combine all plates together, gilt-bronze bottonhead, pendant decoration, and ornamental fringe were used. It would be helpful to study bamboo mudguards during 5th-6th centuries in Shilla period and basis investigations of Geumgwanchong and Geumryeongchong excavations.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.113-128
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• 2013

Those records indicate that Jik-geum Hyoong-bae fabric was imported from China and its period was during the fourteen and fifteen century. Gold threads used in three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae artifacts were all wrapped gold thread and gold thread of Danryeong from Young-dukdong, Yong-in, did not have a base, but instead the gold foil itself was attached to the silk cord. Such form of artifact had never been discovered before in Korea. Wrapped gold thread of Seoknamdong's basis was presumably bamboo paper. Three Jik-geum Hyoong-bae have the same weave structure. The ground is woven in a warp-faced 5-end satin weave. The pattern is brocaded with supplementary gold wefts. Supplementary gold wefts are composed of 1/4 twill binding by the odd number pairs of warps within every group of 10 pairs of warps. All of the Jik-geum Hyoong-bae textile were designed and weaved according to the overlapped collared costume's structure. This is also known as 'Jik-seong-pil-ryo'. One symmetric collared jacket excavated in Seok-namdong, Incheon, only has the right half of Hyoong-bae in the front. This is because symmetric collared jacket was made from overlapped collared costume. Tiger and peacock are the main patterns of Jik-geum Hyoong-bae which have realistic and free screen composition and this shows a huge difference to the later generation's standardized Hyoong-bae pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.102-115
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• 2011

This study is about reproduction of Yoseon-Cheobli excavated from Byun-su tomb in earlier Joseon Dynasty. There are three Yoseon-Cheobli in Byun-su tomb. The producing process is made in concrete by suggesting the process of producing clothing. Based on the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty, the most frequently recorded one, was reproduced by dying fabric with safflower and indigo plants. Through the research about their specific size, sewing method and construction, it have been produced in the following. First, the revealing that collar to be half-square and to compose the line in the center of collar. The width of the collar is 11.6 12.1cm. Second, the 21~22 pairs of waist lines that are 13~14cm in width fixed at intervals of 0.3cm. The method of making waist lines is twisting either fabrics or silk threads. Third, fine gathering around the part of the waist of skirt, and the size of fold surface is 0.2cm. Sewing method needs running stitch and backstitch. As the result of producing the cloth, it became to possess more ornamental features after transformation suitable to the new environment while the same remained functional features for everyday life such as a dressing shape, length of the bodice and curvy completion line of a collar strip.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.2
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• pp.75-91
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• 2015

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.532-548
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• 2019

This study examines Geumgwan Gaya's headgear, belt, and footwear. The relics excavated from tombs were examined first, then earthenware and clay figurines, followed by the visual data of related neighboring countries. The results are as follows. The headgear of Geumgwan Gaya, identified in the relics, is daegwan (帶輪式立飾冠) and lip (笠). Daegwan is a diadem with branch-shaped ornaments. It has an organic cap with fabric and leather as well as ties the strings to both ends of the diadem. Lip can be seen in the mounted figure of the earthenware. In neighboring countries, the top of lip is round or straight, but Geumgwan Gaya's lip is pointed and curved slightly backward. In addition, from neighboring countries' data, it is considered that the conical hat and gun (巾) are worn in Geumgwan Gaya. The belt is made of cloth or leather. Geumgwan Gaya also uses a belt with an animal-shaped hook and Jin style belt. Jin style belt shows the association with three-Yan culture of the Seonbi people in patterns and forms. Footwear of Geumgwan Gaya is li (履) and boots. Li included leather shoes, lacquer shoes, straw shoes and wooden shoes. In addition, there are leather boots decorated with round ornaments.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.5
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• pp.735-746
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• 2021

Uiwon-gun (1661-1722) and Sim Ikchang (1652-1725) were people of the upper classes of the Joseon Dynasty, who's belts woven with thread were found in their graves. The purpose of this study is to find a term suitable for the belts of these two people and to reveal the characteristics of the two belts and decipher the 8-character text marked on Shim Ikchang's belt to understand its meaning. The terms used during the Joseon Dynasty related to woven belts include "Gwangdaho", "Daeja", "Bunhapdae", "Sagagda", "Bangseungah", and "Samunjikdae". Among these terms, "Gwangdahoe" is the most suitable to indicate the belts of for both belts. The belts are made of a silk fabric of narrow width. The size of Uiwon-gun's belt is 2.8×199cm, and because it is folded in half lengthwise and sewn, the original width is 8cm. It was woven in the imitation gauze technique. Sim Ik-chang's belt measures 10.5×258cm and is decorated with a woven net at the end. There are water and mountain patterns on both ends of the belt, with 11 lines of flower patterns equally spaced between. The belt is damask, the inscription part is made of brocade with letters expressed in golden thread. The meaning of the inscription is "Made in Hanbu. May you live a long and healthy life".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.137-151
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• 2012

In 1966, $Seokgatap$ pagoda in $Bulguksa$ temple was damaged by the tomb robbers and was dismantled to fix the damage. In the process, many offerings to Buddha and containers for Sarira(the cremated remains) were found in $Sarigong$(specially designated space for the Sarira casket) inside the second floor of the pagoda. Many fabrics like $Geum$, $Neung$(twill), $Rha$(complex gauze), silk tabby and linen were also excavated. In this study, $Geum$ fabric from the $Seokgatap$ was closely examined. $Geum$ of $seokgatap$ is weft-faced compound weave according to the analysis of its weaving pattern which was wrongly presumed as warp-faced compound weave for some time. Technical analysis of $Geum$: Main: silk, Binding: silk, Proportion: 1 main warp to 1 binding warp, Count: 15 main warps and 15 binding warps per centimeter, Weft: polychrome silk without apparent twist, Colors: yellow, mustard yellow, deep blue, green and purple, Weave: weft-faced compound twill, 1/2 S. $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was made in the $8^{th}$ century, since it was weaved in weft-faced compound weave twill which was popular in the $8-9^{th}$ century. And also, the arrangement of the colors was done in the same way of gradation $Geum$ silk which was popular in the $7-8^{th}$ C in China and Japan. Third, we restored the pattern of $Geum$ of the Unified Shilla Dynasty for the first time. It was very difficult to figure out the shape and the size of pattern since the fabric was partially lost and ruined. We tried to draw the diagram of structure with the cross point of the warp and the weft to restore the pattern. By doing so, we could identify two kinds of small flower pattern, palmette and the pattern of repeating vines. Fourth, we could infer that the $Geum$ of $Seokgatap$ was used for $geumdae$(a pouch made of $geum$) by analyzing all the documents and the characteristics of the fabric.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.170-187
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• 2020

Dolmens bearing the burial layout and stone coffin tombs of the late Bronze Age were excavated from Samdeok-ri, Goseong, Gyeonsangnsamdo, and grave items such as red-burnished pottery, arrowheads, and stone swords were also discovered. In the case of the red-burnished pottery that was found, it retains a pigment layer with a thickness of about 50 to 160㎛, but with most of the other items, exfoliation and peeling-off of pigment layers can be observed on the surface. The raw materials of the red-burnished pottery contained moderately sorted minerals such as quartz, feldspar, and hornblende, and partly opaque iron oxide minerals were also identified. In particular, the raw materials of the red-burnished pottery from stone coffin tomb #6 were different from those of the other pottery, containing large amounts of hornblende and feldspar. The pottery's red pigment was identified as hematite and showed similar mineral content of raw materials such as fine grained quartz, feldspar, and hornblende. The firing temperature is estimated to have been approximately 900℃, based on their mineral phase. The possibility exists that the raw materials had been collected from the Samdeok-ri area, because diorite and granite diorite with dominant feldspar and hornblende have been identified within 3km of that area. During the pottery manufacturing process, it is estimated that the pigment was painted on the entire surface of the red-burnished pottery after it had been molded and then finished using the abrasion technique. In other words, the red-burnished pottery was made by the process of vessel forming - semi drying - coloring - polishing. The surface and cross-section of the pottery appears differently depending on the concentration of the pigment and the coloring method used after vessels were formed. Most of the excavated pottery features a distinct boundary between pigment and body fabric. However, in the case of pottery in which fine-grained pigments penetrate the body fabric so that layers cannot be distinguished, there is the possibility that the fine-grained pigment layer was applied at a low concentration or immediately after vessel forming. Many cracks can be seen on the surface pigments in thickly painted pottery items, and in many cases, only a small portion of the pigment layers remain due to surface exfoliation and abrasion in the burial environment. It is reported that pottery items may be more easily damaged by abrasion if coated with pigment and polished, so it is believed that the red-burnished pottery of the Samdeok-ri site suffered from weathering in the burial environment. This damage was more extensive in the potsherds that were scattered outside the tomb.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.4
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• pp.166-177
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• 2022

The Shiveet Khairkhan is located on Tsengel Som in the middle of Bayan-ulgi Aimag in the Altai region. Various remains have been identified, and it has been found to be an important area of the Eurasian steppe. In this study, the characteristics of textile fibers and dyes excavated from the tombs of the 1st~3rd century Xianbei period in the sites of Shiveet Khairkhan, Mongolia were investigated. As a result of analysis using optical microscopic observation and attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (ATR-FTIR) for fiber identification, green and yellow fabrics were identified as silk fabrics. To investigate the properties of the dye, the surface reflectance of the dyed fabric was measured using an fiber optic reflectance spectrophotometer for non-destructive analysis. The green fabric appeared similar to the reflection spectrum of indigo dye. In addition, as a result of component analysis using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, isatin and indigotine were detected. Isatin and indigotine are characteristic components of indigo dye, and it was found that the green fabric of the tombs of the Xianbei period was dyed using indigo dye. It was difficult to identify the type of dye in the yellow fabric as a result of reflectance spectrum and gas chromatography analysis. Indigo plants are a dye used for blue dyeing from thousands of years ago, and many species are distributed around the world. It was confirmed that the fabric was relatively well preserved and indigo dye was used for the green Jikryeongui (garment with a straight collar) in the ancient tomb of the Xianbei period about 1,800 years ago, even though it was buried for a long time. Scientific investigation of textile cultural heritage is an essential process for conservation treatment, restoration, exhibition, and the creation of a conservation environment. It is expected that related research will be activated in the future and will be helpful in interpreting the living culture at the time, preserving textiles, and a conservation environment.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.23
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• pp.49-60
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• 2020

The wrapping cloth with Cloud and Treasures Pattern donated by the head house of the descendants of Lee Hangbok (1556-1618) at the National Museum of Korea underwent conservation treatment for its protection and display. It was then compared with other ancient fabric objects for dating and analysis of the design. The subjects of Cloud and Treasures Patterns of clothing excavated from tombs dated to some point between the birth and death of Lee Hangbok and with Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies from the same period from the late 16th and 18th centuries were compared. The results of comparison with relics with clear dating are as follows: First, The Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the late 16th and 17th centuries the differences in the proportion between the head and the tail of the cloud among. Second, the Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies and fabrics excavated from tombs dated no later than the early 1700s share similarities with the Cloud and Treasures Pattern on the donated wrapping cloth in terms of the arrangement and size of designs and the proportion between each portion of the design. Though the study failed to identify the exact use of the wrapping cloth, it was estimated to be produced in early 18th century when the portraits of Lee Hangbok were copied.