Journal of the Korean Society of Costume (복식)

The Korean Society of Costume (한국복식학회)
권호 표지
DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

A Study on Jongi-sim used in the Costumes of Joseon Dynasty

조선시대 복식에 사용된 종이심에 관한 연구

  • Oh, Suk-Kyeong (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University) ;
  • Hong, Na-Young (Dept. of Clothing and Textiles, Ewha Womans University)
  • 오숙경 (이화여자대학교 의류학과) ;
  • 홍나영 (이화여자대학교 의류학과)
  • Received : 2014.11.28
  • Accepted : 2015.02.09
  • Published : 2015.02.28
Download PDF
⟨ Previous Next ⟩

Abstract

This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.

Keywords

References

  1. Park, H. S. & Lee, M. H. (2002), Western Clothing Construction [서양의복구성], Seoul: Soohaksa, p. 229.
  2. Dong-A Publishing Encyclopedia Division (1983), Dong-A color encyclopedia 19 [동아 원색 세계대백과사전 19권], Seoul: Dong-A Publishing, p. 211.
  3. Lee, E. J., Choi, Y. O., & Yun, A. J. (2004), A Study on the Traditional Construction of the Upper Garment Padded with Papers in the Late 16th Century, JKSC, 54(6), pp. 115-125.
  4. Yu, S. H. (2009), A Study on traditional Nubi(quilt) and the sewing method, Dankook University Master's Thesis
  5. Kim, J. Y. (2012), A Study on the conservation of excavated costumes from Hamyang Park's(female, middle to late 1500's), Dankook University Master's Thesis.
  6. Dankook University Institute of Oriental Studies (2002), The Great Chinese-Korean dictionary (5), Seoul: Dankook University Press, p. 1187.
  7. Sukjong-Inhyunwanghu-Garyedogamuigwe(숙종인현왕후가례도감의궤), Ilbangsojang(일방소장), Junggungjeon-uidae-cha(중궁전의대차).
  8. Son, K. J. & Kim, Y. S. (1982), The Anthology of the historical records of Korean costume : vol. III Joseon(the code of laws, chinese classical encyclopedias, the collections of works [한국복식사자료선집: 조선편 III (법전, 유서, 문집류)], Seoul: Kyomunsa, pp. 500-501.
  9. Cultural Heritage Administration Intangible Cultural Heritage Division (2006), Overview of Korean cultural heritage important folk heritage vol. 2 costumes.embroidery [문화재대관 중요민속자료2 복식.자수편], Daejeon: Cultural Heritage Administration Intangible Cultural Heritage Division, p. 127.
  10. Yu, H. K. (1975), A Study on the history of Korean costume [한국복식사연구], Seoul: Ewha Womans University Press, p. 392.
  11. Gyeonggi Province Museum (2004), Excavated costume from Su-Ryun Shim's tomb: Jeong-yi-gong lineage among the Shim family originated Cheongsong in Yongin [심수륜 묘 출토복식: 용인출토 청송 심씨 정이공파], Yongin: Gyeonggi Province Museum, p. 231.
  12. Dankook University Institute of Oriental Studies (2008), The Great Chinese-Korean dictionary (14), Seoul: Dankook University Press, pp. 951-952.
  13. Hyojangseja-Garyedogamuigwe(효장세자가례도감의궤), Ilbanguigwe(일방의궤), Sang-uiwon-seon-jinbae-jil(상의원선진배질), four Sinyeo and one Yumo(시녀사유모일).
  14. Hwang, J. Y. (2009), A Study on court ladies clothing of the Joseon Dynasty, Dankook University Master's Thesis, p. 84.
  15. Jung, G. E. (2013), Empirical investigation research on woman's Garima in Choson Dynasty, Pusan University Master's Thesis, p. 43, p. 54.
  16. Jung, G. E. (2013), Empirical investigation research on woman's Garima in Choson Dynasty, Pusan University Master's Thesis, 51-55.
  17. Son, K. Y. (2005a), Chojuji and Jeojuji of Joseon Dynasty [조선시대의 草注紙와 楮注紙], Journal of the Institute of Bibliography, 29, p. 176.
  18. Son, K. Y. (2005a), Chojuji and Jeojuji of Joseon Dynasty [조선시대의 草注紙와 楮注紙], Journal of the Institute of Bibliography, 29, pp. 177-178
  19. Son, K. Y. (2005b), An Analysis of Papers used in Historical Manuscripts, The Journal of the Korean Society of Archives and Records Management, 5(1), p. 101.
  20. Lee, S. C. (2012), Beautiful traditional Korean paper, Hanji [아름다운 우리 종이, 한지], Seoul: Hyeonamsa p. 159.
  21. Cheon, C. (2002), The Effect of Paper Making Methods and Dochim of Handmade Korean Paper(Hanji) on the Strength, MOKCHAE KONGHAK, 30(2), pp. 142-143
  22. Cheon, C., Kim, S. J., & Jin, Y. M. (1999), Properties of Indigenous Korean Paper(Hanji)-Classification of Oebal(single frame)Paper Making Methods-, MOKCHAE KONGHAK, 27(1), p. 90
  23. Cheon, C. (2002), The Effect of Paper Making Methods and Dochim of Handmade Korean Paper(Hanji) on the Strength, MOKCHAE KONGHAK, 30(2), pp. 134-143.
  24. Seonjosillok vol. 31(선조실록 권31), October 3, 1592 (the 25th year).
  25. Seungjeongwonilgi vol. 66(승정원일기 권66), August 15, 1638(the 16th year).
  26. Sohyeonseja-Garyedogamuigwe(소현세자가례도감의궤), Ilbanguigwe(일방의궤), Seja-gung-uidae(세자궁의대).
  27. Cho, H. S. & Lee, E. J. (2003), A Study on Plain Weaved Silks at the end of the Joseon Period Shown in Takjijunjeol, JKSC, 53(5), p. 131
  28. Bai, S. K. (1996), A Study on the Historical Characters and Textile Conservation of Mrs. Lee, Dan-ha's Wonsam, Journal of Conservation Science, 5(2), p. 20.
  29. Sohyeonseja-Garyedogamuigwe, Ilbanguigwe, Bingun g-uidae(빈궁의대).
  30. Sohyeonseja-Garyedogamuigwe, Ilbanguigwe, four Sanggung and one Aji(상궁사아지일)
  31. Sohyeonseja-Garyedogamuigwe, Ilbang-uigwe, four Sinyeo and one Yumo(시녀사유모일).
  32. Injo-Jangyeolwanghu-Garyedogamuigwe(인조장렬왕후가례도감의궤), Ilbanguidae-saek(일방의대색), four Sanggung(상궁사).
  33. Korea University Museum (2003), The Collected papers vol. II of mummies of mother and son from Papyeong Yun family [파평윤씨 모자 미라 종합 연구논문집II], Seoul: Korea University Museum, p. 193.
  34. Kim, S. C. (2001), Paper history[종이 역사], Seoul: Yejin, p. 162
  35. National Institute of Korean History (1994), Korean history 24 economic structure of early Joseon Dynasty [한국사 24 조선초기의 경제구조], Gwacheon: National Insitute of Korean History, pp. 310-311.
  36. Kim, Y. O. (1996), Little Ice Age in history [歷史속의 小氷期], Korean Historical Review, 149, p. 256.
  37. Kim, Y. O. (1984), An Approach to Historical Climatology-The Little Ice Age in Korea, Geography and Geography Education, 14, p. 6.
  38. Kim, Y. O. (1984), An Approach to Historical Climatology-The Little Ice Age in Korea, Geography and Geography Education, 14, p. 7.
  39. 경기도박물관, 심수륜 철릭 No. 7, 직접 촬영, 촬영일 2014. 11. 6
  40. 경기도박물관 이흠 철릭 학술 2060, 직접촬영, 촬영일 2014. 11. 6.
  41. 경기도박물관, 심수륜 철릭 No. 11, 직접 촬영, 촬영일 2014. 11. 6.
  42. Son, K. Y. (2005), A Study on papers used in historical documents of Joseon Dynasty, The Graduate School of Korean Studies Doctorate Thesis, pp. 83-85.
  43. 경기도박물관, 이흠 학술 2060, 직접 촬영, 촬영일 2014. 11. 6.
  44. 경기도박물관, 연안김씨 장저고리 No. 10, 직접 촬영, 촬영일 2014. 11. 6.
  45. Seo, Y. S. (2002), The Clothing management [피복관리학], Seoul: Hyungseul Publishing, pp. 154-155
  46. Kim, K. (2007), Storied Paper Museum [이야기가 있는 종이박물관], Paju: Gimmyoung Publishers, p. 88, 125.
  47. Buyeo National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage (2007), A Study on the excavated costumes from Jeju Ko's tomb, Buyeo: Buyeo National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage, p. 116.